818Rasmus E Modified

[xxguitarist]

18.0.E.3. Driveshaft Hoop: RWD DM and EM vehicles shall have a drive-
shaft hoop capable of preventing the shaft from entering the driver’s compartment or damaging any
fluid or electrical lines in the event of joint or shaft breakage. All cars in competition us- ing
open driveshafts must have a retainer loop with 360° of en- closure, ¼ inch (0.250”; 6.35 mm)
minimum thickness and 2.0” (50.8 mm) wide, or ⅞ inch (0.875”) x 0.065” (22.23 mm x 1.65 mm) welded
steel tubing, securely mounted and located so as to support and contain the driveshaft in event of
U-joint failure. Vehicles that have a closed “tunnel” or other such structure which the driveshaft
passes through such as the vehicle’s frame, may be considered for an exemption from the SEB if that
structure meets the criteria stated above.
Note: DM and EM vehicles are exempt from the scattershield,
driveshaft hoop, and Master Switch requirements if they are using
DOT-approved tires.

Bold for emphasis.

Could well be that the bellhousing counts as a scattershield. Either way, DOTs reads to me as not needing the switch.

[Rasmus]

Agreed. I'd interpret it that way also. Thanks for the clarification.

[Scargo]

Certainly not in drag racing. Aluminum bellhousings have never been considered a scattershield.

About Matchbot: I think it can be a great too if used wisely and realistically. I sure hope my BW EFR 8374 doesn't put out a Brazillion horsepower at 32 PSI. If it does, my pricey built motor will last about two seconds.

[MrDude_1]

Certainly not in drag racing. Aluminum bellhousings have never been considered a scattershield.

About Matchbot: I think it can be a great too if used wisely and realistically. I sure hope my BW EFR 8374 doesn't put out a Brazillion horsepower at 32 PSI. If it does, my pricey built motor will last about two seconds.

I was just about to say the same thing. If you need a scattershield in NHRA, you need to either swap bellhousings to a SFI approved one, or add on one of the SFI approved strap-style ones that go over and around the trans.

That said, the rules were obviously intended for a front-engined car with the clutch near the drivers ankles... so there may be a work around with that.

edit: note that if an aluminum bellhousing counted as a scattershield, almost no car would ever need one.

[xxguitarist]

Auto-x is a little different. This is SCCA Solo's definition of scattershield

The following shall be required in all Modified Category vehicles:
1. Scattershields/Chain Guard:The installation of scattershields or
explosion-proof bell housings shall be required on all cars where
the failure of the clutch, flywheel, or torque converter could create
a hazard to the driver or passengers. Chain drive cars shall be
fitted with a protective case/shield to retain the chain in case of
failure.
The following material requirements apply to scattershields/explosion-
proof bell housings:
⅛ inch (0.125”; 3.18mm) SAE 4130 alloy steel
¼ inch (0.250”; 6.35mm) mild steel plate
¼ inch (0.250”; 6.35mm) aluminum alloy
SFI or NHRA approved flexible shields

[Rasmus]

Started on the wiring harness. Just stripping off the outer sheathing. Intimidating looking at all those wires. I suppose once I remove the ABS, Airbag/SRS, Window, and Lock wires it'll be easier to get my head around.


Unfortunately, most of the day I dedicated to the German car. I swear, if FFR based their kits around German cars they'd go out of business in 18 months. So. Hard. To. Work on.

[longislandwrx]

I once volunteered to help my fried do an oil change and front brakes on his Passat. never again.

plastic dipstick and tube crumbled in my hand, brake pad sensor self destructed. I went to 3 VW dealers, the third finally had the parts/ was open on saturday,

"oh that happens all the time, make sure no big pieces of it got down into the motor, you should probably drop the pan"

me: what? "yeah we don't touch them, we just add the right amount of oil"

in conclusion


sorry for your pain

[Scargo]

I love our Bimmer. A 2010 535XI with M package. Turbocharged... It scares the hell out of me when I open the hood. A sea of plastic! I changed a running light in the front and it was all I could do to get my hand in there. I thought I would have to start disassembling the front end to change the bulb.
I now know my '08 STi pretty much inside and out. I don't want to know about the Bimmer...

[RM1SepEx]

I love working on my Bimmer, so easy... it is a 91 E30 convertible tho!

[Rasmus]

Removed most all of the sheathing on the chassis' main harness. Didn't get to the engine (in black bin) or intake manifold harnesses (not pictured). I stuffed what I think is the airbag/SRS chassis side harness in the small box on the left there.

[Hindsight]

Nice. I JUST finished pulling all my wiring out and am sitting down for lunch before I head back out and get the last remaining thing from the donor: the fuel tank. Then it's chop chop and off to the scrapper.

I'll be watching your wiring progress closely. Do you have any de-pin type tools? If so, where is a good place to get them?

[RM1SepEx]

don't bother, no one has found a good working pin tool, cut and splice as needed

[metalmaker12]

Re pining looks nice though

[BryceJ]

Are the pin removal tools referenced in this PDF useful for these wiring harnesses?

[xxguitarist]

We were doing the same thing today. Separated the ABS/SRS from the harness & engine harness, then deleted all door stuff, shorting the door switches, and deleted all the radio/clock/ac bits, too.

[fzust]

You can run whatever tires you want in Prepared and Mod, provided they don't explode or are unsafe. You could make your own if you want to.

[Rasmus]

Arrived home today and the garage door wouldn't open. Unfortunately the S.O. arrived before I did. She said, "I tried it like 10 times outside and it wouldn't go up, so I went inside and tried it a dozen more. Nothings blocking it so I don't know what's wrong." Looks like the poor garage door opener just about ripped it's mount out of the door frame trying to lift the door on a broken spring. So there were go.

I get to replace both torsion springs and also repair the mounting location for the garage door opening arm.

[AZPete]

Ugh. If you replace the spring yourself, be careful!!

[wleehendrick]

facepalm.png

[Hindsight]

Ugh! The spring looks so new too. I recently had to replace my entire door and spring as well. One of the few jobs I chose to call in a pro for. They are cheap. Good luck.

[Scargo]

Shorten the other side an equal amount and make it into a "high-performance" door opener. Sorry...

[Mechie3]

I used a small precision screwdriver to depin. Works for everything except the ecu connectors.

[Jaime]

The energy tied up in a wound garage door spring is quite substantial. I always get the type in the enclosed tube that you preload with a drill after it's installed.

TorqueMaster.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

When I was a kid. I was working on a car in the garage (under the living room) when one of the cable, spring, pulley types let loose.
It was so loud that my parent (in living room) thought the car fell on me.
Bob

[rtz]

RE: Garage door springs.

Lots of good info, video's, and parts: http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...on-springs.php

[RM1SepEx]

When I was a kid. I was working on a car in the garage (under the living room) when one of the cable, spring, pulley types let loose.
It was so loud that my parent (in living room) thought the car fell on me.
Bob

\
One of mine let go a couple months ago... new steel insulated doors are on order, current doors almost 29 years old

That noise when it pops was very frightening!

[Rasmus]

Ordered two new springs for the garage door from Amazon. One left wound, one right wound. Was about to order a set of winding bars, but at ~$20 for one, need two, I figured I could make my own and save $40. So custom welded up two garage spring winding bars. 18" long with 1/2" rebar. I've tried unwinding garage springs before with just 1/2" rebar and it gets super sketchy with the rebar bending. So I beefed 'em up with some rusty old angle iron my kid found in the desert. So, garage springs all unwound. Body safe. I'm sure glad I haven't had shoulder surgery in the past year because that might have really tested the rehab.


And this surprised me. 4.533 kg for full steering column. I'm gonna need to find a way to reduce this considerably, because that is a bunch of mass.

[Harley818]

you could use all that weight you have been saving as a counterweight....... just saying....

[MrDude_1]

You know I see you on here almost everyday... but its been 5 days and no update? Unacceptable.

lol, seriously though, i just popped in because I had an idea about your column weight. How much of that weight is for the column key lock? not the switch itself, but the lock to keep the wheel from turning, and brackets to brace that lock? between that and replacing the tilt mechanism with a simple bracket, you can probably cut most of that mass off. You shouldn't need tilt once its at your preferred height, plus the wheel comes off to get in and out, right?

[Rasmus]

You know I see you on here almost everyday... but its been 5 days and no update? Unacceptable.

I'm totally slackin' here.

Nah. Just bad planning.

I've got currently five projects up in the air.

• Garage door repair (springs arrive today)
• Transmission speedo gear & lsd install (speedo gear on order at local Subaru Dealer)
• Short block build ( rotating assembly at machine shop )
• Steering column install (parts arriving today)
• Subie Invasion 2014 Group Drive Rally-master (on going)

I find if I get too many things going I get over whelmed and don't want to do anything. 5 is pushing it for me. But it's, honestly, just bad planning. I tend to go in waves of 1. plan 2. order parts/service 3. fabricate-install. Problem is when I get to fabricate-install I tend to do everything on my plate until I've got nothing to do and haven't planned anything or ordered anything. I came to complete halt with everything in the order phase.

[Hindsight]

Better to have that than the far more common problem of ordering a bunch of stuff that you then never install.

[longislandwrx]

Subie Invasion 2014 Group Drive Rally-master

best link posted to date.

[Pearldrummer7]

Any significant weight savings from the new garage door springs over the old ones?

[Rasmus]

The steering column. From 4,533 kg to 1,955 kg. Some of that I'll need to add back in for the indicators, ignition, start, and accessory switches. Also the key and it's RFID reader. So for final install I probably shaved 2.5 - 2.4 kg. Which is heeps.






That's a M22x1.5 rod end holding up the steering column now. Notice how I hollowed out the threaded portion to save weight. I think I might have a condition.

[Rasmus]

Cut down and reused the factory lower bearing to pass the column through the fire wall


I'll need to replace that zip tie with a metal hose screw clamp. Wouldn't want that to slip out.


Garage door update! I ordered the wrong springs!

[xatudor]

I can see at least 10 threads not being used on that rod end. I'm surprised you haven't cut them off to save a bit more weight.

[Santiago]

Very cool OEM column mods! If I wasn't thinking that others may need to quickly adjust controls (think "enduro") I'd probably go this route.

[Boog]

How well does the column fit within the rod end? Did you add some sort of bushing?

I wouldn't be surprised if in a couple weeks you decide to make yourself a new frame out of thinner chrome-moly and build a diet 717 instead.

[Rasmus]

How well does the column fit within the rod end? Did you add some sort of bushing?

It needed a shim. Two 0.008" shims or my method of one 0.016" shim locked in place between the two shaft collars.

[Boog]

Very cool.