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Thread: Plavan's 818R Build Thread

  1. #561
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    Hey guys, I'm not contesting the fact that the wrx motor might need an dry sump or that you guys bought it, I'm just blown away that some *******s think it's ok to charge that much money for something that cost 20% of that to fabricate, and thinks it's ok just because it is for a "racing" application.
    I know that racing is not cheap, I've done that too, I just have questions about the subaru stuff think it's seems to blow for no reason except driving a little hard.

    - Is the WRX/STI motor that ****ty that it just breaks down for driving it hard? I'm not familiar with subaru I used to race a old bimmer super hard and actually put an accusump in it as we were using part of the oval track as a section of track, and the oil pickup was on the wrong side at an angle, but It doesn't seem that that many car in the basic SCCA circuit had or needed a dry sump. Is that a big issue with subaru then? what is the exact issue?
    - As a reference that I have right now in racing conditions, what are the blue or red car using?
    - are they any actual data or consensus that show what people are mostly using in racing on suby motors? and when I say racing, I mean road racing, a straight line or left turn only is not racing, and autocrosses don't really show long term stuff.
    - I guess you guys bought the kit without the hoses? did you price out what the hoses will run? It seems that $1000 for the hoses and fitting is a bit much (I know that AN fitting and hoses are expensive, I used a ton of them before)

  2. #562
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    I am not racing it until I get the dry sump, just easy driving
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  3. #563
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    I would ask turn in concepts what they use on their STI track car. They've set several records. Though it's not a tube frame purebred racecar so the lateral g are likely lower. Subaru had a road racing team too and several others have campaigned subies. I'd look to see what they all did.

    The dry sump looks to be a cast piece. That combined with a likely low sales volume means high cost. Couple that with the guys who need this thing usually have the money or manage to co.e up with it doesn't provide much incentive to lower costs.
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  4. #564
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    They charge $700 for the hoses on the 818 instead of their regular $1,000... not that it affects the bottom line all that much.

  5. #565
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    thanks guys. Sorry Chad, didn't mean to highjack your thread, I'll start a specific one in the R section

  6. #566
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    The Phoenix Grand Am GS STi team ran the OE Sti pan.

  7. #567
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    1. There is a/will be an issue running these motors on race tracks with sticky tires.
    2. The 818R will exaggerate these oiling issues
    3. The dry sump both Brandon and I bought is from a shop that races, and has experienced multiple engine losses due to road racing
    4. I'm not going to risk my race motor build when I know what can happen.
    5. My vintage Porsche has a dry sump in it, and it is a flat six. I have never had any issues.
    6. Later flat sixes from Porsche with a wet sump would blow up on the track with sticky tires after awhile. The same issues of the oil going into the heads because its a flat motor. I have seen it happen.
    7. The tracks I will be racing on have high speed sweepers or long NASCAR banking. This will also exaggerate the oil getting stuck in the head away from the pickup for extended periods.
    8. I chose to get a dry sump, I didn't want one, but it was inevitable based on the knowledge/research.
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-25-2014 at 09:14 AM.
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  8. #568
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    Thanks Chad.

  9. #569
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    RE #6 above, a friend of mine bought a Cayman with a blown motor recently. It was used as a race car and spun a main bearing on the track. Stock oiling setup. So it supports what you mention above.

    Why wouldn't an Accusump suffice for the 818? Seems like a more economic and simple option.

  10. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    RE #6 above, a friend of mine bought a Cayman with a blown motor recently. It was used as a race car and spun a main bearing on the track. Stock oiling setup. So it supports what you mention above.

    Why wouldn't an Accusump suffice for the 818? Seems like a more economic and simple option.
    I saw that happen on pre- 2005-2009 Caymans/Boxsters/911's. Some not immediatly, but after a bit, the bearings will eventually go due to the lack of oil. This has nothing to do with the Intermediate Bearing failures on Porsches of that period.

    As for the Accumsump, my only issue is the total time it would help boost the oil pressure. For the tracks I race on, the sweepers/banking are long. Way too long for an Accusump to provide the additional oil.
    Thanks- Chad
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  11. #571
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    Canards are on. I honestly do not think you need the additional support strut on the canards. I even have the struts here. I'll find out the first test day . With 4 bolts on each side it is plenty strong. I'll throw a GoPro on and watch to see if there is flex.

    I need to notch the front race splitter and move it forward. I just have a jack supporting it.




    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-25-2014 at 03:44 PM.
    Thanks- Chad
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  12. #572
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    Boy that car is looking great! I bet you can't wait to take it out for a test run. Congrats so far on a very nice build.

  13. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Canards are on. I honestly do not think you need the additional support strut on the canards. I even have the struts here. I'll find out the first test day . With 4 bolts on each side it is plenty strong. I'll throw a GoPro on and watch to see if there is flex.

    I need to notch the front race splitter and move it forward. I just have a jack supporting it.




    Looking good!

    Hey you running an awic, the air to air gets insufficient air flow( even in R setup) and will heat soak. I ask because the subaru wrx Usdm ecu in a maf setup can only run the iat in the maf which is pre turbo and will not accurately control detonation and toast your motor just like mine did. I would get an awic kit along with your sick dry sump.
    Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-25-2014 at 05:12 PM.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  14. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    Looking good!

    Hey you running an awic, the air to air gets insufficient air flow( even in R setup) and will heat soak. I ask because the subaru wrx Usdm ecu in a maf setup can only run the iat in the maf which is pre turbo and will not accurately control detonation and toast your motor just like mine did. I would get an awic kit along with your sick dry sump.
    I have a Mishimoto Intercooler. I didn't want to go AWIC, I have some fans that I will mount on the intercooler to push air through. The lack of a real windshield should help along with the fans wired in. At least I hope.
    Thanks- Chad
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  15. #575
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    Race splitter installed. I still need to install the struts on the splitter (maybe tonight).

    Key piece for splitter/diffuser install: 3/16" large head rivets, and 3/16" fender washers to back the rivets up. This will make a very strong bond.


    I pushed the splitter forward like on the red car.


    Thanks- Chad
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  16. #576
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    Are you leaving your splitter permanently installed? I still need to make mine *somewhat* easily removable for loading/unloading onto a trailer...
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  17. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    Are you leaving your splitter permanently installed? I still need to make mine *somewhat* easily removable for loading/unloading onto a trailer...
    Race ramps will be my best friend
    Thanks- Chad
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  18. #578
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    Looking good
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  19. #579
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    You still use the factory oil cooler. Plus, those headers are way too expensive for what you get. I was not impressed at all.
    joking about the header. but really no actual oil cooler?
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  20. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Race splitter installed. I still need to install the struts on the splitter (maybe tonight).
    Key piece for splitter/diffuser install: 3/16" large head rivets, and 3/16" fender washers to back the rivets up. This will make a very strong bond.
    I pushed the splitter forward like on the red car.
    Has anyone toyed with the idea of making the whole nose removable for transport? Could it be done? I ask because I have a buddy that AutoX's a Civic, and he simply removes the nose splitter and all.
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  21. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    joking about the header. but really no actual oil cooler?
    Ok. I'm slow.

    I can always add a cooler later (I would prefer one). The Element guys are just running the stock one. Keep in mind we are adding a 4+quart external oil tank too, that is more oil to heat up.

    I have my oil temp gauge all set up. I will know more after the first test day.


    Quote Originally Posted by bstuke View Post
    Has anyone toyed with the idea of making the whole nose removable for transport? Could it be done? I ask because I have a buddy that AutoX's a Civic, and he simply removes the nose splitter and all.
    I'm glad you are back!

    I'm sure anything is possible. For me, I would be happy to spend the ~$300 or so on the raceramps for my trailer ( http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-ram...xtensions.aspx ) (amazon.com has 10% off right now). The are super light, come in different lengths/height/approach angles and get the job done. Since I have a winch on my trailer, it is super easy to load the car in the trailer without boinking the nose up. I just need to measure the approach angle I need with the pushed forward race splitter.

    Fyi- I bought these to get my race jack under the 818R- They are awesome. Make sure to get the one without the 1.5" stop on the end, it may hit splitter before car is up on them. I have not tried them with the front splitter on yet. If the splitter hits them, I will just throw them under the rear wheels. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-26-2014 at 05:57 PM.
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  22. #582
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    I have used dry sump systems in the past, cold oil is more of a problem than hot. The volume of oil will keep it cool enough but the tolerances in the dry sump pump do not like high load on cold oil.

  23. #583
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    I have used dry sump systems in the past, cold oil is more of a problem than hot. The volume of oil will keep it cool enough but the tolerances in the dry sump pump do not like high load on cold oil.
    The key is proper warm up like the Porsches. I have ~12/13 quarts in my 911 without a thermostat. I let her run for about 10min before a session to get the oil ready to go.
    Thanks- Chad
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  24. #584
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    Teaser pics:

    3d printed a mount for my Traqmate. Came out perfect. It attaches to the steering column screw mounts.


    Door Vents are on:

    I chose to use silicon and a few black rivets for a cleaner look.



    Front splitter started getting some hardware also:

    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-26-2014 at 04:18 PM.
    Thanks- Chad
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  25. #585
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    What splitter hardware Chad?
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  26. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstuke View Post
    What splitter hardware Chad?
    I bought it from APR's website. They have all sorts of stuff.
    Thanks- Chad
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  27. #587
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    Your whip is looking sweet. The door vents look better than I anticipated. Black rivets was a good call.
    I look forward to your next full car picture with the front aero on.

    When are you going to start with your wing mount? I am curious to see what you come up with.

  28. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brando View Post
    Your whip is looking sweet. The door vents look better than I anticipated. Black rivets was a good call.
    I look forward to your next full car picture with the front aero on.

    When are you going to start with your wing mount? I am curious to see what you come up with.
    Thanks Brandon. It's coming together. I still don't know if it will be ready for a test day in 3 weeks. If its not right, I wont go. If I didn't have to do the dry sump stuff, I think I could make it. BTW- how many ports does your tank have? Does it have 1 vent on top, 2 middle, 1 bottom?

    I bought 26ft of 1x1 square bar for the wing mount. I have some idea's, but I wont know until I start cutting and tack welding stuff. I want it removable like yours.
    Thanks- Chad
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  29. #589
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    I don't have it front of me but I had to get the dual scavenge because I couldn't find any units on the market for single scavenge.
    I was told I can just plug one up.

    F14587903.jpg

  30. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brando View Post
    I don't have it front of me but I had to get the dual scavenge because I couldn't find any units on the market for single scavenge.
    I was told I can just plug one up.

    F14587903.jpg
    Yeah- that is my tank, but the issue is their tanks have two vents, we only have one...... I have an email in to Phil.
    Thanks- Chad
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  31. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Front splitter started getting some hardware also:

    How necessary are these? The splitter is prone to failure under pressure at xMPH?
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  32. #592
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    I think it's to provide rigidity not avoid failure. Wayne said he put a gopro on his and watched the splitter bend down over an inch. Mine is rather flimsy in the middle section.

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    But that's what happens on F1 cars, their front spoiler bends. And before the regulation changed years ago, it was bending a lot more.
    Frank
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  34. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    But that's what happens on F1 cars, their front spoiler bends. And before the regulation changed years ago, it was bending a lot more.
    That's because they were designed to bend and at specific angles at specific speeds. The lower inlets of the F458 grill is like this too. It's a way to meet static design rules during tech (ie: spoiler max height, distance from road surface) but achieve different performance while racing (ie: higher effective height, closer to ground). If the splitter wasn't designed that way to begin with then you can't blanket statement say a bending spoiler/splitter is beneficial.

    Splitters also work by extending out into a high pressure zone created by the front of the car. Wings work by differential airflow over the top and bottom surfaces.
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  35. #595
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    I would put braces from the radiator frame down to the center of the splitter at the front and rear in the center opening. It will impart the downforce directly to the frame and support the structure of the splitter.
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  36. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    If the splitter wasn't designed that way to begin with then you can't blanket statement say a bending spoiler/splitter is beneficial.
    I understand and agree, but I don't know if FFR designed it that way. Is it? I guess not.
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  37. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    I would put braces from the radiator frame down to the center of the splitter at the front and rear in the center opening. It will impart the downforce directly to the frame and support the structure of the splitter.
    Good idea. I did not like how everything is forced on just the bumper.


    Splitter hardware on. I'll be making some brackets and mount them to the crash box on the inside sides, and inside nose. It will connect it to the frame like Wayne said.

    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-27-2014 at 03:09 PM.
    Thanks- Chad
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    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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  38. #598
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    Where did you get the splitter hardware?

  39. #599
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    Where did you get the splitter hardware?
    http://aprperformance.com/index.php?...d=83&Itemid=44
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    Some pics of it on the ground with the new front stuff.







    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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