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Thread: Six Star Cars - Wheel Fitment Thread

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb Six Star Cars - Wheel Fitment Thread

    Sorry for the lame title. This will be a dumping ground for every and any wheel I can get my hands on and test fit in the rear of the 818S. I won't be covering the front because even the stock 16x6.5 with OEM 205/55-16 tires hits the frame at lock, so putting larger wheels on there will just exacerbate the issue. Also LCAs, offset caster bushings and ALKs will affect this issue on cars drastically, so for now it's, to be continued...

    By now you know that not much fits in the rear past stock without spacers. Even the 17x9s that fit great on my WRX won't fit the 818S without some serious spacers. Some of the pictures are a little blurry, camera doesn't like macro combine with some depth of field, sorry. I should mention that we're using ARP studs in the rear with sandwiched spacers. If you've ever seen what can happen to those bolt on spacers when they fail at speed you'll never ever use them. I know there are a million stories of people using them with zero issues but it only takes one wheel snapping off at 100 and the driver hitting the wall to make me never ever use them on anything I drive or build ever again. But I digress.

    Stock WRX Wheels - 16x6.5 - 205/55-16 - No spacers

    Upper link - 8mm gap
    stocktop.JPG

    Lower link (trailing arm) - 18mm gap
    stockbottom.JPG

    17x9 45ET Enkei RPF1 - 245/40-17 Hoosier A7 (note that this tire measures out at 265)

    Upper link - 7.7mm spacer - zero gap
    17smallspacertop.JPG

    Lower link - 7.7mm spacer - ~5mm gap
    17smallspacerbottom.JPG

    19mm spacer - 10mm and 20mm gaps
    17bigspacer.JPG

    18x10.5 (Large?!)ET CCW C14 - 295/30-18 Hoosier R6

    19mm spacer - 12mm and 20mm gaps
    18top.JPG

    I'll keep adding to this post as I bolt more and more wheels on. One thing to note is that the upper link will ALWAYS hit before the lower link aka. Trailing Arm so this is where you want to focus your money/sizing/measuring/attention. Moving the lower link in will not change the fact that the upper link hits. Also, you'll notice that the upper vs. lower gap starts to taper off, this is a function of the curved lower link and a larger wheel size.

    Hope this helps! Thanks for reading!
    Last edited by SixStar; 07-08-2014 at 06:42 PM.
    Owner/builder - AEM Intakes 818R #85

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SixStar View Post
    even the stock 16x6.5 with OEM 205/55-16 tires hits the frame at lock
    That is a serious issue I wasn't aware yet, I can't register the car if anything hits anywhere. I will run 215/40/17 ET38 on 17x8 up front.


    Quote Originally Posted by SixStar View Post
    we're using ARP studs in the rear with sandwiched spacers. If you've ever seen what can happen to those bolt on spacers when they fail at speed you'll never ever use them.
    Any pix of the good and bad spacers?

    Quote Originally Posted by SixStar View Post
    18x10.5 (Large?!)ET CCW C14 - 295/30-18 Hoosier R6

    19mm spacer - 12mm and 20mm gaps
    18top.JPG
    Interesting to see the large wheel and huge 295s fit nicely!
    Now how about the body panels...
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  3. #3
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    Thanks for this post,

    I've bought, but not fitted, 17x9 ET45mm offset rears with 255/40-17 BFG G-Force Rivals
    Section width on the Rivals is 10.2" (259mm) vs the pictured Hoosiers at 10.3" (262mm), so I'm going to have similar rear fitment issues with the 5mm spacers I've bought.

    Do you think the upper arm can be moved inwards by changing the link bushing, or is a thicker spacer a must?
    Cheers
    Tim

  4. #4
    fasterer and furiouser
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    Yeah you can get another 5mm by cutting new spacers. or 10mm by moving both spacers to the outside. errrrr inside?

    brando and metalmaker did this

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-trailing-arm


    If you need more... my thought was could you use a full length spacer and mount the upper link to the outside of the brackets. I don't have my alignment close yet so I'm not sure if there's enough clearance to the coil over.
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 07-09-2014 at 09:33 AM.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  5. #5
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    If you increase rear, stock 16 inch wheel, tire size to even 225, you get interference with the top trailing link. To make them fit you need to put both spacers on one side or add spacers to the wheel. I had to add 1 1/2 spacers to use the stock wheels with 225's on the rear and fill the tire well.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  6. #6
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    Altering the suspension link seems easier than dealing with wheel spacers. How much (if at all) will it effect suspension characteristics when the hub side of the top trailing link gets shifted inward from stock to between 0.5" and 2.0"?

  7. #7
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    If you try to use stock wheels the must be spaced or they look stupid, the tires are so far in the wheel wells. I'm not sure how much to space the front yet, it will be between 3/4 and 1 inch
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

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