Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[C.Plavan]

Went through your whole thread! Great build.
What rear suspension parts and trailing arms are you using?

Thanks. The rear are special spherical bearing OEM peices. "Subaru Performance Tuning". You can buy them from a dealer or online. Really nice stuff, just not my normal color

[C.Plavan]

I have been playing with Rori's parts. They are very nice. (Bracket and shift arm)

[C.Plavan]

My Wife got these for my Bday. The garage is starting to look like the shop I wanted. Working on the race cars is going to be even more fun! Great deal on Homedepot.com right now.

[Doowop]

great deals on those cabinets!! they look awesome and are cheap!!

[C.Plavan]

great deals on those cabinets!! they look awesome and are cheap!!

Saved over $600. They are welded metal too. I'm impressed. I might buy a few more pieces.

[C.Plavan]

I cut the aluminum and drilled holes for the shifter in the center tunnel. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep the center tunnel aluminum or painting it with matt black Plasti-Dip. Hmmmm

I love the feel of this shifter. Thanks Wayne and Rori!

[Bill Waters]

Woot! The CNC aluminum 818R LCA spacers I made up are here. They turned out perfect- I'll install them tomorrow and get rid of the temporary stacked washers....

Chad - why did you end up with spacers of different thicknesses? It seems to me that the rear LCA mounting "wings" would need to elevate by the same amount.

I figured that the amount they would need to space up is 0.33". If you have time or inclination, have a look at my post in the "R" sub forum.

Thanks,

Bill

[Brando]

I used a single 3/8th on one side and stacked (2) 3/8th on the other. I used aluminum squares on mine. Your not factoring one side is already on top of body mount while other is underneith so sizes will end up different. Chad what are the 2 heights you went with?

[C.Plavan]

Hey Guys,

Post #99 on page 3. From Jim at FFR in an email.

There is alot of good info in Post #99.

Brando is right-
Remember on the S, one ear goes BELOW the mount. On the R, it goes above the mount, so you have to remember to factor in the thickness of the actual mount also. That is why the two different sizes.
But I admit, we got a few different numbers because the original R is not necessarily the same as ours. Jim did the math and rechecked everything before sending me those numbers.

If you use the same size spacer on both sides, it will not be correct.
S:


R:


Dont forget about bumpsteer either- I'll post those spacer requirements.

[C.Plavan]

Also if you use the Baer Bumpsteer (a must with the R ride height to eliminate nastly bumpsteer) they recommend the below spacers at R height (Drill out taper and use bolt with 2- 7/16th spacer- post #99 also)

"Chad,

Spacers were 2-7/16 in the front. That give just a little roll toe-out which is what I like to see in the front. (you can also dial in a little bit of roll toe-in to the rear by adjusting the length of the upper trailing arm)


Jim"

[Bill Waters]

Thanks, Chad.

[Brando]

Also if you use the Baer Bumpsteer (a must with the R ride height to eliminate nastly bumpsteer) they recommend the below spacers at R height (Drill out taper and use bolt with 2- 7/16th spacer-

Looking at the Baer Bumpsteer Kit I don't understand what "drill out taper" pertains to.

Did you do this on yours already? Can you snap a picture?

[longislandwrx]

The Baer kit has a tapered bolt that replaces the tie rod end in the knuckle. I think they are saying drill out the knuckle straight and replace the Baer piece with a longer bolt. Looking at mine, you can see theres no way to fit 2 7/16s worth of spacers on there.

WP_20140423_004.jpg

this is not set up. just bolted it on.

[D Clary]

I have installed a few bump steer kits and usually you need to drill out the spindle . Do you have access to a bump steer tool or are you just going by their spec.

[C.Plavan]

Sorry Brando. I'm on a business trip and just saw this. I think the other guys answered it.
I have not done it yet, but yes I will just drill out the taper and use a longer bolt (same size diameter of bump steer). Then I will cut tubing to use as a spacer to their specs.

[FFRSpec72]

The Baer kit has a tapered bolt that replaces the tie rod end in the knuckle. I think they are saying drill out the knuckle straight and replace the Baer piece with a longer bolt. Looking at mine, you can see theres no way to fit 2 7/16s worth of spacers on there.

WP_20140423_004.jpg

this is not set up. just bolted it on.

Correct the tie rod ends are tapered and most bump steer kits use straight bolts and thus the spindle ends needs to be drilled where the tie rod end goes to fit the bump steer ends

[C.Plavan]

Alright- Got around to working on the car again. All the brake lines are complete.

I ran the rear brake lines down the center of the car (My Fuel Safe Cell will be in passenger area). I notched the lower aluminum firewall, then split them at the rear. Like others, I try to "hide" the brake lines from the header/engine heat. I may throw some angled aluminum on the sections that can't "hide".
The other benefit of running them down the center is keeping them away from the coolant lines. I did run the clutch line down the side since that is not a big deal. I just need to add a few clamps in some areas.









Then I mocked up the aluminum coolant tubes......I love them! I just need to mess with the Driver side front pieces to get them to sit how I like them.

[C.Plavan]

[C.Plavan]

Side note- My buddies and I built and race a BMW E30 in Chumpcar out West. We raced a FULL 24 hour race last weekend. Best part....WE WON! It was so much fun to finally win it. We raced the full 24hrs (1560 miles). We broke a couple of times, but rushed to fix it. We all got about 2 hours of sleep (6 of us driving and crewing). I suggest everyone do a Chumpcar race at some point in your life.

[68GT500MAN]

Long endurance races are a lot of fun. I have ben on the crew of three 25 hour events up at Thunder Hill Raceway and know the excitement of finishing the race.
Doug

[longislandwrx]

Those tubes are nice! Is that how they came or did you polish them up? Who did you end up getting them from? I think Everson was cheaper by a few bucks.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks!

I bought them through Breeze Automotive. They came all polished up. Took maybe 10 min to mock them up. They wrote on the pipes where they go which is a nice touch. I figured I would share the love since I bought a ton of stuff from Mike already .

[metalmaker12]

Cool stuff man!!!

[wallace18]

Great build and great result from the race. Congrats!

[C.Plavan]

Thanks guys. I'm starting to see the end of the tunnel!

Coolant tank relocation bracket install and drilled/tapped the Degas valve. I hope it doesn't leak . I just need to go get some new hose for the degas line, then figure out where I want to mount the rear expansion tank.




I'm getting ready to order the Fuel Safe cell. I'm leaning towards the 17 gallon cell (Outside can dimensions 20.125" x 17.125" x 12.75") It will fit in the passenger area nicely. I will never run it full, but if I start racing enduros, the 17 gallons will help.

[Mechie3]

Nice bracket. Lol.

Those cooling tu es really do look nice. I may have to break down and buy a set.

[wallace18]

Thanks guys. I'm starting to see the end of the tunnel!

Coolant tank relocation bracket install and drilled/tapped the Degas valve. I hope it doesn't leak . I just need to go get some new hose for the degas line, then figure out where I want to mount the rear expansion tank.




I'm getting read to order the Fuel Safe cell. I'm leaning towards the 17 gallon cell (Outside can dimensions 20.125" x 17.125" x 12.75") It will fit in the passenger area nicely. I will never run it full, but if I start racing enduros, the 17 gallons will help.

I would go with 17Gal. I lost a big race years ago for the want of 1 more gal. of fuel. LOL.

[C.Plavan]

I would go with 17Gal. I lost a big race years ago for the want of 1 more gal. of fuel. LOL.

Ohhh I know this all too well...... 2007 enduro race with Patrick Long (Porsche Factory Driver) as my co-driver...He ran out of gas with about 1.5 laps to go in the overall lead..... The video cuts out before hand due to battery.

[C.Plavan]

Nice bracket. Lol.

Those cooling tubes really do look nice. I may have to break down and buy a set.

Yeah- Some guy likes making parts that I HAVE to buy...... Actually, There are a FEW guys that keep making parts I HAVE to buy.... haha

[Triathletedave]

Alright- Got around to working on the car again. All the brake lines are complete.

I ran the rear brake lines down the center of the car (My Fuel Safe Cell will be in passenger area). I notched the lower aluminum firewall, then split them at the rear. Like others, I try to "hide" the brake lines from the header/engine heat. I may throw some angled aluminum on the sections that can't "hide".
The other benefit of running them down the center is keeping them away from the coolant lines. I did run the clutch line down the side since that is not a big deal. I just need to add a few clamps in some areas.









Then I mocked up the aluminum coolant tubes......I love them! I just need to mess with the Driver side front pieces to get them to sit how I like them.

I have the same coolant tubes from Breeze. It certainly was a breeze installing them. I also purchased a box of 10 additional 2 inch insulated tubing clamps from au-ve-co products to mount them up nice and secure. Be very careful around the steering knuckle, as there is not a lot of clearance. The extra clamps were needed around the steering linkage.

[C.Plavan]

Yes- I noticed how close it can be to the knuckle. I took time manipulating it to get it where I liked. I have two more clamps, but I'm going to wait till I fill it up and get it running. I'll add another clamp up there just to be safe.

[C.Plavan]

BAER 818R Spacer Install

This is what I did. Seemed to work well so feel free to use this as a guide.

Things you will need:
5/8" drill bit
A step drill bit that has a 5/8" step in it
2- Grade 8, 5/8" hex bolt (5" works the best for me)
2- Grade 8 Lock nuts (and washers if you want to be extra safe)
1- 1/2 pipe long enough to cut to make (2) 2 7/16th spacers. I grabbed a single 1/2 x 7" galvanized pipe from the plumbing section. Take your 5" bolts and test fit them inside. Mine fit perfectly.
Sawzall
Flat metal file
Black Paint

Step 1-

Cut pipe (I used a Sawzall). I cut the threaded ends off one side, then measured 2-7/16" and marked it. Cut it trying to keep it straight. I cleaned it up with a metal file. Repeat for 2nd spacer.

Step 2-

Measure everything again, and file flat if there are any high points. If you have to file away a little more below 2-7/16th, its OK because you can always use the included shims that came with the Baer kit to bring it back to 2- 7/16th (notice one spacer has a shim) ***also note those are 4.5" bolts- the 5" bolts are required for the hardware I used.


Step 3-

Paint the spacers if you like and let them dry while you start working on the spindles. (See Above...ooooohhhhh Aaaahhhhhhh)

Step 4-

Grab the Step drill bit and mark with a Sharpie the 5/8" step. The step drill is important. It makes it so you can center the 5/8" drill bit later. Drill down with the step drill ONLY TO THE 5/8" step (Sharpie Mark)




Step 5-

Grab the 5/8" drill bit and drill down trying to maintain correct alignment- If the drill bit is grabbing alot, re-position straight in relation to the hole.



Step 6-

Install away and tighten everything up.



Step 7-

Grab a beverage and relax knowing you will not have crazy bumpsteer racing around the track.

[metalmaker12]

Nice bracket. Lol.

Those cooling tu es really do look nice. I may have to break down and buy a set.

I bought em, my cart is going into transformation this off season. Going back to clean it up when bodies off and rebuild motor.

[Rasmus]

As for the other guys with 818R's- I doubt if you want to install the aluminum cockpit stuff on the drivers side door area (and leg area). It will get in the way since we cant open doors (and its sharp!). Plus, FFR is shorting us panels on the inside anyway. Its nothing like the 818S because of our roll bars. If I do install it, it will be on the other side of the door bar- As long if it does not interfere with the body installation.

Chad. Still of this opinion? I'm looking at the same thing and wondering why I even need to install the side panels.

[C.Plavan]

Rasmus- I'm going to be adding a think aluminum side intrusion plate on the outside of the roll bar. I may put some of the aluminum panels on if I do that. I do want to keep the heat away from me too from the coolant lines.

I'm also going to do that on the passenger side to protect the fuel cell from anything that may want to puncture it going through the fiberglass doors. I have to box the fuel cell up anyway,

[Wayne Presley]

Chad,
have you thought about doing side intrusion plates then putting in energy absorbing foam between the door skins and the plates? In a side impact every little bit helps.

[C.Plavan]

Chad,
have you thought about doing side intrusion plates then putting in energy absorbing foam between the door skins and the plates? In a side impact every little bit helps.

Yes- on the side intrusion plates. I didn't think about the foam- What kind of foam would you use? The SFI stuff is $$$$$

Are you building Bstuke's 818R? If so how is it coming along?

[Wayne Presley]

But I don't believe the SFI stuff will poison you if it burns...
Almost done with Bob's go kart. Just have to get it on the dyno.

[C.Plavan]

Very true.... haha

[Rasmus]

Links to the SFI stuff for side impacts? What's it called?