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Thread: How I Bend Brake Lines

  1. #1
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    How I Bend Brake Lines

    I was having a problem when I needed to bend my brake lines at an exact position to pass through an access hole that I had drilled.
    I asked around and the answer I most often got was "You have to practice and once you get the hang of it, it's easy".
    I'm a bit more scientific than that and came up with a way to get my bends exactly where I want them.

    1. I purchased a tube bender. This is the one I use. It's cheap and available at any local auto parts store. The measurements I use here are for this bender, other benders may require different measurements.
    Img1.jpg

    2. Line up the brake line with the hole it must pass through and mark the location on the tube.
    Img4.jpg

    3. Measure and mark a spot 2.5" from the location marked in step #2.
    Img5.jpg

    4. Line up the mark from step #3 with the support on the tube bender. Make sure you use the correct mold for the size tube you are using.
    Img6.jpg

    5. Bend the tube, making sure it's tight with the contour of the tube bender.
    Img7.jpg

    6. Install the tube.
    Img8.jpg


    Note: Another useful tool is a pair of tube bending pliers. There are great for the small bends where the brake lines attach to the MC or flex lines.
    Img2.jpg

    I hope this helps someone.

    Good Luck!!
    Last edited by hrosenthal; 06-21-2013 at 11:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    Word to the wise, use a rubber grommet to isolate the tube from the panel. Less chance of wearing a hole and no clattering from vibration.
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  3. #3
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    I purchased a tube bender form Eastwood and there are marks on the part that rotates for the different size tubes that line up with the mark you make on the tube. Your step 3 is built into the bender.
    http://www.eastwood.com/triple-head-...16-3-8-in.html

    Bill Lomenick
    Chotis Bill

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHOTIS BILL View Post
    I purchased a tube bender form Eastwood and there are marks on the part that rotates for the different size tubes that line up with the mark you make on the tube. Your step 3 is built into the bender.
    http://www.eastwood.com/triple-head-...16-3-8-in.html

    Bill Lomenick
    That's good to know. I would have preferred that. In fact, I am ordering one now for the future.

    Thanks

  5. #5
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    X2 on the right tools for the job and the grommet. One other tip is to make templates out of thick gauge wire (like used for coat hangers) first, then bend the tubing to match - easier and cheaper to ruin rebend the wire than to toss out a mis-bent tube.
    Later,
    Chris

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    Most quality bender come with setbacks marked on the tool or in the instructions. The setbacks are different for each size of tube being bent, also different depending on if you are bending the dead end or the live end of the tube.

  7. #7
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    I just use a hanger and then bend the tube to match it...................easy simple and cheap.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrosenthal View Post
    I was having a problem when I needed to bend my brake lines at an exact position to pass through an access hole that I had drilled. I asked around and the answer I most often got was "You have to practice and once you get the hang of it, it's easy". I'm a bit more scientific than that and came up with a way to get my bends exactly where I want them."
    I was one of the ones that said to practice, but didn't say you wouldn't need to use a repeatable process. Just didn't give a lot of detail. What you described is what you learn by practicing, and very similar to what I did as well.

    When I made the practice pieces, I put witness marks on them with a sharpie showing the location of the bender. I used the outside of the little flip over piece that locks the tube in the bender as the reference point. I have two benders, and each one has a different distance from the lock to the outside radius of the bend. I typically used calipers to get this location the first time, but still sometimes takes a few tries to get it right. Once fitted properly, transfer the proper mark to the real piece and repeat. Makes the bends precise and repeatable.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-22-2013 at 10:20 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I was one of the ones that said to practice, but didn't say you wouldn't need to use a repeatable process. Just didn't give a lot of detail.
    I wasn't referring to you when I wrote that, you gave me a great suggestion with an explanation. I went to 3 different local auto stores and the answer I got was shrugged shoulders and that I should practice. Since they all carried the same bending tool that I own, I figured they would know how to use it. Sometimes I get great sales help in these stores, but not on this particular day.

  10. #10
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    I use a similar method but mark the tube where i want the tube's bend to finish and also put a mark along the tube which should end up on the outside of the tube as an indication for when I put the bender on the tube to make sure i bend it in the right direction, as there is nothing more annoying than bending a 6m (approx20ft) length of tube and finding one bend 180 deg out (usually the last one).

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by xatudor View Post
    I use a similar method but mark the tube where i want the tube's bend to finish and also put a mark along the tube which should end up on the outside of the tube as an indication for when I put the bender on the tube to make sure i bend it in the right direction, as there is nothing more annoying than bending a 6m (approx20ft) length of tube and finding one bend 180 deg out (usually the last one).
    Great idea, I'll use that next time.

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