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More Body Work Questions
Hey, guys,
I finally got the body on the car again for the first time. Way tighter fit than I remember from the build school and lots of new learnings for when I need to do final install after paint (eg need access under the trunk floor for quick jack tightening so need carpet easily lifted and trunk floor cover plates go on last!). Had to do a lot of muscling and shifting but everything looks good and I think an overall good fit. However, I do have a few other questions, some just to build on others I have already asked. Thanks for the help.
1. I have learned that only the hood needs insulation or rubber spacers while fitting up, but I think the door, trunk lid and hood panels all need to be mounted to the chassis to make sure the opening gaps and fit relative to the body all match up. Is that true? For the hood, would that include the closing handles?
2. Does the hood opening need to be fastened into the 3/4" frame along the sides? I have seen some posts saying yes, but also seen photos where clearly there was a small gap. I can press the hood opening down about 1/8" on one side (in the middle of the opening and less as I move to the front and back of the opening) and a bit more on the other side (which includes compressing the weatherstripping). The hood is not "gapped" yet but actually fits up pretty well with the side openings as it is now - this will likely change some when the gap is made larger. But, I am a bit concerned about tightening the opening down and having the hood sit above the body then having to do lots of work with filler to get them aligned later.
3. On the driver side of the hood opening, the body actually is in contact with the top panel of the footbox where it is attached to the 3/4" frame. Not sure if I should plan to sand or cut the bottom of the hood opening down at that point to create a gap. If so, I probably need to do that prior to any hood fitting. Note - that side of the hood opening is actually the one that is tightest on the support frame along the hood opening.
4. At the rear of the cockpit, I have a very tight fit - barely can force the insulation between the wall and body lip. As it is I will have to remove the top inch or so of insulation so that when I put the carpet in it will fit under. Once painted, it will limit this fit even more. Should I grind the inside of the lip when I take the body off the next time to open that up a bit? Is there a minimum gap I should target if I do this? Ultimately I want it tight, but don't want to have to "force fit" more than reasonable.
I am sure more questions will come as I get more into it (never done body work before) but this will keep me going for a while. Thanks again - you have been great with the help.
Dan
Mark IV. Pick up April 1, 2011. Complete Kit, 3 link, 3.31 rear, 347 Stroker with Powerjection III EFI, Tremec TKO600. Build completed March 1, 2014. See build info at :
http://www.roadster.mightypirates.com/
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