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Thread: Removable Roll Bars

  1. #1
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    Removable Roll Bars

    Hi folks,

    I just poked around on this forum and a couple of the older ones and some people have made removable roll bars. I am toying with the idea of a quick release roll bar set up for track days and the like. Anyone do that and have pictures of the install? I do get the safety trade offs and so forth. I am looking for people that have done it and their thoughts about how as well as if they are still happy with it.

    Thanks!

    Dan

  2. #2
    facultyofmusic's Avatar
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    I'm interested to hear more about what you mean by "removable". The roll bars installed the way FFR suggests is already removable right? Do you mean like an additional roll-bar like safety device on top of the factory roll bars, or like a quick release for the factory roll bars?
    Mk4 Roadster: Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, T56 Magnum. Build thread here.

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    Not something i'd want to do often, but I have the breeze roll bars... three bolts and it comes out.
    MK4 Complete Kit #10315 / Coyote G3 / TKX / 427 HardTop
    Build Thread Production Date: 2/26/22, Registered 5/19/22, Graduated 3/1/2023

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    I do mean something like a quick release, although I don't know if it is needed or not. I haven't actually done an install yet. If it really is as simply as three bolts, and it is easy to get to without removing body parts, that likely meets my needs.

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    You need to remove the rear wheel to access the outside bolt for the hoop. The bars often need “persuasion” (spreading or squeezing) to engage with the chassis tubes.

    Jeff

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    You need to remove the rear wheel to access the outside bolt for the hoop. The bars often need “persuasion” (spreading or squeezing) to engage with the chassis tubes.

    Jeff
    OH, SO true. Something that you don't hear often. When my bar came back from the powder coater, it would not fit at all. Just the heat from the oven relaxed the tension in the bar and changed the width by almost 1/8". It was a big pain in the a$$ to tweak it to get it fit.
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    OH, SO true. Something that you don't hear often. When my bar came back from the powder coater, it would not fit at all. Just the heat from the oven relaxed the tension in the bar and changed the width by almost 1/8". It was a big pain in the a$$ to tweak it to get it fit.
    I had to tweak the Breeze bar to get it to fit. But afterwards it slips on and off easily, even after chrome plating after I cleaned up the ID some with a small drum sander. A little grease on the slip joints helps.
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

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  8. #8
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    I have been considering a similar capability for my build for some time now. The idea was premised on the concept that my build would have a "day-to-day mode" and a "track mode" where I could convert or swap out a few items the 2 or 3 times a year I would head to the track for a weekend to make the car a bit safer and more track focused. For the roll bar aspect of it, the idea I was developing would have a single driver hoop for day-to-day driving (because it is more aesthetic and the classic Cobra look) and then switch it out on track days for a bigger oversized hoop that extends the entire width of the car (a more rectangular style similar to that of the Challenge cars that sits a bit higher for safety as I don't really care what it would look like).

    The big issue I haven't come to terms with yet is how do I plug the two holes that would be needed in the body on the passenger side that aren't used when operating in the day-to-day mode. If the whole purpose of the exercise is to make the car look good in "day-to-day mode" - those holes will need to be dealt with or the overall effect would be a negative and therefore the exercise futile.

    As for removing the hoop itself the FFR bars should be removable (at least in theory) given they are attached with bolts but I'm sure it would be a pain. There migh be some bending or beveling that can be employed to make that transition a bit easier. I'm not as concerned with that problem as this would only be done a few times a year so I don't mind removing the passenger rear wheel (I'm going to do that during the car check the night before anyways) and crawling into the trunk. I'm sure once a process is found it probably will go pretty smoothly.

    Although it goes beyond the scope of this thread - the other items I was planning on changing between "modes" was 1) adding removable metal grates to shield the oil cooler and radiator openings, 2) swapping out the wooden wheel for an alcantara racing wheel, 3) adding a removable front air dam for high-speed stability, 4) removable tow hooks front and rear, and 5) head rests for both seating locations. All these would represent items that safety/protective-wise I would like to have on track but that I don't necessarily want to deal with on a day-to-day basis when cruising around town (or that I just find less desirable for the look I'm going for).

    In the end all of it is still theoretical on my part but I would certainly be interested to see how/if you decide to proceed. Keep me posted!
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

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    You mean like this? These fittings are made from billet 4130. Stronger than an uninterrupted .090" wall tube.
    DSC00451.JPGDSC00452.JPGDSC00458.JPG
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
    You mean like this? These fittings are made from billet 4130. Stronger than an uninterrupted .090" wall tube.
    DSC00451.JPGDSC00452.JPGDSC00458.JPG
    Maybe? I can't tell. How do you get them in or out? Is is a insert and rotate and lock kind of thing? Did you make them?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
    You mean like this? These fittings are made from billet 4130. Stronger than an uninterrupted .090" wall tube.
    DSC00451.JPGDSC00452.JPGDSC00458.JPG
    Very nice looking and clever.
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by danmas View Post
    Maybe? I can't tell. How do you get them in or out? Is is a insert and rotate and lock kind of thing? Did you make them?
    Once unbolted they come apart easily.
    https://www.jegs.com/i/Trail+Gear/54...hoCRNMQAvD_BwE
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
    Once unbolted they come apart easily.
    https://www.jegs.com/i/Trail+Gear/54...hoCRNMQAvD_BwE
    Very cool!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    You need to remove the rear wheel to access the outside bolt for the hoop. The bars often need “persuasion” (spreading or squeezing) to engage with the chassis tubes.

    Jeff
    I used a floor jack to spread open the ends of my roll bar hoop. Worked pretty well.
    "You never know how strong you are, until being strong is the only choice you have."

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