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Thread: digital guard dawg with GPS and starter cutoff wiring question

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    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    digital guard dawg with GPS and starter cutoff wiring question

    I have the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-I system with the optional GPS/cutoff accessory

    a few questions - on the main unit:


    1. ACC2 where do I wire it? or is it a dead line?
    2. accessory wire brown to brake switch+, where does purple line go? (switch to ground as you approach) <- is this just a ground wire?


    on the GPS/accessory relay:

    1. red wire to blue start wire - correct?
    2. where does the relay blue wire connect to?


    thanks!

    dgd-wiring.png
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
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    I attached the RF brown ACC wire to the DGD ACC2 brown wire. Per the DGD instructions, the first push of the start button turns on the ACC2 circuit. The second push adds ACC1 and ignition circuits. So the ACC2 acts most like the ACC position on the standard ignition switch. I did use the ACC1 wire, through a breaker, to power a USB accessary port since it was an available circuit. But unrelated to the overall start function. Easy enough to leave it unconnected if you don't want to use it.

    The Purple wire just goes to ground. I don't exactly understand the explanation in the DGD instructions. But that's I did and the system works properly.

    Haven't installed the GPS option pictured. But it appears that relay is just interrupting the blue start wire when signaled to do so. So you'd break the RF blue start wire and attach the red and blue wires in between as shown.
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    I can't answer your questions on the GPS/accessory relay as I didn't install that option, but on the main unit:

    - ACC2 is just a second source of accessory power. You can use it to power whatever you want. I believe it has a 60A total output. If used, it actually comes on first, i.e., the first press of the start button without the brake pedal depressed will energize the ACC2 circuit. A second press of the start button without the brake pedal depressed will energize the ACC1 circuit. Pressing the start button with the brake pedal depressed will start the engine. I used the ACC2 circuit to power my E-Stopp parking brake through a self-resetting circuit breaker. So, first press of the start button energizes the parking brake, second press turns on the main ACC circuit to the RF harness. If the ACC2 wire isn't used, then it is ignored, i.e., first press of the starter button turns on the ACC circuit to the RF harness. One other thing to note about the ACC2 circuit is that is is momentarily turned off during starter cranking, so it could be used to power high-draw items like heaters, etc. I didn't do that, but it's worth being aware of.

    - Accessory harness purple wire is just a ground wire.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnK View Post
    I can't answer your questions on the GPS/accessory relay as I didn't install that option, but on the main unit:

    - ACC2 is just a second source of accessory power. You can use it to power whatever you want. I believe it has a 60A total output. If used, it actually comes on first, i.e., the first press of the start button without the brake pedal depressed will energize the ACC2 circuit. A second press of the start button without the brake pedal depressed will energize the ACC1 circuit. Pressing the start button with the brake pedal depressed will start the engine. I used the ACC2 circuit to power my E-Stopp parking brake through a self-resetting circuit breaker. So, first press of the start button energizes the parking brake, second press turns on the main ACC circuit to the RF harness. If the ACC2 wire isn't used, then it is ignored, i.e., first press of the starter button turns on the ACC circuit to the RF harness. One other thing to note about the ACC2 circuit is that is is momentarily turned off during starter cranking, so it could be used to power high-draw items like heaters, etc. I didn't do that, but it's worth being aware of.

    - Accessory harness purple wire is just a ground wire.
    John -- What you did is fine and I'm sure works OK. But the ACC2 is most like the ACC function when using the standard ignition switch. It turns on with the first push of the start button. Just like turning the ignition key to the ACC position. Which in turn powers the ACC circuits in the RF panel and nothing else. Which is why I wired the RF brown ACC wire to the DGD ACC2 wire in my build. In the RF panel, that means the gauges, radio, wiper, and heater are the only circuits active. Maybe for our builds this isn't a big concern, but it's most like DD's and how the circuits are designed. Like if you wanted to only listen to the radio or whatever without all the added ignition circuits (fuel pump, EFI, etc.).

    The second push adds ACC1 and ignition. So duplicates the ignition key being in the run position and all circuits are powered. Initiating the start function does turn off the ACC2 wire as you described while the starter is cranking. Also the same as the standard ignition switch so that maximum power is available for the starter.

    The above is described in the DGD instructions and I confirmed during my installation. Wired this way it most closely duplicates a standard ignition switch overall. The ACC1 wire is kind of an extra compared to a standard switch. Not the ACC2. Again, for our builds probably doesn't matter a lot and wiring your E-STOPP to be energized with the first push of the button might be the best solution. But FWIW.
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-09-2022 at 11:39 PM.
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  6. #5
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I attached the RF brown ACC wire to the DGD ACC2 brown wire. Per the DGD instructions, the first push of the start button turns on the ACC2 circuit. The second push adds ACC1 and ignition circuits. So the ACC2 acts most like the ACC position on the standard ignition switch. I did use the ACC1 wire, through a breaker, to power a USB accessary port since it was an available circuit. But unrelated to the overall start function. Easy enough to leave it unconnected if you don't want to use it.

    The Purple wire just goes to ground. I don't exactly understand the explanation in the DGD instructions. But that's I did and the system works properly.

    Haven't installed the GPS option pictured. But it appears that relay is just interrupting the blue start wire when signaled to do so. So you'd break the RF blue start wire and attach the red and blue wires in between as shown.
    sorry should have stated I'm using the Type 2 setup
    type-2-dgd-starter.png

    this allows me to push the start button (no pedal) and turn on the stereo without starting the car, akin to turning the key to ACC in a regular key motion, so it sounds like I should connect DGD ACC2 to the RF ACC on the tumbler, not RF ACC1

    so - do I put both DGD ACC1 and ACC2 to the RF ACC post? and the logic in the box will work?


    thanks for the purple ground hint, that's what we though - it's a failsafe to a relay to say the keyfob is near enough to ground the circuit...



    sorry for the dumb questions, my electrical brain is tired...
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
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    Quote Originally Posted by toadster View Post
    sorry should have stated I'm using the Type 2 setup

    this allows me to push the start button (no pedal) and turn on the stereo without starting the car, akin to turning the key to ACC in a regular key motion, so it sounds like I should connect DGD ACC2 to the RF ACC on the tumbler, not RF ACC1

    so - do I put both DGD ACC1 and ACC2 to the RF ACC post? and the logic in the box will work?

    PBS I and PBS II have exactly the same power wiring. The difference is the added accessory harness for the PBS II. Power for both is wired the same way, depending on how you want it to work. As described in previous posts and in the instructions. Might not hurt anything, but no reason to connect both ACC1 and ACC2 to the RF ACC wire.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.

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    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    finally got around to moving ACC2 to the RF ACC

    now for the brown wire, DGD says to wire to the cold side of the brake switch

    in the wilwood kit which is the 'cold' side? the one closest to the button? or farthest?


    brake-switch.png

    I currently have the orange wire (Brake Feed) in the top most position, and the purple wire in the 2nd from top position
    which would I tie in the DGD brown wire?
    Todd
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    Usually whatever side isn’t hot. The switch just closes the circuit.

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    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbl7td View Post
    Usually whatever side isn’t hot. The switch just closes the circuit.

    yes -I believe it's the purple (2nd from the front)
    Todd
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    Position on the switch doesn't matter. It's just closing the circuit applying the +12V brake feed to the lighting circuit. So either wire can go on either terminal. "Cold" means no voltage on the wire except when the brake pedal is pushed and the switch closes. For the Ron Francis harness, the orange wire (ORG-GRK SWFD) is the always on +12V feed and the purple wire (PURP-BRK SW -> BRK LTS) is the "cold" lead. That's where you should attach the DGD wire. Easily confirmed by studying the RF wiring diagram in the manual. Also with a VOM measuring which side has voltage with the switch open. It's a signal to the DGD module to only initiate the start and stop functions when the brake pedal is pushed down.
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    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Position on the switch doesn't matter. It's just closing the circuit applying the +12V brake feed to the lighting circuit. So either wire can go on either terminal. "Cold" means no voltage on the wire except when the brake pedal is pushed and the switch closes. For the Ron Francis harness, the orange wire (ORG-GRK SWFD) is the always on +12V feed and the purple wire (PURP-BRK SW -> BRK LTS) is the "cold" lead. That's where you should attach the DGD wire. Easily confirmed by studying the RF wiring diagram in the manual. Also with a VOM measuring which side has voltage with the switch open. It's a signal to the DGD module to only initiate the start and stop functions when the brake pedal is pushed down.
    yes we attached to the purple lead - we tested the switch with the VOM to ensure functionality
    Thank you for reaffirming!
    Todd
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
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    I talked to the folks at DGD about the purple wire and they said it’s used to provide a ground to a relay to turn on a light on the dash to indicate the system is armed, for example. They said most people choose not to use it. It does not need to be grounded, it provides a ground. If you’re not using it just cap it off.
    Last edited by Jim Frahm; 10-31-2022 at 04:07 PM.

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    Out of curiosity I decided to check the purple wire to see if it switches to ground as you approach the vehicle. Mine did not. I'm going to contact them again for clarification. I'll let you know what I find out.

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    This is straight off their website under the FAQ's https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/pbs-i-pbs-ii-support/

    What do I do with the Ground upon Disarm wire?

    This wire is an output wire, when the system is disarmed this wire spits out a ground signal, most of our customers do not take advantage of this wire and you can simply cap the wire off. However this wire can be used to control lighting or other features based on your proximity with a valid itag to the vehicle.

    I hope this helps you out!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Frahm View Post
    This is straight off their website under the FAQ's https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/pbs-i-pbs-ii-support/

    What do I do with the Ground upon Disarm wire?

    This wire is an output wire, when the system is disarmed this wire spits out a ground signal, most of our customers do not take advantage of this wire and you can simply cap the wire off. However this wire can be used to control lighting or other features based on your proximity with a valid itag to the vehicle.

    I hope this helps you out!
    Jim
    Did you manage to get that purple wire to switch to ground on disarm ?

    thanks
    mark
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