Donor Engine Prep

[Jaguar Engineer]

I have a MK4 base kit on order and am about to start disassembling donor car (2002 Mustang GT with 85k miles). Any tips on the extent of engine prep would be prudent. I’m going to keep it mainly stock, may do a cam upgrade. Anyway was going to hit the basics (plugs, boots, belt). Any other cheap insurance/might as well do it while out of the car type recommendations? (Oil pump, water pump, seals, gaskets, clutch, etc.). Thanks in advance.

[JohnnyB]

Twenty years ago I cleaned up my 60 thousand mile 5.0 Donor and replaced the clutch and throwout bearing, plugs, wires, water pump, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. In the 38k miles since then I’ve replaced the plugs, wires and distributor cap again, water pump again, alternator and the TFI module. It’s still running great and still has a small drip from the front crank seal. No regrets here and I still drive it every chance I get.

[Jaguar Engineer]

Twenty years ago I cleaned up my 60 thousand mile 5.0 Donor and replaced the clutch and throwout bearing, plugs, wires, water pump, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. In the 38k miles since then I’ve replaced the plugs, wires and distributor cap again, water pump again, alternator and the TFI module. It’s still running great and still has a small drip from the front crank seal. No regrets here and I still drive it every chance I get.

Thanks for the input. Nice webpage, by the way, loved the cost breakdown.

[Big Blocker]

Best advice I ever got from an old school mechanic: IF the factory seals are not leaking or haven't been disturbed since the engine was assembled at the factory, don't take it apart . . . external things that go bad are water pumps, hoses, alternators, PS pumps, other bolted on accessories. 85K is not bad mileage for these newer engines that are built to closer standards then the older blocks. Unless you have a specific issue, or oil is leaking out of just about everywhere, don't mess with it other than external stuff.

Give it a good cleaning, replace any rubber hoses (vacuum lines) might want to replace the PVC and you'll be good to go . . .

Just my 2¢

Doc

[DadofThree]

The engine that I am using sat on an engine stand for 6 years (1995 302), so I decided to change all gaskets, seals and anything that was easy to reach while the engine was out of the car.

It had rusty sludge in it, so I included the freeze plugs in the list of items to replace. (BTW, if you do replace the freeze plugs, remember to use sealant when putting in the new ones).

I replace the water pump, timing chain and sprockets, put a E303 cam in it, changed all seals (front and rear main), pilot bearing, oil pump, thermostat, harmonic balancer, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, clutch fork, throw out bearing, pivot ball stud (can't remember the term), gaskets and motor mounts. Learned a lot about the engine, and felt confident about it when putting it in the car.

It's a lot easier to do when the motor is out of the car.

20170212_222832 by D. R., on Flickr

[CraigS]

You have the engine on a stand so I would replace every gasket including head gaskets and especially intake gaskets. They are not that expensive and todays gaskets are better than yesterday's. Also todays sealants are better. For the intakes you want the steel lined gaskets. Felpro #s are;
1250 S-3 (port size 1.20" x 2.00")
1262 S-3 (port size 1.28" x 2.10")
1253 S-2 & 1253 S-3 (SVO/Yates head w/port size 1.35" x1.95)

[Cobradavid]

Best advice I ever got from an old school mechanic: IF the factory seals are not leaking or haven't been disturbed since the engine was assembled at the factory, don't take it apart . . . external things that go bad are water pumps, hoses, alternators, PS pumps, other bolted on accessories. 85K is not bad mileage for these newer engines that are built to closer standards then the older blocks. Unless you have a specific issue, or oil is leaking out of just about everywhere, don't mess with it other than external stuff.

Give it a good cleaning, replace any rubber hoses (vacuum lines) might want to replace the PVC and you'll be good to go . . .

Just my 2¢

Doc

Doc has good advice.

Back in 2008, my donor engine was a 2001 4.6 SOHC with 46k miles. I just cleaned it up, replaced the water pump, the stock oil pan and headers, painted the valve covers and that was pretty much it. If your engine has the all-plastic intake manifold, make sure the water cross-over tube isn't cracked or leaking. You might consider replacing the manifold if it's all plastic because there were problems with them cracking and Ford redesigned it to have a metal water cross-over.

David

[Jaguar Engineer]

Doc has good advice.

Back in 2008, my donor engine was a 2001 4.6 SOHC with 46k miles. I just cleaned it up, replaced the water pump, the stock oil pan and headers, painted the valve covers and that was pretty much it. If your engine has the all-plastic intake manifold, make sure the water cross-over tube isn't cracked or leaking. You might consider replacing the manifold if it's all plastic because there were problems with them cracking and Ford redesigned it to have a metal water cross-over.

David

Thanks for the advice. What’s the cross over tube?

[Cobradavid]

The cross over tube (that might not be the real name for it) is the tube that carries coolant from one head to the other. It's the silver part at the front of the intake manifold in this picture. The thermostat housing is mounted to the driver's side of the tube.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vkMAA...Pf/s-l1600.jpg
That engine has the plastic intake manifold with a metal cross-over tube.


This engine has the all plastic intake manifold. Notice that the crossover tube is black plastic.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/J2wAA...2t/s-l1600.jpg

David