Power Surge's Coupe #692 Gen3 build...

Guess it's a good time to start up a build thread for my Daytona. The car is ordered, and I've got a completion date of late August. It was originally sooner, but I requested pushing it back a month so I can work on getting the garage ready.

My plan for the car is a nice, vintage looking, fun street driver. Will visually be like one of the original cars. Guardsman blue with Wimbleton white stripes. Vintage looking interior. Pin drive wheels. Planning a nice high revving 289 or 302 with Webers.

Here is how I've done the initial order. Naturally I can change it up from now till when they call to go over the final specs.

- Gen 3 Complete Coupe Kit
- Powder coated chassis
- SBF motor mounts
- FFR 302 headers and stainless side exhaust
- Manual clutch cable
- 3 link rear setup
- Moser complete built 3 link 8.8, narrow width
- Power steering rack
- Black Coupe GPS upgrade gauges
- Black vinyl roadster seats
- 11" front brake setup
- 11.65" rear complete brake setup
- Standard wood steering wheel
- Coupe A/C option
- Coupe black carpet kit
- Coupe side window kit
- Front sway bar upgrade

I am not sure if I should get the body cut out option. I would like to hear from people if they felt FFR does a good job or should I do my own cut outs.

Additional/upgraded parts so far are as follows:

- SBF with TFS 170 heads, 10:1 comp, Webers. Should be about 400-450 hp.
- Tremec TKX trans setup
- TFS fuel filter setup on rear of frame
- Extra a/c dash vents
- Snakebite trunk compartment
- Backup camera/rear view mirror
- Pro-m fuel pump hanger
- Boig coolant tubes
- Digital Guard Dawg RFIK system
- Door poppers (maybe)
- Breeze fuel tank vent kit
- Breeze fan shroud
- Howe Racing upper ball joints
- Vintage Wheels pin drive FIA wheels. Using the Gen3 front wheels, and Gen1/2 rear wheels with the narrowed Moser rear for a more "tucked" rear look


These are some of the ideas I've got based on member build posts here and feedback on the Facebook pages. I was considering the turn signal column as well, but several coupe owners said a switch on the dash works just fine (and looks more vintage).

Any feedback or additional suggestions are welcome!

Sal

Nice looking build. I really like the IRS in my Gen3 Coupe. But maybe with your choice of pin drive, the options are limited. Hopefully you've sorted out the front suspension issues with pin drive. That Pro-M hangar has doubled in price recently. Not sure why but it's crazy. There are other options that make more sense. Like Aeromotive 18638 or Holley 12-345 (what I'm using in my Mk5 Roadster build). I'd let Factory Five do the cutouts. Not a lot of them on the Coupe, but still gets you in the ballpark and not expensive.

Thanks Paul. I have read your awesome build thread as well as several other people's, and they have been incredible references for pictures and other parts ideas.

As for the wheels, vintage Wheels makes a pin Drive wheel setup specifically for the stock gen 3 Coop suspension. That is why I am going to use their gen 3 front wheels with the stock coupe front suspension, and because I want the more vintage tucked look on the back I'm doing the narrowed solid axle with the Gen 1 / Gen 2 pin Drive Wheels. Thank you my due diligence on the research for this and I believe this will work. So if somebody has first hand experience with this that contradicts it I would love to hear.

Congrats and welcome! 2nd on Paul's recommendation on the cutouts. I didn't feel the cost outweighed the time it would take to get them cut right.

Welcome aboard, Sal! You've put together a really nice list of upgrades/options.

I also chose the F5 cutout option for my Coupe build (and my MK4 build as well). I agree with the guys above and recommend it too.

I chose the cutout option for my coupe as well ....think it will get me close enough for me to fine tune it later and the less fiberglass dust the better LOL!!

Got my final order review done, and added the cut outs. Completion date is 8/23. Stewart Transport standing by when ready. Been working on getting the garage ready for the build. Epoxy painted the floor, new white pegboard wall panels, new fuse panel and rewired everything, and new garage lighting. We're getting there.

Ok did a little space testing this weekend, where I plan to build the coupe. Brought my Monroe Handler back to the garage since it's close in size. Got plenty of room. I could fit two of these cars in there, and there's still about 4 ft left in front of the car too. Should be more than enough space for the chassis build, body off, and all the parts for the car.

BTW, the Monroe Handler IS for sale... if anyone wants the opportunity to own a super rare piece of automotive history. Shoot me a PM.

https://i.ibb.co/xZkhQkX/20250809-160432.jpg

You own one of the Handler's.
Very Cool!
Always liked those.

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Originally Posted by 8secDuster

You own one of the Handler's.
Very Cool!
Always liked those.

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Yes sir. One of the 6 original promotion cars, and the only one still with it's original paint.

Hey power surge any updates on your coupe?

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

Hey power surge any updates on your coupe?

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Funny you should ask... ;)

Delivered yesterday :D


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Let the fun begin!

You lucky dog …. My completion date is 9/20/25 so in five days…. but Stewart transport said they can’t deliver till early or mid October ….. With that being said I’m playing the waiting game! Super happy for you though Congratulations on receiving your kit enjoy your build…Just out of curiosity what state are you in?

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

You lucky dog …. My completion date is 9/20/25 so in five days…. but Stewart transport said they can’t deliver till early or mid October ….. With that being said I’m playing the waiting game! Super happy for you though Congratulations on receiving your kit enjoy your build…Just out of curiosity what state are you in?

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Thanks! I'm in St Augustine.

Just in time for some nice fall weather, congrats. Curious to see how you build yours.

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

You lucky dog …. My completion date is 9/20/25 so in five days…. but Stewart transport said they can’t deliver till early or mid October ….. With that being said I’m playing the waiting game! Super happy for you though Congratulations on receiving your kit enjoy your build…Just out of curiosity what state are you in?

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There are a lot of Coupe builds to follow at them moment which is great. Just got confirmation from Todd @ Stewart that we'll have ours this Saturday the 21st!!

I look forward to following along with your build.

Sitting here in Amelia Island watching your delivery pictures! While my build date is now complete, F5 will be holding my kit until end of December.

In the meantime, a few questions. I’m seeing both blue and red bodies on these. What gives? Anniversary edition vs conventional build? Is there an option for a carbon fiber dash on the coupe? When do the carbon fiber bodies come in for the anniversary models? And, I’ve seen some make a body buck for the coupe and others seem to just store it away or hang it from the ceiling. Your plan?

Kind of an overall blast to the forum members for info but may be making a road trip to meet as your build progresses!

Sal…my kids and grandson live in nocatee fl so right up the road from you…. we visit them at least once a month maybe next time we are headed that way we can meet up so I can see your kit …. I’ve never actually have seen a Daytona in person before …. If you would be cool with that send me a pm and I’ll give you my phone # …Thanks
Best Regards
Mark

Sea hut …I believe the blue bodies are designated for the 30th anniversary cars …. I believe the carbon bodies are having problems being delivered due to embargo’s and the carbon dash as of right now is not available either…… otherwise I would have purchased one with my kit …. If your coupe has been completed why if I may ask is it not getting delivered to dec?

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Originally Posted by Sea Hut

Sitting here in Amelia Island watching your delivery pictures! While my build date is now complete, F5 will be holding my kit until end of December.

In the meantime, a few questions. I’m seeing both blue and red bodies on these. What gives? Anniversary edition vs conventional build? Is there an option for a carbon fiber dash on the coupe? When do the carbon fiber bodies come in for the anniversary models? And, I’ve seen some make a body buck for the coupe and others seem to just store it away or hang it from the ceiling. Your plan?

Kind of an overall blast to the forum members for info but may be making a road trip to meet as your build progresses!

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The blue bodies are for the 30th anniversary cars. Trust me, I tried to get a blue body, lol. The carbon fiber body is an additional option, for 30th cars. I'm not planning on doing a body buck, but that could change.

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

Sal…my kids and grandson live in nocatee fl so right up the road from you…. we visit them at least once a month maybe next time we are headed that way we can meet up so I can see your kit …. I’ve never actually have seen a Daytona in person before …. If you would be cool with that send me a pm and I’ll give you my phone # …Thanks
Best Regards
Mark

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Sure, I would be fine with that. Shoot me a PM.

OK, that explains the color difference. Thanks! I’m lined up for the anniversary model. Due to an extended travel schedule in the fall, I asked F5 if they could hold mine until I return in December. They agreed, of course with receipt of my full payment ��! I’m hoping by then that things might be a little clearer regarding the cf stuff.

Now that I have a printed build manual ($300 later), I went through it and familiarized myself with everything. I made a list of small items to send out for powder coat (mainly little brackets and spacers that I do not foresee needing modification) and dropped them off.

I've acquired some more initial items to aid the build. Got the set of rivet spacers from Aircraft Spruce. I bought a bunch of different size Clecos (not pictured here). I got the Harbor Freight Doyle Rivnut tool after seeing such great recommendations for it. Also got a bunch of different sized rivnuts, in steel and aluminum from McMaster Carr, along with a few tubes of inspection marking gel. Picked up the Howe Racing upper ball joints and Energy Suspension ball joint covers that many seem to use here. I've also had a stool I got from my Napa rep a while back and never used, and I figured it would be perfect with the work bench for the build!

I would like to get some feedback on two thoughts I have... panel silicone and panel rivets.

Do the panels need the "adhesion" of the silicone, or is it mainly for sealing and noise reduction? Could I use thin rubber stripping instead? I have also seen some people use body seam sealer instead of actual silicone.

As for the rivets.... could one use button head screws instead of rivets on the paneling?

I guess I'm just thinking about if any panels need to be removed in the future for accessing anything for service.

Thoughts?

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Adhesive of the panels is important. The rivets are too, but also serve to hold the panels in place while the adhesive material cures. I recommend against doing something different. Even the thinnest rubber strips are going to mess with the relatively close fit of the panels. There has been lots of discussion about the most suitable adhesive. Plain old GE silicone sealant from the big box stores is probably the most common. Relatively inexpensive, available in multiple colors, and does the job. Some have suggested using polyurethane products, like Sikaflex or similar. I've tried it. But not sure there's any big advantage and it's quite a bit more expensive.

There are a handful of panels that makes sense to have removable. Like the footbox top covers. But for the most part, the panels are buried in insulation materials and carpet. Not going to be easy to remove and I would question the value anyway. Once everything is installed (fuel lines, brake lines, electrical harness, etc.) they are still accessible should the need arise. Many panels wouldn't be removable anyway without doing major surgery like removing the body, removing the engine, seats, etc. As the saying goes, don't overthink it. Thousands before you have followed the formula successfully.

Posted the same on the other forum.

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Adhesive of the panels is important. The rivets are too, but also serve to hold the panels in place while the adhesive material cures. I recommend against doing something different. Even the thinnest rubber strips are going to mess with the relatively close fit of the panels. There has been lots of discussion about the most suitable adhesive. Plain old GE silicone sealant from the big box stores is probably the most common. Relatively inexpensive, available in multiple colors, and does the job. Some have suggested using polyurethane products, like Sikaflex or similar. I've tried it. But not sure there's any big advantage and it's quite a bit more expensive.

There are a handful of panels that makes sense to have removable. Like the footbox top covers. But for the most part, the panels are buried in insulation materials and carpet. Not going to be easy to remove and I would question the value anyway. Once everything is installed (fuel lines, brake lines, electrical harness, etc.) they are still accessible should the need arise. Many panels wouldn't be removable anyway without doing major surgery like removing the body, removing the engine, seats, etc. As the saying goes, don't overthink it. Thousands before you have followed the formula successfully.

Posted the same on the other forum.

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Thanks Paul. I am sure I was overthinking it. I expected a response like yours...guess I just needed to hear it, lol.

BTW, your build is one that I constantly read over for ideas and references. :cool:

Wooo... my Moser complete 3 link axle showed up.

I did the narrow width version, because I want to do tucked pin drive wheels, similar to how the original cars looked.

I cannot find anyone with a Gen3 who's done 15" pin drive wheels, so I'll be figuring this out on my own lol.

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Got the Moser/FFR 3 link rear end and suspension parts all mocked up in the car. I need to mock up the front and rear suspension stuff with the body on, so I can figure out what I need to do make my wheel setup work.

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Looking great Sal … I completed inventory today and started to layout parts where they are going to permanently live ….. this is so much fun for me to start out with all brand new parts and have everything accounted for is awesome …. The only thing that ff missed that is not on my POL list are the spring washers for my steering linkage … other than that everything is present and accounted for … My car serial number is 1000686dc what’s yours ? Also I was doing some new car goofing by laying the wheels in the wheel wells check it out Attachment 220047Attachment 220046

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

Looking great Sal … I completed inventory today and started to layout parts where they are going to permanently live ….. this is so much fun for me to start out with all brand new parts and have everything accounted for is awesome …. The only thing that ff missed that is not on my POL list are the spring washers for my steering linkage … other than that everything is present and accounted for … My car serial number is 1000686dc what’s yours ? Also I was doing some new car goofing by laying the wheels in the wheel wells check it out Attachment 220047Attachment 220046

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Inventory is a great way to learn about the car. It was fun for me too. I was also just missing some washers and two small brackets.

Looks like you have car 686. I've got 692.

Your wheels looks awesome!

Thank you sir … we are both making progress ….. build on my friend! Installed power rack and assembled shocks as well … Attachment 220086Attachment 220087

So I spend some time this weekend working on figuring out my wheel/suspension setup some more.

I painted all the calipers and mounts with black G2 epoxy caliper paint. Also hit the outer tie rods with some G2 as well so they aren't bare metal.

I got the rear brakes installed on the 3 link rear. Oddly, there are no instructions to install the rear brakes in the build manual. I had to find the instructions on the FFR parts site under the actual rear brake kit. Caliper mounts, calipers, and rotors are on. This way I can check rear wheel setup.

I slipped a cheap wheel spacer on the rotor, to simulate the thickness of the pin drive adapters. Then I put on the Speedway wheel offset tool, set to the width and offset that match the Vintage Wheels narrow rear width pin drive wheels (15x9.5 with 3.75" backspace). Looks like this will give me the tucked rear offset I am looking for (like the original cars).

On the front....not so happy. I found a local guy that was selling the exact Avon CR6 front tires I plan to run. They are old, but will be perfect for mock up. Installed them on the Speedway wheel tool, and set them to the Vintage Wheels Gen3 coupe pin drive offset wheel specs (15x7.5 with 4.25 backspace). Even with the wheel offset that's made for the Gen3, it still sticks way too far out.

I need to go with pin drive control arms. When I ordered my car, pin drive front setup was an option, but I was then told FFR doesn't offer it anymore, and also was told it doesn't work on a coupe, so I was sent standard stuff. But in doing lots of research, the pin drive setup works fine on a gen3 Coupe, and FFR does seem to still have them (they are currently listed in stock on the parts site, and another member was accidentally sent pin drive lowers as recently as a month ago).

So I need to get some pin drive lowers. I'm waiting to hear from FFR if they will exchange me for a set. For the uppers, I can shorten the adjustment collars, and cut down the rods (otherwise they will hit each other when adjusting shorter). I have seen some older posts where people sourced shorter adjustment collars. Anyone know where to get those? I can cut mine down on the lathe, but it would be nice to just buy short ones.

Anyway... some pics!

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Picked up a neat little tool recently. It's a wire marking tool. You place your color of choice Sharpie into the tool, then you pull white wire through the tool and it puts that color tracer stripe on it. Figured it would come in handy for adding in new wiring circuits.

I marked all the engine bay panels, took detailed pics of them all, including the overlaps, and recorded it all.

I also came up with a game plan to modify the front suspension for better pin drive offset. On the bottom, I am going to shorten the control arms 2", just like FFR does. Yes, I could buy their pin drive arms for $700, but I am honestly pretty salty that they won't swap mine out (like they have done for others), especially since I told them I wanted pin drive when I ordered my kit. So I'm just not paying another $700 after spending over 30k. I'll modify mine.

On the top, here's the plan.... Machine 1/2" off each end of the adjustment collars on the upper control arms. Then shorten the threaded ends by 1/2" so they don't hit each other inside the shorter adjustment collars. This will give me 1 inch of the needed 2 inches to match the lowers, but still leave plenty of thread contact inside the collars. Then I will move the mounting holes on the frame back 1 inch to move the entire upper control arm inward. This will give me the other 1 inch needed to make up 2 inches.

By doing this method, I am simply moving the spindle inwards 2 inches, and I can keep the 2 piece spindle and not mess with any weird geometry. At least that's the plan, lol.



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Looks like your getting some things figured out for the pin drive wheels ….nice !

Ok, so I think the front suspension redesign was a success. As previously mentioned, I wanted to move everything inboard 2" because I did not care for the look of the wheel offset on the Gen3 coupe, especially with pin drive setup wheels.

Here is what I did to achieve this...

- shorten the lower control arms 2" (basically reproducing FFR's shortened lowers)
- shorten the upper control arms 1", by cutting each end of the adjustment collar down 1/2" on each side, and the also shorten the male threads by 1/2" on both sides (so they won't hit each other inside the adjustment collar). Did this on my lathe.
- move the upper control arm mounting holes inboard by 1". Thus giving me a combined 2" at the top with the shortened control arms.

Doing it this way, allowed me to keep the two piece spindle setup, not have any whacky geometry, and still moved everything in by 2". Using the Speedway wheel offset tool set to simulate the Vintage Wheels Gen3 coupe front wheel specs, the tire now sits inside the fender area instead of sticking out.

So hopefully, mission accomplished, lol.

On a side note....does anyone know if the lower ball joints are pressed in, or screwed into, the FFR lower control arms?

BEFORE....

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AFTER....

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I believe they are pressed in if I remember correctly. Mine had a snap ring keeper I had to install. That's a lot of work you did and it looks like it's turning out nice.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

I believe they are pressed in if I remember correctly. Mine had a snap ring keeper I had to install. That's a lot of work you did and it looks like it's turning out nice.

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Thank you Tim. This car is going to be my final build, so I am trying to make everything exactly how I envision. Might not work out that way, but I'm gonna try :cool:

Quite the difference in length… that should get you where you want to be…. nice work!

Got my next batch of powder coating back. Modified shortened control arms, sway bar brackets, and sway bar spacers (which I didn't need). Finally got to fully assemble the front end. All spacers, brackets, and the tie rod spindle mounts powder coated. Used the Howe Racing upper ball joints, and the Energy Suspension boots on the upper and lower ball joints. I did run into one snafu... with the shortened control arms, I couldn't use the upgraded Moog tie rod ends. I had to use the stock ones supplied with the kit, and shorten both the inner and outers a bit. So I will need to coat those tie rods black like I did with the Moogs. Didn't need to use the sway bar spacers and long bolts, because the sway bar was originally intended for narrowed control arms. So they just bolted directly to the rod ends. Got the hubs and brakes installed also. Well, after a trip for some missing hardware. It's amazing how much hardware has been missing from the kit so far.




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