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Renee's 289 and my Coupe-R arrived. Doing inventory now on something like 70 boxes - both kits almost entirely complete. Waiting on the shortened 3 link axle, it drop-ships from Moser, any idea how long that takes?
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Wow, two kits at once. Good luck!
I've been working on the Coupe-R non-stop, but today brought the 289 chassis down from the barn to start on it. Renee will mark the aluminum tomorrow and remove it all, then begin prepping for paint - 2 coats of black POR-15. I had the Coupe-R powdercoated by FFR and I'm glad we decided not to powder coat the 289 because the quality of the powder coat on the Coupe frame is terrible. So bad they even tried touching up the bits that were flaking off with spray paint prior to shipping it to me.
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The shortened Moser 3 link axle arrived a few days ago, the short LCA's should be here tomorrow from FFR, they were very accommodating in trading my longer arms for the shorter arms I needed for the pin drive Trigo FIA's.
The plan is Renee builds the car - does all the dirty work like cleaning painting, drilling, riveting, bolting up the suspension bits and installing the engine and trans while I do the bodywork - eventually.
Power steering
Stock FFR brakes
Trigo pin drive FIA's with the same size tires Erik used on his 289, but BF Goodrich T/A's.
Probably going with a Blueprint 302/TKX combo.
Renee says white, maybe Wimbledon white with black stripes - or maybe no stripes.
Wow! That is bad. What did FFR have to say about that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jphoenix
I haven't asked them yet, I was going to just keep touching it up with white POR-15 (which is very durable) but seems everything I touch it just flakes off. It's a race car, so going to get abused quite a bit, not sure if I want to strip the entire frame and re-paint it at this point. Just kinda surprised, it appears others are not seeing the same issue with the normal powdercoat by FFR? I've always used POR-15 on my other race cars and it withstands the typical track rash very well, even better than the typical nickel plate on the formula car A-arms.
Got started on the 289, completely cleaned and metal-prepped the frame, two coats POR-15, now installing the front suspension. The manual I was sent in an email is title the mMK4 base kit Assembly Manual Rev. J and it states to "Use the mount holes that are horizontal on the top of the 2”x 3” tube, not the side vertical ones.".
The manual I received with the kit is rev. K - it states to "...use the mount holes on the side, not the top horizontal ones". So, K being most recent revision, that's what I did, but with the upper control arm mount arm in the side holes, and the short LCA's for the pin drive wheels, that gives me about 15 degrees of positive camber = not right. So, I moved the mount to the top horizontal holes and it looks better, almost zero camber, but I'm out of adjustment in the upper control arm, may have to shorten the adjustment links, but I'll see when I get it on the ground.
So, if you're building a 289 with pin drive wheels, use Rev. J version of the manual for the upper control arms.
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Front suspension installed, FFR sent me three 350# springs and one 500# spring, so sent them a message. Looks like it's all going to work out OK, I used the pin drive template from Trigo to align the pins, then ran them down with the included hex drive. Found I needed to trim the wheel studs approx. .437" to allow the rotor, hub and pin drives to screw on with some room left for the hex nut wrench. After trimming, it's perfect.
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Should have engine parts from Forte and headers from Georgie next week so can proceed on the Coupe as well.
Got the front brakes on and the axle installed. For a 3-link installation, it’s hard to beat the Moser, especially if you go with the shortened axle for pin drives. Effortless axle install.
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Power steering rack went in, it's a tight fit in the 289. I removed one of the hydraulic lines to let it slip in. The initial measurement of 53.063" is not applicable to the pin drives because of the shorter LCA's. I had to cut about an inch off the end of the tie rod threads to allow for the shorter span between tie-rod arms. Installed pedal box and steering gear and put the wheels on. Looks like a roller!
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Finished up the pedal box and accelerator pedal installation this morning, then put it on the ground for a quick alignment. Centered the rear axle with the panhard bar and checked the front caster. Minor adjustment gave me the 7 degrees recommended for power steering, then on to camber, dialed in half a degree negative, plenty of adjustment available. Finally adjusted the toe to an eight inch total in. Rolls nicely.
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Working on cockpit aluminum now. Jumped the gun a bit and installed the handbrake. I fabricated a bracket to hold the right side handbrake cable away from the RH shock absorber. Engine arrives Tuesday, so I can start planning the wiring, brake reservoir location, fuel line plumbing etc.
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Reading the assembly manual, it says "drill, silicone and install the cockpit panel..." It doesn't say, remove the drilled panel and deburr all the holes I just drilled, both sides. So, that's what I'm doing drilling hundreds of holes, cleaning and deburring all the holes. Also, I decided to shoot solid AD rivets in the panels inside the engine compartment because I have easy access with a bucking bar. I'm using the blind rivets where I can't access the back side or the rivet goes into a tube.
Some day, this will be done :)
Tomorrow, the Blueprint 302 arrives from Summit. They ship fast.Attachment 204688Attachment 204689Attachment 204690
Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jphoenix
Your 289 build looks great! I’ve got the same 289 FIA setup as yours (pin-drive, 3-link, Moser etc.) and just wanted to say to check that the wheelbase is the same side to side. I had an issue where the Moser was not parallel to the front axles centerline due to how the Moser brackets were welded on (DS rear hub was about 1/2” further back than the PS). I had to use the Breeze adjustable LCAs to correct the misalignment. Other than that, no issues.
Cheers,
Rich
Good point Rich, I'll check the wheelbase.Quote:
Originally Posted by rpard508
I measured my wheelbase, exactly 90.25" both sides, so I got lucky!
Finished the cockpit aluminum and still waiting for parts from Forte for the Coupe, so decided to rob the accessories off the 363 and install them on the 302 that arrived a couple of days ago. Struggled a bit with the spacers for the mount plates due to the reverse rotation water pump, but finally managed to find a serpentine belt that fits. I think next time (for the Coupe) I'm just ordering everything from Summit since they have good stock, anything I need and ship fast. Engine showed up within four days. Coupe has gone out back in the barn until I get the Cobra running.
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Flipped the 302 and installed a low-profile pan and dialed in the bell housing under the watchful eye of the garage supervisor. Then installed the SST midshift kit on the TKX and dropped the engine in. I'll have to move one of the tunnel braces an inch or so to clear the midshift position.
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Looking good man. I'll be right behind you.
As shown previously, I moved the shifter to the mid shift position on the TKX. After installing the engine/transmission, the typical chassis brace interference issue arises, so I cut the brace out and repositioned it aft a couple of inches and now it's good. I really like the firm crisp shifts of this transmission.
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I started to run the hard fuel lines this morning and to determine the location of the fuel pressure regulator, I first needed to locate the heater/defroster unit. I printed the template, but it did not print accurately, so I used an airplane sheetmetal repair technique of using a piece of Lexan to find the hole locations on the heater and also the outline of the cutout for the blower.
Then I located the Lexan template on the firewall, drilled the holes and cut out the rectangular blower hole. Not sure I like the little #6 sheetmetal screws that hold the blower motor to the heater core, seems kinda flimsy, so I will try to find a better way of fastening the two parts together.
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Now I can finish running the fuel supply and return lines and locate the regulator and inline filter.
Side pipes are on, engine bay wired, dashboard wired up, need to locate and plumb the remote oil filter and some other minor items, then engine start, maybe early next week.
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I got 300# springs for the rear, BUT should have been 400#. They new ones (and a FedEx label quickly)
They sent two left-hand calipers for the rear (IRS), but just got the new replacement.
Having 'fun' right now measuring the lateral runout on the discs. Started at rear and it's about 0.003" - 0.004" (generally a good spec number is about 0.002" TIR)
Also had to increase the bore of this one disc so it would fit to the hub w/o "rocking" a bit. Took about 0.006" off the I.D. Fits nicely now.
For the rear caliper alignment (the face of the 'puck' being parallel to the face of the disc surface), I'm looking at some additional shimming for how the caliper faces the plane of the disc surface so that pressure (when applied) is even.
Put the Cobra on the ground after removing the upper A arm links and shortening them per the manual dimensions. Adjusted the caster to get 7 to 8 degrees, no problem. Dialed in half degree of camber and adjusted the toe-in to about .200" total, then readjusted the camber and readjusted the toe until it all worked out. Still have 7+ degrees of caster, so I'm good with this quickie alignment.
Poured in a bunch of fluids and primed the oil pump, got pressure up and the engine started right up. Sniper 2 working fine. Just had to adjust the engine idle and the fan on/off temps. Oil leaks on the oil filter remote mount, had to reseal the fittings going into the filter mount. Also forgot to tighten the power steering fittings on the rack, otherwise no leaks noted.
Drove to the end of the driveway and back, all gears going in the correct direction, but alas no video.
Caster
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Shortened measurement
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Comparison
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I have the 2 piece spindles and the Trigo pin drives, shortened LCA's, upper mounted in the horizontal holes. Also got the missing 500# spring from FFR and installed.
Finishing up the aluminum.
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Worked on the interior while waiting for exhaust parts. Center console trimmed. thinking I may use some of the industrial velcro to fasten it in place instead of screws or rivets. My Formula Mazda uses 2" velcro to hold the radiator side pods on at the bottom - stuff is very strong. Electrical is all done, everything works, even the wipers park.
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Exhaust bits arrived in Fedex this morning so started fabricating it - not sure how it will all work once the body is on, but I can go back to side pipes if this doesn't pan out. Still thinking about best way to insulate the floorboards from the muffler heat. I have a layer of Thermo-Tec and another layer of heat reflective sheet on the bottom of the floor under the seat. Maybe wrap the muffler and pipes as well.
Sorted the support bracketry for the muffler. Got a longer extension coming for the exhaust tip to get it out further, at least past the body line.
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The mufflers I'm using are Spin-Tec 3000, 4" thick, not as thin as the 7000 series, but more quiet as a result. Pretty sure I'll have 4" clearance when all done. The lowest part of the exhaust, the muffler, hangs about an inch below the bottom of the main frame tubes.
I'm going to start on the right side, then paint and bolt it all up.
Painted the exhaust, installed some aluminum-backed fiberglass insulation with wide head pop rivets and installed the exhaust. On the ground, I have 4.5” clearance to the lowest point of the exhaust. The frame rails are at 5” front and 5.5” at the rear. I may lower it more after I get the body on.
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Ran the engine and drove it for a while, no heat coming through the floor, so that’s working - so far. There is 3/8” air gap between the muffler and the insulation. The fiberglass mat is on top of a layer of Thermotec, and there’s the Dynamat on the inside of the floorboard.
The Spin-tech 3000 mufflers are the quietest of the Spin-tech products (I think) but the exhaust is still pretty loud, not as loud as the side pipes and definitely a lower rumble as well, deep throaty sound.
Cool exhaust idea. Will reduce, if not eliminate, leg burns. I already got a warning on that one. Not a burn, but those side pipes get very warm. Where's Bonney Lake? I lived in the Seattle area long ago. Still have family there. Love those mountains.
Bonney Lake is south of Seattle, directly east of Tacoma.Quote:
Originally Posted by FRM
I'm pleasantly surprised at how the layers of insulation keeps the heat off the floorboard - and surprised again that I have one seat mounting bolt buried under the muffler and all that insulation that I can't reach - not smart! I know what I'll be doing this morning :(
I'll bet you have a spectacular view of Mt. Rainier on clear days. Bummer on the seat mounting bolt. I had several challenges where I decided the location of things only to find out later that I had to reconsider. I tried to drill as few holes in the frame that I found out I didn't need later. Live and learn.
Yes, Rainier is only 18 miles away as the crow flies. Today is another nice fall day and I got the body out of the barn, going to get ready for first fit try - probably take a few iterations to get everything trimmed.
I presume I need to fit the body without the seats installed? Seems like they will be in the way of fitting the rear bulkhead?
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Yeah, I learned not to pre-drill rivet holes in the aluminum until I verified I could get a drill and rivet gun in that location, only had to learn that lesson three times.Quote:
Originally Posted by FRM
I didn't bolt the seats down until near the end. I left them in loose and they seemed to collect all kinds of dust and metal shavings and fiberglass shavings but I had the basic low back seats and I don't think they would impact fitting the body. My body when it went on was slightly in back of the rear bulkhead and shoving and pushing moved it forward into place.
Yes, I plan to leave them out until all the grinding and sanding is done. I've read that we typically must trim firewall, the rear bulkhead, both rear trunk sidewalls and the trunk floor flange - was that your experience as well? Did you leave the dash in? I may remove mine anyhow because I don't like the FFR padding, I'll likely change to a very thin padding and leather-like vinyl.Quote:
Originally Posted by FRM
I did not trim the firewall and I left the dash in. I trimmed quite a bit from the rear trunk sidewalls and put bulb seal on those, but not across the back cockpit bulkhead. No bulb seal on the rear bulkhead. I also trimmed the rear most trunk floor flange, probably more than I should have, but that was a sticking point for getting the body to settle down. I also had to trim off fiberglass around the fuel tank. For my dash I did not use the FFR supplied padded stuff, but rather this vinyl product https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. top to bottom it fit well and was just a small bit short left to right, but that part ends up being bent back and tucked out of sight. I had all my gauges in place and wired before the body went on too.
Good info, thanks. I like that vinyl.
Dropped the body on today. Fits pretty good, have the typical trimming and adjustments.
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The manual shows a front body mounting bracket that goes from the frame mount to the turn signal cutout. I don’t have that bracket - is it used on the 289?
Jim
The mounts shown in the manual I did not find in my kit either but there is a cross brace shown in the 289 supplement that goes below the radiator to the body.
Steve