The Brew City Cobra - 427W / IRS - Trans Cover Leather and Custom Shifter Install

I’ve been meaning to kick this off for a while – no better time than the present I suppose. I’m a bit behind but will try to put together a few posts to get me up to date.

Step one, goals. The major plan is to build a Cobra emphasizing a few points:

1) A summer cruiser that I can drive to and from work during the (too-short) Wisconsin summer;
2) Hopefully clean enough to bring to a show or two and not be too embarrassed to open the hood; and
3) Be able to bring it to 3 or 4 track days a year.

So with build goals in mind, the build specs are as follows:

Complete Kit Specs:
- Powder Coated Chassis
- Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
- Body Cutouts
- Black Vinyl Roadster Seats
- Power Steering Kit
- Gauge Delete
- Exhaust Delete
- Blank Dash
- IRS

FFR Options:
- [[17" Halibrand (with 10.5" rears)]] - NOW 18" Halibrand Wheels
- Chrome Drive and Passenger roll bars
- Willwood Front and Rear Brakes
- Front and Rear Sway bars

Drivetrain (from Forte):
- [[427W w/ Dart Block]] - NOW 427W w/ Ford BOSS Block
- TKX Trans w/ 2.87 First and 0.81 5th.
- Carbureted
- Forte Hydraulic Clutch Kit
- Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage
- Quicktime Bell Housing
- [[Midshift Kit]] - NOW Traditional shift position.
- 3.55:1 Torsen IRS Rear End

Other Scheduled Options/Mods:
- Wind Wings
- Breeze Radiator Shroud
- Gas-N Side Pipes
- Driveshaft Loop
- Dropped Trunk Floor
- Footbox Air Vents
- Relocated Battery (Breeze)
- Russ Thompson Turn Signal Kit
- Detachable Steering Wheel
- Speedhut Gauges (w/ Legacy shift-light Tach)

I’m sure some mods and other features will be added/removed as time goes on.

But with the initials set, the first step of this odyssey is to get the garage ready to go - namely - Heat!

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Looks like a fun build. You've done your homework on that engine/trans/diff ratio combination? That's a lot of engine for a 3.55 and .81 5th. You're going to see very short gears and high RPM at cruise IMO. If you're positive you want that 5th ratio, maybe go to a 3.31 diff? Or if you want the best of both worlds, a T-56 with .80 5th and .63 6th. Would fit with your IRS Roadster.

My earlier cars were similar to your indicated configuration.

427w 540hp/530tqe, TKO-600 .064 mid shift, 3.27 gears in the T-Bird 8.8. 275/315 17s, 780cfm ProSystems double pumper, no choke.

My current Challenge Car build will have the same motor and trans unless I change to the TKX or T56. Forte built an aluminum, Torsen 3.31 diff. BTW the new 2015 Super 8.8 uses 3.31 not 3.27 gears, not a big change.

55k miles on first car 10k on second. Lots of city, country roads, highways, cross country, rain, hail, sleet & snow. About a dozen track events at Gingerman, Grattan, and VIR-South Track. I always drive to the track, got trailered home once.

I like the .64 OD, cruises better, 2,200 @ 80. 4th gear on the track and just spin it, good for 140 easy. Ran 11.8/120 qtr. On the indicated tracks I ran all in 3rd & 4th but in one turn at Grattan I grabbed 2nd, pivoted and then ran up the climbing S. Not the best way but was great fun. First gear roll-on at 2,500 lit up the tires and rev limiter.

If you are considering track use, HPDE assumed, a full width bar and the forward diagonal to the passenger side frame tube may make the track official happy. I find the full width bar affords a better rearward view as well. SVT, Olthoff, Porsche officials passed my cars through tech w/o issues with the full width bars. Only the Miata group declined entrance but I think this was more due to a disparity in power rather than the roll bar height.

Enjoy your build and plans. Keep those cards, letters and questions coming.

Jim

Hello BrewCity. Welcome! Looks like you've done your homework to put your options together (I don't have any comments on your gear ratio--I'll leave that to the experts). Only long after I ordered my kit did I become aware of being able to delete options. Did F5 offer you a credit for the deletions? If so, that's pretty cool. If I had known, I would have also deleted the F5 exhaust in favor of ordering from a forum vendor.

Glad you were able to put in garage heat. My wife and I recently built a house a few years ago, and I was able to finagle a gas heater for the garage. Makes a world of difference for the cold winters here in Spokane--though not as cold as Wisconsin...burrrrr!!

Again, welcome to the Roadster build forum! Glad to see you kicking off your project.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Looks like a fun build. You've done your homework on that engine/trans/diff ratio combination? That's a lot of engine for a 3.55 and .81 5th. You're going to see very short gears and high RPM at cruise IMO. If you're positive you want that 5th ratio, maybe go to a 3.31 diff? Or if you want the best of both worlds, a T-56 with .80 5th and .63 6th. Would fit with your IRS Roadster.

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In short - not yet. I am still in the process of nailing down the exact transmission specs. The ones I listed on my spec list were those originally given to me by Mike. That said, the 3.55 rear diff is already purchased and prepped so I'd hope to avoid any changes on that end.

I was playing around with the Tremec RPM calculator in view of everybody's comments here and it looks like I would be running a bit over 3,000-ish RPM for highway cruising (80 MPH). I'm hoping to drive this thing to the track and to shows so that probably isn't acceptable. Looks like the 0.68 5th would produce a much more acceptable 2500 RPM for 80 MPH.

Edward, you said that I'd have short shifts all around with this setup. If I went with the 0.68 5th - that seems like it would solve the highway/cruising problem but do you think the TKX will be too steep all around with a 3.55?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jim1855

My earlier cars were similar to your indicated configuration.

427w 540hp/530tqe, TKO-600 .064 mid shift, 3.27 gears in the T-Bird 8.8. 275/315 17s, 780cfm ProSystems double pumper, no choke.

My current Challenge Car build will have the same motor and trans unless I change to the TKX or T56. Forte built an aluminum, Torsen 3.31 diff. BTW the new 2015 Super 8.8 uses 3.31 not 3.27 gears, not a big change.

55k miles on first car 10k on second. Lots of city, country roads, highways, cross country, rain, hail, sleet & snow. About a dozen track events at Gingerman, Grattan, and VIR-South Track. I always drive to the track, got trailered home once.

I like the .64 OD, cruises better, 2,200 @ 80. 4th gear on the track and just spin it, good for 140 easy. Ran 11.8/120 qtr. On the indicated tracks I ran all in 3rd & 4th but in one turn at Grattan I grabbed 2nd, pivoted and then ran up the climbing S. Not the best way but was great fun. First gear roll-on at 2,500 lit up the tires and rev limiter.

If you are considering track use, HPDE assumed, a full width bar and the forward diagonal to the passenger side frame tube may make the track official happy. I find the full width bar affords a better rearward view as well. SVT, Olthoff, Porsche officials passed my cars through tech w/o issues with the full width bars. Only the Miata group declined entrance but I think this was more due to a disparity in power rather than the roll bar height.

Enjoy your build and plans. Keep those cards, letters and questions coming.

Jim

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Appreciate the info. Sounds like I may be a bit steep on my diff ratio (that has already been installed) but I did pick the 3.55 to make sure I could always swap in new gears if absolutely needed. Always good to hear other people are tracking these things as well. And yes, HPDE/ is the goal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra

In short - not yet. I am still in the process of nailing down the exact transmission specs. The ones I listed on my spec list were those originally given to me by Mike. That said, the 3.55 rear diff is already purchased and prepped so I'd hope to avoid any changes on that end.

I was playing around with the Tremec RPM calculator in view of everybody's comments here and it looks like I would be running a bit over 3,000-ish RPM for highway cruising (80 MPH). I'm hoping to drive this thing to the track and to shows so that probably isn't acceptable. Looks like the 0.68 5th would produce a much more acceptable 2500 RPM for 80 MPH.

Edward, you said that I'd have short shifts all around with this setup. If I went with the 0.68 5th - that seems like it would solve the highway/cruising problem but do you think the TKX will be too steep all around with a 3.55?

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The 0.68 5th is the main point IMO. With the numbers you can see why I suggested it. Been there done that and 0.81 5th isn't ideal for cruising. You have plenty of engine and could handle the 3.31 diff. But since you already have the 3.55 it's fine. Probably the most common and for good reason. Yes, it will shift a bit short but that's not unusual with these cars. You can change it down the road if you want. But I suspect you'll get used to it and it will be fine.

Catch-up #1 – Delivery / Inventory / IRS Prep

So to catch up on a few items, my build has been a bit “out of order” as COVID has caused my backorder list to be a bit longer than what I assume is normal. Understandable given the times but the vast majority of the missing parts were suspension and brake related so it made it a bit difficult to get started on the chassis items right away. That said, FFR was very forthcoming with information during the entire process so I thank them for that!

So first up was getting everything into the garage, organized, and inventoried. Pretty standard fare.

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With the panels removed and marked, the first actual building task was to prepare the IRS knuckles and differential from a Mustang 3.55 Torsen rear end I had purchased ahead of time.

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Like many before, the idea of cutting off a large chunk of my newly acquired IRS parts was a bit daunting. I was a bit frustrated that the cutting line (e.g., right in front of the rear threaded hole) caused the cut itself to pass through one or the threaded apertures to produce a “scar” on the newly formed cut surface. Nothing I can do about it now (I don’t want to remove that much material to remove it) but I guess for future reference cutting behind that hole would have been better aesthetically. Live and learn.

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Once the knuckles and differential were prepped, my father helped by spraying the aluminum portions in clear coat and the steel in black epoxy. I was very happy with the end results.

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Don't loose any sleep over that cut, you will never see that once the wheel is on the car.

Nice progress!

Update #2 – Front Suspension

So apparently sometimes good things come in very large packages. About a month and a half after ordering the kit I was graced by an entire pallet of parts – including the much-needed suspension elements, rims, engine mounts and the like. The Wilwood brake kit also arrive around the same time. Now we are cookin!

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With the suspension and brake parts in hand – it was finally time to start getting the chassis put together. But first, obligatory Wilwood safety wire photos:

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For the most part, the suspension assembly was pretty straight forward. I ended up going with the Howe ball joints which are incredibly precise and smooth. Probably more than what I needed – but this car will be seeing the track so I figured that excuse was good enough to pop for the extra bucks.

The only major setback was a result of my own error where I galled one of the bolts connecting the upper control arms to the chassis. Instead of using a screwdriver to hold the nut in place I had used a thin sheet of sheetmetal. Bad Idea. Apparently the sheetmetal was a bit too thick as it ultimately against the bolt causing the threads to gall and made it an absolute pain to pull back apart. Lesson learned.

Attachment 145521

FFR was nice enough to send me a new one and we were ultimately able to get the front suspension in place – which begs the question – can somebody please confirm that I got the upper control arms install properly? Everything look OK?

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Unfortunately the power steering rack isn’t in yet so I can’t dig into that yet but we did have the front roll bar so we installed that all at once.

Anyways – good progress and exciting to see some actual equipment attached to the chassis. IRS update to follow shortly.

Since you're running power steering, you may want to think about trimming the rear UCA sleeves. See: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ter-amp-Camber

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JB in NOVA

Since you're running power steering, you may want to think about trimming the rear UCA sleeves. See: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ter-amp-Camber

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Agreed, I was planning on doing that but a band-saw breakage put that on hold for now. Hopefully it can be accomplished without having to pull too much of what I've already assembled apart.

Aaaanndd. Setback #2. While preparing the gas tank I cracked the white bushing that the tank vent screws into (below). Any idea if this is a standard Ford part I can order or am I stuck going back to FFR for another one?

I had considered trying to fix it since the crack does not extend along the entire length of the part with super glue but I'm hesitant to mess with anything "gas tank" related.

Thoughts?

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Or buy an upgraded part from Breeze and have it in a couple days. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...eck-valve-kit/. IMO, don't try to fix it. Gas fumes won't be friendly to the repair or you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Or buy an upgraded part from Breeze and have it in a couple days. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...eck-valve-kit/. IMO, don't try to fix it. Gas fumes won't be friendly to the repair or you.

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Sold! Exactly what I was looking for. Not sure I would have been able to sleep soundly if I was on the hook for repairing it.

The white plastic bushing should have been put in the tank first, then the vent fixture.
It looks like you tried to put them in the tank after put together.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Railroad

The white plastic bushing should have been put in the tank first, then the vent fixture.
It looks like you tried to put them in the tank after put together.

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Unfortunately you hit the nail on the head. The instructions had said to screw the brass vent into the white piece using a vise and then putting the resulting assembly in the tank. I was just a bit over-zealous with how far I screwed it down and it cracked.

Well the strange situations keep on coming. I was getting ready to mount the gas tank when I noticed that the mounting brackets don't seem right. They both hit the frame before they come anywhere near the second mounting point and would require significant bending to fit. The second and third photos I have below are me pushing the brackets until they interfere with the frame.

Can anybody confirm that I received the wrong part? Am I missing something?

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Those brackets are correct, yep you bend them around the bottom of tank and tighten them down. I ran a little longer bolt on one side to make it easier to capture the bracket and nut.

Exactly what Fman said. Mine were the same way and I just bent them as I installed it. I ended up buying a longer bolt for one side as well as the one that came with the kit was too short. I recommend getting a socket head cap screw because you can't get a wrench into the area to tighten the bolt, but you can get an allen wrench into the area.

X3. Bend 'em. Went through that on my truck build a few weeks ago. Out of the box they hit the frame just like yours. Haven't seen that before. Must be a new vendor or whatever. But no big deal.

Thanks guys - much appreciated. Bending shouldn't be that big a deal, just wanted to make sure before I bent something beyond recognition in case I had to go back to FFR.

Had a pretty productive weekend. My father and I were able to complete the front and rear brake lines all in stainless. We actually made it a bit bigger of a job than originally needed as we first ran the car in the coated steel lines that came with the kit to work out the pathways and any other gremlins and then again in stainless once all the bugs had been worked out.

Hopefully filling and bleeding to follow shortly.

A few photos of our layout:

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Very nice work, those stainless lines look great.

So I have a pair of questions for the group to help finish up a few nagging projects I have outstanding. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1) I purchased a used rear clip for my IRS setup. I did some digging and I'm 90% sure it is from an automatic Performance Pack Mustang (the final product is a 3.55 Torsen, photo of the identifying label is below) so the "clear" adapter plate should be appropriate. However, since I'm not 100% sure (and so I can avoid any undue damage) is there anything I should be looking out for while installing the plate to make sure I'm using the correct one? I'd hate to strip some threads or bottom out a bolt because I have the wrong plate and mistakenly thought my diff was out of an automatic.

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2) My plan is to rivet the brake and gas lines to the 4" tubes once I've finalized everything - but given the location of those mounts I'm a bit concerned about corrosion since i've now drilled holes into the 4" tubes and they are exposed below the car. Is there anything people are doing to help minimize corrosion in those areas? I was thinking possibly stainless rivets? Is some kind of sealer necessary?

The "3L55" number positively confirms it's a 3.55. Been there done that. As for confirming it's a Torsen, my 3.73 Torsen in the Coupe is marked GR3W 4000 BA. So similar to your part number but not sure can assume anything. Quick search and can't find the part number for either. Bottom line, if it's from an '18 or newer Mustang with a Performance Pack, almost for sure Torsen. If nothing else, you'll probably be able to tell when you start driving it. They do like to clack around a bit. :p

As for the driveshaft adapter plate, pretty sure if you have the wrong one the holes won't even line up. Been there and done that too. Just watch the length on the screws. The ones FF supplied for my Roadster bottomed out before tighening all the way. Several got into trouble with that. The ones they provided for my Coupe only engaged about half the threads. Didn't like that either. I shortened longer ones to use the maximum thread without bottoming out.

As for the holes in your frame, personally I wouldn't worry about it. Stainless rivets wouldn't hurt anything, but not sure it's necessary. For mine, I tapped the holes and used SS button head screws. Nothing magical about that either. Just my preference. I did use a little Loctite on the threads, so perhaps provides a little sealing action. My take on this subject is it's not going to be a concern for the life of the vehicle. Hundreds of places the frame is drilled for rivets (or screws) without any added protection.

If the main housing of the diff is aluminum its from an auto, if its cast iron its from a manual, unless its a PP. What year did it come from?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoooper

If the main housing of the diff is aluminum its from an auto, if its cast iron its from a manual, unless its a PP. What year did it come from?

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According to the seller it is from a PP, 2018+ generation. The housing is Iron.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edwardb

The "3L55" number positively confirms it's a 3.55. Been there done that. As for confirming it's a Torsen, my 3.73 Torsen in the Coupe is marked GR3W 4000 BA. So similar to your part number but not sure can assume anything. Quick search and can't find the part number for either. Bottom line, if it's from an '18 or newer Mustang with a Performance Pack, almost for sure Torsen. If nothing else, you'll probably be able to tell when you start driving it. They do like to clack around a bit. :p

As for the driveshaft adapter plate, pretty sure if you have the wrong one the holes won't even line up. Been there and done that too. Just watch the length on the screws. The ones FF supplied for my Roadster bottomed out before tighening all the way. Several got into trouble with that. The ones they provided for my Coupe only engaged about half the threads. Didn't like that either. I shortened longer ones to use the maximum thread without bottoming out.

As for the holes in your frame, personally I wouldn't worry about it. Stainless rivets wouldn't hurt anything, but not sure it's necessary. For mine, I tapped the holes and used SS button head screws. Nothing magical about that either. Just my preference. I did use a little Loctite on the threads, so perhaps provides a little sealing action. My take on this subject is it's not going to be a concern for the life of the vehicle. Hundreds of places the frame is drilled for rivets (or screws) without any added protection.

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Thanks for the input on the plate side. I'll make sure to keep an eye out for how long those bolts run (need to run a tap through them as well).

As for the rivets, just another classic example of having the time to overthink everything I suppose. I'll have to consider the drill/tap method as well. May look a bit better with the size of the holes in those insulated hold-downs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra

According to the seller it is from a PP, 2018+ generation. The housing is Iron.

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Yeah if thats the case it doesnt really tell you much. 2018+ a PP could be automatic and would have the cast iron diff.

So big news this week was a minor change on the build spec - I ended up sending back the 17" rims I had originally ordered with the Kit and instead ordered a set of 18" halibrands offered by FFR.

The reason basically came down to tire availability. I wanted to be able to autocross from time to time (and potentially time attack some day) and wasn't too keen on being sent up to the top unlimited classes if I did. For all the research I had done before purchasing the kit I didn't really dig too deep into what tire options would be available (a mistake) and more specifically failed to appreciate that the TOYO R88Rs were 100tw and basically the only performance tire available.

That said, the 18's should give me at least a few options for 200tw and the R888R's will still be an option. Lesson learned.

CAM-S or Bust!

Nice garage. Hope you got heat. Here in Idaho that's an issue too. Fun build thread.

Another update from the garage. I've been in and out of town the last few weeks so time in the garage has been a bit limited. That said, the time I have been able to spend has been spent getting the panels drilled and placed - and drilled - and drilled - and drilled. So far I have the front (engine compartment) and cockpit panels in place and will be sending the front panels off for powder coating as soon as I'm somewhat comfortable that no more major holes or adjustments are needed. A few photos on the panels below:

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I have to admit that I'm very impressed with how well the panels fit and how little modification was needed to get everything in place. Cudos to FFR.

That said, I did have a quick question/concern I was wondering what the forum thought. My two F-panels have an awfully shallow bend on the flange to which the elephant ears are attached (photos below). I was wondering if I should increase that bend a bit before getting the panels powder coated as I don't want to damage the coating by altering the panels too much after they are finished. If so, does anybody have an idea as to what angle that bend typically is?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra

Another update from the garage. I've been in and out of town the last few weeks so time in the garage has been a bit limited. That said, the time I have been able to spend has been spent getting the panels drilled and placed - and drilled - and drilled - and drilled. So far I have the front (engine compartment) and cockpit panels in place and will be sending the front panels off for powder coating as soon as I'm somewhat comfortable that no more major holes or adjustments are needed. A few photos on the panels below:

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I have to admit that I'm very impressed with how well the panels fit and how little modification was needed to get everything in place. Cudos to FFR.

That said, I did have a quick question/concern I was wondering what the forum thought. My two F-panels have an awfully shallow bend on the flange to which the elephant ears are attached (photos below). I was wondering if I should increase that bend a bit before getting the panels powder coated as I don't want to damage the coating by altering the panels too much after they are finished. If so, does anybody have an idea as to what angle that bend typically is?

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you could always do a quick fit of the body to see how far off you might be. I used spray on bed liner and had to bend things a bit without any flaking of the paint. I'm sure the PC will be much more durable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by egchewy79

you could always do a quick fit of the body to see how far off you might be. I used spray on bed liner and had to bend things a bit without any flaking of the paint. I'm sure the PC will be much more durable.

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Good point, I suppose I can give that a try. I figure so long as I'm close now that should be good enough to get the panels coated - then some small adjustments can be made later for final assembly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra

That said, I did have a quick question/concern I was wondering what the forum thought. My two F-panels have an awfully shallow bend on the flange to which the elephant ears are attached (photos below). I was wondering if I should increase that bend a bit before getting the panels powder coated as I don't want to damage the coating by altering the panels too much after they are finished. If so, does anybody have an idea as to what angle that bend typically is?

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That bend is maybe slightly soft. But if so, not much. You won't be able to easily adjust the bend on the F-panel after it's attached. If necessary, you can add a very light bend on the front of the splash guard. Without going crazy, slight bends can be added or adjusted on PC'd parts. Do it all the time. But you won't know anything about that splash guard fit until you have the body mounted into it's final location. They typically take some tweaking and or trimming to get just right. Your experience may vary. Personally, I'd wait until then to do much more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edwardb

That bend is maybe slightly soft. But if so, not much. You won't be able to easily adjust the bend on the F-panel after it's attached. If necessary, you can add a very light bend on the front of the splash guard. Without going crazy, slight bends can be added or adjusted on PC'd parts. Do it all the time. But you won't know anything about that splash guard fit until you have the body mounted into it's final location. They typically take some tweaking and or trimming to get just right. Your experience may vary. Personally, I'd wait until then to do much more.

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That is reassuring to hear. I thought they looked shallow but had no real point of reference aside from some photos on here. If that is the case I'll probably just let them be for now, get them powder coated as is, and worry about making any changes in final fitment.

Thanks!

So garage time was a bit split over the past few weekends as my father and I are attempting to simultaneously replace the water pump on the 944 to get it ready for track duty and keep progress going on the Roadster. It is quite the juxtaposition to switch from the Roadster, where everything is clean – new – and I have ample clearance to work on things, to the 944 which is dirty – old – and absolutely no clearance anywhere.

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That said, on the Roadster front I was able to finally get the emergency brake system installed and finalized. Of all the systems I’ve encountered so far, this is by far the least – shall I say – refined of those provided by FFR. I ended up making two (relatively standard) changes. The first was to use Wilwood brake cables, and the second was to incorporate the “pulley-mod” so I could run the cables over the 4” tube instead of under.

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I had contemplated also extending the bottom leg of the e-brake handle but ultimately decided against it as the current setup appears to work fine and I don’t have immediate access to a welder (and would have to re-paint the handle even if I did). The downside is that the cable bracket does “rub” against the bottom of the handle mount but I think I can live with it for now.

As for mounting the handle itself, I followed the general consensus of the board and flipped around the bolts/mounting order to give as much clearance from the transmission tunnel as possible and did a little trimming to the aluminum. One other change I did was to adjust the angle of the brackets (open up the rear bracket and close up the front bracket) so that the handle itself is slightly tilted away from the tunnel. This change seemed to provide the greatest gains on the clearance front so I kept it. With the handle disengaged you can’t really tell but it does cause the handle to travel a bit into the passenger area when it is engaged. I figured that shouldn’t be too much of an issue and was worth the trade-off so I could keep the aluminum trimming to a minimum.

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I was also able to finally get the gas tank installed. Again, this was mostly standard with the only major changes being 1) replacing the vent with an upgraded unit from Breeze (I accidentally broke the stock vent provided by FFR), and replacing the stock pickup for an in-tank pump (Holley EFI) I got from Forte’s.

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Brew..... I just LOVE your 944. My older brother had a 944 ( Champagne color) when I was a teenager and I was just in love with it and anything Porsche ( actually to this day if I could find a good quality 928 I would snatch it up). Back to the Roadster. I have really enjoyed catching up on your build thread. Great job man!!!! Keep it up!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra

That said, on the Roadster front I was able to finally get the emergency brake system installed and finalized. Of all the systems I’ve encountered so far, this is by far the least – shall I say – refined of those provided by FFR. I ended up making two (relatively standard) changes. The first was to use Wilwood brake cables, and the second was to incorporate the “pulley-mod” so I could run the cables over the 4” tube instead of under.

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Hi BrewCity. Did you have to modify the Wilwood cables you used, or did they fit well out of the box? Also, where did you source them?

Thanks for posting your e-brake pictures. I will be tackling this soon. I also did the Edwardb pulley mod, and from your pictures now see I probably should have left my transmission tunnel panels just Cleco'd in place until I have the e-brake installed.