FLFrank's '35 Hot Rod Truck Build

Delivery expected in the 2nd half of July :D

BluePrint Ford 306, EFI, automatic trans
Powdercoat frame, satin black
7S 28 spline 38.50" driveshaft
Black leather faced bench seat upgrade
3-Link rear suspension
Platinum 6 gauge set
Sound insulation kit + Dynamat
Chrome tilt steering column
EFI in-tank fuel system
Electric steering
Air conditioning
Wood bed kit
Aluminum interior door handles
8.8 rear axle housing w/TOP 3-Link
HR 11.65" rear brakes
Second brake reservoir
Diamond-plate firewall
Open engine compartment
Anti-lock brake system?
Wheels: Amer. Racing Authentic Hot Rod Sport Muscle Nitro 5?
Paint: Probably metallic red (like the SMG truck)

IMO you should delete the seat track. You cannot move the seat forward or back. It only fits in one location.

Wallace18, thanks for the heads up! I didn't consider that; I guess I'll take that off the order. I was thinking of different sized drivers, possible future owners. I sat in the hot rod at the build school but couldn't get a feel for pedal operation and seat placement. I guess I'll figure it out when the time comes.

Side note...I see you're in Alachua. I have a Hunter 356, which is/was built in Alachua...Do you happen to work at Marlow-Hunter?

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Originally Posted by FLFrank35

Wallace18, thanks for the heads up! I didn't consider that; I guess I'll take that off the order. I was thinking of different sized drivers, possible future owners. I sat in the hot rod at the build school but couldn't get a feel for pedal operation and seat placement. I guess I'll figure it out when the time comes.

Side note...I see you're in Alachua. I have a Hunter 356, which is/was built in Alachua...Do you happen to work at Marlow-Hunter?

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No I am retired from GRU. Here is my truck build thread. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Hot-Rod-Pickup

Agree on delete seat track. With seat all the way back, it would still be tight for a child.
Ralph

Finally got my truck last Thurs (Aug 1). Did inventory in 3 days; found a few missing parts, but what took the most time was trying to figure out what some parts were...although I learned a lot about the parts. Also, got the engine and trans.

Took some of the bare-metal parts to the powder coater today...said they should be ready in a day or two.

Any suggestions on were to get headers for the BluePrint Ford EFI 306 (w e-power assist steering) to mate with the FFR exhaust pipes??

Attachment 111898Attachment 111899
Sorry, would have posted more photos but some are turned 90 degrees and I can't figure out how to re-orientate them.

Summit is a good place for headers.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b.../model/mustang

I assume the FL in FLFrank is because you’re in Florida. I’m located just north of Tampa. If you’re close, I can offer help turning wrenches. I’m planning on getting my own kit, but probably a couple years out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FLFrank35

Finally got my truck last Thurs (Aug 1). Did inventory in 3 days; found a few missing parts, but what took the most time was trying to figure out what some parts were...although I learned a lot about the parts. Also, got the engine and trans.

Took some of the bare-metal parts to the powder coater today...said they should be ready in a day or two.

Any suggestions on were to get headers for the BluePrint Ford EFI 306 (w e-power assist steering) to mate with the FFR exhaust pipes??

Attachment 111898Attachment 111899
Sorry, would have posted more photos but some are turned 90 degrees and I can't figure out how to re-orientate them.

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I had some pictures with same issue. You can open them in paint program, rotate and save. Good luck with your truck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Salty Chief 35

I assume the FL in FLFrank is because you’re in Florida. I’m located just north of Tampa. If you’re close, I can offer help turning wrenches. I’m planning on getting my own kit, but probably a couple years out.

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Thanks for the offer. I’m over on the east coast near Melbourne. If you’re ever in the area, stop by and check it out.
It took me a couple years from considering building my own truck to ordering the kit.

Cheers,
Frank

Hi Frank,
I'm in Port St Lucie with my truck. Mechanical done, just started bodywork phase.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DamnYankee

Hi Frank,
I'm in Port St Lucie with my truck. Mechanical done, just started bodywork phase.

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You’re a little over an hour away...I’ll have to stop by when I get a chance (if that’s ok).

Yup anytime !

Got the control arms powder coated and assembled...



Attachment 112391

Hey Frank, I'm also in FL - Fort Lauderdale; My kit is due to be shipped next week; similar to yours; other than Blueprint 346 (Carb). manual, fenders etc, Wilewoods, Moser rear end, 18' wires by Wheelsmith.
Be interesting to compare note as we progress.

Also wondering about headers

Good luck.

Sounds good! These headers from Summit were recommended to me...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bbk-15150/

Following!!! Looking forward to seeing the build!!

Got the shocks assembled. One question for anyone out there...The manual says the front shocks are supposed to be 2.5" shorter than the rear, but mine are all the same length. Did I get the wrong shocks or am I supposed to adjust them to the proper lengths? Thanks in advance!
Attachment 113435

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FLFrank35

Got the shocks assembled. One question for anyone out there...The manual says the front shocks are supposed to be 2.5" shorter than the rear, but mine are all the same length. Did I get the wrong shocks or am I supposed to adjust them to the proper lengths? Thanks in advance!
Attachment 113435

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I had the exact same question, I never received an answer.

Zach

Dan Golub from FFR says the truck uses all 4 same size shocks.

Next question...
In attaching the 3-link suspension, the manual says attach the lower control arms to the center (out of 3) hole on the frame. I have 4 holes...Which one? Either of the center holes? Depending which ride height I want?

Attachment 113731 Attachment 113732

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FLFrank35

Dan Golub from FFR says the truck uses all 4 same size shocks.

Next question...
In attaching the 3-link suspension, the manual says attach the lower control arms to the center (out of 3) hole on the frame. I have 4 holes...Which one? Either of the center holes? Depending which ride height I want?

Attachment 113731 Attachment 113732

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Yes, just make sure your pinion angle is correct once you are finished before you drive it.

Ok, thanks for the advice! I did eventually notice that the two bottom holes are too small for the bolts, so that narrows it down the the two top holes. I chose the lower one to raise the ride height.

I had a hell of a time getting the control arm eye-bolts and spacers installed in the frame brackets...it's a VERY tight fit. Still have to install the shocks...Any suggestions on how to make this easier?

Thanks!

I made a spreader spacer tool out of some threaded rod and nuts and bolts to force the ears out if they were too tight. Had to use them in multiple places on the build: front suspension and rear.
You have the newer frame, I have the early frame, so I had to follow your first picture.
Ralph

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FLFrank35

Ok, thanks for the advice! I did eventually notice that the two bottom holes are too small for the bolts, so that narrows it down the the two top holes. I chose the lower one to raise the ride height.

I had a hell of a time getting the control arm eye-bolts and spacers installed in the frame brackets...it's a VERY tight fit. Still have to install the shocks...Any suggestions on how to make this easier?

Thanks!

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You can also use a large crescent wrench to spread the ears slightly.

Thanks for the advice guys!!

In August I got the rear installed; still waiting for the calipers.
The rear cover is leaking. I torqued the bolts like the manual says but I may have to call Moser and get a new gasket:confused:

In September and into October I painted and built the front calipers, and got most of the front-end installed, including the rack.

I am currently work on applying a diamond-plate layer to the firewall and installing that.

Attachment 116361 Attachment 116363 Attachment 116362
Attachment 116367 Attachment 116368 Attachment 116366
Attachment 116364 Attachment 116365
Attachment 116358 Attachment 116360

The last Moser I installed leaked there also. They have a production problem IMO. I had to replace the rear gasket.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wallace18

The last Moser I installed leaked there also. They have a production problem IMO. I had to replace the rear gasket.

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I was afraid of that. I guess I’ll call Moser.
Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wallace18

The last Moser I installed leaked there also. They have a production problem IMO. I had to replace the rear gasket.

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I have yet to fill my Moser rear end, what about adding some gasket sealant to the gasket?

Gary

Talked to Shane at Moser...he said it's possible the cover bolts are too short, or the chrome is not allowing a good seal. May have to grind chrome off of the flange so the gasket can seal properly. He's sending a new gasket...I'll post when I figure it out.

I had a leak there too. I scraped away the old gasket and used just sealer. Ok now.

Mine leaks too.

Mine leaked also. Removed and re-sealed.
Ralph

For those interested, I finally solved the axle leak issue...

First, I replaced the original gasket/sealer with the replacement sent from Moser, and as I was scraping off the gasket and sealer I noticed some over-spray of the black paint. This is the original black paint applied at the factory. It appeared that the paint over-spray (or powder coat) was built up enough that it prevented the cover's flange from properly mating with the axle housing causing the initial leak.

You can see some on the paint that caused the problem along the edge between the 5 and 6 o'clock positions...
Attachment 118554

So I sanded the paint off of the axle housing down to bare metal and I installed the replacement gasket After I tighten the bolts to the minimum torque (25 fl/lbs as stated in the FFR manual) I noticed that the gasket and some sealer squeezed out from the cover, torn near the bolts. My mechanic said that usually happens if the the bolts get over-torqued and the cover's flange gets distorted, which makes sense since the 2 pieces could not form a tight fit and as the bolts were tightened they deformed the cover's flange enough to tear the gasket and push it out along with the sealer.

My mechanic hammered the cover's flange at the bolt-holes so the entire flange was flat. I applied a new gasket and sealer and torqued the bolts to the minimum 25 fl/lbs. Between the smooth and level surfaces it seems that I finally have a tight seal and stopped the leak.

Hope this helps others.

Testing Frank's image...:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1575591261

:)

Got the firewall, wheels/tires, brakes and steering done. Engine/trans going in this coming weekend :D

Looking Good!:cool:

Installed the engine yesterday. It started out straight-forward then we had a little problem with the transmission mount bracket...there is no guidance as to which way to install it. Curve forward, backside, wing-tabs up, down, forward slot, rear slot:confused:. The transmission wouldn't really fit either; the rear part of the trans oil pan was hitting the frame/brackets and we couldn't move the engine any farther forward. So we tried flipping the bracket over so it supported the trans spline higher (above the frame bracket) and it worked. I guess it's universal, so you install it whichever way works for your application.

What wheels are those? I like the look!

Thanks, I love them! Rocket Racing Booster Chrome Wheels from Summit. My wife picked them out and they look great. Solid, shiny wheels. And not a bad price...$320 for the 18" (front) and $380 for the 20" (rear).

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPM-R14-886547
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPM-R14-2106555