John's EZ36R H6 818R Build

It's about time I started my build thread. I've been following the 818 since its beginning, waiting patiently to pull the trigger and start my next project. From the first time I saw Wayne's thread on putting in an H6, I was sold. Love the idea of a naturally aspirated torquey motor, and then there is the exhaust note. I do a number of open track events each year and my current track / street car takes a lot of abuse for it. The 818 checked all the right boxes for me as a track car.

• Light weight
• Easy to work on
• Inexpensive parts
• Able to be built in my garage

Having 165k on the donor, I found many of the donor parts to be unusable so I have been replacing and rebuilding as I go. You find all kinds of cool stuff, like busted teeth in the transmission :(.
Attachment 62980

As the donor was from the north east, lots of rusty parts too.

Here is a quick timeline to bring you up to speed.

• 8/14 Bought 06 WRX donor, started teardown
  Attachment 62966Attachment 62967Attachment 62968
• 4/15 Built new garage so I can build new car
• 5/16 Picked up 818R Chassis #422 @ FFR
  Attachment 62969
• 6/16 Bought EZ36R engine
  Attachment 62970
• 11/16 Started build

Luckily I can install / remove the motor trans combo in a few minutes which makes it easy to do trial and error stuff.
I will be using STI Group N motor and transmission mounts. The motor mounts will require custom plates to join the block to the rubber mounts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1484868918

Like others on the forum that are installing an EZ36R or an EZ30R, modifications are needed. Some have moved the engine trans combo back ~ 1 in. but I decided to notch out the frame where the cam phasers hit the frame. This will allow me to use an STI 6 speed in the future if I need too.

Right side cam phasers hit the frame
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1484868919

Frame notched out to allow motor / trans combo to fit using the stock position.
Attachment 62973

Boxing in the notches.
Attachment 62972

Everything welded up.
Attachment 63042

Now for some paint to finish it up.

Originally I was going to use the WRX 4 pot front and 2 pot rear brakes until I came across this article on nasioc outlining an inexpensive big brake upgrade for Subaru's

Sold these to fund my big brake upgrade
Attachment 62979

After doing much research I decided to use the Cadillac calipers and STI rotors for both the front and rear of the 818R! I used the kit mentioned in the nasioc thread to mount the front calipers and fabricated mounting brackets for the rear.

Best part is that now I have the same calipers, brake pads, and rotors for the front and rear. I only need one of each as spares!

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Your right! It is about time for this build thread. ;). Are you eliminating the front pitch stop mount by using the motor and trans mounts your using?

Be advised that I'll be following your thread with the intention of using many of your ideas.:D

Cadillac...what?!?!?!?!?!?!??!

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Originally Posted by flynntuna

Are you eliminating the front pitch stop mount by using the motor and trans mounts your using?

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Correct, but I have the option of installing the extra front mount should the engine pitch front to rear too much.

You have good skills. Now if you can figure out how to dry sump the EZ36 I will be eternally indebted to you.

awesome rear brakes! any more pictures of your brackets? I am doing the same but with wilwood calipers/rotors

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Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator

You have good skills. Now if you can figure out how to dry sump the EZ36 I will be eternally indebted to you.

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Funny you should say that, I am starting off with an Accusump and will closely monitor the pressures during testing. If I see that it is not sufficient I plan to fabricate a dry sump pan and build a scavenge only system, similar to what you guys have done for the EJ's. I'll definitely post info if that comes about!

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

awesome rear brakes! any more pictures of your brackets? I am doing the same but with wilwood calipers/rotors

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I posted this in different thread, but here they are again to keep this all in one thread. They were very easy to fabricate, 3/16 in. plate for the bracket with the holes and 1/4 in. plate for the caliper mounting ears.

Attachment 62995Attachment 62994Attachment 62996Attachment 62997

Looks awesome and I'm sure it will work well. I'm using the Subaru 4/2 pots with factory master cylinder and pedals and am not happy at all with the brake performance. Have been spending a lot of time trying to tune and adjust the brakes to get them to my liking and am still not there yet. Hope this setup works well for you.

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Originally Posted by Hindsight

I'm using the Subaru 4/2 pots with factory master cylinder and pedals and am not happy at all with the brake performance.

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I did a lot of analysis on the 4/2 pots and the ATS-V swap prior to pulling the trigger. The 4/2 pots are all wrong for the balance of the 818 compared to the WRX. I found a great online brake bias calculator and ran the stock 4/2 pots and the ATS-V brembo brakes.

Turns out, with my Wilwood pedal setup, the 4/2 pots are way to front biased and the ATS-V brembos are almost perfect. If you are interested I can post the results.

Sure, I would be interested in seeing it. The only issue is that the wilwood pedal setup is expensive and would require a lot of re-work for me at this point. I also don't think it would work with my ABS setup (or really any ABS setup). I'd really like to keep the ABS.

I just checked out the calculator and noticed that there is nothing in there factoring the leverage on the pedal (IE where the foot pad is vs where the pushrod is). I would think that would change your numbers substantially, though probably inconsequential for calculating front to rear bias.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hindsight

I just checked out the calculator and noticed that there is nothing in there factoring the leverage on the pedal (IE where the foot pad is vs where the pushrod is).

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I used the more advanced Dual Master Cylinder Calaulator that is referenced from the original link I posted. This one takes the pivot point, and many other factors, into consideration.

Here is the 4/2 pot analysis:

Attachment 63005Attachment 63006

And here is the ATS-V brembo setup.

Attachment 63003Attachment 63004

I really wish the forum would let you upload PDF's larger than 200kb! Important results are in the lower right corner of the second page for both setups.

To avoid fuel starve I am going to try the Holley Hydramat. This one connects directly to the Walbro 255 replacement pump I purchased so no adapters needed. I quickly learned that the FFR tank is to short to fit the stock fuel pump hanger, much less one with a Hydramat attached. Time for the modifications!

I cut off the bottom section of the pump hanger and welded on a spring loaded radiator clamp to hold the fuel pump in a position perpendicular to the tank bottom. This made it so the Hyrdramat sits perfectly flat against the tank floor.

Attachment 63147Attachment 63148

I then used small magnets and some safety wire to craft hold downs for the ends of the Hydramat to keep it as close the the bottom of the tank as possible. With the fuel pump hanger assembly completed I was just able to get it into the tank without bending anything.

Trick Hydramat hold downs
Attachment 63151

Completed fuel hanger assembly
Attachment 63149

Picture in tank
Attachment 63204

Man all that stuff looks great!!!!!!!!!!!

I like it too! I think this is a better solution than a surge tank with all the additional plumbing, pump and wiring. It's also rare that anyone will need more than a stock or common upgrade, in-tank pump can do.

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Originally Posted by Wayne Presley

Man all that stuff looks great!!!!!!!!!!!

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Thanks Wayne, that means a lot. I always follow your posts with great admiration.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scargo

I like it too! I think this is a better solution than a surge tank with all the additional plumbing, pump and wiring. It's also rare that anyone will need more than a stock or common upgrade, in-tank pump can do.

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I also like the simplicity and compact packaging of using this system instead of an external swirl pot. I hope the Hydramat performs as well as expected.

I like the hydramat hold-down idea so much I may copy it.... though I might use bar magnets directly on top of the hydramat in an effort to pin it to the tank instead of using safety wire. I dunno if strong magnets will be strong enough but I guess I will soon see. Also, big thanks for posting the picture of it in the tank!!! In my head, I remember the small in-tank baffle being much closer to the pickup, and I also forgot that the attachment point of the hydramat is not centered - I was concerned the hydramat wouldn't fit due to the baffle being in the way and that I'd have to pound the baffle flat but then worried about it's edge cutting into the hydramat over time. Guess I don't have to worry about that!

I will be interested in seeing if this solves starvation issues on the track. If it doesn't, you can always add a surge tank later (like I am doing). The Radium surge tank offers a version with a built-in fuel pressure regulator which substantially cuts down on the plumbing and keeps things really clean. It's very expensive though.

I like the hold down trick too, though I'm going to spring for the aluminum Boyd tank, so the magnets won't work. Holly has an epoxy based hold down, but I not sure if I trust it or more accurately my skill in installing it. Lol I wonder if Biyd would weld in aluminum studs or bolts to the bottom to secure the mat.

Just bond some steel plates in the bottom of the tank for the magnet stick to. Then you can remove it if you needed to.

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Originally Posted by Wayne Presley

Just bond some steel plates in the bottom of the tank for the magnet stick to. Then you can remove it if you needed to.

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Wow, that's brilliant. Thank you.

Well I have been working to fabricate some motor mounts for the EZ36R and I have to say, it was not as bad as I thought it was going to be.

I started with a new set of STI Group N mounts and removed the top plates (they will not be used).
Attachment 63312Attachment 63313

Next I grabbed some 1 1/2" angle iron and some plate steel, both 3/16" thick. Measuring and getting the angles correct was the hardest part. The FFR mounting tabs are angled inward ~21 degrees and pitched forward ~10 degrees. This required a compound bend in the flat plate to attach to the third mounting point on the EZ36R block.
Attachment 63311

Finally I bolted everything up and tack welded the angle and plate steel pieces together while they were on the car to ensure a perfect fit up. Then removed the mounts for final welding. I also added a gusset down the center for added strength.
Attachment 63314Attachment 63315Attachment 63316Attachment 63317

I designed them so that nothing hangs below the underbelly of the car as I will be installing a full under-tray for better aero.

I'll post pics of them installed after I paint them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hobby Racer

To avoid fuel starve I am going to try the Holley Hydramat. This one connects directly to the Walbro 255 replacement pump I purchased so no adapters needed. I quickly learned that the FFR tank is to short to fit the stock fuel pump hanger, much less one with a Hydramat attached. Time for the modifications!

I cut off the bottom section of the pump hanger and welded on a spring loaded radiator clamp to hold the fuel pump in a position perpendicular to the tank bottom. This made it so the Hyrdramat sits perfectly flat against the tank floor.



Attachment 63147Attachment 63148

I then used small magnets and some safety wire to craft hold downs for the ends of the Hydramat to keep it as close the the bottom of the tank as possible. With the fuel pump hanger assembly completed I was just able to get it into the tank without bending anything.

Trick Hydramat hold downs
Attachment 63151

Completed fuel hanger assembly
Attachment 63149

Picture in tank
Attachment 63204

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Awesome! I am going to do this same install. Nice photographs.

Finally got both seats mounted in the car. Now I can finalize the steering column position and adjust the pedals. I put the driver seat on universal sliding rails I got off eBay. They give me 3 1/2" of travel, from the front lower cross bar to the rear firewall. Not a ton of adjustment, but every little bit helps. I mounted both seat as low in the chassis as I could.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1486941827

The passenger seat is non adjustable as it touches the front lower cross bar and is only 1/2" off the rear firewall.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1486941827

I've been working on the shifter and cable system. I am using the optional aluminum FFR shifter but running the cables straight back. This required fabricating two bell cranks to reverse the cable push/pull direction so the transmission shift pattern is preserved.

Its coming out really nice. I'll post pics this weekend.

Nice. Looking forward to seeing them. I hope you have taken advantage of all the people here on the forum who have done their own and documented it! Lots of good ideas...

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Originally Posted by Scargo

Nice. Looking forward to seeing them. I hope you have taken advantage of all the people here on the forum who have done their own and documented it! Lots of good ideas...

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Definitely... this forum is full of great ideas and helpful people, one of my favorite places on the web!

I just noticed you're in Syracuse. Myself and Mechie both lived there for a bit. While he's farther away now, I'm just East of Rochester. I'll have to see this thing as progress moves along.

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Originally Posted by 305mouse

I just noticed you're in Syracuse. Myself and Mechie both lived there for a bit. While he's farther away now, I'm just East of Rochester. I'll have to see this thing as progress moves along.

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Wow, small world. Definitely have to get together when the weather gets better.

I purchased the optional K-tuned FFR aluminum shifter from another forum member and really love the looks and operation, it really is art. However, the forward facing cable layout FFR uses leaves much to be desired. After reading many MR2 shifter conversion threads, I decided to do my own rear facing cable conversion using my FFR aluminum shifter. Initially I was going to turn the shifter backwards and go from there, but I decided to leave it facing forward. Either way would require dual bell cranks to change the direction of throw for the forward and side motion so the transmission shift pattern would be normal.

I then cut the front of the shifter off to make room for my Wilwood brake adjuster; made a new base plate and started fitting the bell cranks. Each bell crank has three adjustment locations for the cable and shifter connection allowing a large amount of adjustment for shift throw. The final cable routing allows for an almost straight shot back to the transmission. I am also using Mechie's rear bell crank to eliminate the large loop for the twisting motion of the shift shaft. My new cables will only need to be 70" total length!


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1488669800

The bell cranks are made from 1/4" aluminum plate with 5/16" Oilite bronze bushings pressed into the pivot for smooth operation.

Attachment 64663 Attachment 64665 Attachment 64666

Very ingenious Hobby racer. I love it.
Gets my vote for best 818 IIIE award. (IIIE= ingenious innovative Idea and execution)
Bob

That's fantastic! Which linkage did you end up going with - the ball joint or clevis?

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Originally Posted by Zach34

That's fantastic! Which linkage did you end up going with - the ball joint or clevis?

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I haven't decided yet. I'm leaning toward the ball joints because they allow for easy, no tool adjustments. But until I test run it through the gears I am leaving my options open.

That's very slick. Can you speak to your decision to reverse the direction at the shifter vs doing it at the tranny, where you would have only one reversal bellcrank required.
I vote for the clevises. Where did you get the clevises... McMaster-Carr?

SLICK! Very nicely made parts!

Where are you going to put the e-brake? Going with electronic?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scargo

That's very slick. Can you speak to your decision to reverse the direction at the shifter vs doing it at the tranny, where you would have only one reversal bellcrank required.
I vote for the clevises.

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I had already purchased Zero Decibel's rear bell crank shifter kit and did not want to waste it! Plus it would still have required two bell cranks in the rear as I would have needed to eliminate the large loop that FFR uses for the twisting motion of the shift shaft. My cables are now very short and almost completely straight making for a very precise shift feel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scargo

Where did you get the clevises... McMaster-Carr?

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Yes, McMaster-Carr, I love that place!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hindsight

SLICK! Very nicely made parts!

Where are you going to put the e-brake? Going with electronic?

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No e-brake as this is track only car and I am using front brake rotors on the rear (no parking brake inner drum).

Great job!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hobby Racer

I had already purchased Zero Decibel's rear bell crank shifter kit and did not want to waste it! Plus it would still have required two bell cranks in the rear as I would have needed to eliminate the large loop that FFR uses for the twisting motion of the shift shaft. My cables are now very short and almost completely straight making for a very precise shift feel...
No e-brake as this is track only car and I am using front brake rotors on the rear (no parking brake inner drum).

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I could have said, "Because Race Car!" for you...
I understand now since you had that nifty stuff from Zero Decibel. Still, it could be done with one bellcrank mounted on the bracket in the back for the shaft "in and out". I have the S2K shifter I will mod for mine.