The rivets are the standard kit-provided rivets, no color applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by bishes
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The rivets are the standard kit-provided rivets, no color applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by bishes
My attention to detail is seriously lacking today apparently; I saw the holes in the black panel and thought it had been riveted in without also realizing that's the mismatched panel that's going to be redone. Woops!Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
No worries. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by bishes
I started laying the rear harness out and need to shorten the Wilwood EPB harness quite a bit. There are four heavy wires I need to try to find a connector for.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1768688252
I'd like to find something that I can pass through the same hole that the rest of the rear harness will pass through and handle 40 amps. What do folks recommend?
I know the connectors I am using will handle 40 amps but not sure if it will fit through the hole you are referring to? I have been replacing most of my connectors with Deutsch and some are the higher rated DTP style. They are rated for 25 amps continuous but I am assuming if its for your parking brake it would only be momentary? Those wires look like they are 12 gauge so it surprises me they indicate a 40 amp draw but either way, depending on what the connector needs to pass through, they tend to be on the smaller side.
https://crushinag.com/product/dtp-2-...IaAqsdEALw_wcB
Thanks, Tim.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
The wires are the ones that run to the calipers. The EPB main power is on a 40amp fuse, not sure what the draw of the motors is, so just being cautious. If the wire is 12 awg, then the draw should be 20 amps or lower. I've looked at the Deutsch stuff, but haven't tried my hand at them yet.
Dave
I ordered a Deutsch crimp tool that will work from 26 to 12 awg wire using #20, #16,or #12 DP, DTM, or DTP pins. I'll see how I like working with these connectors and may follow Tim's lead and convert the rest of the harness connectors as well.
I think you are going to really like them. I have done work with Weatherpack, Packard 56, Metri-Pack and now Deutsch/Amphenol. I really like them but the crimp tool if you want to use solid barrels is a bit of hurdle. Once past that, you'll never look back. Super easy to work with, bullet proof and they look and fit very nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
I'll give a second vote for Deutsch connectors. Takes a minute to get use to working with them, but it is worth it.
Quick question gentlemen … has anyone ever painted their aluminum panels body color? I’m seriously considering doing so seeing how I have access to all the materials and equipment… what do y’all think should I give it a go? To do so would mean sanding each panel with 320 grit …..metal etching the aluminum panels in acid wash,etch priming all panels …. Scuffing primer then Basecoat and finally clearcot …. I know it’s a lot of extra work but I don’t know if anyone has ever done it before and what their experience with it was long term ….. lmk what y’all think
Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark
Many have painted the aluminum panels in various colors, so yes, it's been done and is a perfectly viable approach if done correctly. As you point out, it is a lot of work! The biggest concern I can think of is durability, which can be improved by good preparation, the materials used, and how the paint is cured, i.e. baking the painted panels.
Dave
Great to have your panels back from powder coat. I think the silver will be a nice touch. Wish I had the design sense to to do something like that.
What are you going to use for thermal/sound? Sorry for the repeat if you covered that earlier. I spent a lot of time cutting out the Thermo-tech pieces, to ensure no gaps and minimize waste. If I ever had to do it again, I think I would give the Lizard Skin a try (which I will be applying to the underside of the body and nose).
Chris,Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
I'll likely go the same route as I did on my MK4 and use Thermotech again inside the cockpit. I like it mostly for its sound deadening properties. I looked at the Lizard Skin products, but I know I'd just make a complete mess spraying it inside the car. I'm still not sure what to do for heat insulation for the roof, but it won't be anything with butler rubber that will heat up and come loose..
Dave
Tim,Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I'm excited to try them. I also like that they can be assembled and disassembled, so I don't even need to pass the connectors through the panel, but just the wires and then put the connectors on. I suppose you could do that will all the connectors, but there are so many different types used in the RF harness. I'm also looking at potentially using the larger firewall bulkhead connectors if it makes sense as a way to consolidate multiple feeds into one location/connector.
Dave
I may have found the color for my Coupe. I'm liking Ford's Carbonized Gray ...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1768768163
Sharp color!
Even better with a gunmetal wheel color:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1768770289
Oh yeah. I like it!
That's a great color. Stripes or no stripes?
I'm thinking black stripes.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Black stripes with a red or white pin stripe flanking the stripes. Oh yeah!Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
Today I spent some time working on the rear harness. I put it in the chassis and zip tied it where I want it to go for the long haul. I shortened the leg for the fuel sender connection by about three feet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1768878098
The fuel pump connection will get worked as well, but I ran out of time today. I also connected the Wilwood EPB calipers with the harness that I incorporated into the RF rear harness and tied those legs where they will remain. At the other end, I pulled the rear harness into the interior through the passenger side of the Snakebite Motorworks lower transmission cover panel and put my first Deutsch connector onto the EPB caliper wires.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1768878098
I'll be figuring out the permanent placement for the Wilwood EPB controller somewhere in the added interior space created by the Snakebite Motorworks panels. Next up will be the modifications to the rest of the Wilwood harness and getting some openings in the FFR panel that goes over this space so that I can route the rear harness up to the main harness under the dash.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1768878098
This last bit will be significantly reduced to just about 12 inches of length for the switch leg since the switch will be mounted in the dash extension panel from Snakebite Motorworks along with the A/C control panel.
I also posted another update on my progress to my YouTube channel today.
https://youtu.be/q0EPRSigTq4?si=u9y6fhYFDbVlYIMS
Hey Dave …. I think I found my color as well …. Keeping it ford colors with a 2026 ford raptor r shelter green metallic … color has a lot of brown and gold tones in it and the flop is to black in the shade …. I think it will go well with my bronze wheels … btw I started the process of painting my foot boxes body color …. I have most of them in etch primer already
Following another one of Paul's expert tips, I'm creating a wiring document using Excel to capture each system's wiring details.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1769012042
I also create basic diagrams to capture specific aspects of my wiring.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1760718133
I like your organization, this makes me happy! We'll be documenting our wiring in a similar manner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
During my convalescence (of which I have had about enough of) I have been trying to develop an actual whole car wiring schematic which incorporates after market components (EPB, CC, DD Guard Dawg, etc.), the Coyote major components and the RF harness. I started out with Vizio but have since moved on to RapidHarness. I am also coming to the conclusion this may be a bridge too far. It requires not only a significant amount of time but a monetary investment in the software as well.
What you have above is a great process and is far better than napkin scratch and memory. I am doing the same while trying to keep the overall schematic ember still burning. Once wires go into whatever kind of harness wrap one uses it's very difficult to figure out what has been done without some kind of road map.
Today I finished modifying the Wilwood EPB harness, significantly reducing the length of the portion that ties into the controller and switch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1769042019
I also mounted the controller in the space created by the three Snakebite Motorworks panels that close in the area above the transmission.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1769041938
Next I installed the three bulkhead fittings I described that will connect the low-pressure lines for the master cylinders. I wanted to ensure I sealed the openings well while also protecting the panel from damage while installing the fittings. I accomplished this using washers with rubber seals that I found while looking for a solution. They worked perfectly!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1769041938
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1769041938
Finally, I started laying out the electronics that will be mounted to the front upper transmission panel and the dash extension panel. I'm still toying with whether or not I want to remove a portion of this panel to create easy access to the space behind it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1769041938
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1769041938
You know, for the newly retired guy that's supposed to be taking his time on this build you are hauling a$$. All good though. I love the parking brake controller in that cavity. I have been mulling over what, if any, items I can tuck in there.
Tim,
Compared with my last build, I'm progressing at a very lieserly pace. I don't even have my engine ordered yet seven months into the build. I was go-karting my MK4 at six months in.
After sharing a few adult beverages with my wife in the shop yesterday afternoon, I started talking about the windows in the Coupe and showed her what they (FFR Lexan) were going to look like and how you would need to reach in to open the doors. She gave me the "that's stupid" look. I then mentioned the FormaCars power window option and showed her the door popper feature, and she told me to order them! So, I now have an order in for the power windows.
My story is similar. My Wife worked as a licensed interior designer for 25+ years. I showed her the default windows and she asked, "Is that the only option?". I showed the the Forma windows and she told me, "You put those default windows in that car and I will NEVER be caught in it!!". I ordered the Forma kit. Gotta keep the Wife unit happy. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
I'm amazed at how many builders are ordering the Forma windows. We've got Jim Stone, Papa, and now you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Skuzzy
I'm still on the fence and waiting to hear back from Chris to see if he'll sell me the kit without some of the parts. Mostly because we want these to be manually operated, and I don't love the rear quarter windows.
I am not crazy about the rear quarter windows either. I am going to see if there is something I can do about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by JTG
Great work as usual Dave!
What did you use to make your wiring diagram images?
Thank you. I just use PowerPoint to make those diagrams.Quote:
Originally Posted by Power Surge
Wow Dave, you are really making some headway on this! I am liking the color choice with the black stripes. I am pretty sure if I tried that move with my wife on the windows it would not pass the smell test. As soon as she asked about the price it would be a non starter. I have been kicking around some ideas for other options on the windows and will see if I can come up with a more economical option.
I agree about the rear quarter windows. I was hoping I could somehow cut out the horizontal divider, but the glass is actually two pieces and the divider anchors those two pieces.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skuzzy
A custom 1 piece tempered glass window would cost thousands. Lexan would be a step backwards, but Send-Cut-Send can make it for you if you send them a template. And I'm sure the plastic frame part could be re-sculpted with HSRF/filler and painted.
I'm all ears if anyone has ideas (or maybe we should make a separate thread for Papa's sake [he may like them as is after all :)])
Custom tempered glass probably isn't as crazy expensive as you're imagining.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
I've used this company frequently for various past projects (not car related) and they've been great.
One Day Glass
They also have an Auto Glass Reproduction division.
Sanders Repro Glass
Brent,Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
I told her what the cost was, and she didn't bat an eye. She has been very supportive concerning my projects.
On your ideas about a more cost effective solution, I'm certain you will have a product that will sell. The first power window conversion I saw for the Coupe was one that Gordon Levy was doing. It was something like $7k and had to be done at his shop. The FormaCars solution is half that and can be done by the builder. If you could come up with something simpler and less expensive, it would sell.
Dave