Quote:
Originally Posted by Skuzzy
You're right Skuzzy, I should have said "Traditionalists" won't like it. This is far from a faithful reproduction of the original Daytona in many ways
I suspect half the Forum won't click the link to my build thread because the title says "An LS 65' Coupe Build".
But Shelby originally wanted a Chevy engine in his Cobras, yada yada... :D
So I’m trying to figure out where to mount my Ron Francis fuse box and the general consensus is to mount it in the drivers foot box like you have done … however I’ve got to say it’s super tight in there and I’m not sure I can fit my big ole hands in there with everything that is supposed to occupy that space …especially with the body on the car …. Any advice or fitment tricks …. Btw I have kinda been sidetracked on build progress since I read about you building your own powder coating oven …. My wife bought me a small Eastwood powder coating kit and man it’s pretty cool being able to powder coating at home ! I would like to powder coat all my floor boards and interior panels but the supplied over is way to small … I been looking into building a propane or electric element powder coating oven any advice on that front as well?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark
Hey Mark,
I also was not thrilled about putting the fuse box on that angled frame rail in the driver's footbox. My problem with it was that that location is visible and I thought it was ugly. After thinking a long time about alternative locations, I gave up and mounted it there and instead built an aluminum cover I powder coated to blend in. I'm also going to make a panel for that triangular area in the footbox to hide all those ugly wires.
I could not think of a better location. And the RF harness is made for the fuse box to be there, so moving it elsewhere would mean lengthening almost all the wires.
It is a PITA to get in there to work, but you do have access from above (if you haven't mounted the footbox top panels) and below.
I love my Eastwood powder coat gun. I bought a "better", expensive gun that I learned quickly was garbage and a complete waste of money. The Eastwood has done all my panels (I'm mostly done) and smaller parts.
Regarding the oven, if you are serious about doing your panels then yes you'll need to make a big oven. I followed this guide pretty closely: https://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014...-oven.html?m=1
My recommendation would be to keep it simple. Forget the fan/convection ducting, lights, window,. Don't need those. I built a fan/convection duct and the fan burnt out after a few hours.
Some things to consider.
I probably spent $700 on the oven. And I used cheap aluminum panels from the RV industry to skin it (not recommended. Use steel). I suspect with metal prices now, it will cost at least $1k.
It was a fun project for me, but took me away from the build for a month and a half. Then it takes a lot of time to prep the panels and do the coating.
The sandblasting part is not fun. I do that in a tent to contain all the sandblasting media. It's cramped, uncomfortable, dirty.
Then some of my panels have some imperfections in the powder coat because I'm not a professional.
So, with all that being said. Unless you REALLY REALLY want to coat your panels yourself (or you want the oven for other projects) just have the big panels done professionally.
Get yourself an old kitchen oven on Marketplace for $50. With that size oven, you can coat almost all the other parts yourself (door frames excluded).
My two cents on this subject. I spent about $1300 on powder coating for my coupe. I believe my powder coater used a DA on the flat panels and low pressure sandblasting on the smaller bits.
Twenty years ago I built a '67 Mustang and was a powder coating fool. I bought the Eastwood kit and picked up a free oven on the side of the road. Homeowners were remodeling and getting rid of the range. With all that said, I am not sure it's worth it, aside from the convenience. You have to have a sanding and sandblasting area, an oven, and of course, the powder coater. All these items take up precious floor space for me and I made the decision while building my Camaro to sell all of it. Of those components, I only really miss my highly modified sandblasting booth.
Update on the leaking brake master cylinder:
Replaced the MC and it STILL leaked at the outlet. Turns out that it wasn't the MC at all. The damn 1/8 NPT to 3AN fitting/adapter was faulty.
I got a new one and compared it. The faulty one has slightly smaller diameter NPT threads. That's why it was bottoming out.
So, that means I now have an extra (apparently perfectly fine) Wilwood MC, just in case
I'd like to say Wilwood is faultless in this situation, but the fitting/adaptor was actually a Wilwood product
Anyway, brakes are bled. No leaks, firm pedal. Yay
Glad to here it, nice to have that checked off the list. This activity is still on my to do list.
That's a win, Jim! Who woulda figured the adapter as the culprit? Not me. Leak free brakes! Wahoo!
Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
Thanks for the encouragement guys!
Don't have anything new to report, at least not anything finished. I've been bouncing around several different projects, including another Rabbit Hole that I'll post about later
Current projects:
- Trying to tidy up the wiring enough that I can try to get a first start in sometime in the next few months
- Courtesy and ambient lighting, including making custom cage-mounted dome light fixtures
- Heat shields for footbox panels directly next to headers (almost done - will show more soon and explain why I made them)
- Upholstering the outer footbox panels so I can finally seal up the foot boxes for the last time
Some pics:
All my dash lights work. Courtesy lights in the footboxes. My turn signals work (Microflex Labs turn signal controller and switch), and flashers. All push buttons work (Billet Automotive buttons). Heater/AC fan works. Windshield wiper motor. Brake and reverse lights. ECU fires up. Don't really know about the T56 reverse lockout module, but it lets me shift into reverse without resistance.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1765175874
Same Hurst shifter used by several others. I did have to move the hole in the trans cover rearward 1 inch to center the shifter. Not bad though.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1765175874
FYI, for those who don't know, you can choose a free shift ball if you buy a new Tremec transmission. They don't exactly advertise this. I knew about it thanks to one of Paul's build threads. I had to search online for the form to order the ball. It came a few weeks later.
Can we make it into a 3 seater?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1765175874
Jim - going to go a little off topic here but I too am going down the rabbit hole of upholstery. I have looked at the Sailrite machines as well as others like Juki and Consew. Have you developed any opinions, good bad or otherwise, regarding the machine you picked up?
Hey Tim,Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Its been a year since I researched the other machines, so I can't really speak to the Juki/Consew's, but I absolutely love the Sailrite. I have the Sailrite Ultrafeed LS. Everything about the machine and Sailrite is top notch. From the packaging, to the excellent instructions and their YouTube tutorials, to the quality and feel of the machine.
I got the Monster Balance wheel, which is supposed to make it even smoother and easier to sew. I'm not sure it's necessary, but it I guess it makes it so you can sew even slower which is good for a newb like me.
I like that the Ultrafeed is compact. It's not exactly light, but comes with a really nice carrying case.
I haven't sewed since Spring. I've kind of planned to do it as I go, doing panels as I need them instead of all at once. Keeps it from becoming a chore
I have a Juki Lu 565 that I purchased off of Facebook. It is an older machine and works really well. We also have a lot of Juki's at our office that are used for development work. I can't speak to the others, but I think the Consew's are similar to the Juki's.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
There is no good reason for why I haven't complete First Start and Go Kart stages by now. I have essentially everything completed for this thing to drive, but I keep finding ways to distract myself.
Speaking of....
Custom reservoir cap emblems. Employed AI to help design them, Send-Cut-Send made them, then powder coated myself
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1766123104
I went a little overboard with the power steering fluid emblem... My wife says I'm a bit "Extra"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1766123104
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1766123104
Next distraction was making billet courtesy light fixtures out of chunks of aluminum, which are attached to the roll bar.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1766122960
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1766123005
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1766123952
There are so many better and easier ways to make something than drilling and cutting on a bar of aluminum for hours like I did for these lights.
All wires are run inside the roll bar
More updates on other distraction projects soon
Overkill? Probably. But also amazing? Definitely!! Keep your distractions coming, I love it!!
Very Cool Jim
This is what makes our builds unique! No two are the same.
Scott
I can absolutely appreciate the details you are doing. Nice work.
Those are some sweet, custom touches Jim. Wow! Nice work!
Jim
Get that engine started :)
mark
Thanks guys, glad you like it. Honestly , I was expecting a few cringe responses
On it Mark! Just need to finish my heat shields, fill the fluids, and I'll be ready to fire it up
Really nice work Jim. Custom is custom. That's why they call it custom. Keep it up. And get that engine started,
Holy moly talk about setting the bar …. Your coupe looks amazing btw it’s all those little details that make it an award winning vehicle …. I love everything that you have created so far ….one question what’s a brother have to do to get a set of those reservoir caps LOL super nice touches
No cringe from me, I completely respect that you're making this your own. Some of it kind of feels like Easter eggs that the big manufacturers hide on their cars. The T-Rex eating the Raptor comes to mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Can't wait to see the finished product!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark
Here's a link to the DXF files that you can upload to Send Cut Send. If you need different size, you'll have to use a program like Inkscape to change it.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...2su6lHIZ1szqXS
PM me if you have trouble
I think I can speak on behalf of many on this forum, we love what you do Jim. Thanks for sharing your creativity.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Cheers,
Nige
Slowly checking off items on the list of things to do before first start. Often times it's 1 step forward, two steps back. I'm sure others commiserate.
Got a radiator/coolant system pressure testing kit from Vevor. My radiator cap is 16 psi, so I wanted to test up to at least 20 psi. At about 10 psi, I got some drips from two AN fittings in my heater hose circuit which were easily fixed by a little tightening of the fittings.
15 psi- fine.
18 psi - large splash and gush of coolant from the front of the engine.
After freaking out for a few minutes and scrambling to find a bucket and towels, I found a steady stream coming from behind the water pump
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1767652645
The stream you can see coming off the crank pulley is actually originating up higher.
Closer inspection and it seems to be coming from the back cover of the water pump where there appears to be a gap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1767652645
That water pump is not from Blueprint. It came as part of the CVF racing front accessory drive. The accessory drive bracket mounts to the pump.
So off the whole assembly went. Wasn't too bad after detaching everything. Used my electric hoist
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1767674816
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1767674816
Sure enough, 3 of the 5 screws securing the cover plate were not even finger tight.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1767674816
O-ring was perfect, so I just put it back together and torqued everything appropriately.
Will go back in when I receive replacement gaskets (not that those were to blame).
So, lots of work because I didn't check this when installing the first time. I assumed CVF assembled their pump correctly, which was a mistake and lesson learned.
But at least I know what was leaking and am confident in the fix.
Onward!
That's a pretty big Yikes! Lots of labor to fix but glad to see it was a "no cost" remedy. If you feel like being a good samaritan, it never hurts to let outfits know their QA/QC might need a little attention.
Got some packages in the mail yesterday (is there any better feeling than having boxes or crates of parts waiting for you when arriving home from work?)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1767806371
My wife convinced me to get the Formacars electric window kit (that's my story and I'm sticking to it).
I'm working hard to reduce the cabin noise and make this car comfortable to drive, and I think real glass windows will help a lot.
It came impeccably packaged. The parts look top notch.
I am more than slightly intimidated by all the parts and the installation process. And I bought them uncoated so I could powder coat them to match the rest of the car, but man, there are a lot of things to take apart to coat. But that's a project for summer! I got them now so I can get the electrics sorted so I can finish my behind the dash stuff
I had no idea you were headed in this direction, but I'm excited to see how you make out with their window kit!!
I'm 99% ready to place an order for a set myself. They are out of stock right now, but taking back orders.
I am surprised you were able to get them. I inquired about 3 months ago and they were out of stock then as well. I bounce back and forth on whether to spend my money on bags and an airpod or power windows. It's a tough decision.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I first contacted them early November and place an order. It took about two months to get them, but I wasn't in a hurry. I got $200 off because I requested them un-upholstered so I can upholster myself to match the rest of the cabin.
Regarding your decision: money grows on trees, so do them both! :D
Same here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
Those will be sweet, Jim! I watched their videos. A very nice upgrade indeed. For some reason I'm not tempted on this one. What's wrong with me? Will enjoy watching them come together.
P.S. I need to have your wife talk to mine! :p
Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
I may be overselling the wife approval thing. The conversation went something like this:
ME: I've been thinking a lot about the Formacars glass electric windows for the Coupe.
WIFE: You mean your car doesn't have windows?
ME: Well, it does, but they're plastic with a little rectangle cutout that slides back and forth
WIFE: [stares at me blankly]. You should get the glass ones
Conversation over
That kind of conversation means the light has never been greener!!! Especially since it was her idea and she told you to do it!!
Higgy
Happy wife, happy life. Way to take one for the team.
Less is more my friend, less is more.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Very funny, this actually prompted a conversation with my wife about the same topic. I was initially planning to figure out how to build the windows from scratch, but just got off the phone with Chris at Forma about deleting a few of the parts from the kit and attempting to reengineer a manual version of their windows. We'll see how that works out, but the nice thing about buying the kit is the geometry is already figured out. Now it's a matter of coming up with a mechanism to raise and lower the glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
My wife values my time and realized how much would be involved in figuring out this part of the build. "Buy the window kit, it's worth it"
Nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Here's my secret when buying something that's a bit on the pricy side. Now this has worked for me for 25 years so feel free to use it at your discretion.
ME: I'm thinking about buying some upgraded windows for the coupe!
WIFE: What's wrong with the stock windows? Are the upgrades expensive?
ME: They're plastic and they don't roll down, only a small vent window. Not sure on the price, I'll check.
ME: I decided to buy the window upgrade. They only cost $1,200. (I'm guessing, I don't actually know the price)
Now, here's the secret; I didn't actually buy them,,, I'm waiting to gauge my wife's reaction!
WIFE: Reaction A. That's not bad, sounds reasonable. ME: Order immediately!
WIFE: Reaction B. Wow, that sounds expensive. ME: Just kidding, I didn't order them. They did seem a bit high priced.
Remember guys, keep this to yourselves. We are in this together.....
Just don't mention the price, am I right? The sticker shock on those things took awhile to wear off. But now that I see the parts in person, I understand why it costs so much.Quote:
Originally Posted by JTG
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Frahm
Nice! I'll have to try that one next time