I have changed the album to public. Lets see if this works...
Test:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1656031127
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I have changed the album to public. Lets see if this works...
Test:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1656031127
This one came through so maybe the album privacy setting has something to do with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
Yes! I went back to your delivery and panel removal pics and they are there too! Now all of us who have been (almost ;) ) as anxious as you will be able to watch!
Jeff
Glad that's fixed. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I was kind of wondering why I was not getting any responses ....:p
Scott,
I'm glad I finally got out yesterday. I figured out why my drivers door was acting up (self inflicted wound, like most of them). Like I said I'm going to try and get out to help as much as I can. Can't wait to hear that sucker run. It's a complete bonus that the ride out to your house a great little cobra run. So any excuse will be used. lol
Jesse, It was great having you stop by. Got to meet your wife and see your roadster. Sweet ride. Your welcome at any time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzboy54
Congrats on taking delivery and getting going Scott. Looks like you’re off to a good start. I haven’t spent much time outside of roadster land here so I’m looking forward to following along.
Way better. I was not sure if something was amiss or it was me. Glad to see the pictures from delivery day and a few work days. Very nice
Don't have my steering rack so I started work on the lower control arms. I am in the process of painting them. Will update with a pic when done. I also put grooves in the faces of the bushings to aid in allowing the grease to coat better.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1656378695
The next step in the book is the front shocks. I upgraded to the Koni silver double adjustable shocks. I found the shocks and the 500 lb springs. The build manual shows how to build and install the standard red Koni shocks and I used that as a guide for the silver ones. Basically the same. Those lock rings gave me some fits.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1656378695
After putting them together I was going to temporarily mock them up but on page 67 of the manual it says to locate the coil-over mounting hardware. Yep, you got it... no coil-over mounting hardware listed on any of my inventory sheets. Another email to FF.
For those in the know .... who exactly should I be emailing/calling with inventory issues like this? The only contact I have at FF is Mike D. so I have been emailing him. (no response yet)
You're right. The silver double adjustable shocks don't have separate instructions. But are assembled like the red ones. They are, however, mentioned in the build manual several places: Body of the shock always down. Mounted in the top hole locations. Both are important potential differences. As you mount them, also orient them to allow access to the upper and lower adjusters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
You don't have the mounting bolts and spacers for the coilovers? Those are pretty routine parts. Sure they're not on the inventory list? Obviously contact Factory Five if unaccounted for. I will contact someone directly if I know them or they're expecting me to contact them. But generally I think they want these inquires into the customerservice@factoryfive.com email. Make sure the title gives a good summary of what the problem is.
I did not get my mounting bolts or spacers until my last POL shipment. I could not find them on the inventory list either.
Thanks for the info Skuzzy. I will follow-up at that address.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
FWIW, I checked my Coupe inventory pages. The front coilover mounts were in box 1i Primary Chassis Components. Listed under 15344 Coupe Complete Kit IFS Components. Included bolts, nuts, washers, and spacers. The rear coilover mounts were in box 11-1 Gen 3 Coupe 2015 IRS Parts. Listed under 15935 IRS Shock Mounting Components. Like the front, listed bolts, nuts, and spacers.
Note that if you ordered the front swaybar kit, the stock lower bolts are replaced with longer ones included with the sway bars.
Thanks Paul!! I saw those but the manual didn't list what size the hardware was so I was not sure. And yes I did order the swaybar so that tidbit is important. Can I mount the sway bar before the steering rack and spindles or should I wait?Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Thanks for watching my back!
No, I'd wait for the front suspension to be fully assembled before mounting the sway bar. It's an easy add with everything else in place, although you may want to dig out those longer lower coilover bolts and use them for the initial assembly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
Not unusual for the manual to not list the specific hardware sizes. That's where the inventory lists become very useful.
Happy to hear your answer was to wait as I was checking the inventory for the mounting hardware for the swaybars and found that the rod ends are on the POL list.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Can anyone see any major issues with the way I have the body hung?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1656444831
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1656444831
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1656444831
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1656444831
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1656444831
Looks like your body came out of a fairly new mold. Much better looking than mine. My body and hood are sitting outside, under a UV blocking tarp. Although, in this 100F+ heat I am concerned about it getting out of shape.
I am considering mounting what I need to mount to the frame in order to fit the body. Then inserting guide posts, into the frame so I can have the freedom to install/remove the body for various aspects of the build.
Looks like you have things covered in the hanging setup.
I too will be looking for options to raise the car body in my garage. I have a four post lift and ten foot ceiling, so was thinking of either putting a platform on stilts on the lift to store the body above the chassis or something similar to this with pulleys that folks with Jeeps and other vehicles use to store removal hardtops. Guessing setting the body on a flat platform is acceptable?
Attachment 168762
Setting it on a flat platform would be no different than setting it on the ground. Your good to go with that.
I think it looks like a pretty slick setup Scott. I like that you have the bottom rails supported and that spacer 2x2 seems to be keeping the body from getting "squeezed" by the straps.
Very close to my set up.
Attachment 168764
Congrats on the delivery. I will be watching your build as well.
Doug
Looking good Doug. I had my garage side walls increased from the standard 9 feel to 10 feet. That allowed me to get the body high enough to work under. One of my better decisions in life:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by dstelter
Is this common practice for the bushings? Just gives me the heebie-jeebies a bit scoring an otherwise perfect bushing, but understand the need to evacuate some air haha :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
A couple of points about this.Quote:
Originally Posted by rhk118
1) Cutting grooves like that allows water and debris to get into the bushing. If you want to have a bit more grease captured for the bushing, then use a 1/16" drill bit and dimple around the face of the bushing, keeping the dimples closer to the center away from the edges.
2) If these are urethane bushings, then DO NOT use a hydrocarbon based lubricant on them. That will insure squeaking as those lubricants interact with the urethane causing surface tension changes in the material. Use a marine grade synthetic silicon, such as this stuff. I'll warn you about that lubricant. Once you get it on something, it is very difficult to get it off.
This practice is encouraged at the build school, maybe by others. I've done it on a couple of my builds and agree it definitely helps the joints to accept grease better. Without the grooves, sometimes grease won't flow into the joint without a lot of pressure. I wouldn't get carried away with it. But I think the good outweighs whatever negative there might be.Quote:
Originally Posted by rhk118
Actually the bushings on the UCA's are molded with the grooves so for me this is a non-issue.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1656796865
I do want to thank everyone for their input. I appreciate any and all comments.
Nine days since delivery
Missing power steering rack, LCA lock nuts, front spindles, IRS diff, and rear spindles so in the mean time I started painting what I had. I am using POR15. The process takes 7 steps. Step one is cleaning/degreasing. Step two is either etching bare metal or lightly sanding painted/PC surfaces. Step three is a light coat of POR15 gray undercoat. Step 4 is a second coat of the gray. Step 5 - 7 are three light coats of POR 15 top coat in red. I found that three light coats cover better than 2 heaver coats. The POR15 runs if applied too heavy.
LCA's
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1656798384
Front Koni shocks assembled and ready
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1656378695
UCA's
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1656796865
Front hubs
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1656796865
Expecting some missing inventory items to be shipped next week per FF. Some nuts would be nice. In the mean time I will be drilling holes in aluminum!!
Looking good Scott...and appreciate the input on the bushings. I assume those were the lower control arms, the grooves will get some grease between the bushing and the mount tabs.
Yes, those were the lower bushings. The upper bushings have grooves already molded in.Quote:
Originally Posted by rhk118
I decided to mock up what I had of the front suspension today. I wanted to get a feel for how my color choices were going to look. Due to the missing items nothing is tightened down. Everything is only hand tight. I think it's going to look good! I am pleased with it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1656889084
Interesting. The red looks nice. (But then I'm a sucker for red. :rolleyes:) One thing though. You have the silver double adjustable shocks. The manual states "If using the silver double adjustable shocks, these must be mounted with the body of the shock down in the top hole location for both street and race cars." (Bold is mine) Yours are mounted in the lower hole. An easy fix.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
Your Right!! Thanks for the catch. I was thinking about removing them to paint the spacers anyways. My minds now made up.:pQuote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Received Russ Thompsons turn signal unit today. Thanks Russ!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1657060932
Day 13 update
Not a whole lot to report. Continuing to paint the rear suspension parts that I have. Hoping FF can get more suspension parts to me in the next two weeks. Working on fitting panels in the mean time. I ordered A/C so there is an access panel on the passengers side. Of course I want this panel removable. One way is to use rivnuts (nutserts?). I had never tried using them before. There was another post about what tool to use to install these. I have the double wrench tool from McMaster-Carr.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1657135867
It's really simple to use. Insert the supplied long screw thru the tool and screw on a rivnut. Insert the rivnut into the hole.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1657135867
Using two wrenches hold the large bottom of the tool stationary and back out the smaller upper part of the tool. This collapses the rivnut and secures it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1657135867
It is very easy to feel when the rivnut is tight so that you don't over torque it. Back off the top part of the tool and unscrew the long screw and your done.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1657135867
Completed access panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1657157244
Good progress, Scott. I really appreciate the level of detail in this thread, keep it up!
I like the rolling jack stand setup, I will need to do something like that when mine arrives.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
I wanted to be able to move it around. I also wanted it to be a secure as possible. I found the open ended turn buckles at Lowes for a couple of dollars apiece. It makes for a very stable setup that can be easily moved.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Like many others I have never attempted a project like this and am grateful to to other builders that have detailed their builds. I am paying it forward by detailing my build as well in the hopes it will help anyone else.Quote:
Originally Posted by bjblock