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LOL...yeah...we do usually (this year has been fairly mild, not complaining), but those are just the ones we have if we get a big storm and everyone (wife & kids) needs to shovel...the ones I primarily use (scrapers & snow blower) are on the other end of the garage in front of the 33.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by HVACMAN
Hey HVACMAN
This is the one I bought (Fuji Spray Q4 Platinum - T75G) as well as I bought an additional T75G gun
https://www.amazon.com/Fuji-2894-T75...5026942&sr=8-2
Jim
Took my 55 F100 off the rotisserie this morning so I can start stripping it and prepping for primer. The Chassis with new box is up on the lift behind it.
Jim
Attachment 143839
Belly pan and both fenders finish sanded....too much sanding this week with all the panel prep I did and then adding finish sanding of the primer on top of that, my hands started cramping up so I didn't have enough in me to start on the engine side covers today. I'll tackle those tomorrow and then move on to the hood.
Jim
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Engine Side covers finish sanding is now done as well. Also prepped the outside of the hood, removed the hood and went to start on prepping the inside of the hood and my hands started cramping up again so I'm quitting for the day.
Jim
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Hood and cowl now prepped for primer as well....inside of the hood was a PITA to prep...
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Jim
Q4 Platinum Fuji Spray system arrived this morning (sorry about the mess around it). Hoping to try it out this weekend when I prime the hood & cowl....a lot depends upon the weather though. JimQuote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Attachment 144133
Tear down continues for more body prep this weekend. Removed the dash components, wiper, and windshield as well as the tail lights / backup lights.
Unfortunately I may not primer the hood / cowl this weekend due to a huge weather system coming in targeting us with over an inch of rain to start out and then transitioning to 3-6" of snow(maybe more). It may be way too damp to prime.
No worries, plenty of body prep to keep me busy.
Jim
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That's the same system that I have. It took me a while to figure out that conventional nozzle sizing doesn't really translate to this low pressure system so don't hesitate to experiment with that. I find myself using a smaller nozzle size than what I'd expected.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
I agree, and it's different that what we normally see on the HR'sQuote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Started out this weekend masking off the dash area, under the dash, the trans tunnel area and the floor since there is going to be a ton of dust going on now that I've started on the main body.
One advantage of doing thing myself verses having body shop do it is I can be a little more picky about keeping the dust down in certain areas. When I get to spraying, I'm going to mask off the bottom of the 33 too to avoid excessive overspray on the various components.
Once that was done I sanded / prepped the dash area for primer
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Next, I moved on to door gapping, sanding and prep for primer. Driver's door is completely done on the outside, I'll do the inside and top of the doors when I remove them to do the jams. Still working on the passenger door, I had some deep scratches on the passenger door that were there when it was delivered that needed to be dealt with. Almost like it was not tied down completely during transport and was rubbing on another kit next to it.
Both doors ended up lining up really nice with all the body lines and between panels. I found that from the edge of the doors inwards about 1-2", they both had some funky waviness and sunken spots in the gel goat that had to be filled in, but no biggie, just a little more effort.
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Wow that is amazing alignment on the doors. Having the top of the doors even close to the rest of the body when the outside belt line is aligned is a miracle, at least for gen 1 guys.
Congrats, looking great!
Steve
Thanks Steve
Has any drilled weep holes in the bottom of their doors for water escape?
Thinking about it this morning, I don't recall seeing any (I'll find out for sure this weekend when I remove the doors) so figured I'd ask the group.
Jim
There is no flat bottom on the door, it's a wedge. I'm going to drill one or two holes at the bottom of the wedge (right where it starts to angle up on the inside) but they will be sealed by the weatherstripping on the body when the door is closed. I'm not going to park the car outside in the rain for days so figure it will be okay. Just need to open the door after washing, etc....
Steve
Thanks Steve... yeah mine will be garaged most of the time too (except when driving) and I don't have windows holes cut in the top of my door which provides more coverage from water but to be safe I'm going to do the same and drill some holed in the door to allow any water that may get into the door escape.Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Jim
Outside of passenger door completed / prepped for primer... panel alignment turned out good....just like the driver's door, I'll do the inside prep once I remove the doors.
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Jim
Running boards, rear fenders, trunk lid and surrounding body all prepped........... I'm pooped!!
I'll pull the trunk lid, & doors tomorrow so i can do the inside of those panels and then all I have left are the door & trunk jams and I'm ready to shoot primer hopefully next weekend.
trunk handle / latch are removed so the trunk lid is up just a bit, sides pull down even with it latched.
Jim
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Hey Jim, what tips do you use for the epoxy and the paint/primer?Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
This is what I'll useQuote:
Originally Posted by HVACMAN
- 1.8 for epoxy
- 1.3 or 1.5 for primer; for 1.3 need slightly more reducer
- 1.3 for paint
- .8 for clear
Jim
Trunk lid & doors removed.....also masked off the bottom of the car in preparations for all the upcoming spraying, and since it was now masked off I sprayed rubberize coating on the bottoms of the running boards and rear fenders to hopefully eliminate spider cracking in the paint due to stones on the under surfaces. And it makes it look more finished.
Jim
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I recently changed my spray gun cup to the 3M PPS 2.0 system and couldn’t be happier. Clean up is way easier, far less solvent needed too. I had several instances of a dripping cup with both the plastic and stainless Fuji cups with the gun held horizontally. The 3M system is a huge improvement on that. I can even shoot consistently with the gun upside down now without leaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Hi MichaleQuote:
Originally Posted by Michael101
I was looking at that system on you tube today......The only issue is the video really didn't specify any part numbers (like the adapter for the Fuji gun, the 3M PPS 2.0 kit, disposable cups, etc) so I'll need to do some research.
Jim
Found what I need, and ordered the 3M PPS 2.0 system.....all parts should here Friday.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Jim
Which part number did you decide on? This will be my first attempt at bodywork and paint. I am determined to complete this car on my own. So far the only help I've had is a friend helped me set the body on twice. I am not going for a show piece just a 50/50 car. Looks good at 50 feet and 50mph.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Hi HVACMANQuote:
Originally Posted by HVACMAN
There isn't really one complete system / kit out there you kind of need to piece meal it together, so I pieced it together and order through Amazon....here is what I ordered
3M 26000 PPS 2.0 Spray Gun Cup, Lids and Liners Kit, Standard, 200-Micron Filter, 22 Ounces= https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
3M PPS (Original Series) 16124 PPS H/O Pressure Cup with Air Hose, Large, 28 oz, 1 Pack = https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
3M 26003 PPS 2.0 Spray Gun Adapter 16 mm Female, 1.5 mm Thread, 1 Pack (Fits the Fuji T75G spray gun) = https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
I am in the same boat as you, I'm going to finish this thing from start to finish on my own, only needed my kid's help so far to take the body off when the kit was first delivered and then to put the body on to start the body work, everything else was done with my own hands. I've done other restorations, so painting I'm familiar with, but I'm not going for a show car mirror finish but my hopes are it will turn out as good as some of my other vehicles and will be a nice finish but the purist may pick it apart but then you just ask to see their work and they walk away normally.
Funny story, I did a car show last summer with my 70 Challenger and it's a nice looking car (pic attached) but not perfect by any means (I still need to do a good cut & buff on it) and the majority of the folks liked it, I actually took home an award for my class but this one joker was there about 45 minutes just walking around / ripping on it saying this is wrong, or he wouldn't have done that, etc., etc., as well correcting other's comments who were looking at it and finally I got sick of it and walked up to him and said 'let's go over and see your 70 Challenger", and the guy paused, looked stunned and finally said "what.......I don't have one" and quietly walked away. I'm fine with folks who own cars critiquing other's cars to a point, but if you don't own one and your ripping someone else car apart, just shut up.
And as a disclaimer to my comment above about doing it myself, I completely understand some folks can't or don't want to, so I am by no means saying that is wrong or ripping someone for taking that approach, to each their own is my opinion. Building it partially or building fully is still a huge deal and one we should all be proud of.
Jim
Attachment 145075
Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
By the way, HVACMAN, always ask for the TDS (Technical Data Sheet) for the epoxy sealer, primer, paint & clear you buy which provides mixing instructions, flash times, and most importantly tip ranges to use. The containers usually have some info but definitely not all you need.
Some suppliers don't have hard copies of the TDS but you should be able to find them online.
Jim
Finished prepping the door jams (more work than I thought), trunk jam and the inside of the trunk for primer. I just have the insides of the doors left and then another huge milestone of prepping 100% of the body is complete.
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Jim
Pretty incredible. The cars look so completely different when they go through body prep. Kudos
Perfect response. I gotta remember this! Nice Challenger and Mustang. What size are the wheels on the Challenger? I like them not too big or too small. As someone who started driving in the 70s, muscle cars with large wheels do not look right to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Andy
Jim,
When you go to paint are you going to remove the body or leave it on the chassis?
I'm a long ways from painting, but find myslef thinking about this a lot. This will also be my first time painting a full car.
Doing a lot of reading on body prep and painting when I'm not in the barn.
Thanks,
Andy
Hi AndyQuote:
Originally Posted by e36m3
I'm priming it as you see it (body on), once final sanding after priming is done, then I'll paint / clear the jams, cowl area, inner hood, inner trunk, inner doors, belly pan, lower portions of the engine covers, inner edges of the front fender and reassemble everything, then paint / clear the whole body in one shot.
It's not for everyone, but this is how I do all my cars. I like painting the panels on the car for a couple reasons:
1) I can guarantee the spray orientation on each panel is the same (yes I know this can be done off the car too if you're careful
2) The way I do it, I don't have to worry about scratching freshly painted individual panels (doors, hood, trunk, engine side panels, etc) when reinstalling them after painting off the car.
Has always worked for me, it's just how I do it.
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36m3
Thanks Andy
The wheels on the 70 Challenger are American Racing Magnum style wheels to mimic the stock versions (A lot of folks if not paying attention think they are stock), they are 15"x7 in the front and 15"x8 in the back, I can't recall tire size off hand besides the fronts are 60's and the rears are 55's but like you said they are not too big, but just right for the car. The stock magnum rims are 14x5....so tiny & skinny, just didn't look right.
Jim
I remember when 55s and 60s looked crazy, real muscle! LOL
Steve
Yup...compared to the 35s I have on the rear of the 33 HR, the 55s & 60s on the challenger look like racing slicks. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Jim
Thanks for all the information Jim. Sorry about the rookie questions. I held an ASE Master Certification for years, before switching to HVAC in the 90's, but no experience with paint and body.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
The Challenger was one of my favorite MOPAR's in the 70's and yours is a very nice example. Why is it there is always one of "those guys" at every car show. It takes an equal amount of time to compliment someone's accomplishments and usually with a better outcome.
Thanks again
Andy
No worries at all Andy, we are all here to help and learn from each other. I'm always learning from everyone on here.Quote:
Originally Posted by HVACMAN
I used to do a ton of car shows with our toys but I only do a few now due to those one or two people who do noting but try to be know it alls.....just takes the fun away.
Yeah, I've alway loved the 70 Challenger.....I bought a new Sublilme Green 2015 Challenger Scat pack in 2015 and after that I knew I needed a 70 since the new style Challengers were designed after the 70. Couldn't find one in decent complete shape without spending big $$$, and then I ran into a woman who husband died and was in the middle of restoring this one. All the metal work was done and in primer stage, just needed paint, top, trim, interior, and power train. Took a solid year going through it and fixing it up.
I get quite a few looks / folks physically stopping on the street to look when I have them both parked in our driveway at home. Here's a shot of them at our storage garage.
Jim
Attachment 145142
Gorgeous Jim!
Love Mopars
Steve
Big milestone met, inner doors are now prepped which completes 100% of the body being prepped for primer. I just need to go through all the panels with filler on them with a super bright light checking for pin holes in the body filler before I prime. Should be able to get through that relatively quickly tonight / tomorrow morning. Still hoping to prime tomorrow.
My 3M PPS 2.0 kit arrived today which should compliment the Fuji Spray system nicely.......I can't wait to try that out.
Then all that is left is to clean up the garage, mask it off and start priming.
Drivers Door:
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Passenger Door:
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Jim
Priming done....I'm going to let it sit a couple days and then start the ever so fun task of final sanding.
Jim
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