Coyote/TKO Drivetrain Prep Started
I was able to start prep. on my Coyote/TKO drivetrain today. The stand Forte supplies are heavy duty and nice. However, they block installation of the starter and motor mounts. I noodled on this for a while and reached out to a couple Coyote forum members for their input. Ultimately, I decided to build a simple wood cradle. Of course, I copied the design from the forum (thanks, Edwardb!).
Before I made the cradle I was resting the motor on scrap 2" x 12" wood blocks. The TKO was also supported by blocks in the rear. However, I just wasn't comfortable with all that weight on the Moroso oil pan. No need to introduce unnecessary risk. I think this is much better.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1645322950
Assembling the motor mounts with the supplied 1/2" spacers was pretty straightforward. I really appreciate F5 powder coating these so I didn't have to. I used an impact driver to pull in the 3/8" x 1.5" carriage bolts, as the square shoulders put up a fight. The build manual does not specify torque for these, so I torqued to 30 ft-lb per the generic torque chart at the back of the manual. It provides recommended torque values for many common size bolts/thread counts. For the 10 MM bolts I torqued to 33 ft-lb--referenced the same chart.
With the Forte stands out of the way there was ample clearance to install the starter. So, checked that task off the list.
Much appreciation to Coyote builders Edwardb and JohnK for letting me bounce off questions on these topics. Very helpful!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1645322950
Front Running Light LED Conversion...Solved
My no-load LED flashers with ground pigtail arrived. I plugged them in and tested, and no more dim, half-hearted LEDs. Now the left and right front turn signals, and hazard-flasher operation work as expected. This puts me at LEDs on all four corners. Boy, those LEDs are bright, and omni-directional! Really glad this isn't turning into an electrical-feedback-ghost chase.
Thanks again to the forum for the valuable input, and to Papa for recommending these (~$12 each): CEC Industries 12V No-load LED Flashers
LED Headlights | Weatherpacks | Tool Chest
The Lumen LED projector headlights arrived: Lumen 7" LED Projector Headlights. I decided to go with LED projector style lights because of the big improvement they provide for night driving. My house is in a rural area, so good headlights are must. And, they come with halo DRLs. The halos will do amber switchback, but I'm not using that feature. The DRLs will increase my visibility to oncoming traffic. Not a bad thing. I know these are not for everyone, but just what I was looking for.
But first, I was able to rebuild my tool budget a bit, so picked up a Husky tool chest. The engine crane was very useful, allowing me to unload it myself.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1646446275
Very handy rolling chest with wood-top work surface. Drawers handle 100 lbs each, and come with cushioned, grip liners. This means I'm "moving-on-up" from my three-drawer Craftsman, which I've been using since the mid-90s. This is a great upgrade for me!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1646446173
I knew I wanted to use Weatherpack connectors on all four corners; however, just wasn't sure about purchasing a quality crimper at $125+. While researching crimpers, I stumbled upon pre-made Weatherpacks through Del City. I was surprised at how low the prices are per unit. And, they come with a 10 inch pigtail. They use 14 gauge, automotive rated wire. Sold. Of course, this means I introduce additional connection points when I solder in the pigtail ends. But, I'm confident on the durability of soldered connections, and it just cost me a little more time.
The four-way connector is for my headlight connection. Since I'm running LED DRLs, I needed the additional wire. Picked up their $6 pin removal tool while I was at it...just in case. :p
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1646446699
Headlights soldered into Weatherpacks, and run through bucket. Man, the wires coming out of the headlight are small. Not easy to work with, but I was able to make solid, soldered connections.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1646446699
Once I was ready to test my wiring I couldn't help myself, and rigged up a way to hold the headlight in place while I tested operation. I'm using one of the two accessory outputs from the Digital Guard Dawg ignition module. This means the DRLs come on automatically when the engine starts, and turn off when ignition turns off. The running light below it still illuminates only with headlight switch. So, for daytime driving headlights will operate in DRL mode. The halo stays on when I turn on the headlights (both for low and high beam). The only bummer is I had to cut off the 3 pin connector, so the five year warranty is probably void.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1646446699
Out of curiosity I measured the halogen and LEDs to see the difference in Amp draw:
- Halogen low beam: 2.7
- LED low beam: 1.77
- Halogen high beam: 4.2
- LED high beam: 3.66
Coyote Cooling Fan Routing - Clearance Question
So, I should have asked before, so hoping I'm okay here. I'm using the Coyote PCM to control cooling fan operation. Routed the orange cooling fan wire from the PCM along the PS upper 3/4" tube down to the bottom of the radiator. Then across to the fan wire connector. (Man, was that plastic two-prong connector a bear to slide together!) I hope I never have to pull it apart and re-connect!
My question is whether there are any clearance concerns from the clamps (red arrows) I fastened to the top of the 3/4" tube. Since the F5 supplied Coyote PCM bracket also attaches to this same tube I assumed it would be okay. Am I good here?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1646681673
Second question: Before I soldered the PCM orange fan wire to the F5 supplied blue fan wire I tested the fan. It works! I can definitely hear it! Granted, it was in my garage with no other competing ambient noise. I had a tip from Fman about his experience with another Cobra owner who runs the Coyote that the noise can be pretty annoying. Anyone with Coyote experience have an opinion on cooling fan noise? I think I read it typically doesn't run much with cruising-type driving around on surface streets, even during warmer summer temps.
Wiring loose ends | Coyote Install Prep Continues
A few minor updates for last week's activities.
I've probably said this a couple time at least, but glad to be doing something different (anything!) than wiring. However, wanted to wrap up a few wiring loose ends on the list. So, as already mentioned (and shown) I secured the front fan wire from the PCM along the top 3/4" tube down to the fan. Then, similar cushioned clamps and rivets to secure the front wiring harness in the same fashion on the DS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1647226597
Then, secured front harness and cooling fan wiring along the bottom of the radiator with cushioned clamps.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1647231833
After that it was back to drivetrain prep. for drop-in. Installed the adapter chains for the oil pressure and water temp. sensors. I used Permatex thread sealant instead of the teflon tape called out in the F5 installation manual. I positioned the oil pressure sensor away from the alternator, and 90 deg. away from where the header will be directly above. Hopefully, this won't be a clearance issue during drivetrain installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1647226391
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1647226391
Then, I decided to tap into coil-on-plug #5. Peeled back about 1/2" of wire and soldered on a purple wire to match the one coming through the firewall from the Speedhut tach. I liked how Edwardb did it on his Gen 3, so I followed suit, including the spade connector. I will wrap it with either 1/4" convolute, electrical tape, or cloth wrap after the drivetrain is in. I already have the Speedhut tach. programmed for 1/2 pulse setting for the coil-on-plug option.
Wire bundle opened up for surgery:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1647226425
All put back together:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1647226425
I ordered the TKO spacer kit from Forte, and decided to powder coat. While I have the powder coating stuff setup, I also PCd the front and rear jack attachments. I tried a new powder called Burnt Toast. It has some texture, and the sheen matches the chassis pretty closely. Before I put everthing away, I'll PC the headlight mounting and trim rings, and the front turn signal trim rings.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1647226425
I made most of the plumbing connections on the motor, so not too much more to do there before drop-in. However, I have a pretty good sized list of other items to complete before drop-in, but at least there's a light at the end of the tunnel for drivetrain install! Pretty excited about it.
How visible are the trunk side panels with body on? Fuel line leaks.
Making progress on my To Do list before drivetrain install, but nothing much to show yet. After finishing up the rear harness install, I started testing the stainless braided fuel lines I made (supplied from Breeze). The return line is leak free, but both ends of the supply line have slow leaks. I'm using the Fragola line test kit. I've gone back and forth with Mark at Breeze, and he thinks the leaks are coming from the tapered metal-to-metal seal between the fitting and the Fragola test plugs. He suggested cinching them just a bit more, but not with the Fragola ends on. See if they leak/seep at final connections, and if so, cinch them just a bit more. He very well may be correct, but I'd much rather prove leak-free connections now, before dropping in the drive train. So, after spending quite a bit of time redoing these connectors from scratch, I decided to step away from this for a bit, and focused on the trunk panels. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.
All of my trunk panels are now fitted and drilled. I made upper side panels as many have done--more on that in my next update. Unsure how visible the trunk side panels are once the body is on, I decided to coat them black. They turned out pretty bad (okay, it's awful!), but I really don't want to spend more time on them unless they are visible with the body on.
Can someone let me know how visible these are with the body on? (This picture is from the F5 build instruction manual).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1649861350
Prep for Drivetrain Install is Winding Down - Part 1
Spring chores were calling my name, so I had to put my toys down, get out of the sandbox, and act like a homeowner for a couple weeks. Now that firewood for next winter is stacked in the woodshed, and Spring weed mitigation is done, I'm back on the build.
On my last update, I mentioned my trouble with minor leaks on both ends of my fuel supply line (return line is leak-free). After consulting Mark at Breeze and the forum here, I'm going to call it good for now. I really don't want to step away from an unresolved issue (especially fuel related!), but not sure what else I can do until I make the final connections and charge the system to the recommended 65 PSI.
While I was noodling on the fuel leak, I installed the trunk side panels. Since these are not very visible once the body is on--thankfully so given my finger-painting level quality--figured it was a good opportunity to try my hand at painting rivets. My daughter, Grace, ran the drill press while I positioned the "rivet holder" (scrap piece of 2"x12") and together we drilled 120 holes. Just deep enough to accommodate 1/8" short and long rivets. I needed about 65 for the trunk side panels, but made up 100 of the short, and 20 of the long to have extras on hand. This is after applying Eastwood Chassis black from a rattle can.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1651772070
You can see the silver centers of the rivets once they're installed, but they certainly stand out less than if they were uncoated.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1651771954
By the way, I've played around a bit with how to keep silicone from hardening after the tube is opened, as I don't typically have enough panel install work at one time to use a whole tube. This plastic cap and plastic wrap combination kept this tube usable for quite some time (at least a couple months). The GE silicone is kind of expensive to be throwing away half-used tubes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1651772070
Next up was to make upper side trunk panels. Following in the footsteps of many on the forum, I bought a 0.040 remnant from my local metal supplier, created a template from a cereal box, and then cut out the panel using my jig saw. Like others, I put down painters blue tape (3M) along the lines I cut. It took me a number of hours to cut out and trim both sides (no surprise here) until they fit decently. Working the panel in between the outer roll bar mount, the upper seat belt mount, and the 3/4" tube is the tricky part. I enlarged the semi-circle opening for greater clearance around the roll bar mount until it slid in easier (not easy, but with less binding).
Panel cut out and drilled.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1651771954
Cleco'd in place. Ready for future installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1651771954
Wanting to close-up all gaps and holes before drivetrain install--difficult to access afterward--I painted and installed the small cover over the hole in the DS of trans tunnel. The black painted rivets came in handy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1651771954
