Beeman, do enjoy your thread as well as seeing the changes that you are making. You are very skilled in my opinion, and you help keep me motivated to work on my car as well.
keep it up.
Steve
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Beeman, do enjoy your thread as well as seeing the changes that you are making. You are very skilled in my opinion, and you help keep me motivated to work on my car as well.
keep it up.
Steve
I agree that seeing other guys moving along motivates me too. I'll try to keep plowing along!
Adjusted the outflow ducting to protect the radiator from tire debris and airflow disruption. Here's a pic at full lock. Will add a partial protective mesh or screen in the small area that's still at risk.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180622/9mkmbab7.jpg
Still need to trim a couple edges, but looks about done. Recommended radiator outflow ducting area is 25% of radiator surface area. I'm at 27%.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180622/gxy8hvzf.jpg
The small gaps will have weatherstripping. Should be efficient and aerodynamic.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180624/54pyjx22.jpg
This thing is starting to take shape - very cool! Not that I have to remind you, but you accounted for suspension travel (up & down)Quote:
Originally Posted by beeman
when checking your clearance correct?
I like that double rad setup; I think you and Dave are the only GTM's on this site with that feature?
Yes, sir. I have about 20mm of clearance minimum at all steering angles and suspension travel. Here's a pic I found that gives you an idea of the clearance. Edit: looking at the pic, I think that I bent the rear edge of that side piece in giving me even more clearance than the picture shows, I'll try to remember to take another.Quote:
Originally Posted by Procision-Auto
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180625/rii9f8cs.jpg
Dave Fraser is the only other twin-radiator builder that I'm aware of. And he was very helpful with questions I had. And he's pretty handy with aluminum TIG as well ;)
Still going to have a front trunk, but the fixed front fenders were not giving me good vibes about front suspension access. So will have a fixed front fascia/forward part of wheel arch, tilting hood with attached fenders. Along the lines of a Koenigsegg Regera but with a forward tilting hood.
https://www.uscarsnews.com/wp-conten...era-Engine.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180630/9cmqb7wa.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180630/8bud79ae.jpg
Not much traffic on here so I'll post a small update...
Honda turn signal /wiper stalks, GM column, so the Honda unit was free floating. Easy fix with the printer.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180708/luewqa5z.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180708/5zikazxj.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180708/ijggp5li.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180708/5txixiwg.jpg
Time to get the front finished
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180708/oh8trllm.jpg
Got a little sidetracked
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180713/is92wnvl.jpg
Side project about done.. Any guesses?
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180715/ad24zjv9.jpg
I would say looks like harness bar, but not really thinking that is correct.
I have no idea, but whoever you strap into that isn't getting out. :)
Ha, it IS a harness bar but I would never trust my life to it!
A clue : looking forward to the Nurburgring!
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180715/ptu3hx56.jpg
Ha, it's for your race simulator.
You got it! Voyage to my basement for final assembly! The harness isn't just for eye candy ;)
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180716/7892keh5.jpg
Now that looks like fun!!!!
Sheesh..... now you've gotten me interested in racing simulators.
Wouldja just get back to building your car please? :cool:
Don't build one if you can't discipline yourself to stay away from it! Lots of setting up, so far I've driven a 427 Cobra in Belgium. With VR headset, force feedback wheel, Fanatec pedals, and motion seat it's weird taking the headset off and finding out I'm still in the basement!Quote:
Originally Posted by dallas_
Had a seat upholsterer come by to modify my seats to sit lower.
Time to get the nervous system put in...
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180722/2pnu5xjq.jpg
Shifter cables should be here tomorrow from CMS.
Figured I'd get the hood bonded together, so I can cut it up again!
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180804/wv6l29uk.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180804/ifxadltn.jpg
Shifter cables done, feels great!
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180808/ob9mdhxz.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180808/g6ofgy5d.jpg
Finally got the front end glassed together. I found that the cheap $.99 'survival blankets' from Walmart work well for a liner on the table for wetting out the fiberglass and protecting surfaces on the car. Kind of a foil, more of a mylar? Cheap, durable, and very large.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180811/8s27imen.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180811/jrrwylox.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180811/m9c5ebd7.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180811/jdkghqjj.jpg
Getting ready to run coolant hard pipes outside the cockpit. So it will be a ton easier to do each side in 2 segments with a small coupler somewhere along the side of the chassis, otherwise there will be some very complex bending going on. Anyone see any issues with 2 segments instead of one? Would probably be more resistant to vibration damage as well?
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180812/txnlj9d2.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180812/otkgdfcp.jpg
You're Getting There, One Itchy Fiberglass Layout At A Time!
Good Luck!
No problem at all with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeman
Good progress!
As I think you discovered, the only way to bend thin wall aluminum tubing is with a mandrel bender. We buy pre bent sections and then weld them together. Your aluminum welding skills have to be pretty sharp to get no leaks, but it is really the only practical way to do hard piping bends unless you happen to have or know of someone close to you that has a mandrel bender. Many times we will try and just use straight sections of hard tube and then use silicone elbows where bends are needed. An added bonus is that with this method, since we go to the track regularly, it is much easier to carry spares and to do repairs with the straight tube and silicone elbow method.
For those that do not know what a "mandrel bender" is, it differs from a regular tubing bender in that it has a mandrel that goes INSIDE the tube and essentially provides a dolly for the inside of the material while it is being bent to insure no kinking or deformation during bending. The poor mans way of doing this is to pack the tube with sand, weld the ends shut, then bend the tube and the sand will not allow for a change in volume, thus helping control any kinking or deformation. Again, just not very practical if you want the project done in a reasonable amount of time.
Yeah, I tried on my JD2 tube bender, went very slow, lubed with white lithium, outside looked perfect, inside bend was all jacked up...
I'm using off the shelf oem type rubber hoses, do you think it's worth upgrading to silicone?
As long as you are running a 15 lbs cooling system or less, the rubber hoses should be fine. Also, since you have a pretty custom setup with lots of connections, I think even if I was eventually going to go silicone, if I was you I would build everything out of rubber first as any "redos" along the way will be much cheaper.
I agree with crash. Obviously, bead the tubing and use good clamps. That's worked for me so far.
A few updates. Have an order into VRaptorSpeedworks for some fuel parts, then I'll get the tanks in.
Had some cooler weather a few days ago so I got some glass on the undersurface of the hood.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180827/k7bfhflf.jpg
Started the new aluminum paneling.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180827/gry2e7pf.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180827/5ewu2pha.jpg
Installed the CTS-V alternator.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180827/a63fdkns.jpg
Got the clutch line done too.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180827/egb7984n.jpg
I was so close to throwing in the towel on the dual radiators, I wanted completely ducted fans but realized it was going to be a painful time-consuming process to get that done, and I would have had to go with a smaller fan. So I simplified the whole thing by mounting the SPAL fans directly to the radiator (actually to the frame adjacent to the radiators). Should work almost as well as a fully ducted fan.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180827/xutn6e48.jpg
Got the cooling system finished. Per my other post, I could not bend the tubing more than about 10-20 degrees without kinking, but was able to make some gentle bends where required.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180827/r4xku25v.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180827/36a7mvf9.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180827/pu79lmca.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180827/uco8qpmj.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180827/kf7wkr4e.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180827/par77qf8.jpg
Just so you are aware, while those flex lines are easy, they absolutely kill the flow rates. My recommendation to all builders is to avoid those if at all possible.
Got my e-brake and cables done, Wilwood 330-9371 Emergency Brake Cable Kit, Honda e-brake handle. I like how inconspicuous the e-brake handle is now compared to the bulky C5 mechanism.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/181007/qudsx83g.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/181007/pcrljwpw.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/181007/5gx3e9vs.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/181012/p9bnat92.jpg
Let me know if anyone wants to buy a set of aluminum gas tanks, brand new.
Got the fuel tanks done. Step 1: buy the crossover gasket kit from vraptorspeedworks.
I used a 1" wood bit, worked great. Then used a heat gun to soften the edges of the hole slightly so I could thread the AN fitting into the plastic. I would wager that the seal was fuel-tight after this step even before putting the gasket and nut on the back side.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/181014/9sh9n3dw.jpg
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/181014/in37uarv.jpg
Then I plastic welded the unused fittings closed.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/181014/unohnbsa.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/181014/ya96peg7.jpg
Got my seat back from the upholsterer, he replaced the seat foam with a softer foam in the upper layer so my butt is 2" lower.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/181015/she89fuz.jpg
Lookin' good!!
We love watching this project. Wish mine was moving along like yours.
Thanks guys, still a ways to go. I'm looking forward to seeing updates on the GTM-R too, Mike. Finishing up the body mounting, just about have the passenger side done.
I decided to reverse the door latches, the receivers are on the chassis with the strikers on the doors. My door bars are high enough that my door release pull-straps are at the typical location even though they are on the chassis. So here's my exterior door handle.
http://fs1.directupload.net/images/181029/ued25my6.jpg
That's cool. I had also thought about putting a handle under there. That looks like a Miata piece?
Yes, Gen 1 Miata. Nice, simple, compact.
Nicely tucked up in there. I have aspiration of putting some type of touch sensor under there so as I walk up to the car with an RFID or key FOB, I can just run my finger over the secrete spot and the door pops open.