Sweet!
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Sweet!
awesome
who does it belong to??
Co-workers, they run endurance races in Miata nowQuote:
Originally Posted by Rotorcraft
I went out to the track this morning with the center dive 818 folks, the track was wet, cold and icy (28 degrees this morning). Car fabrication was great, really nice ideas and custom parts. No issues with engine or oil temps, running a detuned JDM EJ207v8 engine (dyno @ 220/220) as the new ST3 class rules call for 10:1, car weighs in at 1850 dry, so 2100 wet (driver but no fuel).
They had the redneck wind tunnel set up, will have to see the video after.
So seems there are 818 R out there that don't have all the drama and troubles/issues. Car will need a muffler and additional aero work but this was it's first shake down to make sure nothing fell off or broke.
Attachment 49530 Attachment 49531 Attachment 49532 Attachment 49533 Attachment 49534
Here is a picture of the rear exhaust louvers installed (secured to body)
Attachment 49535
That looks great, even though it's a little lower than center. Looks smaller than 3", but I'm sure it's 3.
The center-drive car looks good. Almost kicking myself for not doing it. Seriously thought about it.
The detuned JDM EJ207v8 engine @ 220/220 is barely breaking a sweat. Could easily be NA. I don't think it compares to ST2 cars though I do agree that they should be fairly drama-free. It's when you get up around 360 that you have to be careful and not use stock pistons... around 270-280 WHP should be easy.
Yea the off center was AJW Performance, I did not want to have to go through the hassle of changing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Here is the first start since getting the engine (JDM EJ207v7) so on the home stretch now ... Engine pegged the oil pressure gauge at over 100 PSI
http://vid521.photobucket.com/albums..._48_12_Pro.mp4
Nice job Tony. :) Glad to see you in the home stretch
Congrats on the start up. Can't wait to see you at the track this year. And I hope to get a close look at the center-drive 818 sometime too!
I've been intrigued by a center drive set up for some time. Do you know what 90 degree steering rack they used? A picture of the front end/rack would really be great.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
The rack was made local, I believe it was designed from the Ford Spec Racer (FSR) that he also drives, lots of frame modifications were required, excellent craftsmanship.Quote:
Originally Posted by 129st
I got to spend some time this weekend on the car, here is the progress I made:
Steering wheel install
Attachment 50012
I also complete rear deck lid vent and installed the mini latches
Attachment 50013 Attachment 50014 Attachment 50015
I installed the hood large vents also
Attachment 50016 Attachment 50017
I order some trim for the headlights and finished that up (even though its a race car I did not want the head lights rubbing on the fiberglass fender)
Attachment 50018 Attachment 50019 Attachment 50020 Attachment 50021
I also finished the rear bottom louver, thanks to VRaptor and Shane's excellent design work
Attachment 50022 Attachment 50023 Attachment 50024
Looking great! Can't wait to see some track videos come spring.
The off center exhaust isn't really noticeable anymore with the vent around it. Instead of seeing that it's off center, your eyes are drawn to it being on center with the pattern. I might go back to using mine now.
Nice work. Can't wait to see that machine in person!
Very Nice.
Looking good Tony. Dude...........That thing is going to be too nice to race. Those first rock chips are going to be painful.
Nice work! I really like the louvers and the vents in the rear, but, like Steve said, it's too nice to race! Maybe add some chips in the paint and some duct tape. :)
Really nice all that.
What OD size the mini's? 1.25 or 1.5"?
I went with the 1.5" and also the 5/16 stud/pin and also added the return springsQuote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
The springs, these?
http://www.quik-latch.com/mini-latch-assist-spring.html
They give a better feel or they help latch the panels? I mean what advantage of using them? I'm still debating.
I got the heavy duty ones, as they raise/pop the panel up for easier removal well worth the cost if you want quicker removalQuote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Cool! I'll order a couple 20lbs, tnx for the input!
We went with the minis, don't do it for quick removal, we are replacing them with sprung (or I might just insert a spring).
Had a day to spend over the weekend, so I installed the Crawford Air-oil-separator and the Killer-B Oil Control Valve, thanks to Mitch it's all mounted and plumbed. I had to het it high enough so that it would drain back to crankcase, so had to go in one of one the humps. Only thing left to plumb is the AOS to the OCV as I did not have a 12AN nipple fitting.
Attachment 50200
Looks like you are just about good to go.
I finished up the AOS and the OCV as I was waiting for the M22 fitting to AN10 line for the OCV
Attachment 50334
5 acronyms in one sentence, you get the Mr. Mom award.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
https://youtu.be/iX3kxAA2L4Q
Tony,
I like where you mounted your OCV, when I have nothing else to do I might have to move mine.
LOL good catch Bob.
Splitter mount and radiator tunnel seal
So I wanted to run without fans but needed to make I had a way to force air through the radiator and not let the are travel through various places in the front of the car causing other undesirable aero effects. I also wanted to make sure that the splitter was mounted well (as I don't like the struts mounted outside)
Here are the aluminum pieces that are needed
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...23_Pro%201.jpg
So added a black plate to block off air flow. The top piece is contoured to fit the hood to seal off air. I'm using Zero Decibel's large hood louvers and the block off plate comes just behind the louvers, so that worked out very nicely.
Attachment 50726
Next needed to add bottom plate to cover up the steering rack area and force air to back plate, up and out the hood lovers
Attachment 50728
Next needed to add side plate. FFR supplied some side plates but not intended to seal, so I cut the FFR supplied side panels
Attachment 50729
Added new side panels with supports for the splitter
Attachment 50730 Attachment 50731
add bottom panel before the radiator to force air from splitter bottom up to radiator
Attachment 50732
Mount splitter and seal off area around where splitter meets the body. Splitter is out 2" from front bumper.
Attachment 50733 Attachment 50734
Put the body back together
Attachment 50735 Attachment 50736
Many thanks to Leo (center drive 818) for cutting aluminum
Thanks for the photo's Tony, parallel minds.
I love both these builds!
I think you should bring it to ORP for the April 2nd ACCO track day, $140. Cheapest track a day in North America.
http://www.motorsportreg.com/events/...3#.Vqr9GK_SlPY
I'm also a member of the ORP Track Club if you want a nearly private track session. Lots of days coming up for those too.
Since I will not be using a hinge on the rear hump lid, I need a way to add a mini latch to keep it held down, so here is the mount for the mini latch stud. I will also be cutting the hump lid side tabs off and mounting them to the body and thus don't have to mess around trying to get the lid on and off.
Attachment 50798 Attachment 50799
Neat idea... I wouldn't have thought of that.
Exactly what we did, we just went a step further by making the hump piece and the trunk lid one piece
That's a good idea too.... would be really cool to have both of those one piece and hinged at the back. Sounds like a new product idea for Mike or Mechie!
I looked that this since taking just the rear deck off does not give me much access, I'm always taking off both lids so I may also bond the rear deck lid and the hump lids together now that hump lid is easy to get on/off only concern that I have is I have the wing mount coming out of the rear deck lid, whereas you have the wing mount aft of the rear deck lidQuote:
Originally Posted by RetroRacing