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You are right. I need to move . I was asking FFR today about teeing a line for the brake booster and they said not to do that and instead use that port for vacuum. I asked where do I get water temp? The one they told me to use is being taken by the Sniper. They said that there is a port on the radiator. There is not. There is another port on the front of the manifold that is not on a riser. Is that one ok?
I think you have a Blueprint 347" like I do, and their 4-barrel intake manifold. Mine has two temp ports in the front of the engine: one in the manifold itself, and one in the thermostat housing itself. I think either would be acceptable.
Ralph
Today was a productive day as I knock items off the list for first fire. To close off the above thread, I had a great discussion with Dan at FFR. He agreed that the second diagram is acceptable. His only issue is that the circuit would be running two relays. He said that is not typical, but the only issue would be diagnosing problems in the future would be more difficult, as you won’t just be able to swap a relay to know it’s bad. I am not worried about this, so I am moving forward with this solution, after the first start up.
The first task of the day was to get the fuel lines connected. I struggled with the instructions because the FFR instructions did not match the Sniper 2 ones. I spoke with FFR and they said that the instructions they have with their kit are for an older version and that I should go with the Sniper 2 manual. That is fuel directly to Sniper and then the regulator only gets the return line. He said to make sure to adjust the pressure with Sniper disabled. The Sniper manual mentions the same thing. Done! After a long search through the BP connectors I found the plug for the extra port is included.:)
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Next was to install the radiator. I chose to add the Breeze shroud to be safe as well as the upper radiator hose. I have read about issues with the plastic one failing. It went in easy and the radiator install was was simple except there is very little room to drill holes for the screws on the upper mount. Wish that flange was about a 1/2” wider, but I got it done. The drill catches the edge of the bracket and causes the radiator to jump. I clamped it right next to the hole to finish the job. The bottom bracket is fine. Used rivet nuts to secure it. Tomorrow just need to add the rest of the stainless hose.
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Next was the power steering. There are no instructions and FFR said it’s left as an exercise to the builder. You get a bunch of connectors in a bag and two very long ss hoses. After some research I was able to get it plumbed. The pump has a high pressure outlet. I tried several connectors until I tried the shiny one and it worked. It is ?? male-male 6AN. The low pressure outlet is just a 3/8 hose connector. On the rack the dull connector with a white o-ring fit the high pressure outlet(red) and I had to buy a 1/4 NPT to 3/8 hose connector for the low pressure side. Next was trying to connect it all. The hose was no issue, but both SS lines were too long with the wrong connectors. So I ended up making my own with two 90s. Done!
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Next I proceeded to swap out the water temp for a vacuum line. I used 3/8 100 psi fuel line to connect the brake booster.
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Finally I relocated the water temp. Tomorrow I should be doing my first start. Very exciting!
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What's the "home crimping" solution you're using for the fuel/vacuum line? Looks good, and looking forward to the startup video!
The PS connections on a Fox body Mustang rack are 9/16″ and 5/8″ O-Ring style. Best results will be with both being that type. Not NPT. Looks like that's what you have in the high pressure side. For the other side, that's not the right type of connector but maybe it will work since it's low pressure. Keep an eye on it when the system is up to pressure. Typically our builds are -6AN on both sides and the correct O-Ring connectors should have been included in your kit and also are widely available, e.g. Breeze and others. On a side note, don't overtighten the O-Ring connectors. Just "firm." Easy to crush/deform the O-Ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Hopefully today! Here they are. https://a.co/d/4etATF6 had them from some Porsche repairs I had to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickshank
Is this for the heater? For startup I can just connect these two together as a bypass? Thanks.
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I guess I can leave this for the start. I can’t run it like this !?!??
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Today started really promising and I thought I would be able to make some noise. But what started out as promising ended in wasted effort and frustration.
I needed to finish three things; cooling system, Fuel Pump wiring, & Exhaust. First was to connect the radiator hoses. I measured and went off to the auto part store to look at hoses. I got some candidates and headed home. Problem for me is a trip to the store is 1 hour round trip + shopping time. So I avoid it if I can. The top radiator hoses fit fine. I’m adding a picture if it in case anyone wants to use it. Unfortunately the bottom hose fit but was backwards. Meaning the larger opening was on the radiator side. Live and learn. So I tried my hand at making one using the kit supplied components. I think it came out well. We’ll see if it works! I used the tips from a post by JeffK and added screws to avoid blowout and silicone to the adapters. Fingers crossed it holds up.
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I tried to mount the overflow tank. Bit of advice. If you want to mount it on the inside rail, do it before engine install. There is little room to drill and no room for my rivet nut tool. I chose to zip tie until I can buy some long 1/4 bolts to use instead of rivet nuts. I then tried to install a heater hose bypass. I needed some parts so I moved on to the next task.
I removed the rivets in the fuse panel, was going to replace those with rivet nuts anyway. Cut the orange switched power input wire to the fuel pump relay and replaced it with the sniper blue wire.
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I then started on the exhaust. I added anti-seize to the bolts and tightened them. There is no room for a socket on half the bolts. I ended up grinding this wrench to make it thin enough to reach all the bolts. They are as tight as I could make them with this small wrench. https://a.co/d/is4xmqz After tightening I added the Stage 8 components.
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I decided to skip the side pipes and start on the heater bypass. This where the frustration set in…
I called BP for support on what to do with the heater line. Their answer was for me to call CVF Racing, supplier of the front drive, to get an answer/solution. According to BP, the engine is dyno’d and then the assembly is added after. Do they do not test it?!??? That can’t be right. CVF was pretty condescending since I could not provide a part # or name of what “I purchased”. Even though I kept telling them it was part of a BP package.. Eventually they agreed to an email of the engine and issue.
I decided that I needed to just make an adapter. So off to the store for components. Suffice is to say several hours later and several failed attempts I gave up and simply added a crimped bypass hose to get me past this hurdle. This won’t work as the ultimate solution so I’ll be dealing with support teams tomorrow. I never did get to installing the side pipes.
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Here is an explanation of my issue. Anyone else with AC & PS run into this and find a solution?
The heater outlet on the water pump is pointing directly at the alternator.
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I thought I could build an adapter to go around it. But after much trial and error, I discovered there is just not enough room to build it where you leave enough space to secure the fittings AND be small enough to make the bends needed.
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There would be plenty of room if I could move the alternator over. I think that may be the ultimate solution. Getting a longer serpentine belt. Do they sell pre-bent heater hoses like they do with radiators? So frustrating! You spend a ton of cash so you get something that is supposed to be plug-and-play. You expect these kind of issues when you buy seperate components yourself..
I answered my own question. This may work. https://a.co/d/2pHqFmK
Rick, sorry you're going through this. In the past when I've needed to solve hose problems, I'm taken the measurements/drawing and a tape measure to the local auto parts store. Usually trying to find the "most experienced" member of the team to let me look at the hose assortment.
Following closely as I'm picking my kit + 347 up next week. No clue if it's the same front drive, as it's Blueprint through Forte Parts.
It’s a new day! It takes a lot for me to get upset. The main cause was my interaction with CVF Racing support. I was hoping for “you have our part xxx, you need yyy”. The more I think about it, I have no relationship with them and they have no incentive to help me. I should not be dealing with them. Going to speak with BP and see if they can speak with them and find a solution.
Thanks, @rickshank I ordered the part above. I’ll let you know if it fits or if I get answer from BP.
I'd say a longer turnbuckle or heim joints, combined with a longer serpentine belt would give you the room you need for a 90 degree elbow hose.
Greg
I've had a few interactions with Blueprint but have never purchased anything from them. Recently I inquired with them about building me a 427 SBC short block for my 68 Camaro. They said they can't do something like that, basically if it's not in their catalog they're not interested. BP are a huge company and pump many, many engines out the door every day so nothing custom or special. I'm not being negative towards BP, that's just their business model.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
I inquired with Prestige Motorsports and found these guys to be great. Much smaller company and will pretty much build to order whatever I want. And at a very fair price, a little less than I can buy all of the parts for. Forte is the same way and a super nice guy.
FWIW
I’ve had a far different experience with Blueprint. Once I spoke to James who is the FFR contact person, he took my order and was nothing but easy, professional and a pleasure to deal with. He answers emails and the phone when I call. I would not hesitate to do business with Blueprint, this is my second engine from them. To each his own decision.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
I'm not surprised as you were ordering a standard item from them. For something custom like I was looking for it's not their business model. Just like Summit. That was my point, nothing against the company or how they do business. And FWIW, they were fast to respond to my inquiry and friendly in how they said no.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
My experience prior to this had been amazing. I also worked with James for my order. I just got off the phone and spoke to James. He asked me to send him an email with all the details and he’ll have his tech guy figure it out with CVF. Fingers crossed. I am on the final checklist to fire this afternoon! Do you guys have your checklist handy? Just to make sure. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
Rick, here is a pic of my 427, I have a ton of clearance. Not sure if this helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
You have AC/PS?
Update on the above. BP and CVF believe I got the wrong belt/heim joint. They are still discussing…
Today I finished final assembly before starting to fire the engine. I filled the transmission with ATF. I got this pump at the auto part store. It worked really well. BTW when I asked for a square socket to remove the filler plug, I got the strangest look from the clerk. He said you mean the one where you use a 3/8 ratchet? I did not know that! :)
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Here is the only spot I found to mount the overflow tank. It does not fit where the instructions state. I believe it would, but the Breeze shroud is taking that space.
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The last step was to install the side pipes. It went pretty smoothly. It looks like the hangers are more robust. They went together smoothly. I searched the manual for the instructions and could not find anything. Turns out they were not in the version I printed. They are in version M. The mounts are supposed to attach to a panel on the frame. Mine did not align, but it could be that my angle on the collector is bad. I’m going to wait to drill the holes until I can adjust with the body on. Is there a trick to tightening those bolts? You can’t get a socket on there and you need serious torque to tighten them.
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So ready to fire.
Step 1: Directly run fuel pump and adjust Fuel pressure to 55-65 PSI. There is a lock nut on the top off the regulator. Loosen it and you use an Allen wrench to raise/lower pressure. I set it to 60 PSI.
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Step 2. Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over to prime the oil system. Remember to jumper the clutch safety switch…. Nothing happened. It was a horrible feeling. All I got was a grinding sound that sounds like a woodpecker. I need to call BP tomorrow. Man I hope it’s a simple fix. Any ideas? Here is a video of the sound.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7EU02cJYb...R-hZBo2dxH0KF5
Couple of things: on the socket wrench to remove the filler plug. Yeah. Been there. I asked myself the question in my head about six times until I figured I would try a socket wrench. You don’t know if you don’t know but now you know, you know? It’s part of the journey.
Overflow… yep. Same issue. I ended up going with an aftermarket tank and crafting a bracket. Mine is centered near the center line of my fan. Check my build thread if you want details.
Regarding the first start. Feel your pain.
I’m no expert but it sounds to me like the starter is turning over but not engaging the flywheel…. Did you install the starter and is it the right nose length to engage your motor? Does it come out if you energize it?
Thanks, I’ll check it out. It came assembled from BP.Quote:
Originally Posted by danmas
I thought BP engines came pre-primed. Maybe not.
Greg
They are dyno’d, but step 1 in their instructions is to prime it.
I’m not either, but I agree. That’s what it sounds like. Hard to believe it’s seized. Need to watch some shimming videos…Quote:
Originally Posted by danmas
Sounds like your battery was low on juice to me. But what do I know. ��
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
Low battery or bad solenoid. Starter is not turning.
Jeff
Measure your battery with a multi meter. I'll bet you have 10v or less. Or just charge it and move on if that's not an option.
As far as your side pipes you have the ball flange at the collector, I would think you could walk your pipes back toward the car with those? Looks like it needs to come up and then back toward the chassis.
That seems much more likely given that it’s a bp installed starter… simple fix if so….
I was able to turn the motor pretty easily. Phew! Battery is showing 13v. I used my expedition battery with cables to double check. Same result. I’m waiting for a “master tech” to call. I was going to pull the starter and check the gears but was told to wait for a call. While I was waiting I installed the throttle cable and made engine noises…
Thanks, they are on loosely for 1st start. I’ll adjust once the body is on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzboy54
For those who were betting on electrical issues you were correct. The tech watched the video and said it was the starter not engaging. I explained the setup and what I had done/tested. He did not like the daisy-chain style of grounding the battery to the block. I suggested running a jumper cable directly to the starter mounting bolt and he agreed it’s a good place to start. I did it, but decided to disconnect it and try one more time to make sure the issue was happening before applying a fix to test. (My engineering background showing) And… it worked?!?!? Relief!!! He said that the issue is a bad ground and would probably come back. So I bought a long battery cable and connected the battery negative directly to the starter bolt and then a strap from there to the frame. Hopefully this is behind me.
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I then installed the throttle cable. I clamped the accelerator pedal to the front wall to simulate full throttle and used that to set the throw. I used this bracket. https://a.co/d/8PRfbd1
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I did have to redo the power steering lines. I had them backwards. Since the red cap was on the high-pressure side of the pump, I thought it corresponded to the red cap on the rack. Nick at FFR pointed out I had them backwards! Once I did that all the fittings needed WERE provided with the kit. I ended up using the provided SS line because there was no room to go direct with the cable I made. I had to pass through the wheel well and secured the cable to make sure there was no rubbing with the tire.
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I topped off the radiator with 1 gallon of AF and one gallon of distilled water. How do I make sure the engine has coolant? Spin the motor for a bit until the level stops going down? Thanks for all the help!!
I’m super happy for you. I have like 7 grounds. Might add a few more. Regarding cooling I wouldn’t over think that. Slop some coolant in your system. Crank it out. You won’t run it for long on your first start and coolant is a tomorrow problem.
Rick - great news! So your battery is grounded now both to frame and to the starter bolt?
How did you select the linkage bracket?
Great progress, looking forward to that 347 firing up!
-Rick
Nice work. A few strategically placed grounds and you're good to go. You don't need to go crazy with them. Too many ground straps can be counterproductive if improperly placed.
Open the petcock at the top of the radiator and remove the temperature sender that's in the thermostat housing. Fill until coolant comes out of the radiator petcock then close it and continue filling until it comes out of the port that had the sender. Reinstall the sender and fill until coolant is at the top of the "T" filler. Start it up and top it off as it goes down while warming up when the thermostat opens. Cap it and let the recovery tank do it's job.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Jeff
Thanks all!