Fmans Dart 427 build #9818 - 14" Leather steering wheel

When I drilled the trunk holes I had a large chip happen. I was not really too concerned about it because it is in the trunk, but I found some liquid chrome that did a great job of hiding the chip. This stuff can be used to touch up any chip in chrome on the car or your roll bar. Simple to use and easy to apply.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1611634654

After the liquid chrome touch up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1611634684

Here is a link to liquid chrome I ordered

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1611634703

I like the cup holders, I have similar. I think you will find that they will blow out, I don't think the "O" rings will hold them in. If they do, here is the fix I did after mine blew out and went flying... Click Here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BadAsp427

I like the cup holders, I have similar. I think you will find that they will blow out, I don't think the "O" rings will hold them in. If they do, here is the fix I did after mine blew out and went flying... Click Here.

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Carl, great idea... thanks for sharing. Definitely do not want a cup holder flying out! Looks like a couple clamps are going to be in my future.

With all the rain happening not much to do other than work on the Cobra. I wanted to get my spinners on the wheels, I picked up some Spinner Eaze and Silicon O rings to help with the install. I also did some more "pre" wiring while the body is off. I ran my all my wires for the reverse light, third brake light and front aux/fog light. Much easier doing this now then after the body is on.

Torqued all lug nuts to specs and installed spinners I did phone a friend (Vspeeds, BB767) to confirm I was installing them the correct direction. Thanks Eddie and Brian for the help!:D I have them on hand tight right now did not want to go crazy tight with them. Also did not use the set screw not 100% sure about using it. Have heard set screw could gal the threads, maybe someone can confirm if I should use it?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1611807119
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1611807132

Cobra Valley Spinner Eaze and Silicon O rings
http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...innereaze.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or

Silicon O rings from Theoringstore.com
S70329 : AS568-329 S70 FDA Silicone (VMQ) 70 Duro O-Ring

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1611807160
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1611807174

If you are wanting a reverse light to pass inspection here is the location for the TKo600 with the adaptor. If I am not mistaken I believe this adaptor plug will also work with a T-5.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890108

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1611807190

Fman. I've read not to use the set screws and, as a result, I have never used them. I just tighten by hand and give them a light whack with a rubber mallet. After a few drives, tap them again with the mallet. If any move, whack them a little more. Not scientific, but seems to work and you will shortly get a feel for how much you need to keep them tight. They should tighten opposite the direction of rotation of the car moving forward. If I remember correctly, tighten in the direction of the rear of the car.

The O-rings make the assembly process much easier. I used anti-seize ln the threads of mine. However, I will be switching to the Spinner Eaze next time I have to take my wheels off.

looking good Travis!! what are you doing for a reverse light?

yes, with all this rain and wind, should be building a boat ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TMartinLVNV

Fman. I've read not to use the set screws and, as a result, I have never used them. I just tighten by hand and give them a light whack with a rubber mallet. After a few drives, tap them again with the mallet. If any move, whack them a little more. Not scientific, but seems to work and you will shortly get a feel for how much you need to keep them tight. They should tighten opposite the direction of rotation of the car moving forward. If I remember correctly, tighten in the direction of the rear of the car.

The O-rings make the assembly process much easier. I used anti-seize ln the threads of mine. However, I will be switching to the Spinner Eaze next time I have to take my wheels off.

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Terry, thanks for the clarification on the set screw.

Here is the way I have them mounted, basically forward to take off, towards rear of the car to tighten. Hopefully this is correct:D I will give them a light tap and call it good. I have loosened them once just to make sure they release and they broke away pretty easily. I just used a small spread of the spinner eaze on the threads, directions say it does not take much. Stuff is kind of goopy and messy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1611883718

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

looking good Travis!! what are you doing for a reverse light?

yes, with all this rain and wind, should be building a boat ;)

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Hi Todd, I picked up these lights. I will mount one right under the bottom center of the car. These are not DOT approved but I read a post where someone used them in CA and passed light inspection. Not sure if I will keep them after inspection is done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also opened up my door panel package from Cobra Herb, I sent him some pieces of my leather hyde I am using on the car (dash, center console) to match up to interior. He did a really nice job on these and they will be a perfect match.

These are his "standard" panel

https://cobra-herb.tripod.com/

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1611883735

"Here is the way I have them mounted, basically forward to take off, towards rear of the car to tighten. Hopefully this is correct "

You got it!

It helps to understand why the spinners are reverse threaded on the right side of the car. The spinning motion of the wheels will tend to tighten the left side as they turn forward, but on the right side it would tend to loosen them because the forward motion acts in the same direct as loosening a right hand thread, thus a left hand thread is used. My first car was British and had wire wheels with knock off hubs and my dad was certain that I would loose a wheel at some point, so he hammered this point home.

As far as treatment of the spinners go, I use the o-ring, the set screw, no lube and a dead blow hammer to tighten. I figure as long as the threads are kept clean of corrosion they will do fine. The set screw has not done any real damage to the threads and in 3500 miles I’ve never had a spinner come lose or refuse to come off when I needed it too.

BTW, those door panels are one of the best purchases I made, very handy!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

It helps to understand why the spinners are reverse threaded on the right side of the car. The spinning motion of the wheels will tend to tighten the left side as they turn forward, but on the right side it would tend to loosen them because the forward motion acts in the same direct as loosening a right hand thread, thus a left hand thread is used. My first car was British and had wire wheels with knock off hubs and my dad was certain that I would loose a wheel at some point, so he hammered this point home.

As far as treatment of the spinners go, I use the o-ring, the set screw, no lube and a dead blow hammer to tighten. I figure as long as the threads are kept clean of corrosion they will do fine. The set screw has not done any real damage to the threads and in 3500 miles I’ve never had a spinner come lose or refuse to come off when I needed it too.

BTW, those door panels are one of the best purchases I made, very handy!

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Totally makes sense, although it is a little confusing when you first get everything set up. Good to know about the set screw, I might use that and just snug it up.

I am still really impressed with Cobra Herb and how good of a job he did on the panels. And I can see that pouch is going to come in handy for small items. I feel like I have some basic necessity items covered with this car, I can hold a Venti Coffee in my cup holder, turn on heated seats and storage pockets in my door panels :D Life is good!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

BTW, those door panels are one of the best purchases I made, very handy!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fman

I am still really impressed with Cobra Herb and how good of a job he did on the panels. And I can see that pouch is going to come in handy for small items.

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Okay, fine, adding that to the build plan. Good thing this is a hobby and not a project with a budget ... :rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Ibele

Okay, fine, adding that to the build plan. Good thing this is a hobby and not a project with a budget ... :rolleyes:

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As soon as you press the order button for a FFR Cobra the word budget is never thought about or discussed again! just remember you cant take it with you....:D

And those door panels are well worth the $160 Cobra Herb charges.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fman

As soon as you press the order button for a FFR Cobra the word budget is never thought about or discussed again! just remember you cant take it with you....:D

And those door panels are well worth the $160 Cobra Herb charges.

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if you're lucky, you might catch one of Herb's flash sales. he'll give a discount for the first 10-20 people who respond to his post. that's how I got mine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Ibele

Okay, fine, adding that to the build plan. Good thing this is a hobby and not a project with a budget ... :rolleyes:

---

X2 on the panels. I looked at his website, and may consider the wider versions. Very similar in price, We'll see once I get closer to that part of my build.

And, yeah, to quote Sir Paul (and others), "Budget...what budget?!?"

I figured it was a good idea to have some type of extinguisher in this car, with my profession I have seen plenty of cars catch on fire and burn to the ground. At very least better to have a fighting chance of extinguishing a small fire. Hopefully I never have to use it.

I chose to go with this 1lb H3R with a Goldfire quick release bracket, it has a cool looking billet PULL lever on top and seems to be well made. With the breeze cubby storage it was a tight squeeze but I think it will work. The Pull lever does stick up about 1/2" into the storage area but I believe there is still plenty of room to get items in and out of the cubby hole. I also still have room under the extinguisher to access the charging ports.

I picked up the extinguisher from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HTR-MX100B

Goldfire extinguisher mount from good ole Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1612641363
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1612641383
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1612641402

Like many others I used some black suede dye to do the door straps, it comes with a nice applicator and only takes a couple coats. Definitely want to wear some gloves when applying this stuff, will stain anything it comes in contact with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1612641462

After go-karting a few times I have been struggling with the pedal box and having the brake and gas pedal interfering with each other when pressing on them. I have size 13 feet and this pedal box does not like big feet, so I ended up moving the brake and clutch pad out even further. I also adjusted the Russ Thomspon gas pedal. This setup seems to be working better, I will probably also buy some type of driving shoes to narrow up my feet as much as possible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1612641480

You Do Darn Good Work Fman!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GoDadGo

You Do Darn Good Work Fman!

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Thank you, just copying a lot of mods from yourself and other builders on this forum. It is kind of odd, I am reaching a point where my car is about at the point where I can't do much more on it until the body goes back on. Even after that milestone there are only a few small items left to take care of and I could be on the road!

I took my wife out for a go-kart run today, weather was beautiful here...64 and sunny. it was awesome to look over and see her in the passenger seat! she really enjoyed it...cant wait to take it out for a nice long drive someday:D

Thanks for the recommend on the extinguisher, Travis. Good to see what an expert in the field is using to protect himself, and his roadster! Made a note of it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fman

After go-karting a few times I have been struggling with the pedal box and having the brake and gas pedal interfering with each other when pressing on them. I have size 13 feet and this pedal box does not like big feet, so I ended up moving the brake and clutch pad out even further. I also adjusted the Russ Thomspon gas pedal. This setup seems to be working better, I will probably also buy some type of driving shoes to narrow up my feet as much as possible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1612641480

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I bought some Puma Drift Cats for driving. I'm pretty happy with them.

You need to consider a dead pedal. Ask me how I know.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Thanks for the recommend on the extinguisher, Travis. Good to see what an expert in the field is using to protect himself, and his roadster! Made a note of it.

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I am easily replaceable more concerned about the roadster ;)

I have noticed a lot of guys will also keep a 5lb extinguisher in the trunk. The 1lb extinguishers are good for a quick knockdown to prevent a larger fire. Hopefully nobody ever has to use one for there car, that would definitely be a bad day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Railroad

You need to consider a dead pedal. Ask me how I know.

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Any pics on what you are using? I have considered adding it.

Here's one idea. I used some aluminum L-bracket material from HD or Ace, cut some ears on it and bent them to fit the frame on the outside of the footbox:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1595ed2712.jpg

I cut a blank out of 0.090" aluminum plate:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cfa596c99b.jpg

I spent some quality time with the drill and the countersink bit and ended up with this:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2fdb47504d.jpg

A quick hit with a sanding block and some 320 grit gave it a nice consistent satin finish. It provides a good foot rest with my foot below the stomp switch for the hi-beams, and there's plenty of room to lift my foot up and hit the switch:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e00e9cf76f.jpg

One more note: I decided after looking at the dead pedal in place for a bit that it looked wrong with the curvy shape on the right side. Great, its shaped to the foot but you don't need all that support on a dead pedal. I'd put it in my dune buggy if I ever wanted to own a dune buggy. Which I don't.

I trimmed it to a straight rectangle shape with just the two columns of lightening holes and it looks much better now. More functional and race ready. Still all the support for the foot right where you need it. I can pull measurements off and take a photo of the refined shape tonight if you like.

Cheers,

-- John

PS Size 11 shoes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Ibele

I spent some quality time with the drill and the countersink bit and ended up with this:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2fdb47504d.jpg

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is that a foot button for high/low beams? looks awesome!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Ibele

Here's one idea. I used some aluminum L-bracket material from HD or Ace, cut some ears on it and bent them to fit the frame on the outside of the footbox:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1595ed2712.jpg

I cut a blank out of 0.090" aluminum plate:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cfa596c99b.jpg

I spent some quality time with the drill and the countersink bit and ended up with this:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2fdb47504d.jpg

A quick hit with a sanding block and some 320 grit gave it a nice consistent satin finish. It provides a good foot rest with my foot below the stomp switch for the hi-beams, and there's plenty of room to lift my foot up and hit the switch:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e00e9cf76f.jpg

One more note: I decided after looking at the dead pedal in place for a bit that it looked wrong with the curvy shape on the right side. Great, its shaped to the foot but you don't need all that support on a dead pedal. I'd put it in my dune buggy if I ever wanted to own a dune buggy. Which I don't.

I trimmed it to a straight rectangle shape with just the two columns of lightening holes and it looks much better now. More functional and race ready. Still all the support for the foot right where you need it. I can pull measurements off and take a photo of the refined shape tonight if you like.

Cheers,

-- John

PS Size 11 shoes.

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Nice work! that looks awesome. I think I am going to just go with a basic 2" (w) 5 1/2" (l) piece similar to what breeze sells and keep it simple and easy. Planning on using Rivnuts to make it removable.

I was at the big orange today and found a 2" quick cap, if you are in go-kart this comes in real handy for a fuel cap. It is easy to remove/install and does a good job sealing off all the fumes. Prior, I was using some gorilla tape and every time I went to add some fuel it was a PIA.

I think at HD they are $3 you can also find one on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Fernco-QC-102...1&rps=1&sr=8-5

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1612835138

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fman

I was at the big orange today and found a 2" quick cap, if you are in go-kart this comes in real handy for the a fuel cap. It is easy to remove/install and does a good job sealing off all the fumes. Prior, I was using some gorilla tape and every time I went to add some fuel it was a PIA.

I think at HD they are $3 you can also find one on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Fernco-QC-102...1&rps=1&sr=8-5

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Great idea, Travis! Noted. I especially like tips that are very functional AND cheap!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Ibele

I cut a blank out of 0.090" aluminum plate:

A quick hit with a sanding block and some 320 grit gave it a nice consistent satin finish. It provides a good foot rest with my foot below the stomp switch for the hi-beams, and there's plenty of room to lift my foot up and hit the switch:...

I trimmed it to a straight rectangle shape with just the two columns of lightening holes and it looks much better now. More functional and race ready. Still all the support for the foot right where you need it. I can pull measurements off and take a photo of the refined shape tonight if you like.

Cheers,

-- John

PS Size 11 shoes.

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Hi John. If it's not too much trouble I would gladly accept a photo with measurements, etc. Can you PM it to me?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Railroad

You need to consider a dead pedal. Ask me how I know.

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OK, I'm adding this to my "to do" list. Thanks for sharing!

I had installed a manual gate for my fresh air system, after reaching down a few times to open and close the vent I decided to improve it by adding a cable push/pull system to open and close the vents. This is also much easier to do now than once the body goes on the car. I picked up two choke cables and a pack of cable stops.

Dorman choke cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dorman cable stops:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ended up using some 1" L alum channel I had in my garage to make the bracket to hold the pull lever. This cable system is really nice to open and close the gates and is much easier than reaching down with your hand and doing it on the gate. It was a cheap upgrade less than $20 all in.

Here is drivers side cable run, I wanted to keep it away from foot box pedals and throttle linkage. It runs on the outside of the fuse box. I had to flip the gate 180 degrees to allow the actual gate to slide upward to open. Pretty easy swap, couple new holes and had to add extra piece of carpet to patch up the small gap. I also trimmed some of the sheet metal on the vent to clear the back of the pedal box assembly. The cable is held in place with a cushion clamp that is bolted with a nylock nut to the footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1612923931
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1612923919
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1612923950

I mounted the pull knob on outside of the drivers lower cross member area. The passenger side is in the same place. This seems to be a good spot, even with knob pulled out 2.5" there is plenty of clearance to get in and out of the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1612923961

Passenger side gate and pull knob, no modification was needed other than drilling a small hole in the actual gate. The cable runs along the top of the footbox and hooks around the back area to the gate. All of this is completed hidden and cant be seen when car is on the ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1612923977
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1612923999

I really like the nostalgic look of the low back seats in a Cobra but one of the problems is you have no neck support if the unfortunate happened. I started to look on the forum and found a mod that I really wanted to add to my build. I wanted to add a headrest and found another builder (Skidd) used a wheel chair calf pad which turns out to be cheap and about perfect size. I then took the pad to my upholstery guy and had him cover them with the leather hyde I am using on the car. This was relatively a cheap mod, about $150 total with all materials including upholstery.

Here are the wheel chair calf pads I picked up:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the rollbar clamps I ended up using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After mounting the roll bar clamps I mounted the base plate for the head rest. I used stainless hardware for the install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1613531468

I cut a piece of 2" wide x 1/8" alum stock I had in my garage. It is a good thickness for this application, plenty strong. I ended up using 500 grit and wet sanded it down and followed it up with some Mothers metal polish. Once the brace was mounted I used the 4 bolts to affix the head rest to the base plate. I went with black bolts I picked up from Ace hardware.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1613531514

This is the wheel chair calf pad covered in the leather hyde

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1613531500

The roll bar clamps have nice thick rubber grommets to protect the chrome on the roll bar. They can easily be adjusted up and down on the roll bar. They are not fully tightened down in this pic, they will pull together even more at full clamp force.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1613531541

I cut the braces to be inside the head rest base plate

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1613531526

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1613532546

Got a nice update today from Ken Pike, my car is being blocked for final primer!:D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1613594449

A couple more "to-do" items on my pre-paint checklist before I rivet up the drivers side footbox. I decided to install a dead pedal from recommendations of many on the forum.

The dead pedal is from 1/8" alum stock I cut and bent myself. I made it 1 3/8" wide by 5 1/2" long, 2" wide seems to be more standard size. I wanted it a little more narrow to free up some more space in the pedal box and not have my foot interfering with it when using the clutch pedal. I added a piece of grip tape on it, seems to be a good fit for my foot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1613706935

I mounted it a little forward in front of the clutch pedal, this seems to be a personal preference item. Some go behind it, I liked how I can roll my foot off it onto the clutch and never have my foot behind the clutch pedal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1613706947

I used 4 rivnuts to hold the pedal that make it removable just incase I ever want to take it out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1613706961

I also found this heel pad for the Cobra mats on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They seem to be about the perfect size and affix with six screws that go into the underside of the pad.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1613706980

Also put one on the passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1613706992

Hearing your phone ding and seeing it is from Ken Pike is always good! final primer is now finished. Ken said about two weeks and some color will be on the roadster. :cool:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1613764031
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1613764046
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1613764058
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1613764072
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1613764090

Received my Speed hut temp gauge, they converted it from Celsius to Fahrenheit. I was not a fan of the Celsius display, felt like I was doing math conversions in my head every time I looked at the gauge...and I am not good at math! It is a $14 charge plus shipping and about a two week turn around time to have the gauge converted over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1613877149

I decided to install a remote brake bias adjuster on my build, I am not sure how much I will actually use it but definitely will be a "nice to have" item. I do not think my brakes are adjusted 100% properly right now, so I am planning on fine tuning as I begin to drive the car. I ended up going with the Wilwood brake adjuster knob and Tilton 90 degree 3/8-24 adaptor. If you choose to do this the only modification is the Wilwood inner cable is too large and will not fit into the Tilton adaptor without enlarging the hole. Not really a big deal but I am sure the Tilton bias adjuster would fit without modification.

I tried initally to install without the 90 degree adaptor and it was not going to work. There is just not enough room on either end of the bias adjuster, for a clean install you definitely need the over priced Tilton fitting and they are definitely proud of that little sucker! :D

Wilwood remote brake bias adjuster:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tilton 90 degree adaptor: (3/8-24)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-560

I mounted the knob on the right side under the dash, I chose this spot because it is easily accessible when driving, cant really be seen when car is on the ground and does not interfere with driving or getting in and out the car. It seems to be turning easy with no binding and a smooth operation. I did have to move my inertia switch over to make it fit (just realized I have to put a rivet in that hole)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1614145963

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1614143322

I routed the cable up under the dash

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1614143346

I added a pillow clamp to hold the cable and keep it away from every coming near the Forte throttle linkage

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1614143358

A shot of the Tilton 90 degree adaptor with the cable mounted

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1614143337

There have been a few people that have had issues with the Mustang rear brake calipers not disengaging when the e-brake is released. I figured I would add the "spring brake" modification to avoid this happening. A shout out to Alexmak (aka fastest quarantine builder on the east coast) for giving me the links to pick up the necessary springs. Thanks again Alex!:D

Picked them up from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You run the larger 9705 inside the 9712 for a double spring setup.

Springs installed on the rear caliper

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1614473935

Ken is making some more progress, stripes are starting to come to life!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1614806641
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1614806657