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Nice!!
Started on the passenger door this weekend. I started by screwing the sill to the chassis, but let the lower firewall unattached so I had some adjustment there if needed.
I mocked up the door and found that it fit remarkably well - the belt line lined up and the tops were both flush front and rear. Too big of course, so I decided to work on the rear first. The bottom had a gap, but the top was tight, so I took some off the door as shown:
Attachment 138841
That made the rear line up, so then I worked on the front. I still have gaps that are too tight, but I'll take some more off when I have a flat sanding block rather than the angle grinder I used today :D
After just a couple of hours the door fit pretty perfectly - no twist, and lined up on every edge. Little did I know...
Then I did all the hole cutting using the Gen2 aluminum templates, and started fitting the door frame and hinges. In a couple of places the template was a little out, but no biggie.. I have an air saw to "adjust" as needed lol
Attachment 138842
Then I hung the door on the hinges.. hmmm. First, the hinges aren't parallel. the top one is almost half-inch sloped up towards the front, while the bottom is horizontal. Worse, they won't adjust inwards enough before bolting up. Obviously, I want to push the hinge inwards as far as possible to get the door to open, but the slot in the door skin wasn't the problem - the slot in the door frame was. It won't allow much of an inward hinge, so then I open the door, I get this - at maximum adjustment.
Barely 24" at the widest opening. With the roof, that'll be interesting entry/exit..
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So I stopped for the day to watch the F1 race and see if my subconscious can figure this out while I sleep. At one point I thought I'd get this door fitted, hinged and latched in 1 day, but it wasn't to be :D
I hate to be the barer of bad news but, if yours is anything like mine, the drivers side is a nightmare. Nothing lines up. Good luck.
You know, I thought I remembered that one was much easier than the other :DQuote:
Originally Posted by HVACMAN
Just reading about MonstaS4's "striker plate saga" on the other thread, but I don't have the energy now to go check!
The belt lines are all wrong and the top is at least 1/4 inch low. Also the inner door liner is too far forward. But what the heck it's just more fiberglass. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
My pass door wasn’t that bad, the drivers side was a nightmare. The door hit the side of the dash before it was closed. Had to trim the side of the dash and the door, then fiberglass.
Do you have a huge difference in the gap between the inner door panel and the body at the rear of the door, driver vs. passenger side?Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
The pass side gap from the back of the door to the waterfall is 1/2”, the drivers side is 3/4”.Quote:
Originally Posted by HVACMAN
The roof will always be on so the difference won’t really be obvious.
My drivers side door was miserable. Lines didnt match up and the top was about a half inch low. Major fiberglass and filler work required. Spent waaay too long working it. Passenger side had some issues but not as bad. I cant quite tell what your problem is but i had to cut out some of the door near the bottom hinge. I couldnt pull the door out far enough to align with the body right and i found it was hitting one of the countours. Since you never see that area I just hacked it out with a die grinder burr. I have gen 1 everything tho. And i had the huge gap HVACMAN is talking about. I closed that by extending out the fiberglass.
As much as i hated the doors, the trunk was my real nemisis. I still cant get the corners to pop in completely flush and ive tried A LOT of things including Tim Whittakers trunk braces. Extremly frustrating.
I woke up and realized I can just move the stop.. drill a different hole. I was thinking of moving door frame and lenghtnejng the slots but moving the stop is simpler. I’ll try that first, nothing to lose.
I had the same problem with the trunk lid. I finally noticed the center of the lid was contacting the center of body opening before the lid closed, which distorted the lid. I lowered that section with Tim Whitaker's piece by adjusting it down. I will experiment more once I get moved. It looks like I will have to build up the body to match the lid. Hope this makes sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by fostia
Ever since I watched Two-Lane Blacktop (coolest car ever!) I've been planning to use dzus fasteners on my trunk and lift it off when filling gas :D I'm hoping I skip this whole mess that everyone goes through. But we'll see, won't we :DQuote:
Originally Posted by HVACMAN
Finally got out to the garage again, been a couple of weeks. I removed the door frame and hinge bracket and looked how it needed adjusting - in my case the slots were just long enough (at final limit) but the bolt heads were getting in the way, so I squared half of them off where they were up against brackets.
Attachment 139537
Removing the doorstop opened up the door from 24" - 40", so I'm just going to go with that. If anything I'll make up a door strap later - the doorstop seems so far off of where it needs to be, and its position isn't adjustable, but "oh well".
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Close enough. "A blind man would be glad to see it" as my Mother-in-law frequently says.
I did some other stuff I've been meaning to; shaped and riveted the exhaust surround, and finally bolted up the firewall. It's just been clamped all this time "just in case". :D
I'm going to remove the door stop too and come up with something else as well... I'm thinking something along the lines of the thicker picture frame wire with an eyelet on each end which I'll attach the one end to the original doorstop hole in the hinge bracket and then drill a hole and tap it in the hinge.
Donno yet though, need to look at it in detail and figure it out. I too would like the door to open a little wider.
I made the door open wider by taking the socket head off the door stop bolt and welding it back on in an offset location. A small offset makes a big difference.
LOL. I guess I need the special offset plates too. I could use these if I had to, but it would mean using just one bolt.. and I don't have the tools to mill in a new slot.
Attachment 139576
Well, I got the passenger door latched, so that's done for now. Waiting on final gapping when I get a nice sanding board. As noted above I do need to get new striker plates though. Right now it's strengthening the striker, but not attached to the chassis.
I didn't want to move straight onto the drivers door (!) so I diverted to the trunk. I got my Aeroloc 51-14 Fasteners from Pegasus so I fancied trying them out. I ditched the whole hinge/latch mechanisms for the trunk just because I wanted to keep things simple and I've always loved the dzus twisties. Dzus wouldn't work here though because they don't make them long enough. Aeroloc do - just - and have the advantage of the handle to lift the lid with.
Anyway, after lots of sanding I got it in the hole (good fit; no twist or high point noticeable) and fitted the top two fasteners. I'm not sure yet if I'll have 1 or 2 on the lower edge.
Here are some pics to show how I fit them.
Attachment 139582
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I like this week off - getting a lot done. Although, I am being dragged to work most mornings for a couple of hours.
Yesterday and today I worked on a few little things and then got into the driver's door. It fits pretty well - like the passenger door did - I really got lucky with this body. I did have to do Jim's trick with bending the angle of the door frame (good catch Jim). I didn't need it on the passenger side, but did this time. It made a big difference to the strain in the door. Just chucked it in a vice and heaved on it..
Attachment 139694 Attachment 139693
I did lots of sanding to fit the door, all the metalwork, and just finished the afternoon off with it waiting on the hinge bolts to be adjusted and tightened. And the latch of course. Looks good.
Attachment 139695
Other little things - drilled all the rivet holes in the access panels above the pedal box, rough-fitted the dash so it wasn't in the way of the driver's door, sanded down some parting lines where the roof will sit, and adjusted the headlights to be more level and straight-ahead. Anything to put off the driver's door :D
My goal - may as well admit it here - is to be driving or getting close to legal by my birthday on Jan 27.
The driver's door was certainly more of a pain to finesse, but largely because I tried to improve something I saw when I did the passenger door. Big mistake!
I moved the inside door hinge bracket further outwards to get the hinges straighter - but that messes up a few things so I moved it back. Then the door started behaving. There was a slight twist in the door (or the body) but pushing down on the main door frame in the existing slots took all the slight twist out. I only had the afternoon outside today, but that was all on the drivers door.. and still haven't latched it. Tomorrow.
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There was one thing I don't know if I mentioned but on both doors I needed one washer between hinge and door bracket to take up a gap. Otherwise tightening the bolt added some strain.
Latched the drivers door and today fitted the roof - sanded and drilled and got ready to bolt on. Waiting on half moon seals via Amazon and then I can bolt it on. I’d bought this roof second hand a while ago (hence the bondo work by previous owner) and didn’t come with any of the fixings. Need to go to Lowe’s and by the bolts too.
Also cut slots and fitted the defroster vents so I can leave the roof on.
Interesting difference between Gen1 and Gen2 manuals around hard top - it appears that Gen2 don’t have inner skin so for once I’m glad that I got Gen1 part! Still fit perfectly to Gen2 body though.
Attachment 139893
My final day of 9 days off work, and it wasn't a great success - the waterfall is going to be a royal PITA. Doesn't seem to fit at all. Almost every surface doesn't fit where it's supposed to. I can't see any way to adjust it either - without cutting it into pieces. The top of the doors is way out, the shape around the top is correct but I can't move back far enough to mate up, and the bottom of the doors is worse of all. The lower section is hitting the rollbar support and the chassis below the fuel tank, and I've thinned both areas almost down to the gelcoat and it's still not enough.
So I'll have to make do. I may cut off the lower section completely. I can't make any final decision until the hardtop is actually bolted on since it'll fix in space where the waterfall will bolt. I suppose making new panels from aluminum is an option too.
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It's a shame since every other panel, incl my Gen1 hardtop, has fitted remarkably well.
The waterfall takes a bit of finessing for both generations. For Gen 2, I think some had to cut back the rollbar tubes in order for it to fit properly. You might want to go look at some of the other gen 2 build threads to verify. The way the bottom sticks out as shown in your 2nd picture doesn't matter as it's behind the seats and no one is ever going to see it. Get the top part fitted as best you can and get rid of the interference with the roll bar tubes before you cut up or shape the bottom and sides for the door.
Good luck, Steve
That's odd on the waterfall. Mine needed a little persuasion in one spot but overall the fit was really good. I lined up / screwed down the passenger side first, then worked my way around to the driver's side and by the time I got to the driver's side the one spot that was a little wonky lined up as well.
Yeah, I did wonder about this.. seems a bit extreme but I'm not using the "rollbar" anyway so I don't need these supports at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Wow, I just looked at your build thread about the waterfall - it looks perfect. Damn. I'll have to cut my rollbar supports off to see if it makes a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
That's why I was surprised when I saw your thread, mine fit really nice. I don't know if it was because I focused on one end and then worked my way around or what the exact reason was, but it's dead on.Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
Keep in mind though I didn't modify my roll bar supports either
I cut the rollbar supports off - sounds easy but took a heck of a long time, that **** is hard!
The waterfall fits a little better, probably good enough, so I went to bolt on the roof so that I have the final shape to fit the waterfall to. Everything lined up with the rivnuts I did last week, but the front ones all immediately started spinning. So I investigated deeper and found that the hardtop I'd bought had 1/4" of filler applied under the windshield, below the gelcoat. I had to chisel/sand all that off, so the rivnuts would grip into the metal strip. Now the rivnuts are super strong, not affected by even 'glass, just metal. I'll bolt it on tomorrow.
That is similar to what I did on the hood, I actually drilled the 25/64 hole for the rivnut but then I took a 1/2" bit to lightly grind away the fiber glass so I was down to the aluminum, then I installed the rivnuts plus I took a 1/2-20 3/4" bolt with a washer on it and screwed it into the rivnut and then torqued the bolt down tight plus 1 full turn and you could feel the rivnut compress even more. Those puppies aren't going anywhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
Great day today. Bolted up the roof without drama, and then move to the trunk where I final fitted all the aluminum. Tomorrow I can go back to the interior and create a couple panels under the waterfall then fit that too.
Attachment 140237
Went under the car today. Connected the handbrake and exhaust tips. Then went for a drive!
https://youtu.be/5LMJe3IApr0
Nice idle. Where’s the drive video, want to hear that exhaust.
The wind noise always overrides the exhaust.. maybe when I have a windshield it’ll be betterQuote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
Awesome!!....Always a good feeling
Sounds great!:cool:
Love how your wife(?) keeps brushing the sidewalk.... not impressed by the looks of it!!
Love the sound of that idle!!!
RJ
Haha! She’s seen many weird cars come and go over 27 years - she puts up with it! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by j33ptj
She was probably waiting for you to finish up the video and move the 33 so she could finishing sweeping. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
Another silly milestone - front and rear glass! I found a local mobile guy who would come out - most wouldn't for this "strange car". He charged $100/glass to fit it and spent 90minutes or so doing it.
He roughed up the gelcoat, then applied a thin black primer with a brush. He used a very thick black caulk like rubber to glue in the windshield(s):
Attachment 140623
Here's the final result
Attachment 140624
Given that it's cold I'm just going to leave the car alone for a few days for it to set up.
Finally got back to the waterfall, and managed to get it close. Put one rivnut in 2" chassis tube at the bottom, and another up top next to harnesses. There's some stress because the shape is wrong, but this minimizes it. Just waiting for the caulk on lower aluminum panels to set overnight last night before I can fit it all, move onto seats etc.
Also fitted license plate at back using an old plate.. it's so odd that the way it goes toegther you cannot change plate without breaking the wire connections! So I connected temporarily but left them all long so I can do it again. Added two lower dzus style fixings to bottom corner of trunk lid.
Oh, and I got two new latch striker plates from FFR, I had sent pics a week ago showing how they were an inch out (Gen2 body over Gen1 chassis) and they said they thought they knew what I needed and bent up some new plates. I haven't fitted yet, but they look right!
Finished the waterfall first, nice to have that out of the way.
Attachment 140838
Then for some fun I made a little divider to stop my toolroll rolling around in the trunk :D
Attachment 140835
Wired up the license plate LED's
Attachment 140839
Then made up a lid for my glove box using a cabinet hinge (my wife will pad and cover this at some point)
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