Brando's Newbie 818R Build Thread

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Originally Posted by Wayne Presley

And those cars have a much better airflow through the IC...

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There is very little track data on this car and its hard to say how it will perform w/o an AWIC, if I lived in a warm/hot climate I might look into an AWIC or if the tracks were short and no chance to cool down the engine I might look into an AWIC but for now it will be a wait and see for a stock engine.

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Originally Posted by FFRSpec72

Nope, not running autoX and it never gets above 80 here and I run on tracks that have up to a mile straight, so the Subaru folks here have no issues with heat soak.

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I was reading the blue 818R was having major heat soak issues. Your comparing a FMIC to a TMIC. Might want to reconsider that one big T.

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Originally Posted by 07FIREBLADE

Wow you got an appointment coming up that soon. Surprised that you got an appointment so soon. Who many sb100s are left do you know? Let me know how it goes. Getting ready to start making calls to the DMV soon.

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I will find out how many SB100's are left and let you know next Tuesday. Last year they didn't hit the 500 mark so i'm pretty confident they wont hit it this year.
The DMV doesn't check the car itself they just go over paperwork and take your money. I believe they give you a 2 month hall pass to drive the car while you get the CHP and referee to pass the car.
During those 2 months i'm going to try and get away with as much as I can. My thought is if i zip tie the lights and blinkers to the chassis and get my 5 point harness installed that i can drive it around without the body panels. That way I can iron out the kinks while keeping easy access to internals. Not to mention it sounds delightful.

Oops, sorry it was my Evo that had the FMIC. Obviously the EJ has a TMIC but you know what i'm trying to get at.
How's the harness working out for you?

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Originally Posted by Brando

I was reading the blue 818R was having major heat soak issues. Your comparing a FMIC to a TMIC. Might want to reconsider that one big T.


I will find out how many SB100's are left and let you know next Tuesday. Last year they didn't hit the 500 mark so i'm pretty confident they wont hit it this year.
The DMV doesn't check the car itself they just go over paperwork and take your money. I believe they give you a 2 month hall pass to drive the car while you get the CHP and referee to pass the car.
During those 2 months i'm going to try and get away with as much as I can. My thought is if i zip tie the lights and blinkers to the chassis and get my 5 point harness installed that i can drive it around without the body panels. That way I can iron out the kinks while keeping easy access to internals. Not to mention it sounds delightful.

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Definitely go to San Clemente and talk to Guy. He knows the SB100 front and back. There's another lady there who is really good too.

What tools are needed to tap a burp nipple into the radiator outlet? I know that this nipple is then attached to the outer small hose nipple on the turbo tank. What does one do with the other (inner) nipple on the tank? Do you just cap it off?

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Originally Posted by tmoretta

What tools are needed to tap a burp nipple into the radiator outlet? I know that this nipple is then attached to the outer small hose nipple on the turbo tank. What does one do with the other (inner) nipple on the tank? Do you just cap it off?

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You need an 11/32" drill bit, 1/8 NPT tap to put in the nipple in the water outlet. The degas tank has 2 ports on the tank and one off the tank cap. One goes to the turbo, one to the nipple and the cap port goes to the recovery tank.

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Originally Posted by ehansen007

Definitely go to San Clemente and talk to Guy. He knows the SB100 front and back. There's another lady there who is really good too.

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The DMV in SC? I might consider driving up there for my paperwork when the time comes rather than rolling the dice at the Vista DMV.

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Originally Posted by Wayne Presley

You need an 11/32" drill bit, 1/8 NPT tap to put in the nipple in the water outlet. The degas tank has 2 ports on the tank and one off the tank cap. One goes to the turbo, one to the nipple and the cap port goes to the recovery tank.

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Thanks Wayne, I'll be doing this soon, just ordered the tap off Amazon. Does it need to go on top of the outlet, or will it burp out air fine on the side?

Maybe we should move this discussion to it's own thread, rather than clogging up Brandon's. I'm sure most builders will want to know about and perform this mod.

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Originally Posted by wleehendrick

Thanks Wayne, I'll be doing this soon, just ordered the tap off Amazon. Does it need to go on top of the outlet, or will it burp out air fine on the side?

Maybe we should move this discussion to it's own thread, rather than clogging up Brandon's. I'm sure most builders will want to know about and perform this mod.

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You can also add a T filler neck between the pump and the hose, someone should be able to design a nice filler neck that will serve as a burper also

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Originally Posted by Wayne Presley

You need an 11/32" drill bit, 1/8 NPT tap to put in the nipple in the water outlet. The degas tank has 2 ports on the tank and one off the tank cap. One goes to the turbo, one to the nipple and the cap port goes to the recovery tank.

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Wayne - one question about your system: since the nipple is "open" all of the time, how is the system able to pressurize? I ask this contrasting this situation with a double-valve radiator cap and expansion tank- type setup. Is the static pressure of the "water column" of the coolant in the tank enough to offset the pressure?

Thanks, Bill

Thanks for the info Wayne. Are guys mounting the recovery tank near the engine then, or running a long hose forward and mounting the tank on the radiator as in the donor car?

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Originally Posted by ehansen007

Definitely go to San Clemente and talk to Guy. He knows the SB100 front and back. There's another lady there who is really good too.

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I went to the San Clemente DMV during lunch today and they were closed for construction.

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Originally Posted by tmoretta

Thanks for the info Wayne. Are guys mounting the recovery tank near the engine then, or running a long hose forward and mounting the tank on the radiator as in the donor car?

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I think people are mounting the recovery in the rear. In my case I have an AWIC which has a 2nd radiator up front which required me to have the recovery up front where it was originally. I have not yet purchased a 2nd recovery for the rear so I am running a long hose from the degas to the front recovery. I do intend to add a second recovery in the rear for this soon however.

If you don't have an AWIC your supposed to mount the recovery in the rear and plug off the front radiator and use the degas exclusively for overflow/recovery

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Originally Posted by Bill Waters

Wayne - one question about your system: since the nipple is "open" all of the time, how is the system able to pressurize? I ask this contrasting this situation with a double-valve radiator cap and expansion tank- type setup. Is the static pressure of the "water column" of the coolant in the tank enough to offset the pressure?

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The nipple runs to the degas tank which is still pressurized

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Originally Posted by Brando

The nipple runs to the degas tank which is still pressurized

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Correct.

So, then, the cap on the degas tank is a radiator-like pressure cap?

Yes it is

Thanks

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Originally Posted by FFRSpec72

There is very little track data on this car and its hard to say how it will perform w/o an AWIC, if I lived in a warm/hot climate I might look into an AWIC or if the tracks were short and no chance to cool down the engine I might look into an AWIC but for now it will be a wait and see for a stock engine.

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Another thing to consider since you are going to run the stock ECU is that the air temp sensor is in the MAF and ahead of the turbo and IC. The ECU has no way to know how well the IC is cooling the air charge. It's only safegard is the knock sensor which pulls timing and the car slows down. I brought an OBD II datalogger to the track testing to check the effectiveness I was surprised that the thermistor was just an ambient air temp.

Sorry about the thread hijack Brando

You know i don't care bro. Hijack away

Brandon, I picked up one of these so I can tweak my air to air intercooler.

http://www.fastwrx.com/mavdiintega.html

Is it bad to use two recovery tanks, one in the front on the radiator and one in the back on the fill tank?


I ran my fitting/hose to the top. There's a nice square boss on the casting on my 06 pipe that gives extra meat for threads to grip and seal against. I used a 90deg fitting because the turbo inlet runs over this pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/GNQa0F6.jpg?1

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Originally Posted by Mechie3

Is it bad to use two recovery tanks, one in the front on the radiator and one in the back on the fill tank?

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Works just fine, the stock WRX uses the same two recovery lines that happen to go to one tank instead of two tanks.

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

Brandon, I picked up one of these so I can tweak my air to air intercooler. http://www.fastwrx.com/mavdiintega.html

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That is slick.
What kind of adjustments can you make on your intercooler?

Here is an 06-07 and a 02-05 tank. A goes to turbo, B goes to the new nipple and C goes to recovery tank.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...psff30431a.jpg

I will use it to make sure it is getting enough airflow... I know what deltas people are getting on the Grimmspeed TMIC on WRXs, so I'll be using that as a target to determine what sort of ducting/cutout and or fan is needed.

I'll also be able to throw the stock tmic on there and get numbers to people who are using the FFR ducts/stock IC.

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Originally Posted by Mechie3

Is it bad to use two recovery tanks, one in the front on the radiator and one in the back on the fill tank?

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Craig,
You can get it trouble with 2 tanks.
When hot it could dump coolant into tank A. When it cools it could suck out of tank B. Or vise versa.

Best to run both overflow hoses to the bottom of the same tank.
Bob

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Originally Posted by Wayne Presley

Here is an 06-07 and a 02-05 tank. A goes to turbo, B goes to the new nipple and C goes to recovery tank.

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Thanks, Wayne. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words...

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Originally Posted by Mechie3

I ran my fitting/hose to the top. There's a nice square boss on the casting on my 06 pipe that gives extra meat for threads to grip and seal against. I used a 90deg fitting because the turbo inlet runs over this pipe.

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Thanks Craig. That looks like a good location. Unfortunately, I just installed my Gimmick inlet, so now I have to go back and get it out of the way! If I had known about this last week...

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Originally Posted by Wayne Presley

Here is an 06-07 and a 02-05 tank. A goes to turbo, B goes to the new nipple and C goes to recovery tank.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...psff30431a.jpg

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Thanks Wayne, that cleared up the confusion in my mind. ( at least on this question. LOL)

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Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy

You can get it trouble with 2 tanks.
When hot it could dump coolant into tank A. When it cools it could suck out of tank B. Or vise versa.
Best to run both overflow hoses to the bottom of the same tank.
Bob

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That created question to the setup.
I have a 1.3 bar radiator cap and a 1.1 bar degas cap. In that scenario isn't it safe to say the 1.1 will blow off first? If so does the 1.1 also suck back in first when the water cools?
If yes to both then wouldn't it be safe to cap off the overflow nipple on the front 1.3 bar radiator cap?

Best bet is to use the correct caps on each end. The OEM upper coolant reservoir cap vents and pulls a vacuum. The OEM radiator cap ONLY vents. It will not pull a vacuum when the system cools. IIRC, the radiator cap is also a higher pressure than the upper cap (18 lbs vs. 16 lbs).

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Originally Posted by Brando

That created question to the setup.
I have a 1.3 bar radiator cap and a 1.1 bar degas cap. In that scenario isn't it safe to say the 1.1 will blow off first? If so does the 1.1 also suck back in first when the water cools?
If yes to both then wouldn't it be safe to cap off the overflow nipple on the front 1.3 bar radiator cap?

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It will pull from the one with the recovery tank closest in height to it's respective cap as it take more suction to lift it from a lower level. So if you mount each recovery tank at the same height difference from their caps, they should draw at the same rate.

It's hard to see in the picture, but the rear hatch panel body pins are an inch or so too high. I have adjusted them as low as possible

What's the trick?

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...psc7b8b394.jpg

You have to either make brackets to set them lower or extend there threads

"the rear hatch panel body pins are an inch or so too high. I have adjusted them as low as possible"

I had the same problem last week. Either yourself or have somebody else as I did extend the threads on the pins close to the holes that go through the pins. Problem solved.

Brandon, did you have to cut around the roll bar to fit the panel? what's up with the gap left under the bar? Is the cut off piece just get mounted there? thanks

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Originally Posted by Doowop

Brandon, did you have to cut around the roll bar to fit the panel? what's up with the gap left under the bar? Is the cut off piece just get mounted there? thanks

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The gap left under the "R" bar is "as is" and came from FFR as you see it. I looks fine in person, the picture seems to accent that gap more than real life does.

284 HP & 269 lbft to the wheels.

It's a whole new world driving the car now. The tires are putting the power down well. In a straight line they don't break loose even in 1st. Neck snapping quick. I LOVE IT!!

http://youtu.be/o-3N5B3dw-A

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...ps29bc4b2b.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5fb5d777.jpg

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Originally Posted by Brando

The gap left under the "R" bar is "as is" and came from FFR as you see it. I looks fine in person, the picture seems to accent that gap more than real life does.

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which actually bring a point. On the Blue R, they have some Carbon fiber (or carbon fiber looking pieces) in that opening and also around the door edges and the other cut out like where the wing goes. Have you or any R owner thought about what to do there to make it prettier?

Great numbers on the Dyno BTW!! :)

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Originally Posted by Doowop

On the Blue R, they have some Carbon fiber (or carbon fiber looking pieces) in that opening and also around the door edges and the other cut out like where the wing goes. Have you or any R owner thought about what to do there to make it prettier?

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As an R owner, functional comes to mind. Pretty does nothing. Perhaps sexy could make it faster.

Tape :)

Nice power man, I was so close to the dyno, actually was planned for yesterday and I was expecting 340whp, but now it's zero lol .