https://www.rollbarpadding.com/product/id-41
http://www.safedrives.com/proddetail...BSCIEnergyFoam
Printable View
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=2396Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasmus
They also have 3/8" and 1/2"
For some foam, that is pretty pricey. Just fill the doors with packing peanuts... If you ever get hit it will look like the 4th of July. #kidding
To keep the fireworks to a minimum.... Haha.
I ordered the Fuel Safe cell. I did get the 17 gallon cell. The dimensions will fit nicely in the passenger area. I went the with Walbro in tank pump, and collector (a must), and the aluminum can upgrade. I also had them cut the foam so I can add a fuel level sender at a later date.
I also was playing around with the 3D printer. I made another emblem for someone on another thread in the Body forum. However, I am leaning towards this one now for my car. Porsche font 818R. Just a rough print for sizing. I kinda like it.
http://i.imgur.com/7SLRb2I.jpg
I saw that thread, with the STi-ish logo. I'm loving the simplicity of yours though. The font's just to my liking. Does the font have a name or is it just "Porsche"?
Thanks. Yes- just google Porsche font. Some don't look quite right though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasmus
Chad. Do you have a picture of the bracket you made to stop the pedal plate from flexing? What'd you do for a pedal stop?Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
How thick's your spacer? I was thinking 1" - 1.125" would just about do it.
Look a few posts down from that picture and I have the spacer length.... I think 20mm IIRC. Look for the bird$hit quick welds also a few posts down for the bracket :)
I have not made a throttle stop yet. That's going to be soon since I'm about ready to start this ***** up in a few weeks. I'll probably 3D print something then bolt it to the firewall.
Found it. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Those lateral links just kick ***, sick as hell.
Tnx for the throttle pedal ideas and issues, I'll keep that in mind and also will fab my pedal stop as I don't have the OEM one.
So I started on the part I really dreaded. The windshield surround/cowl. You 818S guys have it easy. There are no 3 dimensional roll cage bars going everywhere. We get the same part as you 818S guys, then we need to hack it up so it hopefully fits (And looks presentable in the process.) No template is included, so I suggest playing Tetris for an hour before you begin cutting and measuring.
I have to admit, it was not as bad as I thought. I just took my time. I made good measurements, cut smaller/shorter than needed and checked fit.... then repeat. Always make sure to have it centered, and only make one cut at a time. I used the Harbor Freight electric body saw with great results (I may be biased).
I also have the brake/clutch fluid reservoir relocation kit. This will really clean up the look on 818R's and also limit the cuts needed.
I may have to move it back a tad, but I will wait until I start messing with the bodywork more. If I have to move it back an inch, the additional cutting will be minimal. This would only be required to get more "meat" for the rear hood pin install.
But here it is- I even added the dash, and R shorty windshield. You cant get the proper curve with just the two clamps I was using on the windshield- but by hand it looks great.
http://i.imgur.com/19MOUBpl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PGBtpZ3l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GDhpg0Kl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WeYpa04l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fsyNrHNl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eAT2i6Fl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hXRH7Mrl.jpg
With hood mock up-
http://i.imgur.com/PYMCbnol.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DqwGdd7l.jpg
Am I supposed to flip this aluminum panel "Dash Close off" #80546 so it is angled "up" instead the way it is now? It does not look right to me, but I have not tried it the other way yet.
http://i.imgur.com/wgUQi5Hl.jpg
Angles up into the crease of the suround
Thanks Wayne. That makes more sense. Garage is too hot to mess with it right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Presley
Put bulb seal on it
I have to admit- I have not looked at the manual in a long time since it not that great for the R. I just popped it open... and there it was- a segment on the question I asked about dash piece... lol Thanks again Wayne
Guess what showed up today when I came home for lunch? I'm getting excited now.
http://i.imgur.com/PjBcFW6.jpg
Congratulations! It's looking like a race car.
What is the size and dimensions of the cell? I can't find what you decided on.
Info-
Complete Pro Cell, PC117
Complete 17 gallon Pro Cell with steel can, bladder, safety foam baffling, SF6X10E fill plate and fuel pick up assembly. Outside can dimensions 20.125" x 17.125" x 12.75"
I have upgraded to an aluminum can, race collector, internal fuel pump, pre cut sender area foam (so I can add a sender later easily) fuel pump harness.
Just got the email I have been waiting for. One of the first Gen 2 vacuumed formed Carbon Fiber 818R race splitters coming my way. I'll post pictures when I get it.
What does it do better?
Lets just say FFR had someone else make it this time....Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Excellent, looking forward to the improved pieces. I'm using the R carbon aero parts on my S.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
The rear bumper is done. I just need to take all my mesh/frame bits to get powder coated.
http://i.imgur.com/k0DWa91l.jpg
Now on to the front bumper/headlights
Moving on to the exhaust. I bought an Invidia Divorced/ catless down pipe ($275ish). It's all an 818R needs. The pipe in stock form hits the 1" square tubing on the passenger side. Its an easy fix for a Muffler shop. I would have them cut it, reweld to my designated exit location once I get the body on. I plan on the exhaust going out the passenger side.
http://i.imgur.com/zh0G4ffl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/87c9teal.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kFfXcx3l.jpg
The new Gen2 818R front carbon fiber race splitter was just was delivered. It looks really good. Just like the APR wing.
I'm making a template of it now. I want to get a Tegris one made if this one ever breaks- 3.5 inch ride height, and race curbs take their toll after awhile.
http://i.imgur.com/J8SlEs6l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2vS85q4l.jpg
Backside-
http://i.imgur.com/qcJRkH6l.jpg
Very jealous of that splitter! Did it cost more than the Gen 1?
Hey Chad I noticed that neither you or Brandon have cut out the rear of your cars as much as the FFR car. Any reason or just cosmetics.
Mine was on back order- but I requested to get the Gen 2 version after seeing the rear "Carbon Fiber" diffuser. So no it did not cost me anything extra. In fact, I think this was the last piece missing from my kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian818
I can't speak for Brandon, but I'm worried about the structural integrity of the fiberglass by making all those cuts. It would really weaken it. I may make them later, but one tap in the back and the bumper would be toast.Quote:
Originally Posted by D Clary
Do you need to wet sand the splitter still?
Nope- the front side looks like the APR wing and properly finished.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Now the rear diffuser I have from them........ It's just fiberglass that they sell as carbon fiber.
Darn, I want a Gen2 for free. :)
Yea no kidding...I think all of us that purchased what was advertised as "carbon fiber" pieces should have the option to swap it out.
Looks great man, keep it up!
That's a significant improvement over the gen I pieces. Looking much better.
Since I have this whole week off, I'm hoping to get alot done on the car. The completed harness from Brian from IWire should be here tomorrow. I'm looking forward to it.
I designed a new radiator/coolant tank overflow bracket for the front- Its printing right now. This will allow me to mount the stock WRX overflow tank behind the radiator similar to the stock set up, but one peice with my radiator brackets I printed earlier. I'll post a picture when done.
It will be printed in black ABS (Red is easier to see when building in the software)
http://i.imgur.com/QxZun1vl.jpg
I'm picking up the mesh/frames/diffusers from the powdercoater today also.
Front UCA's:
I cut 1/4" off each of the rear stubs. I was able to get -2.9 degree camber without cutting the long front one. You will only be able to use one Locknut on one side. Once I get the final alignment done, I will be using blue loctite for added piece of mind. I plan on cutting the longer front stub today by a half inch to get me over the -3 mark.
It must be fun to design your own part and see it printing at home. No need to pay big bucks. Is the 3D printer a great investment yet?
How much camber you were able to get without cutting that quarter of an inch?
The 3D printer is awesome. Pricey, yes. Not sure I would buy it just for the 818R- but I use it for other things too. I bought the printer that prints in ABS plastic instead of the PLA plastic. ABS is much more durable than PLA. Its better for what I am doing.
One thing to keep in mind is that 3D printing is alot of trial and error- its not as easy as making an item, then printing it. There are alot of variables like nozzle temp, build plate temp etc. This part will take 5 hours to print because I'm doing 100% infill (Solid). Prototypes I do 10% fill (hollow/ honeycombed inside) to save time and plastic.
30% of the time there are printing failures- Print comes of build plate in middle of print, then you have a plastic glob. etc- So it takes time to get things right. It's not like sending a document to your inkjet for a print.
The camber was minimal (R ride height) without cutting, I think it was only -.5 to -1 fully cranked down.
Yeah I read a bit on those printers. Lots of configuration and trial and error. I didn't know about the failures. I guess it's too pricey for one car, for me.
BTW, sending to your inkjet can also be a pain and yield to failures. lolllll
What camber FFR recommends for the R?
For the S, it's -0.5 to -0.75, so I guess me I'll be ok and won't need to cut the UCAs.