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The brake lines look really good.
I am always jealous of you lift guys. They are affordable enough to pull the trigger I just don't have the head space in the garage. Everything looks great, I may have to step up my game and build a coupe one of these days.
I just installed it so still getting used to it, but so far so good. Thanks for the kind words.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzboy54
A coupe would look good on you - I'm probably going to build a roadster next. Everybody needs a matching set.
Panels look good, Tim. The white will be a nice under hood contrast.
I hear you on the thicker dash. I did that as well on my MK4, so will see if I follow suit on the Coupe when I get there.
Is that a dust collection system above? Niiiiiiiiiice!! Also, congrats on getting your lift in service. Doesn't take long to get spoiled and wonder how you survived without one. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Chris. I am trying to capture a bit of the classic race car vibe. I am hoping the white isn't too difficult to keep clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
That is part of my dust collection. When I build my shop I split it down the middle so each half is 25 X 36. One is for metal and one is for wood. Although I have been doing a lot of work on my car in the woodshop...
Looking good Tim. I did the same with the wire loom on mine, the mesh split loom really cleans it up, and is a bit more flexible.
The white looks crazy nice Tim … Amen to having a lift I’ll never go back to not having one …. When your 6’2” tall working on these cars that are to say the least on the low side is rough on this old guys back! Attachment 220080Attachment 220081
I have been working on my dash for the last week or so and finally drilled some holes and did some layout. I am pretty happy with how it is turning out. I will be upholstering it so this is a very rough draft just to see if my layout works. I still have to drill the holes for the headlight switch (bezel shown top center) and the horn and signal switch. I need to temporarily mount the dash so I can determine these last two.
Attachment 220127
I am still up in the air on the jockey box but I think I am going to do it. It will hold the registration, a pack of gum and maybe a pair of sunglasses...
Just an FYI... I did not want a glove box but still wanted somewhere to keep stuff so I 3d printed inserts to fit into the door openings. Here is the link to my explaination in my thread. There are other suppliers that are offering metal inserts also. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post568220
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1751200699
Scott
Scott
Thanks Scott. I am definitely going to do the door cubbies whether I do a glove box or not. I am also considering reinforcing the dash in that area and adding an "Oh $h.." handle instead. Decisions, decisions. I have read your build thread many time and appreciate the weigh in.
Test fit the dash this morning to help me determine the signal and horn locations. I also hung my indicator strip below the switches and pretty happy with the layout.
Attachment 220184
I still need to drill and mount the light switch, which is a bit of work. The original switch I am using requires standoffs to mount which adds a layer of complexity. I was not really aware of the screwball way Jaguar mounted this thing until I was pretty far down the road or I may of rethought the entire thing. These are the pieces of the light switch assembly:
Attachment 220182
The switch body and ferrule actually mount independently of each other which is awesome (not). You can see the spring loaded retainer pin on the end of the shaft. In the photo below you can see the release hole the pin fits in to retain the handle:
Attachment 220183
Normally, I would just cut the shaft on the switch to shorten it but I don't think I can replicate the retention method. I have considered tapping it for a set screw but not sure there is really enough meat to do this and it would require an extremely small hex or slotted screw. Something like a #4-40 might work but I think the handle is pot metal so probably iffy at best.
I also need to make a final decision on the glove box. After looking at the size of the box and balancing the work against the utility, I am really leaning towards bracing the dash and installing a grab handle. I would anticipate riveting a steel backer plate to the backside of aluminum. Bend a 90 degree ledge on the bottom edge of this plate ensuring it is level with the lower dash cross tube. I would run steel strap from the backer to the tube, probably 1" wide by an 1/8" thick and bolt or rivet it to the plate and the tube to give the handle a firm mount. Not sure on this though, more to come.
The "Oh $h.." handle is a great idea I wish I had thought of. I am always concerned my passenger is going to grab the e-brake handle.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Scott
Finished my switch mounting and very happy with how it turned out. I used JB Weld to secure the countersunk screws and standoffs and it's rock solid.
Attachment 220298
Standoffs are aluminum and fit great.
Attachment 220299
Also mounted my battery
Attachment 220300
Set the lines for the both the AC and the heat. Used my crimper I bought a couple years ago for my last build. Works excellent and measured about 1/16" line shortening on both ends. The short lines were tough as everyone else knows. Heater lines were crimped with Gater Powergrip clamps. It's a little tricky to shrink these when they're packed together in close quarters but I got them set after a few minutes of heat gun use.
Attachment 220574
Attachment 220575
I also made cover panels for both sides of the upper frame rails.
Attachment 220576
And mounted my reservoirs and trim provided by Snakebite Motorworks. It fit really well and is a nice addition of bling to the engine compartment. I don't have a lot of shiny stuff so this is perfect.
Attachment 220577
Slowly working my way towards a full dive into wiring. I think I have a pretty good idea but a lot of the dash work is custom so we'll see.
Making good progress Tim
Those engine bay cover panels and reservoir grommets sure look slick. Has me re-thinking not using them. Snakebite has made them kind of the "must-have" option now...
I like the use of the Gates Powergrips on the heater hoses. Those things rock
Looking great, Tim. Those AC hoses are not something I'm looking forward to.
Nice job on the engine bay rail covers. I got mine from Brent and I think they add a lot to the finished look of the car.
Dave
The trim cover is a really nice piece for sure. I used Gates clamps pretty extensively on my Camaro build and just like the look and finish of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Thanks Dave. I think the AC hoses would be a lot easier if they included the 30 or 45 degree fittings for the lower hose. I believe Wedel456 used those and they take a lot of the "tightness" out of the picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
I too had a set of covers from Brent but unfortunately, my front end is welded up just a bit differently and we couldn't get them to fit. We actually went through two sets before determining the angles of my radiator support and/or bracing are just slightly different from his pattern car. I agree with you though, it's a nice finishing touch, especially with the trim cover for the reservoirs.
I trimmed these two panels to match the framework and hopefully provide clearance for the hood. I don't really understand why these aren't already trimmed by F5 but either way, they are now.
Attachment 220598
I also mounted my cutoff switch. Full disclosure - as you can see, I miscalculated my original hole and backing plate. I wanted it tucked up well but where I started didn't take into account the large body of the switch as well as the fact the panel is pivoted closer to the frame member due to the bend on the vertical mounting surface. So I had to drill out my rivets, make a new plate, fill the holes and redrill for the switch.
Attachment 220599Attachment 220600
And last but not least, I installed the transmission tunnel covers I purchased from Snakebite Motorworks. For all the odd angles they fit quite well. I did trim the DS to clear my fuel and brake lines and had to grind a sharp corner of one frame tube. I also chose to clearance the peak rather than grind the weld in the "V". I just thought it would be a little easier and I can install a small strap on the backside to fill the gap.
Attachment 220601
Oh, and diggin' the lift...
I have decided to take a U-Turn and major departure from what I was initially planning for my engine side electronics. I have spent the last couple of days dieting the PDB and O2 harness. I made a bracket to fit and mount the ECM to the PS frame rails on top. I also laid out the other harnesses and began advanced planning. And I concluded I don't like any of it. I know it's a good solution but the orientation of the connector on the PDB is not conducive to that mounting location, it's really long and made me really start thinking about options.
Coincidentally, I was reading through Snowman's build thread (again) to verify some information about my wheel and tire setup. While I was in there, I saw where he mounted his ECM (behind the dash) and thought "that might be the ticket". Since I don't have a glove box, and I can work the AC hoses around the body of the computer, I did some measuring. This is what I think I am going to go with:
Attachment 220785
This is going to entail drastically shortening the PDB harness, rearranging and possibly lengthening the engine harness but I really like this as a solution.
On another note, I think my car was built on Superbowl Monday. So far I have determined my front chassis is welded just a bit off, my rear chassis seems a bit off (can't get my fuel tank to sit flat to the frame members) and my dash was bent to an incorrect angle. In the picture above, you can see the gap between the firewall and the dash is a good 2". Pulling it down to meet the firewall actually distorts the flat face of the dash to the point I may need to find someone with a 6' brake willing to put this in there and bend it another 7 or 8 degrees. But that's a problem for another day.
It sounds like the guy that laid up the body on my MK4 may have moved to the frame welding crew. Jeff Kleiner told my that my MK4 body was one of the worst he'd ever seen. In the end, nobody will ever see the issues on the finished car.
My dash was the same as yours. I believe it is bent that way to meet up with the body. Otherwise you will have a big gap between it and the windshield. If I am following correctly.
I think this is a little different. I have looked closely at a lot of build photos and mine seems different. If the face of the dash is clamped square to the 3/4" cross tube, it kicks the forward dash up in the air as shown in the photo. There is no way this is correct or you'd be blowing hot engine air into the cockpit. If I (or the body) push the dash down to meet the firewall it bows out the vertical portion of the dash. I can make it work but I am pretty certain this is not correct. It puts a lot of strain on the dash that probably shouldn't be there.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
It's almost like the correct bend should be close to 90 degrees and mine is about 80.
Mine was like this with the top portion of the dash angled up and the front of the fire wall angle out towards the engine. It will require a lot of sealing. Mine was bent at 96 degrees. If at 90 I think there would be a gap between the top of my dash and the body straight into the engine bay.
Attachment 220835
Attachment 220836
Attachment 220837
Attachment 220838
I am going to measure the actual angle today. I don't really think there is much I can do about it. I am sure it will be tight against the body when I put it back on.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Tim & Brent - I'm surprised at the fit you guys are seeing. This is what mine looks like:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1759092580
Dave
I agree with Brent. Like that on purpose.
Mine was similar. Yours however appears to have gotten the quick, ballpark, kinda looks right, couple of seconds on the brake.
My dash is on a 9 degrees upward angle. I thought is was a little weird so I actually reached out to Paul to have him confirm. His was 8.5
Attachment 220839
You can just kinda see the blue squeeze clamp in the back ground holding the dash to the firewall flat.
Pretty certain that is what it's supposed to look like. Do you have the dash clamped at the cross bar so the face is vertical? If so, then it's revenge of the Superbowl Monday for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
Thanks Mike. I am going to try and find a kind soul with a large brake that would give this a quick tweak just so I don't have to force the thing to fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8secDuster
It's not clamped in that picture. I'll get one for you tomorrow and will measure the angle, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I just clamped the dash square to the vertical edge of the square bar it mounts to and the top of the dash still sits on the firewall. The angle of the top of the dash is exactly 10 degrees.
Here are a couple of pics:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1761834667
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1761834667
Thanks Dave, I appreciate you taking the time to do this. The picture earlier in my build thread is with mine clamped so it's square to the 3/4" cross tube and the face is vertical, essentially just like you did. When it's positioned like this, there is about a 2 1/2" gap between my dash and the firewall. I'm leaning strongly to finding someone that will put the additional 5 degrees or so of bend in mine so it sits naturally.
If it is that far off you could probably get FF5 to semd uou a replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Looking great! Just getting back through some threads.
Thanks. I am curious where you are on your build? Last I saw, you were trying to charge your AC system but that was 5 months ago so I am guessing you have made a bit of progress since then?Quote:
Originally Posted by MSumners
Hey Tim … sorry that I’m late to the party but my dash angle unclamped is 11 degrees and clamped was right at 10 degrees (see attached photos) sorry I don’t have a brake that long the one at work is 48”Attachment 221018Attachment 221019Attachment 221020
Thanks Mark, no worries. I have already sent a note to F5 asking for a replacement but in the meantime I am going to try a home brew brake on my 8' work table. I can clamp it down with some bar stock and then make a handle to try and tweak it the 4 or 5 degrees it needs to be. We'll see.
FYI, I started off with that same battery and it wasn’t enough to kick over the coyote. I had to go bigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
That's odd. I was under the impression many builders had used it with the Coyote. I guess I will have to see. Thanks for the heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by MSumners
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSumners
I've used that exact battery on my last three builds. Two Coyotes and an LS3. Including my current Coupe which started and ran great during probably my last cruise of the day yesterday. The white on the ground this morning suggests that's the case. I'd suggest checking the battery condition -- if you haven't -- with an AGM specific analyzer/charger. I used a CTEK Multi US 7002. There are others. As long as they test good, spin the Coyote just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim