Transmission Install - Part 2
It's been a learning curve, but the T-56 is now mated to the Coyote. A few head-scratching moments (what else is new!) along the way. I definitely learned a lot. To be honest, previously I couldn't have accurately described all the parts/pieces and their associated function. Now I know. This was a good experience.
- Clutch disc and pressure plate: True confession time: I couldn’t figure out why the pressure plate didn’t sit flush against the clutch disc. Best I could figure is one (or more) of the clutch pins was less than plumb. Not sure how to verify that assumption. Which brings me to the embarrassing part: I drilled out the clutch pin holes in the pressure plate 1/64” over. Surely, a tiny bit of added wiggle room would allow the pressure plate to sit flush, right? It didn’t help at all. So, back to YouTube (again!) to see more installation examples. I finally caught an off-hand comment on Rsnake’s build (video 64). He mentioned how he was evenly torquing the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern so as not to distort the fingers. Hmmmmm…. So, that must mean the pressure plate is drawn flush by the fasteners, like a spring of sorts. Makes sense now, of course. Sheesh!
- McLeod throwout bearing: long story short: after some guidance from McLeod tech support, I was able to install the bearing and obtain the needed clearance (0.100 → 0.250). Their instruction doc (included in the box) was less than clear to me. It also didn’t help that I got different measurements to the bearing face between the right, left, and top of the T-56 face. So, I made sure all three were >0.100 but less than <0.250. A bit of brake fluid on the shaft eased the bearing install. It’s a tight fit! If this needs to be removed down the road, I imagine a steering wheel puller or similar would be needed. Oh, and the recommended MC size is 3/4". I bought the 13/16" for the Tilton TOB, so will be listing it for sale in case anyone is interested. For those going with Tilton, I believe they recommend 13/16", but that should be verified with them.
- Tick Performance splash guard: the leaking T-56 issue that recently hit my radar (thanks to Lewma and JimStone) would be unwelcome. So, I installed the Tick Performance splash guard underneath the shifter cover plate. Figured if I don’t install it, mine will leak for sure. This doesn’t look easy to do once the trans is installed. So, I put the trans up on my workbench and took care of it while the getting was easy.
- Transmission to motor: I’ve read about some of the struggles to get these mated together. I leveled the motor in my DIY cradle, and also leveled the T-56. I put a light touch of grease on the front of the splines, as well as the locating pins. Not sure how much either of those precautions helped, but it didn’t fight me very much. Phew! I will probably install the starter now as well; I don’t think it causes any interference when dropping in the drivetrain. If someone knows otherwise, please let me know.
JimStone did a nice job documenting the Tick Performance splash guard, so I don't have much to add. Just a couple views. I put a light dab of blue Loctite on those #6 serrated nuts. Don’t want those falling down into the gear box…Uff da!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1761142846
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1761142846
McLeod TOB installed with required clearance. They recommend adding a piece of rubber hose over the 5/16” braided flex lines to protect them where they exit the bellhousing. Good idea!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1761142846
And, finally everything together. The rope was used to lift the T-56 off my workbench with my HF engine hoist. I used HF dollies to scoot it around and into position.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1761142846
Mounting system for Moroso tank
Before I set the drivetrain aside, I installed the starter motor. I don’t believe it will be a point of interference when I stab in the drivertrain, so one more thing off the shelf. I saved a few bucks and ordered WAI brand (3267N), the same starter Forte supplied for my Gen3 Coyote build.
Next up was making a bracket system for the Moroso coolant tank. Yep, I'm doing this mod again. Highly functional, and follows the Ford design. Works for me.
Decided to follow Edwarb's really cool design but knew it would be tricky. This is the deep end of the fabrication pool (for me). But why not give it a whirl, right?
A lesson learned to pass along, this mod should be done before installing the radiator rear duct panel. It would have been so much easier to locate the nutserts for the largest piece of the bracket system in the chassis tubes without that panel in the way. (Now I see why Edwardb wisely did this beforehand). Also, this would be much more difficult to do after the drivetrain is installed.
I picked up remnant pieces of .090 aluminum for the main bracket piece, and some .080 (5052 for the 90 deg angles) for the smaller support brackets. Plus, a short piece of ½” aluminum bar. All for $20 cash at my local metal supplier. (Not to mention some additional bar stock for my upcoming PCM mount, and dead pedal). Gotta love that place!
Getting back to my Neanderthal roots: big hammer. Block of wood. Beat to fit: Paint to match. It’s my only option to bend material this thick.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1762100039
Here are the various pieces of the system. Some "extra" parts not found in Edwardb's are the two smaller rectangular pieces. I found a gap between the bottom of the right triangle bracket where it attaches to the main bracket. Not wanting to redo that triangle bracket, I made these spacers. Also, the round spacer is needed between the smaller 3/4" chassis tube, because it sits forward of the 1" tube by about 1/8" or so. There's a piece of black 5/8" heater hose (sliced in half) within the welded U-shape as an insulator.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1762100039
A couple views of it altogether.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1762100039
Whoops! The rectangle spacers I mentioned above are just barely visible here. Won't be seen once installed, and this thing is still solid as a rock with them. My hat is off to Edwarb on his design.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1762100039
View from below once installed. The brackets will be coated black.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1762100120
View from above. I'm using Napa's version (THM 703-4112) of Ford's pressure cap (DG9Z-8100-A).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1762100039
I really enjoyed this challenge. And, since I have the right tools out, I'm going to continue the bracket making and fab one for the PCM, and attempt a dead pedal. Should be fun.
Bracketry (PCM, Dead Pedal, and Fuse Panel)
Bracketry, “A basic mounting apparatus created from metal. Complex examples are recorded in the annals of kit-car-building wizards. Aluminum is preferred. Prevalent in Factory Five builds. An indispensable pillar upon which the “Built not Bought” ethos rests. Bracketry sightings are frequently seen inside the garages of those who don’t follow instructions well.” Though still a Padawan learner, I aspire to become a bracketry Jedi when I grow up.
PCM bracket: Unlike many decisions, how and where to mount the PCM was a pretty fast one for me. Mostly because I pulled another page from Edwardb’s playbook. But also because the location he used is close to the location I used on my MK4 (F5 recommended). For those two reasons, I’m pretty confident the harnesses will reach where they need to go.
However, F5 supplied the MK4 chassis PCM bracket with my kit. Not much use on the Coupe. So, I followed Edwardb’s lead, and picked up a 2” wide x 1/4” thick length of aluminum bar. Drilled and tapped it for the mounting ears. I have a piece of heater hose under the mounting ears. That’s probably not needed, nor are the silicone pads supporting the rear of the PCM. But they make me feel better. Guess I’m consistent. When it’s time, the bracket will be attached to the chassis with 3/16” rivets (4 ea).
Here it is with the PCM laying in position. The Eastwood chassis match doesn't exactly match the chassis PC, but will be hidden. I just didn't want to leave it uncoated.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1763763125
View with the PCM bolted in place. The top of the PS FB is getting pretty busy: PCM, heater control valve, Coyote PDB, mega fuse, and eventually the wiper motor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1763763125
View from the side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1763763125
Dead pedal: spent a couple minutes on this one. Still not sure I like how it turned out. But I am sure it will serve its intended purpose. I use a dead pedal all the time in my DD. I started with 1.75” x ¼” aluminum bar. It was part of the bag-o-loot of remnants I recently picked up from a local metal supplier. Their large remnant bins are a gold mine.
Final dimensions are 1.75” at the top, tapering down to 1” at the bottom. Length is 6.5”. Intention here is to blend in with the other pedals as best I can. After some elbow grease with a Scotch Brite pad and WD-40 for a brushed look, I coated it with clear ceramic for durability. The clear didn't go on very evenly. I’m finally realizing I need to settle on one brand of spray paint. Switching around means differences in nozzle pattern and flow rate, etc. Which varies my results. Thankfully, it’s deep in the FB, so not highly visible.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1763763125
Fuse panel bracing: going back again to Edwardb’s playbook, I made up little 4” brackets to beef up the fuse panel. These definitely improved rigidity. I tapped the chassis tube for 10-32 for these brackets. This location seems to be well established. Like others, I don’t like it directly beneath the brake/clutch MCs, but otherwise seems like the place to install it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1763762879
View from above.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1763762879
View from below. Tapped the diagonal brace for 10-32s, and then 1/8" rivets to attach the bracing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1763762879
Time to put away the metal tools and get serious about electrical. Lots to do there. I think at least four months worth on my last build.
Main Power. Master Cutoff. Coyote PCM Harnesses.
Merry Christmas!
Electrical is underway in earnest. This is one of my favorite parts of the build. As I awaited arrival of all the bits from Del City and other suppliers, I started the dash. So, have some good momentum on that as well.
Most will recognize the influence from Edwardb’s Coupe build on my electrical approach. It’s also pretty close to my MK4 build as well. Since the kit supplied #4 AWG wouldn’t reach my master cutoff location, I ordered #2 AWG from West Marine. Turns out I have a store right here in my town. Bonus. With all the bits in-hand, here’s how I set up my main power and Coyote power distribution:
- Main power: #2 AWG from the battery to a master cutoff switch (Longacre 52-45760). Black #2 AWG to chassis ground, where the PDB and engine ground also collect under the ⅜”-24 bolt. A dab of dielectric grease there, as well as at most major power and ground connections. Ran into a bit of a surprise on the ⅜” lug Fusion connectors. These come prefilled with solder. Figured I could melt with my heat gun. Negative. Then tried my Weller table top torch. No dice. So, I had to step up to the big guns and pick up a Bernzomatic. I ordered the DuraCast 4000 BTU, but they sent me the DuraCast 8000. Bonus. A good tool to add to my repertoire, but I wasn’t planning on it.
- PDB power: #4 AWG from the unswitched side of the master cutoff over to the 250A mega fuse, then #4 AWG on to the PDB. This provides constant power to the PCM.
- Starter: #4 AWG from switched side of cutoff to the starter.
- 12VDC bus bar: #4 AWG from switched side of cutoff switch to a Blue Sea Systems bus bar mounted to the fire wall. It has four ¼”-20 studs, gathering all the chassis harness circuits (Ron Francis).
- Alternator: #6 AWG from 12V bus bar to 150A ANL fuse for some extra protection, then on to the alternator.
- Ground bus bar: mounted on the firewall. It also has four ¼”-20 studs, which I'll use to gather the chassis harness grounds, and grounding for the various accessory systems I’ll be adding like the Ididit high beam relay, Dakota Digital cruise control module, Wilwood electric parking brake, etc.
Coyote main harness: to accommodate better routing and to clean up unnecessary connectors/circuits, I unwrapped the main PCM harness. As has been reported by others, this is a commitment. It takes time. Lots of it. And patience. But, the end result is worth it to me.
Along with the circuits I eliminated as shown in the screenshot below, I also separated the #10 AWG ground wire (black), orange fan wire, and starter lead for optimal routing. Not shown in the table, but I also removed the HS Can (+/-) wires, and the Yellow “Key on 12V” wire.
Since I had to rewrap the plastic loom anyway, I used adhesive cloth tape. For electrical tape, I use Scotch 88, good up to 105 C.
In the red boxes below are the circuits I eliminated. They don't apply to my build.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1766680158
Here you can see the #2 AWG main leads from the battery, as well as the ground connections under the 3/8"-24 bolt for the battery, PDB, and motor. I will extend the fan circuit (orange coiled) later on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1766679997
Main power connections continue along the chassis rail. Main Coyote harness coiled up and ready to go. I'll connector and terminate the #4 AWG ground, #4 AWG starter, and blue starter trigger wire after the drivetrain is installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1766680049
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1766680049
Top of the PS footbox is getting pretty crowded, and I don't even have the wiper motor installed!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1766680255
This is the Longacre master cutoff. Mounted as high as I could on the PS panel just below the firewall.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1766679997
The Blue Sea Systems 12V and Ground bus bars mounted to the firewall. The 150A ANL fuse for the alternator circuit is to the right. Ground chassis point (5/16"-24) for the bus bar is visible on the 2" chassis tube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1766679997
Main Power. Master Cutoff. Coyote PCM Harnesses. (continued)
Here is the Coyote harness with the O2 sensor circuits. One for the left and one for right side. This harness is modified per F5 instructions, in order to reach the left and right O2 sensors at the header collectors.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1766679997
Dash Extension. And, a Big Mistake!
Two topics today: (1) the dash extension from Snakebite Motorworks, and (2) I made a big mistake. More on the mistake in a minute.
The full dash extension from Snakebite fit quite nicely. This is the first panel I haven't made myself, but with good reason. There's a lot going on here with planes and angles. Big shout out to Snakebite for his design and making it available. Also, big thanks to Papa for his support/beta testing. I haven't quite finalized my plan yet, but figure this will be a good spot for the five-position toggle panel, and the Wilwood e-brake button. Underneath and hidden from view will be most/all of the electronic controls/accoutrements.
Here's the view from the front. Since the trans tunnel will be carpeted, I'm leaving a small gap at the bottom of the extension panel. This gap will be fine tuned once I mock-up the trans tunnel cover. I may order Snakebite's blank cover since I'm deleting the mechanical e-brake handle, not to mention centering the shifter hole.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1767022016
I slotted the holes to fine tune the fitment. Moreso the upper/forward hole. Also visible is a simple bracket I made and secured with 8-32 screws. It's 1.5" wide, and there's another one on the left side of the extension as well. This really stiffens the center of the dash, as well as the extension panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1767022016
It was a bit tricky to locate the brackets and holes so everthing lined up. I slotted the holes to aid my precision impediment.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1767022016
It doesn't get much more basic than this, but they make a big difference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1767022016
The Big Mistake
As I mentioned in my last update, I've been working the dash buildup in parallel with the main power, Coyote PDB, etc. The dash has two HVAC vents located at the extreme ends, left and right. I drilled those holes at least a month ago, but it wasn't until yesterday I noticed my big mistake. My hole locations didn't account for the cross tube the dash mounts to. Sheesh!! Yep, it's basically been right in front of my eyes, or right next to the snake bit kit, as they say. No correlation to Snakebite Motorworks. :p
Here's a view of the left HVAC vent hole with the cross tube plainly in sight. Ain't no way the HVAC vent is going to fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1767022016
View from the rear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1767022049
What to do? I really don't want to replace the dash ($$$$). Not to mention the hours I have into it so far. Nor do I want to trim that skinny cross tube, or alter the plastic vent housing. Thinking about it overnight, perhaps a 0.040 backing plate will work. A bezel of sorts. Basically right over the top of the existing hole, following the contour of the dash's edge. Attach it through the existing holes that connect the lower dash corners, and an additional screw or two on its opposite side. My dash (and dash extension) will be finished in powder coat (Charcoal Rock from Prismatic Powders), so I can't cover the original holes with vinyl or leather.
What do you guys think? Is this a dumb idea? I welcome your advice and/or suggestions.
