That extra amount of angle on the vent opening gives a more aggressive look...like its going faster just standing still. Ready to attack! like it! Making note to do the same for mine. Thanks for that, Jeff.
That extra amount of angle on the vent opening gives a more aggressive look...like its going faster just standing still. Ready to attack! like it! Making note to do the same for mine. Thanks for that, Jeff.
I've not seen one of these skid plates in person but a couple of observations/questions.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
It looks like those are flat head screws but the plate isn't countersunk deep enough. I think if you ever test it on a speed bump you're going to leave the heads of those screws behind. They need to be countersunk so they are below the surface of the plate which they don't look like they are.
There's a tab on the leading edge that is bent up which makes sense. I don't understand the tab on the rear that is bent down. Again, dragging on a speed bump how is this going to work?
Maybe I'm missing something here.
All the screws are loosely fitted as I was taking off for PC. They are countersunk when fully screwed in. The area that folds down is still flush with the body of the plate, so no additional interference. I think it’s designed to give the bellhousing lip a little protection there too. Nicely designed IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
Correct, the rear tab is there to deflect down and away any road debris that you may encounter. It also does protect the lip of the bell housing!!! This skid plate kit is a great way to protect your investment!!! Think of it as cheap insurance on a large dollar item(s).
I did it the old fashion way and made sure everything is tucked up well above the frame rails.
Unfortunately, that won't stop road debris. Oil pans are tough, but not so much at 80mph. I was looking at the Backdraft cars. Their oil pans are below the rails by at least an inch. Not good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
As I was warming up the dremel up to start the carving on the louver holes, Mr. Kleiner put up the STOP sign and offered to send me his template for the louver holes. Man am I glad he did that. Thanks Jeff!! I didn't have this template when I cut them the last time and I made a 3/4" error on the driver's side hole that only I could really see, but it was there.
I did have the vertical aligned properly on the current cutouts, just not the horizontal or the angles. In fact, the holes, based on Jeff's template, were severely undersized by almost 3/4" on each side at the widest point and the angle was off by 6-7 degrees. Maybe I got a Friday body, as these holes were jacked up!
My method to open these up was first to align the template, ensure that it was completely level and then outline the template with a marker for cutting. Don't mind the 7.25" writing, as that changed with the template.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
I then took my 3" cutoff wheel and carved out the large pieces and made the hole wider to the template outline. Not all the way to the outline in case the blade jumped, but about 1/4" away. Just look at that jaggedy mess!!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
I then took my Dremel with barrel sander bit and grinded down to within 1/16" - 1/32" of the outline. I also defined my corners. Finished it all off with hand sanding, using an 80 grit sandpaper that slowly took layers off until I had it just about perfect. The holes came out AWESOME!!! Thanks again Jeff!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
More pics tomorrow when I install the louvers.
I've had these bezels for a while. I ordered them from Mike Everson at Replica Parts and had them powder coated to a gloss black finish. I like these as they only have two holes instead of 4 and easier to install. Well, they are supposed to be. Not sure why but I spent WAY too much time on these. First, I thought I could tap the 3/4" tube and screw them in there but that was too low for the hole. I then thought about rivnuts but that's a lot of big holes in a small area. I decided just to drill holes for 10-32" screws and use a nyloc to secure. I'm never going to pull these out anyway, but they are done and look good. Note to self, get this done before carpeting.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
My windshield frame also came back from powder coat and looks great. Assembly was fairly easy and I'm using the Whitby's stainless steel brackets for the side arms. I'll be flipping over the body tomorrow and start painting the underbody.
Before completely re assembling your windshield with the side legs double check the Whitby inserts. I used them on my last build without any issues. This time the holes didn’t line up right. Had to take everything back apart and cut the inserts in half. The upper 2 holes lined up and the bottom 2 did as well but one set was out of alignment when it was one piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
Maybe the locations of the arm holes have moved or maybe their machining specs have drifted. Either way I took some pics and will be sending them an email. It was a pretty spendy part considering what it is and should fit.
Good luck Chad. Car looks great.
Thanks Jessie. I meant to check the alignment before I put it all together but forgot. As with you, the last time I used them the holes aligned perfectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzboy54
Another Friday deal with these turn signal mounts. I expected to have to enlarge the holes but not sure why a template is not used when FFR drills them, as with the louvers, they were way off. One of the holes is not even centered in the perch and the threaded hole was not the same distance as the other, so needed to do some work.
But first! I had to decide which way I was going to go for the turn signals. Jessie scored up an idea from topherchrisb that I explored. I was able to get the base 3D printed from Chris' source and then added a pigtail. I increased the size of the base by 3/16" so that the threaded rod would have more meat with the epoxy. They look like this:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
But then, I started looking at the stock turn signal lights and thought what would they look like all blacked out. So bought a can of this stuff:
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And sprayed my lenses. Add the powder coated gloss black bezels and now I'm into batman territory and think I will go with these. I'll add some bright LED bulbs and we have a winner. If anyone is interested in these other lights I put together, just let me know as they are ready to plug and play.
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So, I re-drilled my own holes at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions which are roughly 1.75" apart. Then had to enlarge the center hole quite a bit so that the turn signal housing sat flush on to the perch. When measuring, one also has to account for the fact that the studs coming out of the turn signal housing are not created equal and every one of them seems to be a little different in terms of hole placement.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
The rears were easy and just about right on the money. I did take the bezels off of the square lights to have them powder coated.
Again, one of those deals where you have to be careful as these areas are delicate and things break easily. The 2 threaded bolts that secure the light have to be removed and are screwed and glued into the plastic of the lens. I carefully unscrewed them with a socket and then upon reassembly, added silicone and gently screwed them back into the housing. The metal bezel is crimped around the light in 6 places, so I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to pull them away and then used the same pliers when bending back down into position. I did break one off but shouldn't be an issue as there are 6 and it happened to be the side where the threaded bolt holds it down anyway. All in all, turned out great.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
As a side note, I did have to fix a weeping leak in my passenger side, rear brake line. It was on the flex line going to the wheel, so much easier to address. Again, I used these SECO 7 flare seals and they work wonders. Come in all sizes and in this instance a 3AN size fit the bill. I think I'm just going to start to use these as SOP. Replaced and dry as a bone. You can get them here:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3202
I also have a drip here and there oil leak out of my drain plug. I think I may have to change over to the nylon washer as the copper crush washers need to be really honked down on in order to seal on this pan. Maybe it's an issue with the plug hole itself but I'll find a washer that seals a little better next oil change.
One other mod I made while I'm giving everything a once over is changing the throttle rod up to the higher position on the assembly. It has made the responsiveness feather lite at the pedal with less effort on the linkage despite the slightly elevated rod. I will have to adjust the pedal a bit but this is the ticket!
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I got too aggressive with the DA sander and took my front turn signals off completely :D
Does kind of smooth it up some I think.
Attachment 217691
LOL. Actually that looks great Mike. I was tempted at taking the quick jacks off based on Hacksaw's car, but decided not to. I like the look.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
More of the same for the headlight cutout. Again, I have no issue with enlarging an undersized hole, but when the holes are off to a point where a new hole joins the old, or the entire thing is out of round, then it becomes somewhat of an issue unless you start filling things. I'd almost wish that they didn't drill any holes as it just adds to the labor time. There's definitely a case to not pay for this service. Here's an example.
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Rant over. :p I used the template and enlarged the headlight hole about 1/8" at the top of the semi-circle to bring it round. I used the top hole as the pilot and re-drilled the mounting hole to the left. Both sides had the same issue.
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Buckets ended up symmetrical and fitting nicely. Maybe I'll come back and fill in any FFR made holes.
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Now it's time for the undercoating. I put the brace in and with some help, turtled the body. When the brace is in while it's upside down, the 2x4 seems to put a lot of pressure in a small area at the dash, so I removed it and will reinstall before I flip it back over. I also used two jacks to lightly support the trunk area so it's not just hanging. Not sure if that is necessary.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Wiped all of the sanding dust out with a rag and acetone. I then hit the entire body with 80 grit which took off any strings or raised strands of fiberglass. Wiped it all down again with acetone and am ready to paint. Lots done today so hanging up the build until tomorrow. I should have it coated and back on the buck by Wednesday for final louver fitting. Then the body will be done and ready to be installed for the final time.
Gotta love doing that in the heat!
Higgy
The turn signals look cool. Can you add a pic with them lit?
My headlight cutouts were not close. My beef was the key holes were way off. By like a cm. Just don't bother then. Would have been better off doing it myself. I had to do some wonky stuff to make it fit right. It's all hidden but I had a lot of issues with holes being in the wrong location. Filled a few and re cut.
If I was doing it again I would absolutely eliminate the quick jacks. But then I wouldn't have anything to hit my shin on in the garage.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
I like the clean look and had no QJs or bumpers on my Mk3 and have eliminated them and made hidden mounts with the Mk5. But yeah,not banging the shins or forehead is a big plus!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1747684883
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1747684932
Jeff
I’m really impressed with all the work you are doing. It almost (but not quite) makes me feel like I could do it. That said, I am enjoying your build. Well done Chad!Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
Spectacular. I’m eliminating quick jacks as well. Also maybe doing the Mike Brey delete of the turn signals. I like clean also…Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Time to add some Herculiner undercoating. Not really a fan of the process but necessary. After the support beam was in place, the family picked up the body and flipped it over on to a couple of drop cloths I had down in the garage. I did remove the brace after it was flipped but will put it back in before it goes back to the buck.
Supplies Needed:
1. Herculiner Kit (Comes with rollers but the brush sucks)
2. Chemical resistant gloves
3. New role of 1.5" painters tape
4. Dropcloths or Tarp
5. Acetone
6. Two 2" brushes (One for each coat)
7. Rags for cleanup
8. 80 grit sandpaper
9. 1-Gallon drill mixer (Walmart)
10. Paint Tray with 2 liners
First step was to wipe down the inside body with acetone. Once all of the dust and dirt removed, I went back over and scuffed with 80 grit sandpaper. Then used acetone again to wipe all of that clean for a nicely prepared surface.
Second step is optional, which is to tape off open areas. You don't have to do this, but it does allow you to work faster and it keeps this tarry mess off of the outside body. Literally takes a full roll to get all of it and another 45 minutes of prep time.
Lastly, open the gallon of Herculiner, hook up the mixer to the drill and start churning. The particulates in this paint are heavy and need to be moved around every 15 minutes or so. Keep the gloves on unless you like to acetone wash your hands to get it off.
Took me about 40 minutes for first coat and 30 minutes for the second. Takes 1-4 hours to dry in-between coats and it works off of moisture in the air. With the Florida humidity these days I think it dried in about 10 seconds. :p
Finished the second coat and added some extra in the wheel wells and used the entire gallon. I removed the tape and I'll be giving it about 48 hours to dry completely before I put it back on the buck. Turned out really nice, so bring on that road debris!
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
I put in the trunk struts tonight. Uneventful but I did follow Kleiner's lead and had to offset them just a bit as they align with the seat belt bezels if installed straight ahead. Shouldn't affect operation. Struts that I used were the Suspa C16-02622. My struts say 60lbs, but they are actually 28. Maybe a misprint.
I had the hood struts in the back trunk area and didn't realize when I took the car out for a spin over the weekend. I have one strut that must have gotten tossed during the joyride and is now MIA. :rolleyes:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Jessie asked that I post a video of these blacked out front turn signals in operation. I have to say that I'm surprised at how bright these are despite the black coating. I'm wondering if it enhances the brightness somehow. I think I could hail aliens from Uranus. If you can't see me turning, then you must be blind.
https://youtube.com/shorts/M8tQYRABsyo
These are the bulbs that I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RNCD3L1...sin_title&th=1
I have a pair of those in my riding mower and they work great.
Holy crow, that is some kind of sorceryQuote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
Got my louvers installed today and used the 3M HSRF with studs. A little bit of practice to get the HSRF correct. 3" glob of material followed by a 3" stripe of hardener. Says on the label that the fumes can cause hearing damage among other things. Not sure how that's possible, but I don't want to find out so wore a respirator while mixing and applying. Also, no cardboard as a non-porous surface is needed.
Picture is right before mixing, but the greenish color is what I was going for and of course, made too much. This stuff gives you maybe a 5-minute working time in the Florida heat, so I made sure to have my pattern drawn on the backside of the cutout so I knew exactly where it was going and ensuring it was level. Scuffed with 80 grit sandpaper, cleaned up with Acetone and ready to roll. The great thing about Jeff's cutouts is that they use every bit of the real estate to accommodate pretty much the entire louver, so they look very prominent. Thanks again Jeff!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
I need to take just a little more off of the forward bottom angle to even it out but looks great overall. I'll take them off tomorrow and sand down any extra HSRF to clean it up.
And by the way, these look 100 times better with Jeff's pattern than what I did last time. No one ever notices these kinds of things if they are a little off, except of course the builder. Mine looked like this on the last build. Not terrible, but much better now. Areas like this is where the detail counts.
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As many have done, I used the Fiebings leather dye and Resolene for my door straps. Deep black with a nice finish over the top. I'll put these in a zip lock and wait for my door fitment in a couple of weeks.
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Had to go with the Cipher cam-lock red seat belts again. I had the 3" last time and thought I had ordered the 2" this time, but guess not. They are a little heavy but when staged in the car, they look fantastic, so it's a tradeoff. The cam-lock is SO much better than the latching, especially if you have a passenger as they typically can push a button but have a hard time getting out of the latched belts. Also gives a modern flair if you are looking for it.
In the Florida sun you need a UV protector on bright and dark colors, so I'm using the Scothbrite UV protector on all of the cloth areas. Seemed to hold up well but as with anything, they need to have a maintenance coat from time to time. I'd say every 6-8 months or so, depending on exposure. Laid these out, soaked em up and should be dry for tomorrow as I plan to install them.
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These belts come with nice eyelet bolts instead of having to use typical ones. Obviously you can't see them but when clipping the belt on it makes it super easy to secure and remove if needed, without having to take the seats out.
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Well, still waiting on my tunnel cover material to be sent back to me from Intatrim. They've been great with the communication and should be sending to me next week. Then it will be a few days at the upholsterer before I can make a final install.
I'm also using Redline Goods to manufacture a leather custom shifter and e-brake boot. I used them last time and they make great stuff with lots of options. The leather is soft and plush. They are very detailed in terms of gathering the measurements for a perfectly fitted boot. I'm going for a diamond stitch similar to my seats. These aren't pictures of my shifter or ebrake but it is the material design I'm getting. Takes about 3 weeks to make and they are here in the US.
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Turn Signals and Tail Lights are all Weatherpacked, wire shrinked and ready to go. I also cut the tail light holes larger to accommodate the weatherpack housing. Really like these square lights versus the 4 individual ones. The individuals didn't need the trailer deal, but these look a lot cleaner to me. Although they are more delicate so you have to be gentle when handling, not only the casing but the wiring as the connector is really only held in place by some kind of resin. You'd think they would be a little more robust, but I also said that about the turn signal trim ring.
I didn't cut any lengths off of the wiring. The turn signal wiring looks like it might be a little long, but that's easy to manage. The tail light wiring harness almost looks too short, so we'll see.
Really digging the darker look on those turn signals!
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A couple of other minor things and I should have the body back on for the final time, sometime next week. I'm taking a week off from work so it will help me get a jump on the initial fittings of the doors, hood and trunk. Getting close!
Looking good! I also eliminated the QJs on my MkIII. I like the clean look.
Greg
Attachment 218297
Thanks Greg! I'll be including the quick jacks. I've always liked the look. Although I am going with the 1/2" tubes, front and back, and cut them down a bit. The fronts are 4.75" and the rears are 2.75" on the outer tube. That will pull them in a bit and avoid the shin beatings to an extent.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
FYI, if you plan to install the molded grommets in the front you should use 3/4" O.D tubes, not 1/2"Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
Jeff
Ah, I meant the 3/4" tubes. That's what I've got. Thanks for looking out Jeff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Once I sprayed the belts with UV protector, I installed them. Cipher belts in the house! They sure do pop and make the red diamond stitching on the seats stand out. The round hooks make this so easy for install and love the cam locks. Still don't have my console cover from Intatrim, but hopefully on its way soon so I can button all of this up.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Cipher gives quite a bit of additional strap slack. I didn't want to cut it as it has nice finished edges so just rolled up the slack and secured at the top of the trunk area.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Even though this was only a couple of splines off, it would drive me nutty if it wasn't totally centered. I loosened the two set screws of the steering shaft at the power steering coupler as well as the bearing at the front footbox and the set screws at the pillow block.
I really only needed to loosen the two set screws at the steering shaft coupler and it moved easily. Compliments of having the bearing on the inside of the footbox versus outside. I had it on the outside in the last build and there really is no adjustment room at the coupler if you need it and everything needs to be loosened in order to get it. In fact, I'm glad I took it apart as I think when I was fiddling with the correct shaft height for the turn signal module, one of the set screws might have pulled up into the splines a bit, or I did that on initial fitment. Either way, was able to adjust to the correct setting, apply blue Loctite again and reassemble. I was also able to get a slightly better gap at the turn signal hub and of course, the wheel is now perfectly centered.
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I had already put rivnuts into the F-panel at the first part of the build. I did not have the panel married up to the rivnuts on the first pass, so needed to do it here. Easy process. I simply aligned where I wanted the panel and fed the 10-32 screws in from the backside of the rivnut with a dab of anti-seize on the end of each screw. Screw it in until it touches your panel and you have your location. Mark with a center punch and drill. Perfect holes every time. I also notched the top of each panel to make room for the wiring harness.
Upon the initial fitment, my panels were touching the wheel. I'm running 265 sized tires but it was right on top of them. The F-panel flange was not bent correctly and I had to bend it out a bit for the proper fitment. I've read that others have had the same issue but that wasn't the case on the my first build. Both sides were the same way. Either way, all set and good to go. I'm sure I'll have to trim and/or massage these in for final fitment but this will make it easier. Adding the rivnuts will also give me panel access in the future without having to drill out rivets and replace.
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
My powder coater gave me a freebie with some of my other stuff last week. He powder coated the skid plate at no charge. Another one of those, no one will see it but me, but it sure looks nice under there. That aluminum oxidizes over time, so will serve as protection too. The sheen should make it easy to clean as well. The upside down jack stand is a little freaky....
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This is the week I put the body back on for the final time. Just buttoning up more small things over the next day or two and on to the final chapter of the build as the paint window is in November. I'm off all week so should be able to get a nice start. The doors, hood and trunk lid will come out of the guest room bathroom, so win for the wife as well. ;)