LOL! Good one and so true.Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz Rules
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LOL! Good one and so true.Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz Rules
If you are loosing voltage when you put any real load on the electrical system and know that you have a good battery, check to see if the battery cables are the problem. I had this problem one time and found the "new " battery cables corroded inside the factory crimped ends. When I replaced the cables with more new cables the problem was solved. Cut the removed "new" cable ends off and found corrosion inside. NOT VISIBLE UNTIL i CUT THEM APART.
Thanks for the reply. All of the cables, and connectors are new.
I've already used the battery in the photo (top one), and
All the accessories came to life.
Video time, start-up time tomorrow. First crank, no leaks? I can only hope!
bahhhhhhhh...No fuel pressure.
Guess I'll have to check the pump, and ensure there's enough fuel in the tank for the pick-up.
There's nothing coming out of the send port at all; I'm hoping it's low fuel level.
Played around a bit more, and found that the plastic bag covering the filler neck (aka. old crossover tube) is getting sucked into the tank ("pushed" for the physics geeks).
It appears the pump is taking in air, and my fuel level is too low; there is about two liters of fuel split between both tanks. I can't tip the tank enough to pool the gas on
one side unfortunately.
Tomorrow is the day? :confused:
Glad you found the problem. Can't wait to see the video of that first start.
Hey, don't feel bad. I once spent 45 minutes pulling on the starter rope for a snowblower before I thought to check the tank!:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
Not so smooth:
- Fuel issue ended up being too little fuel in the tank, and a busted FP gauge.
- Leaking at the pump seal, and cross-over. Hoping that the AN fitting was just loose. Not sure about the pump seal yet.
- Engine backfire. Loaded with fuel? Vacuum leak? Other? Hmmmm...time to figure it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMOX1...ature=youtu.be
Checking around for vacuum leaks, loose connectors, loose bolts, and guess what I found?
The cam sensor harness was not fully seated. I had removed that to plumb an oil line to prime the engine. :o
EDIT: looking back at this photo, you can see that the clip is not even hooked. I did remember to tighten the
bolts though.
Attachment 14061
Hopefully, that's all it takes to fire the motor. Going to have some dinner, and then clean up my mess around the car.
If it's not too late, I'll try to start it this evening. The neighbours are gonna love me!
Really looking forward to hearing your toy blast up and down the street.
Question....are you still an F-Body guy at heart??
It's a go!!! :cool:
Just a little setback with the cam sensor harness, but the motor is alive. Alive, but not all well...just yet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qtz1uTuGmbA&feature=youtu.be
By the end of the video there's a tiny backfire, and then the engine dies. Could be lack of fuel again as I
was repairing the AN cross-over connector. I'll check the level, and do it again later.
The HP Tuner scan shows an odd trend for B1/B2 Injector pulse width which jumped from an average of 4.8 msec
to 12 msec quite rapidly. Something leaned out, and the computer tried to compensate.
Attachment 14069
My gauges are not working except the tach., so that's my next order of business. Power is there, and signal
lines are connected. Must be my method of connection:
I= 12V switched power
G= Ground
S= Sensor signal
Seems good to me? Power is there on I, and S.
I'd really like to get this go-kart testing done before the snow arrives. This weekend will be dedicated to getting the
engine locked up, and wires trimmed, tucked, and loomed.
For sure! I've owned four Camaros to date, and still have a love for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
I'm "starting" to love the GTM now that things are going my way. I don't think I'd ever trade back, but never say never.
I hope you all had a great holiday break. Today is the big day for family gathering, but I'll be combing through threads looking for seat install
ideas until the family rolls in.
I'm wondering if anyone has modified the floor pans for strength? I'm not using the Corvette rails, but the sheet metal seems flimsy no matter what
sliders are used. My plan is to weld bar stock across the pan area to the rails, then bolt the sliders to the bar stock.
For those already in the driving stage: What are your impressions of seat stability using the FFR locations?
Back from Oklahoma, and ready to press-on with the build. I've spent the last two days wiring up my MIG welder, and testing it out. All I need is some flux-core wire to start tacking up
the exhaust, and seat brackets.
I've decided not to post the photos of the seat rails until they're painted, and up to par. I get too anxious with my camera, and have been posting a lot of garbage just to get some attention.
You've all set the bar so high, and take such care in your work. I need to take more time, and be more selective of the quality of photos that represent my finished car.
It's nice to be back, and get this car ready for some go-karting!
Time to show off my spot welds! After a few hours of watching videos, reading, and practicing on scrap metal I tried my first ever spot weld. It looks pretty good, and is holding well.
I have a new respect for those who weld for a living! Maybe after a months of practicing, I'll be able to weld my own bead, but for now I'll let my buddy complete the task.
If all goes well, I'll have the exhaust routed tonight, and the seats/accelerator pedal in tomorrow. There wont be any chance of a test drive until the weather improves however. We
currently have over a foot of snow, and it's still coming down. Maybe next week for a test drive?!
Here are some shots of the test fitting, and spot welds. This is three inch, mandrel tubing.
Attachment 15356Attachment 15357Attachment 15358Attachment 15359
Tino,
Not trying to burst your bubble, I think the correct term for your welds are 'Tack Welds'. A Spot weld is when the pieces of metal are clamped between two electrodes and then the current flows through the metal between the electrodes welding the different layers together. Either way they look good. Another word of advice, make sure to clean the area of the weld really well of all oils, wax's and coatings, this will ensure a good weld everytime. I've overlooked this a few times in my haste and you learn quickly the difference it makes.
I'm very impressed with your work, and agree that the sheet metal does seem a bit flimsy even when compared to a normal cars floor pan which normally has some form of strengthener where the bolts go through the floor pan to spread the load rather than a normal sized washer on a flat sheet of metal.
Just my 5 cents
Mick
Hi Mick,
My bubble is fine, no ego here. I always thought the two terms were interchangeable, but thank you for explaining the difference.
Welding is certainly a new world for me, but learning new things is what this
GTM is all about. I've been cleaning the weld area with a file to get a nice clean surface. After the welding I use a combination of a file, and wire brush/ire wheel.
Do you suggest more cleaning?.
Thanks,
Tino
Tino,
No your welds look good, it was just a friendly reminder that something so simple can make a big difference. I have forgotten to turn the gas on a few times for the first weld of the day when I was working on my XY Falcon Ute (Australian Ford 1970). How's the seat rails going?
Mick
Seat rails are going well, but I'm just finishing up the right bank exhaust before fitting the seats. I should have this ready to test by Wednesday of next week!
exciting! love the updates :DQuote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
Thanks Flam., although after battling with the car this week, I'm more exhausted than excited!
Here are some pictures from the accelerator pedal, and seat install. They still need paint, but still worthy to show. The rail had to be modified in order to get extra
clearance between the headrest, and the upper roll-bar. Now the bottom of the seat is about 1/2 inch from the floor pan.
Attachment 15673Attachment 15674Attachment 15677Attachment 15676Attachment 15675
Still have to tie up some loose ends with the throttle cable, and ummm...connected/bleed the clutch line. For some reason, that small
detail slipped my mind after installing the transaxle.
Finally picked up the throttle cable! It's a 12', Teleflex, and it's a beauty. Nice quality piece, but it will need some slight modification
to mate up with the throttle blade. Just waiting on the warmth for the test drive!
Attachment 15963Attachment 15964
As I'm waiting, I have been painting some pieces to prevent rust like the reluctor wheel, and axles. Grind, clean, prime, paint, and clear.
Maybe a little buff to shine them up afterward?
Attachment 15962
One camera- happy shot of the axle, and reluctor in place. It looks much better than rust, that's for sure. I'll have to grind down, and treat the hub before bolting it all together.
Attachment 16098
Indecisive little me is still trying to figure out what tail lights to install. These are running high up in the ranks, but damn they're not cheap. I'm going to scout out some
more options before pulling the trigger. I just dropped some money on the remote door solenoid system, and 90 degree hinge kit (lambo style). Anyone need a part-time dishwasher, or grounds keeper for the Summer? :eek:
Anzo LED, 321169
Attachment 16099
IPCW Onyx 336CX
Attachment 16100
Attachment 16101
Well if you want to be creative, think out side of the box, save money, start with these that Crash sells http://www.myraceshop.com/GTM_LED_Tail_Lights.html if that is not your cup of teaQuote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
Then follow Mike DeGuire tail light mod http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ght=tail+light
Or
With a little imitation, experiment and combine the both and have something that no one else has
Ummm, that makes my brain hurt. I hate talented people! I think I'll just front the cash for a production LED light when the time comes. Most of this car willQuote:
Originally Posted by Presto51
have temp parts until next season when I can save up the funds to get it done right (IE: paint, exhaust, lights, cosmetics).
With exhaust on the upgrade list, I broke down, and decided to try some welds on the 16 gauge pipe. I'll say it's not perfect, but it's not the ugliest I've seen
This was done using flux core, wire fed machine. Having the ability to see the "weld path", and the molten pool flowing made it possible to achieve a fairly consistent
bead width, and straight line. After hours of messing with power settings, wire speed, tip angle, and drag speed this is the result:
Attachment 16228Attachment 16230
The fillet radius is not so even, and I'd say there's a bit much pooled up in some spots.
Attachment 16231Attachment 16227Attachment 16229
I just need to clean up some of the splatter, and buff the surface for a cleaner look. These pipes might even get
sent out for coating to give them some appeal. We'll see what happens when the body goes back onto the cage.
I still need to figure out the muffler placement, but for now it's going to have straight pipe out the back.
Way to go Tino. Building an exhaust is a great customization project. I started welding the same way as you. A flux core wire feed. The more we weld the better we get. Lucky for us the GTM build takes a few years especially when you start modifying stuff. With each project I gain more confidence I am sure you will too. By the time we are done with our cars I'm sure you will be laying down dimes like the best if them. Keep up the good work.
John
As long as I have your blessing John, I must be on the right path! Here are a few more photos of the transaxle, and throttle link.
This is how the G96 hooks up using cable shift. You have to grind off/drill out the ball posts, then retrofit the threaded pins into the levers.
Can't wait to bang through the gears once the clutch pedal is bled (still need to find a banjo bolt that fits the slave).
Attachment 16267Attachment 16268
The throttle cable is made by a company called Teleflex (used for marine applications). This thing is durable, and looks solid. A modified
accelerator pedal from a Prelude makes it all come together nicely. A little grinding, and paint on the metal tab, then she's good to go!
Attachment 16266
"No go" on the slave cylinder fitting today. I thought a 12 mm x 1.25 was the proper size. It turns out, the thread pitch
is not 1.25. So much for my crude measurements! A thread pitch gauge is tough to read while standing on your head, and
getting around all of the obstacles in the GTM engine bay. Eric wrote to tell me me found an adapter, and it's enroute
via mail. Hopefully it arrives this week.
The door popper kit arrived today. I'm looking forward to having the keyless entry option, along with provisions for trunk release,
and remote lighting. Once the scissor hinge kit arrives (aka Lambo door), I can start putting the doors together.
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/366/366-99000.jpg
I can't wait to get back to the body work phase...:rolleyes:
Oh no. Please tell me you are not doing "Lambo doors"? If you do a search on here you will read that they are a HUGE PITA to get right. Thus making a job that is already difficult into a complete nightmare. But to each his own, maybe you like being chained and whipped for all I know.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
Tino;
get the door frames, window track and the glass into the door shell, you might be pressed for space to get those door poppers in there. Start with passenger side as that one seems to have less room for some reason. I used the AVS system and placed them inside the two horizontal frame members and works fine, but mine are "flat" type.
I'm on the same side as Crash, you really want to try lambo doors on this car. I hope you install paint savers all over that door area.
The electromagnetic solenoids will work, but there operation yields a loud "thud". They are also capable of creating a large (relative) pull force.
The AVS actuators are basically two door lock actuators working together to create enough force to move the latch. There operation is almost unnoticeable and I recommend them over the electromagnetic type when the application is appropriate.
Mike, I like a little pain; this car has put me through hell some days as you can relate. On the bright side, I've learned a few new techniques, and skills so trying the scissor door hinge is a welcomed challenge.Thanks for the tips David, and Vidal. I'll do my best to make them fit, but ordering the flat door lock solenoids seems like a better solution. I'll keep you posted on the pain, and suffering.Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
Tino,Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
Start a thread on your door hinge adventure as I am sure that there are lots of fellow builders who are, at the very least mildly curious and at worst masochistic voyeurs. I personally am curious to see how you resolve the challenge. Life inside the box is boring...... very boring.
Get after it!
Will do Fraser. I welcome, expect, and will overcome the frustration. I'm getting used to the routine by now. ;)
For those using the G96.00 transaxle with slave PN# 997.116.237.04, this is
what I recommend for materials:
12 mm x 1.0 metric to AN adapter (-4 AN). Russell# 670420
10 feet of PowerFlex, Teflon braid hose. Russell#632560
90 degree PowerFlex Endura Hose end, Russell#620441
Straight PowerFlex Endura Hose end, Russell#620141
3/8" NPT to - 4AN Adapter Fitting (Master end, NC24), Russell#640301
This will get you hooked up, first shot with no headaches. -4 AN is more
readily stocked around here, but there are options for -3 AN if you can find
a supplier.
I'm accumulated a bunch of materials during this jig-saw puzzle assembly that
are no longer needed due to revamping the system. I'll list them up for sale
soon. Hopefully someone can benefit from my setbacks.
Installed the clutch line today! I broke down and bought some temporary fittings as the -4AN to 12mm x 1.0 fitting is backordered. Tomorrow I'll bleed the system, and might be able to roll around a bit (if the weather is warm)! We are still getting 0-5 degree C temps. :S
Also spent time looming wires, and cleaning off a bit of dust (need to get "Kempo-clean!). I'd like to get some video of the startup for sharing. If nothing else, I'll put the car on jack stands to run the motor up to operating temps, and run through the gears. It will be nice to hear it running again since before Christmas.
Attachment 16497Attachment 16498Attachment 16499
Some finishing touches for today. Seat belts, trimmed some electrical wiring,
connected a couple of gauges, and put the car on jack stands.
Tomorrow's job: bleed the clutch, brakes, and go for a spin. I guess I'll be
rerouting some steel lines too! Thanks Taz for the heads-up.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...55900863_n.jpg
Don't mind the direction of the exhaust. It's temp to keep the heat/gas away from the intake.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...33188138_n.jpg
Did another start-up today. The motor reached operating temps, with no drama. I'll post a short video soon...because I know how much everyone loves watching
a car idle on jackstands! ;)
It sounds, and idle much better with the extended exhaust pipes. It's almost too tame, and I'm wondering if the cam selection was a little on the conservative side
after watching the scanner. Check this out:
(open tri-y manifold)........(tuned 3 inch exhaust via PipeMax)
Attachment 16594Attachment 16552
Pretty scary stuff. The first column only populated after several minutes of run time. This was before the exhaust
was tuned. Notice the scattered idle. No PCM tuning for either scan. Amazing how a couple feet of pipe can
tame an engine.
I spent some time bleeding the clutch with no success. The pedal remained lifeless even after some troubleshooting.
I'm thinking the slave may be the issue as it was pre-loaded during the install by about 1/4". It didn't seem right at
the time, but Erik says it's fine. I'll trust the driveline expert, and try some other things tomorrow. My plan is to
force the fluid through the slave bleeder, and push the air out of the master bleeder.
She's done. Brakes, and clutch feeling tight with a little help from my "pressure creator".
Attachment 16578Attachment 16579
Here's a quick video with the new pipes. Don't mind the left exhaust extension, I didn't have it clamped tight enough...or at all!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR9dn0ZVt_Q
I'm ready for a road test, but it has been raining for the past two days, and forecasting more tomorrow. Damn those April showers.
Door hinges arrived today! These things are HEAVY; I'd estimate 25 lbs. per side. Definitely a quality product, but it's gonna weigh me down.
More rain today, and calling for 5-10 cm of SNOW tomorrow! :eek: Can I have a test drive soon, Miss Nature?!
Attachment 16580Attachment 16581Attachment 16582
Tino;
your a brave man to tackle gull wing doors...keep us posted as to the progress with these hinges.