I just glued it down with silicone and put a clamp on it until it cured.
Printable View
I just glued it down with silicone and put a clamp on it until it cured.
Can someone please post the Subaru 06+ caliper mounting bolt center to center measurement?
thanks in advance!
Yes I did as I modified those panels and attached other panels to themQuote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
In case anyone wasn't aware, FFR updated the side cooling tubes sometime last year. The new tube has a slight bend in it and reaches all the way through the pedal box.
I had my heart set on the hard cooling lines from Breeze and now I'm glad I held out. The V2 setup from breeze uses the bent pipe and reduces the amount of tubes and couplers. IE less weight and less chance of leaks... It was also cheaper.
I was able to pick up the new version of the side tubes for $85 shipped from FFR. $60 if you can pick them up.
The version 2 kit is $439 vs $570 for the original style. So I saved $46 with benefits.
fitment was a little tight, I needed to tighten the clamps on the tubes then push them into the pedalbox area but I should be able to get to them if needed if I get creative. The lower hose still rubs on the steering rack bellows so I will need to shim my (STi)radiator up a little.
All in all I am happy with this setup. Anyone needing original style side tubes or adapters or flex line let me know.
I will upload some more files later, this is a great setup.
Attachment 51627Attachment 51628
Huh. That's pretty nice that they're pre-bent. I used a lot of the FFR flex tubing and ended up making some mounts to the frame for that reason. This could've saved a bunch of work for me.
What's the point of doing hard lines over the flex lines from FFR? Seems like a large cost for marginal convenience?
I did it for a few reasons,
The looks, these things look so great, I will post a few more images very impressive.
Smoother flow, the flex like will certainly slow down flow, trap gunk in the folds (although those fins probably radiate quite a bit of heat)
Less chance of leaks, no slide on this adapter over that adapter
All new parts, no reusing clamps and chopping up the Subaru hoses. (new gates hoses and claps are only like $30) but it all adds up.
Is it a luxury? yes, but it really cleans up the front of the car.
10-32 drill tap http://www.amazon.com/-tool-home-Com...0-32+drill+tapQuote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
as long as the material is thick enough they work just fine and are much quicker than a riv-nut
I'd definitely like to see these pics. I probably won't re do mine until/unless there's a problem with it, but it's nice to see the optionsQuote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
What firewall grommet are you using for the steering column? I tore the one that came with my kit and need to replace it after I shorten the column.
Nothing special Just the FFR one with that white Subaru cap on there from an STi (which is not really doing anything but it was in good shape and I had it) , have ffr send you a few in an envelope or McMaster should have some
Not the best shots but you get the idea, the rear rubber needs to be trimmed, but not going to do it until the engine's dropped in.
Attachment 51733Attachment 51734Attachment 51735Attachment 51736Attachment 51737Attachment 51738Attachment 51739Attachment 51740
That bend on the side of the car makes the pipe enter the frame into a much better place.
It does Frank, the only issue I am having now is the lower pipe rubbing the steering rack bellows. (not a hard pipe problem, a FFR problem with the radiator mount location) I tried putting one of the shifter grommets in there but it still hits, any more and I'm out of space on the radiator peg. It just sucks, had a big day planned for working on the car, and now I cant do ****. I guess I will order Rori's spacers if he still has some.
I am getting tired of nothing fitting quite right.
edit, ordered Rori's spacers, had a beer and some cake and all is right with the world!
I get that, I get that! Understand fully and I'm with you. Hopefully you'll find a solution soon enough to remove that block off of your road.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
Thanks Frank we'll all get there eventually.
I am usually a pretty cool and collected guy but this piece had me bleeding and seeing red.
a special "forget" you to sheet metal 80175 the fitment is just terrible, drilling is a pain and I was already frustrated with the kit.
Anyone else fight this guy? had to trim the metal quite a bit, the angle of the fold is wrong (you can see the gap at the top) I drilled a hole for the brake line to pass through, but tightening may be an issue.
I'm done for the day. Miller time.
Attachment 51772
Hang in there order of assembly using the manual just isn't right, we have all struggled with that panel later in the build. (I ranted re this over a year ago) Your early kit having a spacer/radiator issue is almost understandable. The fact that I know it was still there for a kit in the 200's is uncomprehendable
Yea the piece was a pain for me. If I recall correctly, I did a fair amount of trimming to it and didn't get as many rivets into that I wanted.
Thanks guys, Glad I am not alone.
Typically I sit there fiddling for a while thinking that I am just a derp and can't figure out the fitment, then I realize it's just the parts.
I will tackle the other side tonight. I guess it's time to stop nitpicking about parts that no one will ever see. :p
Oh yeah that piece of alu! Damn you 80175, had many tirmming too and not so many rivnuts as well. I worked on it before the body and wheel wells, hopefully those don't impact the 80175. After some time wasting my time to fit the part I just let it go and fit it as I could, not trying to reach the near perfection on that one.
I don't have access to my car/parts right now to check- but make sure you (or they) don't have left and right reversed. When I first fit mine I remember seeing something similar- until I swapped sides. Maybe they were even marked backwards, but it was probably just me...
Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
I tried flipping them, but I think it was much worse the other way. The sheet metal diagram shows 175 on the drivers side, and the top poking out like mine does, maybe it is marked wrong, but I doubt it, I will eyeball it one last time.
edit:
I take it back, It looks like it could go either way, the fitment isn't any better but at least the flap isn't sticking out. now I need to decide whether to keep it the way I have it, switch it and deal with extra holes, or order a new piece from FFR
I would love to see this piece on few other builds if anyone could post a pic of theirs I would appreciate it.
Attachment 51841Attachment 51842
I'm still pretty sure the ffr sheet metal diagram shows 175 on the drivers side. I'm guessing that's wrong.
Mine fit best like your second try- on the inside of the frame with the top bend facing inward. The long bends should match the tubes better too. But... I see that your left side forward panel has an (unused) notch that mine does not. There are more than a couple parts that seem to have evolved (or could use some "review" of) their design & fit.
yeah they fixed a few of the panels that had unnecessary cutouts. can you post a pic of your 80175 when you have a few minutes?
When I couldn't get all the rivets I wanted in I just used clamps in those areas. Drill and clecko, pull apart, clean, add silicone, reattach with a couple cleckos, rivet and clamp until the silicone sets, you shouldn't have any problems
+1. That's roughly my method. I'm also not opposed to drilling and riveting at a slight angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by RM1SepEx
Agreed, for most of the rivets on that piece I just drilled through the square tube from the other side through my existing holes. I tested where I could get the rivet gun in first.
Well I finally finished routing my brake and clutch line all the way to the back of the car. I wanted to try something a little different for a cleaner look. I regret now not running the front brakes behind the firewall but I can always adjust that later.
The clutch line does a 180, goes through a grommet. another 90 towards the center of the car, another 90 down the left side of the center bar and down the tunnel.
The rear brake line does a quick 90, through a grommet. follows the pedal box to clear the clutch and throttle down the right side of the center bar and down the tunnel.
I only made one bonehead move and flared the line without putting the fitting back on. Very happy with how it came out, much cleaner up front.
Attachment 52353Attachment 52354Attachment 52355
I also test fit the eye bolts for the harness, I am very happy how I ran the sheet metal over the bracket and now everything is clamped together. Just need to get a measurement from OG racing to make sure I have the width I need.
Attachment 52356Attachment 52357
Mocked up my front brakes and started figuring out my rear brake bracket.
looks like I need 24" brake lines on the front or maybe 22's if they have a 90 on one side.
Attachment 52352
Next I have to chop up my beautiful backing plates so I can get them off the knuckles, Its either that or take apart my rear suspension AGAIN and have the bearings pressed out. Not sure yet.
Here's a few shots of the rear brake lines. I ran out of 3/16 so need to pick up another 4' feet for the right side but almost done.
Attachment 52635Attachment 52636Attachment 52637Attachment 52638Attachment 52639Attachment 52640
Chad's suggested countersunk washers really cleaned up the top radiator mounts.
some 2" countersunk screws and an 1-1/4 aluminum spacer and the cooling system is done. Just need some flame retardant foam to fill the gaps.
Attachment 52718
Foam? Which gaps are you filling?
there's some gaps around the aluminum on the sides top and bottom, and the radiator itself. Some people have made aluminum panels to force air through the rad but a few strips of foam should be lighter and enough to solve the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Also a word to the wise, I finally got around to installing my brake pedal clevis, tried about 4 times and couldn't figure out why the clevis wouldn't go in, finally tried it by itself and the hole was too small. the 5/16 is just not quite big enough. needs to be a 21/64 most likely. I just reamed it out a little with the drill. Would have been so much easier before it was bolted to the car. Lost some skin for this mistake.
I guess that's why the manual says " Drill a new booster push-rod mounting hole using a 5/16” drill bit. After drilling, test fit the stock push-rod
connecting pin." live and learn.
I am moving to a bigger house so I need to get my car off the buck and on wheels. I have the suspension in the street height holes for now. With no body/engine in the car what should my target ride height be? Maybe an extra half inch up front and an inch in the back?
Thanks guys.
The speings settle quite a lot. Engine, body and windshield add a lot of weight. I wouldnt worry too much about it... your suggestion sounds good.
great, I was worried about rubbing or potential issues from it being too high. I will set it 4.75 front 5.5 rear and see what it gets me.
Wayne Pressley once posted some measurements for initial positioning of spring perches. I don't recall the numbers, but they got me close. Not sure which thread they are in.
It's in the 818 Assembly Tips thread in the General section. I believe it's this part...Quote:
Originally Posted by idf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Pressley
4.75" at front? I can barely make it to 4.5, I think I have 4.3 or something. Any more and the springs get loose when jacked up.
that works I just figured since the springs are mounted, it will be easier to preload the springs without the body/engine weight hanging on them. i'd rather lower than raise later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
It rolls, surprisingly level at around 4.5" all around. Easy to pull up the driveway with my WRX. Hopefully equally as easy to get it on the trailer.
Attachment 58279Attachment 58280
with crappy 03 wheels, the rear links barely clear the tires with no rear rotors installed.
Body work sponsored by Gorilla tape.
Nice tail lights! Ebay stuff for sure. lolll
It rolls but without an engine yet?