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That's a lot of wiring at the battery terminal. I'm not sure what all you have there, but are there any options for using a distribution block at the firewall or behind the dash? The 4" tubes are also great for mounting fuses. You can maintain the correct distance from the terminal and still have everything visibly look tidy.
The power cables are:
1: roadster main fuse block/ starter
2: accessory 6 gauge to a dash distribution block
3: Edelbrock ECU power
4: Amp power, 2 AWG
5: charging attachment quick disconnect.
They all need to come directly from the terminals so I don’t have much choice. Better for clean power.
Just got back from vacation to a bunch of packages for the roadster! I received my SS tube stock from online metals for the front rubber grommets with the correct wall thickness. A full set of 1/64 HSS drill bits to help with those less common size rivnut holes. Also, a full set of cobalt 135 split points for the SS metals, letters, wire size, and 1/64" increments. I bought two welding blankets for grinding and welding around my wheels and engine to keep things safe and clean. ATF fluid for my tremec TXK for break in. Steel reinforced exhaust hangers for frame to ball valve support. Engine break in oil for the first 500 miles.
Still waiting on my Boig motorsports upper cool tube, Gas N clamps for my side pipes, and my aluminum switches for my dash. One thing I have yet to figure out is my oil capacity. I've searched a few threads on here and looked at Champs website for my oil pan. I have the CP302LTRR, road race pan for the SBF 302. The website states "Capacity: 8 quarts with filter." My dipstick has no markings so I have to mark it myself. My engine has been on the dyno by Forte so it has oil in it. Unfortunately with the engine damage during shipping, some of the oil leaked out of the engine so I don't have a starting point. I can't start the engine without the proper oil level so I can't warm it up to drain it.
So my plan is to level the car, pull the oil drain plug and let it sit for a few days to get as much out as possible, change the oil filter, and simply add 8 quarts oil, ignoring the small amount of oil in the engine plumbing and the new (unfilled) oil filter. Is this right? Is this what Champ means by 8 quarts with filter? Thanks
I forgot to mention, crank the engine for 20 seconds to fill the oil filter, let the oil settle, then permanently mark the dipstick.
I talked to Champ oil pans and they recommend simply filling to the very top of their oil fill plug after oil is circulated in the engine and filter. Once I get to a steady state I’ll mark the dipstick.
One another note, I’ve come across a few threads about the bell housing hanging below the frame rails. Mine certainly does. It’s a QuickTime steel bell housing from forte and hangs maybe 1.5” low. The oil pan is above the frame. Some recommend cutting the bellhousing but this would remove the entire bottom bolt and half the two flanking bolts. It seems like a lot to remove and it would look terrible. Should I weld a shallow skid plate in front of the bellhousing to take the hit? Do most people leave this alone? Thanks
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Most people cut it and that's what I would do. That bellhousing is extreme overkill for these cars, losing a little off the bottom isn't going to have any negative effect.
It seems like a lot to remove and it would look terrible This reminds me of the time I bought my wife a bunch of panties that were all the same color. She complained people would think she never changed her panties. What people are going to see???
I suppose if people are looking down at the undercarriage of my car I’m probably in worse shape than my bellhousing…
Finished putting the radiator on and hooking everything up. I’ve continued to work on wiring. I tried to learn how the EStopp button was wired and ended up frying the circuit board. They guy at estopp wa great and gave me a discount on a new module. Great customer service for something that I ruined. I guess I’ll stick with his button.
I received my two switch panels from Watson’s garage. I’m happy with the look although they are smaller than I anticipated. The measurements were on the website but you never really know until they arrive. They were expensive. One realization was the low amperage rating of the switches. I can only use <1A for the push buttons and maybe 3-5 A for the toggles. Looks like I need another bank of relays. I’m making an aluminum panel to mount the switches so I can install them cleanly in my dash. It also gives me some hope I can remove this panel for access or repair without removing my dash.
Below are some updated pictures.
Dakota, that engine looks great!! I did that Boig tube as well. Expensive! But sure looks good. If you haven't filled your radiator yet, try some of the Gates Powergrip clamps. I put them on the upper only but now wish I had put them on the lower as well. Great look and stellar reviews in terms of how they perform.
Pat
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Here are a few pictures of my dash switches. Spent some quality time soldering the wires into a usable system. After frying my EStopp circuit board, I was more careful with the other wires and switches. The horn didnt work because it was a ground trigger instead of a 12V+ trigger. I wanted to reuse the relay in the fuse panel so I cut the wires at the relay and switched them. I haven’t wired up my windshield wiper switch yet so that’s coming up.
My clutch woes have returned. I had a small leak at the 1/8” NPT/3AN fitting to the wilwood master cylinder. Tried Permatex sealant and more torque but it continued to leak. Since I seem to have 3 extra wilwood MCs lying around I installed a new one and used thread sealant before I filled it with DOT 3. It didn’t leak but I couldn’t get enough clutch fork movement with Forte’s slave system. I finally realized I switched a 0.81” MC with a 0.75”. The pedal was way too soft and needed a ton of throw and still came up short. I ordered and just received a 0.94” and 1” MC. I’m going to try the 0.94” to get a shorter pedal throw.
I do need guidance with one thing. I understand I need 1” to 1 1/4” rod movement at the slave/fork to disengage the clutch. I can’t go beyond 1 1/4” due to the slave cylinder limitations. I need about 1/8” play at the fork at rest. How much slave rod movement before I can turn the rear wheels in 1st gear, and how much movement before I don’t hear the clutch rubbing? Just trying to set it up right. Finally, where do I put the clutch stop so I don’t push the rod entirely out of the slave cylinder? Just a block at the back of the pedal?
I’ve decided to abandon the wood veneer dash. Im worried the finish will look bad and nothing else in my roadster will match it. I’m going with a Pecan colored vinyl leather from Kovi for the dash, under dash panel, trans tunnel, door cards and seats. I ordered some square weave dark brown carpet as well but I haven’t attempted that yet.
I finally received my hangers and hardware from Gas N. They forgot to add it to the initial order. Of course they are super pleasant to deal with, just a miss on shipping so no big deal. It arrived just in time for my drivers side header install. I secured the drivers side bung and passenger O2 sensor and dressed the wires into the engine bay.
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Question for the group. I have hooked up my ECU power to the Pro Flo 4 using the orange coil wire. I have this blue ign wire coming off my keyed switch. What is this used for? I just have it terminated and covered for now.
I'm out of town so I can't look at the rest of the wiring schematic, but my recall is that wire goes to through your clutch pedal safety switch and then to the starter solenoid for start.
Pat
Pat,
There is a second blue wire on the same terminal off the ignition key switch that indeed does that. This comes off the same terminal and I don’t know what else would need ignition power. I’m gearing up for first start soon so I was double checking obvious issues. Thanks
I didn't use the other wire (EFI crank), but I have the Sniper 2. Don't know if the Proflow uses it.
These two wires are only hot for start, so they aren't considered ignition power which is hot in the run and start position.
Pat
For me, the clutch adjustment is visual. You need to be able to see the slave cylinder move as it actuates which allows you to judge the throw of the pedal and stop placement if needed. When my slave cylinder was flush with the housing, it fully disengaged the clutch. I then set my pedal throw and turned out I didn’t need a stop. With wheels off the ground I then tested clutch engagement.
This is of course after your rod is cut to the right length and play is set correctly. I think I documented that in my build thread, but every setup will be slightly different.
Hey guys,
I had a long day at the shop yesterday and a big night. I went for a first start. Had a few issues to fix before we got there but we were able to get it done. Great milestone to achieve. I will post the video.
It did generate a few new problems so I'll have more questions here in a bid.
https://youtube.com/shorts/BgV79rnwY_k?feature=share
So on the first "attempt", we did a fuel and gauge check. The speedhut gauges don't read while cranking so we couldn't see any oil pressure. After adding 5 gal of fuel and recalibrating, everything seemed to be online. Next we tested the fuel pump. It sounded like it was pushing fuel but zero reading on the pressure regulator. We gave it a few attempts and started to trace the lines. My buddy figured out I switched the lines in the engine bay and plumbed it backwards with the pump pushing against the regulator outflow. A switch of the lines at the tank and that was fixed.
Second attempt: We had cranked the engine over without the fuel to get the oil and coolant moving, but when we attempted a start it didn't turn over. Confused us for a second but I had the clutch pushed in on the start attempt which I had not previously done. Turns out I wired the clutch safety switch to the wrong terminals. A quick change and we were in business.
Third attempt it fired right up. Loud without sidepipes of course. Oil pressure was good. Gauges worked. It was a great feeling.
Now for the new issues. My buddy tried to start it after we rechecked the fluids. When he attempted to turn the steering wheel there was some wild feedback pressure from the power steering. I had read in a thread that the low pressure out from the brake booster when "T" with the low pressure from the power steering rack can overpressure the system. Is this what I'm looking at? I managed to capture this on video.
https://youtu.be/s_TL1KJOGtk
Looks like you have the power steering lines are reversed. The top port is the return, and the bottom is the pressure line. Jeff Kliener posted a pic in this thread on post #2
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-quot-question
In another post, I can't find Jeff mentioned that if the power steering lines are connected backwards, it will cause the wheel to make a violent turn to full lock.
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I’ve been working on this under dash design for some of my switches. I used the 1/16” foam from McMaster Carr along with vinyl from Kovi fabrics. I’m pleased so far.
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I was able to install one of my switch panels once I found 3-48 size nuts. No hardware store in my area had them but I have more on order so I don’t run out.
I switched my power steering lines today. Couldn’t prevent an oily mess but that’s how it goes. I started the engine and the steering seems to work fine. The brakes are strange though. I have Fortes hydroboost system. They seem to engage fine but they don’t spring back out. I wonder if too much hydraulic pressure would do that. Im going to have to dig through the forums a bit.
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Here’s my first attempt at a 3d printed gated shifter, as well as my first attempt at a 3d printed anything! It looks like the head of a star wars droid but I’ll work on it.
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New design. I’m getting some impingement from the TKX shifter base. The throws are a little two long. If this works well I may just wrap this in vinyl rather than having someone cnc a billet part.
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I’ve been drawing on sketchup all day and I think I will simplify the gated shifter. I can create some good designs but they don’t have a good way to connect to the trans tunnel or easily take a vinyl wrap. I think I’ll make a steel cylinder cage and slip a 3d printed cylinder over the top that is wrapped in vinyl. Then I can cap it off with either a steel or aluminum gate.
If the shape doesn't lend itself to wrapping you can look at hydrodip. I recently had this dash panel for my 68 Camaro hydrodipped to look like CF. It would have been impossible to wrap.
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That's not a bad idea! My issue is everything is brushed aluminum or vinyl. I don't have a lot of black, CF, or other material in my car. Doesn't mean it can't be an accent piece. Thanks
Well,
I fried a second ESTOPP controller box today. I had it all worked out through a relay from my STSP latching switch. Came out today to test things again and it didn't work. Everything seems to be hooked up correctly, actuator still works, button and relay are firing. Must be the control box. I'm leaning towards just using two relays to create the reverse polarity system via my STSP switch. I won't have the blue safety switch wire, but how many times have you accidentally turned on your ebrake anyway?
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Hey guys,
I put the body back on the car today to check fitting. I’m making decisions based on the body’s position so I want to make sure I’m right. I read a thread about the door striker tabs being 1/8” behind the body. I took the pictures above. The body seems farther ahead on one side vs the other in this area. Nothing in the engine bay seems very square so not sure what to base this on. I have done the 5/8” rubber on the front top 3/4” tube, I have trimmed the rear trunk floor.
What do I use to center the body left and right? The shock mounts? Do I then “adjust” the outriggers to match the front body quick jack holes? Is it only the rear vertical trunk walls and rear trunk floor keeping the body rearward? Any help on this is appreciated.
With hydrodip you can do just about anything you like, colors, graphics, even pictures. Let your imagination run wild.Quote:
Originally Posted by Highplainsdakota
Man that looks great Mike. Very 'production' looking. I used to have a 67.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
Yes and Yes. Instead of banging with a dead blow, I used a ratchet strap on my outriggers to move them a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Highplainsdakota
Good thread for you: https://www.ffcars.com/threads/centering-body.644219/
I like the ratchet strap idea. I already have the radiator in and plumbed so I don't really want to be hammering those outriggers around. I guess my order would be this:
1: Body back on, without rear trunk bulb seal to check clearances and allow for movement (I have already trimmed the rear lower trunk aluminum)
2: Rotate the body correctly using front and rear shock mounts, and door strike tabs.
3: Align strike tabs 3/16-1/4" behind body (starting with equal, and shifting body front or rear form there)
3: Check correct body lift/vertical alignment with front 3/4" tube rubber bumpers (I already have 5/8" installed which seem to be close)
4: Measure / adjust outriggers left to right in order to align with holes. (I'm waiting to mill out the body for the rubber quick jack grommets until the body is aligned)
5: Trim any aluminum rear panels that are too close to the body causing deflection. Then reattach bulb seal.
I'm anxious to start working on some body fittings like roll bar, front and rear cab clearances, windshield, etc, so I'd like to close the chapter on the body alignment. Might be a week or two until I get to it.
Still working on the shifter. My local shop tig welded the SS shifter handle to my TKX attachment I milled but it was off center, so it dipped left and rose up to the right making the handle not fit the gate. I cut it off, and had him reweld it so it was more centered. Hopefully I have this gate pretty close to aligned so I can work on the real thing.
Lots of small tasks today. I reran my low pressure power steering so the "T" fitting fed the brakes straight into the reservoir with the PS coming in at the T. Maybe this will soften up my brakes a bit. Made a second mess of power steering fluid on my floor...
Horns are in place, passenger side vent is attached to the blower, rewired my E-brake LED light and safety switch. Cut my SS quick jack tubes to 5 1/2" and squared them. Still need to polish. I installed my front radar array under my radiator. It cannot see through any metal, but fiberglass is fine. It sits right where the oil radiator would go. I still may cover it with clear moldable plastic so it doesn't take any rock impacts. I found some 4-40 nuts at my local ACE hardware for my dash switch brackets so I can finish that part. I received my Nomex honeycomb radiator protector and have begun painting it black. Z channels are on the way from amazon. The more I consider this, I may abandon this method for a thin SS hexagonal expanded metal sheet. I'm really looking forward to my actuated front license plate and the nomex costs me 3/4" of clearance to the radiator for the license plate to flip down. I need to fabricate something up before I make a final decision.
Still waiting on relays, reverse polarity switches, and more power steering fluid...
Perhaps I missed it in an earlier post, but how are you handling the relative motion between the transmission and the transmission tunnel top. Seems like you are mounting the gate to the transmission so gate moves with transmission. Are you then going to oversize the face of the gate to cover up the transmission tunnel hole so that any relative motion between the two never exposes the hole in the transmission tunnel top? Will that motion ever create vertical displacement that might stress the gate face or tunnel top? Just wondering how you are planning to address these complexities as I started researching this path but ended up discouraged.Quote:
Originally Posted by Highplainsdakota
I fit everything with bulb seal on, especially the dash. You can always replace it if you tear it up for final body install. I didn't have to trim much of anything in regard to panels.
This is what I have settled on.
I have welded 1.5" x 1/4" bar stock steel around the top of my transmission tunnel for support. The vinyl covered transmission tunnel cover will be mounted on top of that. Some of the fixation will be from two grab handles through the T tunnel cover into the steel bars as well as the gated shifter. I had 3.5" diameter tube stock steel that had a really thick wall (maybe 1/2"?) cut into 1/4" thick rings like giant washers. I will weld two of these rings about 70mm apart using 4 small steel bars like a cage. This cage will fit over the hole in my transmission tunnel cover and bolt down to the steel bar frame.
I will 3D print a cylinder, vinyl wrap it, and slide it over the steel cage. Then I will have a stainless steel cap with the shifter gates milled into it bolted on top to the top washer. To answer your question, the gate is basically bolted to my transmission tunnel. There is some play in the transmission itself, my shifter stick is 5/16" stainless steel bar that has a small amount of flex to it, the vinyl covering on the T Tunnel cover is sandwiched between the bottom steel cage and the tunnel support steel, and I'm sure my steel cage has a bit of flex as well. All this play in the system should allow things to move enough to avoid problems.
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I was also able to get the hard top on the body for the first time this weekend. Looks great. Fabricating my roll bar to fit underneath it will be a bit of a challenge though. I'm also still looking to find someone willing to take on bodywork and paint eventually. It would be great to send the car off in 2027 after a year of driving.
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I also finished wiring the vent valve and fans. They flow pretty well and I don't think I'll mind the noise when the engine is running.
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I finished my dash. Also Cobra Herb send me my door panels and they look great. It's nice to have more of these upholstery / design issues squared away.
OK,
I'm starting to fit the side pipes just to see where I'm at. To nobody's surprise the driver's side is quite a bit closer to the front wheel than the passenger's side. I ordered four wedges from Breeze and my headers and pipes are from Georgie at Gas'N.
When I tilt the ball connector so the edge of the flange is 6 1/4" from the back of the front tire on each side, I can use 4 wedges to get the connection square again. It's an equal amount of tilt for each side, just the opposite direction. This should leave the pipes at the same offset as well. Is this a reasonable idea? I don't mind the body opening for the side pipes to be a little larger as my paint color will be dark green. I took some pictures of the tilt on each side. As they sit, they are pretty equal with 4 wedges each.
Also, I've only found 4 into 4 gaskets for these wedges, but I was thinking about just using gasket maker once I final assemble them. I was going to apply a liberal coating of gasket maker on the ball connectors as well once I put the side pipes on the last time.
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