Next up is to start my body mods like the louvers, front chin spoiler and Herculiner on the inside of the body
Next up is to start my body mods like the louvers, front chin spoiler and Herculiner on the inside of the body
This is a great mod. I have the I.e.427 turn signal as well as the nrg. I haven’t figured out how to do the modification yet as I haven’t even really looked at it. Do you have any more details on what you did?
Great looking ride…
We make a billet hub for the NRG SRK-400 and another for the Motion Raceworks 15-270. They can be purchased when ordering the turn signal switch or after as an upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by danmas
Frank
Definitely would have went for this if I had known I was going with a quick release earlier.Quote:
Originally Posted by i.e.427
That’s all looking really sharp. The ascetics are on point.
Finishing up the carpet in the back before I start on the body. As with the last build and following Paul's lead from many years ago, I think finishing off the trunk upper area with custom metal, insulation and carpet makes it complete and also seals the area a little more. Came out nicely.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Following Blitzboy's lead, I bought one of these fiberglass spoilers from Backdraft. Interesting piece as the fitment to the FFR body is great, but then not so great. If you push the spoiler up as far as it will go, it aligns with the curves of the front end very well but is about 1/2" too high above the oil cooler opening lip. it could be trimmed, but not sure yet. I think it looks better aligned with that opening and therefore sitting a little lower on the front end but also will give up that much in clearance, so have to do some additional measurements.
Based on the pics, I think they may have changed the center of the chin spoiler design based on what I'm seeing in Jessie's thread as there is no lip that goes into the oil cooler opening. I haven't cut anything yet, just aligning the initial position, but am thinking this looks to be the best position. I'd like to have it removable if necessary as well. I'm not sure if Backdraft makes theirs removable or not. If anyone has any suggestions or seeing something I'm not, feel free.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
I don't think it's any different. Here is a picture of mine before I started modifying it (or just after I started to but remember to stop and take a picture). I removed where I had the silver lines. That created a better fit for the lip on the lower oil cooler that I ultimately removed. One of the bigger differences between the BD and FFR bodies is the oil cooler. Ultimately its up to the end user but I felt it worked best by removing material around the cooler to sort of create a wrap around.
This picture is a little deceiving. The hood scoop is sitting on the hood just behind it giving the impression of material being on the spoiler that actually isn't there.
No matter what it will require both trimming and adding of at least some material either fiberglass or filler.... or both
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1745700985
In my first fitment, I see where you have the lines and I was thinking of cutting in that same area. If you push the spoiler up as far as it will go, the contours align really well, but as you stated, it's just the spoiler lip sits too high on the oil cooler opening by about 1/2". I'm going to find out tomorrow how that would look if it was trimmed down. What area did you add back in with fiberglass/filler? You referring to the imperfections on the mold?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzboy54
Ironically, Backdraft is out of these chin spoilers again. Popular piece.:cool:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
I haven't yet. There is a gap between the bottom of oil cooler and where I trimmed the spoiler. I asked how best to fill it in and Jeff mercifully told me to sit this one out and he would deal with it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1745779891
In my opinion this gave me the best fit despite the gap. When done I see it mating right up to the cooler. You can see up close it will need some filling and sanding generally
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1745779891
But for a rough fit I think it looks right.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1749925663
I see. So if that area is glassed over and smoothed out at the bottom of the oil cooler hole, then you want to make yours permanent? Wouldn't you need to do the entire thing at that point? I was thinking of getting a larger piece of rubber and cutting it out to the shape of the spoiler and making it removable. More to do tomorrow.
It will still be “removable” (would just close the gaps). I don’t see how you can legitimately protect the paint underneath from wear. So by removable I mean potentially if I have to take it off in order to get on a tow truck or something. If I tried to make it optional I think there would be unavailable paint damage under it. Probably just little scuffs but it would still be there even with gasket material which I may explore using too. Curious what you come up with
I traded some messages with Erik, when he did his he made it permanent. For now this makes the most sense to me.
I’m thinking a rubber gasket and maybe clear PPF would protect it once fit properly. We’ll see.
Still fooling around with the front spoiler, but wanted to take it for a spin today and it ran glorious, even in this oven baked heat wave that we've got going on. But since I have all of my cockpit carpeting in, I wanted to protect it from heel abuse. I won't have a floor mat on the driver's side, but as with my last build, I replaced it with a 1/4" thick section of aluminum diamond plate, cut to fit the area. It not only looks great, but gives me better clutch action as my heel slides versus fighting the carpet or a mat. Unless you have the mat secured to the floor it can bunch up and cause a safety issue.
Dog eared it at the top left to follow the tube and cut to size. Sawzall and metal sanding disc made easy work of it. Looks great and doesn't move at all.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Tied up some detail work in the cockpit with a very cool red/carbon Momo horn that fits tightly into the hole once you break off two of the 4 plastic claws. thought I might need some silicone but no. I also scored a very cool Roush logo to finish off the theme.
I didn't get a whole lot of debris in the car this time so I must have sealed her up right. ;)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Just waiting on my tunnel top from the upholstery people, then I can tie that up and hook up my e-brake for the final time. Unfortunately, the tunnel fabric that I received from Intatrim wasn't wide enough to cover the top by about .75" on one side and 1.25" on the other, so had to reach back out and see if they will send me another piece cut to fit.
Looking Great Chad... I'm lurking around...
I do love that black and red motif Chad.
This is what I did.... I really like it because, as you say, it is easy on the eyes in the dark...Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
Attachment 217138
Similar for us.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Attachment 217168
Well, starting to button up everything to get the body back on for the last time. My tunnel top cover is going to take 2-4 weeks to produce according to Intatrim. Could be worse but they cut the fabric short on both ends and state that is the measurements from their template. Wonder if they could have cut it from an MKV template? Anyhow, hope they get that worked out for future orders, but won't delay me for paint. Sometimes it's a challenge when you deal with suppliers overseas. It will be worth it though.
Finally got all of my carpet done. I had the X pieces at the door frames bound to look finished. I also did not fold over my carpet when doing the drop trunk so I had those pieces bound as well. Actually looks cool. I also put carpeting over my fuel pump and sender covers as they will get scratched up over time if left bare.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Found a cool circle cutting tool set at Harbor Freight. Cut right through the carpet for a perfect circle for the screw holes without having to use a box cutter or screwdriver.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
H3R fire extinguisher mount was next. This H3R unit not only matches the blacked out theme but came with a very cool bracket that fit perfectly. A couple of 10-32 Rivnuts and I'm in business. By the way, these WetSound speakers are crazy loud for mids and highs. I had them only turned up half way and I could easily hear the music over the pipes at 30-40mph. Now just have to make sure I am not blasting at stop lights. :p
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I've been also working on getting the holes drilled for my roll bar. Finally got the stretch correct on those bars and doesn't take much to get it aligned and installed. Love that Breeze rollbar. Perfect height, thickness and the raked look is awesome! Can't decide whether to get it powder coated before I fit it on the car or afterwards. I did it before last time and just taped it up during fitting to avoid scratching the PC. Might do the same.
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Got my trunk struts almost installed. I'm probably going to face both of them inboard of the roll bar mounts as I have roughly shown in the picture. Based on a post I saw from Jeff, the angle shouldn't impact the operation.
I'm also going to get a cover of some kind for my amp to make it all look clean and and inconspicuous.
Last thing on the punch list before body install is to undercoat the body, fit my louvers as soon as they get back from powdercoat, and install the seat belt bezels. I'll wait until the body is back on for the lighting so that I get my wiring lengths correct. Good times!
Finally at the stage where I can start talking through color. I plan to be done building for paint by the end of Sept at the very latest. I've already slated November for my paint date with Mike at Spotlight Customs. So let's look at the paint option that are up for consideration.
So first, we have option #1. I know black is hard to keep clean but it looks so sinister. Deep black with Race Red stripes.
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Here's a different version with red pinstripes. Need the red in some way to pick up the gauges and belts in the car. Minus the meatball. Although, that meatball looks really cool....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Now here is a Race Red with Grigio Lynx Metallic stripes with black outline.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
And one of my favorite contenders, the Race Red with Magnetic Grey stripes and black pin stripes. That front spoiler is SICK!!!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Then there is the Designo Selenite Gray with Race Red stripes and jet black pin and center stripes:
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
And the inspiration for my wheels, Justin Schulz's car ....solid color Magnetic Grey
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
I love the black and red. So cool. However. Justin’s car was my inspiration and my muse (in terms of color). Then Jesse started flinging colors around all willy nilly and sent me in a different direction. Regardless, they all look fantastic and I’m sure you will crush it. Lot of words to say I’m absolutely no help…
Hey Chad! Hard to go wrong with black with red stripes. The red with grays look a whole lot like what I did for George Ligon and Carl Emery. Be sure you look at an actual spray out of race red…it goes a little pink/orange when compared to some others. A few thoughts on the satin black/gloss black stripe combo. You may know that I did my old Mk3 in a satin/matte black with gloss stripes—-Originally it was just going to be temporary with my plan being to tear it down after the first driving season, touch up the bodywork and give it "real" paint but that never happened due to being too busy doing cars for others to allow time for my own and it was still wearing the same when I sold it 16 years later!—-Cautions, some of which Mike may concur with. It’s kind of a PIA for the painter since he will not be able to easily correct any flaws in the matte or satin finish after spraying it. If you attempt to sand out any dirt or dust or take out a run or sag that area have a different sheen and will show unlike with a conventional gloss finish where you can make your correction and polish. The only way to make a correction is to fix it and then respray the whole works (while hoping that it comes out perfect this time!). When done it’s not really easy to live with and keep looking good. The satin/matte shows fingerprints, sweat stains from your arm on the door top, splatters from road grime, etc. as well as water spots. At first it might seem that finish would be easy to care for but in reality the opposite is the reality. It's not as simple as just giving a swipe with detail spray like is the case with a gloss finish. I got tired of it real quickly, but that's me. Don't think I'm trying to discourage you, just trying to make you aware of the reality of what it takes to both do it as well as live with it.
Cheers!
Jeff
When it comes to color schemes Backdraft just gets it.
Great feedback. Thanks Jeff! I have seen that Matte black on a Charger before and didn’t look like it was holding up very well for the reasons you outlined. I suppose a PPF wrap could help, but I’m putting that on the back burner. Carl and I chose that Carmine Red before as you say, the Race Red looked great in the daylight but kind of orangey at night. Looks phenomenal in bright sunlight though. That Magnetic grey with red accents looks so good too. Decisions Decisions! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
I am steeling that diamond plate in the cockpit idea. thank you
Me too...but not exactly. It inspired me to think in that direction, but I wound up going with a diamond plate rubber floor mat instead of aluminum and am loving it. Feel free to check out the link to my build thread below for the rubber variation on the diamond plate theme.Quote:
Originally Posted by chmhasy
I'm drooling over that magnetic grey with no stripe or scoop. I'm going the no stripe or scoop direction anyway, so I'm partial to it but love the dark grey/black trim combo.
thank you I do like the rubber easier to cutQuote:
Originally Posted by JMD
I like Chad's idea of using diamond plate in the driver's footwell...
Like JDM, I am going to try the same with a rubber mat...my carpet has taken a beating an bunches up on entry/exit..
Thanks!
.c
.
For those following along:
This is the link for the rubber mat
I think I’m going to try a bit thicker rubber mat. I have some excess gym mat tiles for my work out room that will cut down nicely. Will share if it works…
The rubber looks good too. My only concern would be the friction. The reason I looked at the plate was to give my heel a surface to slide on for the clutch. I’m not sure if the rubber would hang up on the sole of your shoe or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by danmas
Still undecided on the color. I think I'll either decide between the Race Red with Magnetic Grey stripes and black pins or the Magnetic grey with race red stripes and black pins. Well, still have a little while to decide. So in the mean time, I keep working. I did speak to Mike at Spotlight Customs and he's going to handle the front air splitter for me, so I'll take that off my plate for now.
Started on my louvers. I wanted to be sure that I get them level this time, as last time I was off 3/16" on one side and once you see it, well you know the rest. The holes this time from FFR were somewhat better but need some work. The driver's side is about 1/2" too short in the width department but the passenger side looked pretty good. Level is the name of the game and I think I've got it right where I want it before I start to carve away. My tape marks 7-1/4" in width top to bottom and roughly 4-3/4" in height, left to right. I might be 1/16" off on the height, but I'm good to go. Angles on each side are relatively the same as well as the distance from the door frame. I'll be using sheets of sandpaper for the final details as well as my Dremel and drum sander for the larger pieces. I'll also update this post once they are adhered.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Louvers were powder coated gloss black and I set them up with brackets, lock washers and metal studs. I cut about 30% off of the metal studs so that they remained hidden. I also used a nut on each stud to set the louver away from the body while the HSRF dries. As an FYI, I had drilled my louvers a little too close to the opening where you could see some of the screws. That would bother me until the end of time so ordered another set from **********, as everyone else was out, and they came in less than a week. I know, I know...just sayin.' :D
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Here's a link to the McMaster studs: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/3638/97590A567
I saw this skid plate done by Magic Marto and thought it was a great idea. My trans clears the 4" tube by about 3/16", so thought I'd pick up one of these to protect that oil pan! It arrived a few weeks ago and is of very high quality. I'm thinking maybe 3/16" thick aluminum with a nice design. When working by yourself it took a little time for placement and tapping the screws, as I had to keep going back and forth with little room to work. Ensure that you are not interfering with your oil drain plugs and the rest is pretty much straight forward.
The kit includes everything you need, drill bit, 10-32 tap and templates. Here in the pics I have it loosely screwed in as it was removed shortly thereafter to get powder coated gloss black. Another one of those, "no one will see it but me" deals. :cool:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds
Pro tip for Amazon Prime members: adhesive ready studs may be cheaper and faster here.
I'd say so. And you get a wing nut to boot! Nice find!Quote:
Originally Posted by Its Bruce
Chad,
Did you cut those louver holes yet or just measure and mark? If the latter you need to be aware that the angle that FFR cuts does not match the angle of the fabricated louvers so you might want to revisit your layout before cutting.
Jeff
Hey Jeff. I haven't cut anything yet. I measured the angle at roughly 13 to 13.5 degrees on both sides. Does that sound in the ballpark? The template doesn't really help much there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
I made a template 8-10 years ago and been using it ever since for the upgraded louvers. Just checked and the angle is 19.5-20 degrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1532359532
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1709000253
I'm sending you a PM.
Jeff
Wow, it's way off. Thanks for the help!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner