Super! Well, I'll give it a go, and if it's no bueno, I'll buy something else. I've been googling, and it does appear their quality has gone way down. I had no idea...thought they were still great batteries.
Greg
Used to be but over the past decade that isn’t the case. Hit and Miss at best. My experience has been all misses…over the last 6 or 7 years I’ve probably had a dozen cars come through here with Optimas and EVERY ONE would be dead if they sat anywhere from 5 days to 2 weeks. I now tell customers if you’re bringing me a car with an Optima battery make sure to bring me the charger too.
Jeff
Had a great morning in the shop today. I got my battery installed and clamped down. It was time to throw the main battery switch, and test all my wiring. I was a bit nervous. Fortunately, everything worked! Fuel pump cycled, horn works, turn signals work, headlights, brake lights, parking lights, hi-beams, hazards...all of it. The only thing I had to do was rotate my turn signal toggle on the dash, as right was left and left was right. Loosened up the bezel nut, rotated it 180 degrees, and tightened it back down. Success!!! I've ordered weatherpack connectors for the lighting, and my trusty Amazon peeps are bringing them to me tomorrow. I'll get those installed tomorrow.
Also primed the oil system, and verified oil at all rockers. Buttoned up the valve covers, checked for leaks (none, thankfully), and called it done!
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And one other small project. I removed the standard e-brake on the passenger side of the tranny tunnel, since I'm going to use the Wilwood electric park brake. Patched the tranny tunnel, and recarpeted.
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Getting all the electrical circuits is in my opinion the single most satisfying milestone after first start. Looking really good
Great milestone! No matter how often we do major wiring, untill you "throw the switch" there is all sorts of demons in our heads. Best of all outcomes is no giant blue flash with accompaning billows of smoke calling forth the genie laughing at you for having the moxie to think you could do it! HA! Begone genie! Well done!
It's been awhile since I updated my build thread...been waiting on parts for some time, but they are on their way! Mr. Gordon Levy hooked me up with a nice accessory drive setup (alternator, bracket, PS pump, reservoir and cooler, etc), and the Wilwood electric park brake setup. Looking forward to getting the park brake installed, and I'm glad I removed the kit-supplied park brake setup and patched the side of the trans tunnel. I hated it from day one, and don't know why I wasted my time installing it.
While I've been waiting on parts, I got the itch for a project, so I bought an LED light bar on Amazon for my UTV...I don't know how I'm going to survive when this car is complete and I don't have endless weekend projects! Hummm...that Coupe-R looks pretty nice...
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Anyway, I'm looking forward to getting back after it, and hope to have a first start post in the near future!
Oh, and lest I forget...GO CHIEFS!!!!
Greg
That should put out some light Greg!!
Ha! I had the same "I need something to do" issues while waiting 10 months for my Coupe during covid. I outfitted my entire shop, and built a race trailer from a basic cargo trailer, replaced the entire front end on my Dodge 2500, and lots of other things..... I don't think I've gotten that much work done since!!
Waiting for parts makes me itchy! Might explain why I'm anxious about the motor and other parts I'm still waiting on for my Roadster too!
You'll be back on the path soon..... This is the way
Rian
Rian
Hi Greg, let me know if Infinitybox might be of help to make your build easier! Good luck and enjoy the process.
www.infinitybox.com
I can't wait to hear that beautiful engine come to life !
Had a quality morning in the shop today. I received my accessory drive bits from Gordon Levy yesterday (Thanks Gordon!). Quality stuff for sure. I installed the PS cooler on the front x-brace with 1/4-20 button heads, drilled and tapped, and then installed the PS reservoir on the driver's side F-panel. Then installed the Jones Racing PS pump (really nice piece), and the alternator and tension bracket. Finally, I installed the water pump and crank pulleys that came with the kit, after removing the pulleys I had already purchased. The water pump pulley is the same March unit I bought, and the crank pulley Gordon sent is a smaller diameter than the March pulley I had on there, so I swapped it. If anyone needs a polished March water pump and crank pulley, let me know. March part #'s MCH-2008 and MCH-2012. I'll make you a smokin' deal. (Smokin' deal CLAIMED) :)
Anyway, fun morning. Now I have to figure out how to plumb the PS system. I believe the cooler should be inline 'after' the PS rack and before the reservoir, but I'm unsure which fitting is which on the rack...the red and blue-capped fittings. I'll have to research. But the path of PS fluid flow (I think) is PS pump-->PS Rack-->Cooler-->Reservoir-->PS Pump. Experts, please check my thoughts on this one. This is new to me. My MkIII was manual steering.
Have a great weekend, everyone! And GO CHIEFS!!!! (I realize that's an unpopular sentiment these days).
Greg
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Which remote PS reservoir are you planning to use? I'm in that dilemma now as I tried the Holley version that Mike and others used, but it seems too close to the pump on the front fitting for me. May be challenging to use a bottom feed as it comes a little close to the brake lines as many of those reservoirs are 8+ inches tall. PSC has a nice one with rotating side mounts but $300 is a little crazy. For the money of those reservoirs, I thought about just getting another pump with integrated reservoir, but its too wide and will interfere with the steering shaft.
Ugh...Might revisit the Holley one and look at some different fittings.
Greg,
The lower port on the rack is high pressure from the pump and the upper is return. Yes, the cooler goes in the return between the rack and reservoir. Curious what cooler that is.
Jeff
Thanks, as always, Jeff. Your response clears up my plumbing questions. I'm not sure what brand or model the cooler is...Gordon sent it to me along with the other bits, as a package deal. The cooler wasn't in a manufacturer's box and didn't have any identifying marks on it. It was just boxed up with the other parts by Gordon.
Greg
Finished up plumbing my power steering system. Also got the correct length serpentine belt installed. I ended up with a 59.5" belt. Good day in the shop. Cold and blustery this weekend, with snow on the way tonight and early next week. Very frigid temps next week, with lows to -15 and wind chills to -30, then 50s and low 60s next week. Gotta love winter in the midwest. Stay warm, everyone!
Greg
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After a brutally-cold week, 12 degrees felt warm this morning in KC. Warm temps ahead!!!
Spent the morning finishing up my accessory drive components that Gordon Levy hooked me up with. I didn't like the routing of my PS return line from the PS reservoir, so I made some adjustments, then filled and primed the PS system. I spun the PS pump with the serpentine belt removed, using a 1/4 hex socket a drill to confirm I had no leaks and that fluid would circulate properly. I did this after priming the system by raising the front tires off the dollies, and turning the steering lock to lock probably 15 times until the reservoir level stayed constant. Took about 40 ounces of Honda PS fluid to fill the system. I then reinstalled my 59.5" serpentine belt and bolted up my Canton water neck sans gasket, and only used RTV, per some of the recommendations here on the forum. Next up...cooling system plumbing.
Have a great weekend, everyone!
Greg
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Move the adjuster for the alt one hole to the pass side of the pump and then take the slack out of the adjuster. Move the PS pump in, reinstall the belt and pull the PS pump tight then adjust the alt adjuster for final tightness. That will get the alt off the water neck.
I was just wondering how you were going to get a hose & clamp on that bypass fitting. Now I know lol
Alright, I made the change. If I want to route the belt the way I had it, I'll need a slightly longer belt. Or, I can run it this way, but the PS pump is as far to the driver's side as it can go, and I don't have much adjustment left on the turn buckle. I'll probably get a longer belt and route it the way I had it. All good.
Greg
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Greg,
You may find that winds up a little shy on crankshaft belt wrap. Looks like it's only about 90 degrees of contact.
Jeff
Had a nice morning in the shop today and got my Canton 2qt expansion tank installed. Seems like a nice product, as is most of Canton's stuff, and I like the visual indicator of fluid level. That's all I have to install this weekend, sadly. Waiting on several parts to come in this week, hopefully:
*Wilwood Electric Park Brake setup from Gordon Levy (If anyone wants my Wilwood standard emergency brake calipers (in black), let me know. I'll make you a smokin' deal.)
*Breeze Front LED Light Kit #70805
*Breeze Lower Hose and Tube Kit #70783
*Breeze Lower Radiator Hose Bracket #70785
*Breeze Bypass Hose Kit #70502
*Breeze Coolant Fill Tee Kit with Cap #70586
Once the Breeze bits get here, I should be able to button up my coolant system, and move on to exhaust gaskets and studs. Keeping with the ARP fastener theme throughout the engine build, I found the ARP exhaust manifold stud kit I need...400-1404 sheesh...$173!!! Oh well, gotta do it. If anyone has a recommendation for the 'spare no expense' exhaust manifold gaskets, I'd appreciate it. After exhaust is spark plug wires, then I think I'm ready to fire up the ProFlo ECU and load a base tune, then go for first start up. Getting close...
Oh, and I have to take my passsenger rear wheel/tire back to my tire shop to get it rebalanced. I found the wheel weights sitting on my suspension a few weeks ago. The car has sat on dollies for so long, the weights fell off. They were at the 12 o-clock position, and left absolutely no trace of where they were affixed to the wheel. Sigh...
Have a great weekend, everyone! Spring is near!!!
Greg
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Looking good!
I have the ARP exhaust header studs and love them. For gaskets might as well go with the best, Remflex. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-3083
Remflex make gaskets for the collectors also. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-8023
I used Power Grip hose clamps on my radiator and bypass hoses, these things are really sweet and look better than any mechanical clamps. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all30257
Thanks, Mike. I'll get all of that ordered. I really like those Power Grip Hose clamps. I guess they're single use, so if I ever needed to remove my radiator hoses, I'd need new Power Grips. That's okay, though. Cheap enough, and they look so much better than traditional clamps. Thanks, as always, for steering me in the right direction, Mike!
Greg
You might consider putting a strip of colored duct tape over your stick on wheel weights.
It's required for road racing motorcycling.
its a little bit of insurance, once the wheel gets some heat in it the tape will stick well.
I've never had a taped one come loose, only on a street bike when I didn't tape them.
Yeah Greg, they're single use. They make a tool for cutting them off but I didn't have much luck with it so I resorted to a box cutter. Like you said they're cheap enough.
https://www.imagecoast.com/images/Mi...1215173841.jpg
I've never had one come off, either. KC Trends balanced them. But then again, I've never had new wheels and tires balanced, then let them sit for months with gravity working against the weights. I'm sure it'll be fine when rebalanced. By then, I'll be ready to drive it.
Hey Greg,
That Canton tank fits really nice! I was considering getting one, and wondered about installing it on the F-panel...
Any concerns about the "arch" in the panel after tightening it down with the tabs? Did you bend the tabs a little to fit to the contours?
Craig C
Thanks Greg :)
Craig C