Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

Hey Y'All,

I wanted to install all of the rest of the cockpit panels (except the large rear panel), but ran into typical planning issues: I am running out of my favorite multi-grip rivets and I haven't ordered my soundproofing / thermal insulation mats yet...

Here's how far I got: Driver's outer panels. :rolleyes: Anyway, here's some pictures Attachment 206295 Attachment 206296 Attachment 206297

Not wanting to just leave it at that, I decided to finish the installation of my charcoal canister and breathers. I like how it turned out ;)

view looking toward front of vehicle Attachment 206298, view from above ... looking down Attachment 206299

Next, I installed my rear brake hardline and brackets to the main frame tubes. I used some black gasket maker to keep the corrosion at bay underneath the brackets (and to hold into place if I need to adjust the lines a little). I had a picture, but the image quality was bad...

Next, I wanted to install the rest of the Driver's footbox panels, then realized that some builder's wished they had added the Cool-Mat before inastalling the inner panels. I checked and decided to heed the advice. Not much room to get insulating mats in there Attachment 206300 so I'll pre-fit the insulation before final installing that panel ... which means I'll be waiting on the next Summit delivery this week :p

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Not too much progress this past weekend due to running other errands and taking care of Fall chores, but I did manage to "final" install the Passenger-side outer cockpit panels. While I was at it, I "semi-final" installed the fuel hardlines (I still need to install the decorative anti-scuff shim between the fuel lines and the Passenger-side floor panel).

Here's the pictures: Attachment 206539 Attachment 206540 Attachment 206541

I also painted 250 of my favorite-style rivets rattle-can chassis-black since Summit only has bare metal choices left :( No pictures 'cause that's kinda boring, but I just poked holes in some spare cardboard in a matrix pattern and painted top and bottom. Some of you may be thinking that this was a waste of time...perhaps, but one of my goals is to have Angelina look just as dazzling without her pretty red dress on :p

Next time, I think I'll try some wire harness customization...:cool:

Happy Building!

Craig C

While those rivets look nice, I can't imagine rationalizing painting something that will be totally covered by, say, carpet. But, if it makes you feel better about your project, I suppose it's worth it.

Thanks for following my build :)

It is certainly proceeding slower than planned due to my OCD about trivial details :D

Sometimes getting focused on very small things actually helps me to see the big picture -- as crazy as that sounds!

Craig C

I do like the rivets. Hidden or not. I'm thinking a dark grey metallic with some black rivets for the visible panels will look nice. Thanks for sharing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gbranham

While those rivets look nice, I can't imagine rationalizing painting something that will be totally covered by, say, carpet. But, if it makes you feel better about your project, I suppose it's worth it.

---

Kinda' like my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished every single interior and trunk panel then covered them with carpet! I think mostly it gave him something to do while he was in the garage drinking beer :D

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Kinda' like my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished every single interior and trunk panel then covered them with carpet! I think mostly it gave him something to do while he was in the garage drinking beer :D

Jeff

---

Yep, very much the same. Although I did powdercoat every aluminum panel on my car...only to cover most of it in carpet.

Hey Y'All,

I hope you had a nice Thanksgiving :)

I spent part of my time getting the trunk area prepped for the final panel install...

First, I double-checked that my harness with new split loom from WireCare would still fit where the drop trunk goes. I'm glad I checked! the Heavy-Duty split loom that I wanted to use added just a little bit more overall thickness than I had originally planned for. No worries, I just drilled for a new location for that wire clamp and now I have an extra screw location (if I ever needed it) :rolleyes: Here's the result Attachment 207001

Next, I made a mini-harness for the taillight converter in case I ever decide (or can't get parts for the standard rectangular taillights) and have to resort to the double bullet-style. My intention was to run all the standard wires in the rear harness (even if they don't get used now) and have the option for the converter "delete". I used "flat" split loom and this was my 1st attempt at making WeatherPack connectors...Attachment 207002 and here it is installed along the normal loom with zip-ties Attachment 207003

Next, I finally decided to "mount" the parking brake cables "somewhere", and decided on magnetic mounts from MagDaddy. I affixed to the top of the differential case. I'm not sure if the installation will help to isolate the steel shavings anymore that the typical drain plug, but I figured it couldn't hurt...Attachment 207008

I liked how my 1st harness "redesign" came out. I used cloth harness tape to isolate each breakout and then for those critical areas, I also wrapped with self-sticking silicone tape. I ended up relocating the license-plate light wiring a good 10" from stock and created a break-out connector for the previously-mentioned taillight converter. I made a couple of mistakes and had to splice a mistakenly-cut wire and decided to double-up some wires, too, just as was done originally in some of the connectors. Here's a final look Attachment 207009

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

More catching up was done to get my trunk and driver's side inside footbox panels ready...

First up: I decided to re-do my front brake hardline to have a better appearance and because I just wasn't sure if the prior attempt had issues with the AN flare...

Attachment 207127 and a side view Attachment 207128

Happy with that result, I pre-assembled my drop-trunk panels: Attachment 207129 here's a close-up of properly formed multi-grip rivets. I think the key is to use a #30 drill bit instead of a simple 1/8". It allows the rivet to deform properly like a stack :) Attachment 207130

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I finally got the details done to "final" install the Driver's side front footbox panel. It meant I needed to pre-fit some thermal padding and confirm the rear brake hardlines were properly fastened (snugged up w/anti-seize on the junction threads and with threadlocker for the mounting pads).

Here's pre-assembly of the top and bottom inner footbox panels Attachment 207131

Then pre-fitment of the thermal pad, including punched rivet hole relief, pre-bent and pre-indented for no interference with the standard AccPed bracket Attachment 207132 then attached with the self-adhesive backing Attachment 207133

Here's the result Attachment 207134 and "road gravel" view of rear brake hardline bulkhead connection Attachment 207135

I'm happy with the results :)

Craig C

Really nice looking work.

Thanks Dan!

I appreciate the feedback :)

Hey Y'All,

I managed to tighten my fuel lines at the junction of the flex lines running to/from the tank and filter to the hardlines running up the Passenger side, and then loctited the hardline mounting blocks to the frame for the final install under the car. This meant that I was (for the most part) finished with the details under the trunk area (until I get the tank mounted...

This meant that I could "button up" the forward trunk floor panel finally :)

Here's some pictures: Top side Attachment 207571 and under side Attachment 207572 Attachment 207573 Attachment 207574

I'm happy with the results :cool:

Next time I'm under there, I'll be installing the drop trunk box, the lower rear trunk panel, and the fuel tank...

Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

In my zeal to catch-up to get the cockpit panels installed, I realized that I skipped a step ...

I wanted to add some in-tunnel thermal pads after all. I wish I made up my mind before I installed those panels :rolleyes:

Oh well...in order to properly apply the stick-on pads, I realized that I need to install that very small Driver's side access panel. I measured the distance to the drivetrain that has not been mounted yet, and I didn't see a reason to keep that access panel for any maintenance, so I decided to rivet and bond in-place. I used "normal head" 1/8" rivets since the proportion seems agreeable. Here's a picture: Attachment 207575

Then I could carefully measure via paper templates how I wanted the thermal stick-on pad to be laid-out. It was still a little bit of a struggle to position and press on (kinda burnish) the pad into place...then just as challenging was to measure, locate, and place the seam tape. This was the "easy" side. I'll try the Passenger side tomorrow. Anyway, here's a picture of the result: Attachment 207576

I didn't actually use a rubber roller for this install. Instead, I actually used some plastic trim removal tools. I used the one that's kinda shaped like a putty knife. I think it worked pretty well :)

Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I got the Passenger side in-tunnel thermal pad installed and finished up the edges with the seam tape. Here's some pictures of the progress: Attachment 207754 and here's a powertrain perspective of the completed job Attachment 207755

Next post: finally catching up to p.169 of the Build Manual...

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I finally got caught up to p.169 of the Build Manual. I decided to use "normal" head 1/8" rivets along the top edge of the trans tunnel so that I'd have adequate room for the trans top panel with all the dimensional stack-up of pads/carpet (or upholstery), etc. The remaining rivets were all "large" head. Here's the pictures: Attachment 207756 Attachment 207757 Attachment 207758

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

After getting the trans tunnel panels thermally insulated, my next task was to install the remaining trunk panels for the final time :cool:

The order that I chose worked for me, but to be honest, I probably should've installed the side panels later in the sequence. Anyway, here's the inner side panels Attachment 207906 Attachment 207907

Then, I checked the rear frame rails for straightness and decided to add some shims to the rear trunk frame tubes before I installed the rear trunk panel (the reasoning will be more clear in the upcoming pictures) Attachment 207908 then installed the rear trunk panel and my "extension" bracket Attachment 207909

Finally, I installed the "RT" drop trunk Attachment 207910

Here's why I spent time with the shims: ("extension" bracket is nice and straight!) Attachment 207911

Next post: final installation of the fuel tank :cool:

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I finally installed the fuel tank today, and it feels like real progress has been made this past week :)

Minor setbacks or concerns just present problems that get to be solved -- one by one :cool:

I'm happy that I spent some thought up-front about the rear harness and fuel line routing, because I suspected that I'd need to connect things before the tank was in the final position. My solution was to simply have more length than needed and simply loop the wires/lines so that they could be connected first, then raise the tank without messing up any geometry or layout. Worked out well...

Here's some detail pictures that might help others (sending unit harness loop w/MagDaddy zip-tie mount) Attachment 207912
(fuel pump harness and flex lines w/MagDaddy zip-tie mounts) Attachment 207913 Attachment 207914 Attachment 207915

Next project: finish plumbing the brake system and bleed it...

Until next time -- Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I hope you had a Merry Christmas! I spent mine with my BroBro and it was a nice visit :)

When I got back to my garage, I really wanted to finish my brake system, but got derailed after I noticed corrosion in my Earl's flexline! Surprised me too :eek: Attachment 208264 Sure enough, the fitting itself is only zinc-coated steel...although I'm not exactly sure how it got corroded since it has never seen fluid...fortunately, the same part number was in-stock at Summit...now just have to wait for it.

In the mean-time, there's always some little job that needs doing, so I refocused: first up, install the powder-coated "bridge" bracket that keeps the main harness out-of-the-way of the steering shaft Attachment 208265

then, pre-assembled my remote reservoir bracket Attachment 208266

next, affixing more thermal pad in the front of the driver's footbox Attachment 208267

lastly, installing the unused front footbox access panel Attachment 208268

Next post: more panel installations for the trunk...

Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I completed the installation of my outside trunk panels. Recall that I modified them to permit easier body installation later (I hope) and to permit more installation flexibility for the rear wheelwell splash panels. In doing so, the installation required rivets and riv-nuts...

But 1st, I prepped for shims to keep the panels flat: DS Attachment 208587 PS Attachment 208588

Here's the layout right before final installation: DS Attachment 208589 PS Attachment 208590

Installed! Attachment 208591 Attachment 208592

Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I got my replacement Earl's "flex-line" for my front brakes that I wanted to install in the footbox :)

Recall that I chose to use "flex-line" as a way to possibly allow for an easier replacement of the master cylinders (if that were ever needed :rolleyes:), and frankly to avoid the drama of making more stainless hardlines in that tight area. I'm done with all that stress for a while!

So, here's the layout: bulkhead Attachment 208599 and a view at the master cylinders Attachment 208600

My previous planning for adding a grommet for the rear flex-line (as it passed thru the accped bracket) seemed to be all for naught, as I struggled to get my hands in the tight spaces. I remembered that windshield installers simply use a cord in the weatherstrip to pull it into place, so I tried it for my grommet and it worked great! Here's a picture Attachment 208601

Then, I used some slippery "stuff" meant for installing electrical lines in homes for the rubber reservoir lines as they passed thru my special "3-hole" grommet and that worked fine, too Attachment 208602 Attachment 208603

Chewy was right! I designed my remote reservoir bracket such that I must get the panels riveted before the final installation -- otherwise there's no room to get the tools in there...so, that means I must wait to install the remote reservoirs, and instead consider all the other jobs that must be done before adding the top cover for the footbox. With that top panel installed, I just don't have the room for my hands, and would like to avoid the frustrations :p

So...since I've recently read about throttle linkage issues, I figured I'd try a cardboard mockup, and I'm glad I did! My planned layout just doesn't leave enough room for the actuator arms inside the footbox at WOT. I'll have to figure this out some more... Attachment 208604

It's just as well...getting hit with winter weather now, and I'll need some time to think :confused:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I've been "noodling" over the footbox throttle linkage and I just didn't like how the RT "tribute" accel pedal geometry was working for me, so I decided to figure it out as best as I could. I measured the layout and the moving parts in a "free-form" diagram, and then put it on paper. Then used some geometry and Trigonometry to come up with a plan to address the many constraints in the way (limited space for full articulation, pedal orientation at idle and full-travel, and linkage geometry that might impact pedal sensitivity). Here's my thinking pad Attachment 209001

Then I cut out some aluminum stock for an experimental accelerator pedal lever arm to try out my ideas Attachment 209003

Here's some pictures for mockup: Attachment 209002 Attachment 209004 Attachment 209005

I can understand why RT designed his the way he did -- lots of compromises to adapt to. I'm still on-the-fence about my new linkage geometry at off-idle position -- I don't want it to be too sensitive at initial AccPed tip-in, but it's nice to know I have an alternative that will bolt-in when that time comes...

I'm hoping that my measurements are reasonable because the real critical factor is the space at the top of the footbox for the Forte' lever arm. I suppose I could make a different set, but they are very nice. I'll keep them for now :)

Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

One of the other customizations I had planned for my build was to emulate John Ibele's center console design -- I really liked it and was impressed by his work :cool:

I measured and cut out some construction paper today to mock one into place to visualize and think about it some more...
Attachment 209024 Attachment 209025 Attachment 209026

Granted, it's very rough: sharp creases (whereas I liked the curved side edges of John's design), angles aren't perfect, mounting flanges aren't thought thru...but I like it so far.

My intention is to design a sprung access door with a keyed push-button latch, and have enough room for garage door opener, ear plugs...maybe a power plug...and to hide some of my chassis harnesses :rolleyes:)

Until next time...Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

While my cardboard model of the throttle linkage allowed me to visualize the footbox panel clearance and layout, I wanted an extra confirmation of my work, so I cut/drilled some flat stock and some 3/8" rod to have a better representation of the finished layout.

I confirmed that the cardboard model was pretty accurate and I confirmed that the throttle pivot rod at my preferred mounting location would not get in the way of the steering shaft :)

Here's a picture Attachment 209393

Next, I needed to replace some rivets with riv-nuts (or nut-serts) where I needed front wiring harness zip-tie clamps. Here is the result Attachment 209394

Then, with the clamps in place Attachment 209395

This is just the initial layout. I still would like to re-do some of the splices because they're not where I'd prefer them...and I'll want to wrap with my preferred split loom before the final install :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I decided to add a couple of reinforcing brackets to the backside of the firewall panel for my Forte' throttle linkage kit. Granted, I wouldn't expect a lot of force on those pivot shafts, but that rod appears to be solid stainless 3/8"...not a trivial amount of mass hanging about an inch and a half from the mounting flange (large stainless fender washers).

So, I decided to reinforce the backside of the firewall panel with some simple Al angle stock 1.5x1.5x1/8"

Here's the layout (since I wanted spacing between my firewall panel offset rivets, and taking into account the overall rod length) Attachment 209396 note the 1/8" clecos to hold in place temporarily, and the front view Attachment 209397

Then to make sure the brackets didn't move around while drilling out for the fasteners, I enlarged the holes for 3/16" clecos Attachment 209398

Lastly, after drilling for final size and adding riv-nuts, here's the result Attachment 209399

The icing on the cake is a special spherical support bearing (kinda like a pillow block) that I'll use on the inner footbox panel for support and to keep that hole size small against hot air intrusion into the footbox :cool: Attachment 209400

I still would like to powder-coat the new brackets, and I still need to finish the rest of the linkage, but this was a good milestone for me :)

Happy Building!

Craig C

Coming along very nicely!

Thanks Lance! :)

Although I'll admit my pace of work is not what I had originally planned for...something about single digit temperatures does something to my motivation :rolleyes:

Hey Y'All,

My last post left off with me just showing you my spherical bearing support block mocked into place for the Forte' throttle linkage as it passes thru the Driver's side inner footbox panel.

This post shows what I did to install it :)

First up, grinding a point in some spare 3/8" rod so that I could accurately locate the center punch hole location on the panel Attachment 209626

Next, I carefully drilled the hole and tried not to have the bit "walk" on me. It actually required me to file a little to re-center the hole. Then I'd enlarge the hole and re-center as needed. At one point, I actually put a long 3/8" drill bit in the mounts just to see where I needed to fit the linkage better for a good fit. Here's the result -- this perspective looked the worst Attachment 209627

Then I wrapped some sand paper around my test rod and rotated it to size the hole properly. Next up, locating the spherical bearing support block holes Attachment 209628 and drilled Attachment 209629

Lastly a test fit. Inside view Attachment 209630 Engine compartment view Attachment 209631

I'm happy with the result :)

Next post: adding thermal padding...

Craig C

Love that spherical bearing idea. I used a rubber grommet and an brass sleeve/bearing inside the grommet.

Thanks Chewy! Your observations have kept me motivated :)

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

For this update, I'll reveal my mistakes in applying stick-on thermal pads...so you don't have to :p

First up, measure out and mark for the cut lines Attachment 209975...then realize that your template is upside-down Attachment 209976

Then stand back and admire your work Attachment 209977

Then...start to second-guess affixing heavy pads to an inverted surface and double check with the manufacturer, who says that's not recommended. Then learn that the adhesive can be regenerated with heat, and put the panel in the oven to try to remove it. Here's the raw result after a lot of effort Attachment 209978. It actually cleaned up fine with the right technique and solvents...and the powder-coated surface didn't have a mark on it :) Attachment 209979

After that debacle, try again with lighter-weight fiberglass-backed pads Attachment 209980

Don't fret about the mistakes...most can be done-over...it just takes a lot of effort that would be better spent elsewhere :)

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Yet more Driver's footbox Thermo-Tec pad installation.:( It's really tedious, unforgiving work...but the completed result will be worth it.
Here's the top-part of the inner panel Attachment 209981

Then the top outer part of the front panel Attachment 209982

And a couple of views of the inner panel thermal pad installation Attachment 209983 Attachment 209984

Here's the reason to put the effort into this right now (and a little motivation for me to finish the job).Attachment 209985 Here, I trimmed the remote hydraulic reservoir rubber hoses so that when the Driver's footbox top panel is finally riveted and bonded into place, I can get my hydraulic system plumbed and bled.:cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Not much obvious progress on my build this past week...:rolleyes:

I'm trying to stay busy by making cardboard patterns of the thermal padding that I've been installing. These will be used later (as needed) and get me to practice this skill more since I'd like to continue with me doing the rudimentary upholstery on my build. This week, I wanted to change it up a little by applying the fiberglass-backed padding onto the cockpit side panels under the door openings...so, more pattern making. It's probably not going to make a difference, but it was "in my head" when I conceived of my build, and I'm following thru :)

Here's a before picture Attachment 210300 and an after picture Attachment 210301

Next, I wanted to get a strong visual of the "competition" instrument panel. Since the space is limited, I wanted to see what sort of "wiggle room" I had with the layout. I'd rather locate the most critical parts (the instruments and operator interfaces) before locating the other things that could be moved around later (like the wire harnesses). You guessed it! More pattern making. I'm glad I did this, too. Online pictures from other builders don't show it, but they're not really what your eyes see in real life. The perspective is all wrong. Anyway, here's a picture from directly behind the vehicle's centerline Attachment 210309 and here's a representation from the Driver's position in the cockpit -- this was as close as I could get my cellphone camera to reflect what my eyes see Attachment 210310

For you builders out there -- try it out to see what actually works!

My next obsession is going to be where to locate the heater/defroster switch and cable since I don't want the cable bend to be sharp (and I'd like for it to follow the heater hose routing in the engine bay as much as possible)...

Until next time, stay motivated and keep at it!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

In the middle of my harness and Dash Panel design & layout, I realized that I really want to get the brakes bled! But in order to do that, I really need to button-up the Driver's side Top footbox panel before I can connect the hydraulic reservoirs...

You see, I designed my reservoir bracket close to the front of the Driver's side front bulkhead, and it needs to be final riveted before I can install the remote reservoir bracket. So the sequence is: make sure I can access everything I need to with only that little access panel, then rivet the top inner Driver's footbox panel, then figure out my front harness layout/design, then attach the remote reservoir brackets...

I riveted/bonded the inner top panel (picture of that in my next post):cool:

My front harness layout takes it thru the clutch cable bulkhead hole, and it needs to fit inside my remote reservoir bracket so that it is protected from the header/sidepipe heat and supported as it goes forward along the top 3/4" square frame tube. In order to fit well inside that bracket, I decided to use some spare flat ribbon cable split loom (some of which I used for the rear harness trailer unit adapter). Here's a picture of the thin-side of that loom Attachment 210507 it's about 3/8" wide.

Then, I needed to get the harness from the fusepanel area thru the bulkhead. I decided to separate the harness into 2 looms (1 for each connector). This made the whole thing bend easier in the wheelwell area (pictures of that later). Here's a couple of pictures of the 2 looms and how I'm going to bundle/support them with the hydraulic flex-lines in the top of the footbox (top view) Attachment 210508 side view Attachment 210509

Next, I prepped the top 3/4" square frame tube for mounting the loom (zip-tie brackets screwed in) Attachment 210510 and with the round split loom mounted Attachment 210511

Next post: it comes together as planned :)

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

My front harness layout/design is coming along as I had planned...

Here's what makes it for me: Attachment 210512 the remote reservoir mount doubles as support and heat shield for the wire loom :cool:

I used some good quality wire loom tape and then decided to add some silicone tape for extra heat protection as it comes out of the bulkhead grommet. This made it a little thicker than I had planned, but it all still fit pretty well the way I wanted it to.

Here's some pictures of the layout and final assembly Attachment 210513 Attachment 210514

Lastly, a picture of the inner top footbox panel and engine-bay view of the remote reservoir bracket Attachment 210515

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I spent most of my weekend bleeding the brakes ... and not a lot of progress on other stuff :(

However, despite not having any pictures to share, I did confirm that my lines are not leaking (yet), and while the idea of reverse filling the system sounds like a good idea, I didn't get it to work that well because I couldn't maintain a seal around the bleeders long enough to go over the the vacuum pump and build more vacuum.

So, the next step is to get a Motive adapter (already ordered) and finish that job :) By the way, did I say how relieved I am that my lines aren't leaking? :p

Happy Building!

Craig C

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cc2Arider

Hey Y'All,

I spent most of my weekend bleeding the brakes ... and not a lot of progress on other stuff :(

However, despite not having any pictures to share, I did confirm that my lines are not leaking (yet), and while the idea of reverse filling the system sounds like a good idea, I didn't get it to work that well because I couldn't maintain a seal around the bleeders long enough to go over the the vacuum pump and build more vacuum.

So, the next step is to get a Motive adapter (already ordered) and finish that job :) By the way, did I say how relieved I am that my lines aren't leaking? :p

Happy Building!

Craig C

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Vacuum bleeding worked really well for me with a firm pedal and all bleeding done in less that 15 minutes. Put a little thread tape on your bleed screw threads (only) to prevent air from being pulled in.

Thanks Nigel!

I tried some brake fluid-compatible grease on the bleeder threads and even only screwed out 1/4 turn, had some inconsistent sealing :confused:

I forgot to mention that I have the "big" calipers from Wilwood...not that it matter now, but someone reading this thread might try Nigel's method instead of mine...

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

After second-guessing my initial plan to fasten/mount my heater/blower unit...I took a different approach after thinking about how to get that sucker out again with the body in place :confused:

I've not been a fan of the screws that cut into the plastic, since in my experience they tend to strip out when least convenient :rolleyes:

My initial plan was to use small button head screws, but I don't think I could get an Allen wrench in there with the body on, so I changed over to small serrated, flange-head, hex screws...

This way, I can choose to mount the bottom separate from the top, or just mount the two halves together and them mount to the firewall. I chose the latter approach, but that meant getting creative with the Dremel tool and a small drum sanding attachment on the plastic motor unit reinforcement webbing.

Here's a picture of the two halves fastened together Attachment 211021

and a picture mocked onto the firewall panel Attachment 211022

I could get either a 1/4" nutdriver onto the fasteners or a small 1/4" combination wrench :)

With that settled, I started to mock the wiper motor unit into place Attachment 211023

There's not a lot of position adjustment space (even by following the heater unit locations per the Build Manual). In the next post, I need your help to confirm this location looks OK...

Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

For those who've installed a wiper motor, or who have worked on a Roadster with one installed, I need your help to check if this location looks OK. I've got several pictures with reference ruler in place: Attachment 211024Attachment 211025Attachment 211026Attachment 211027

It appears the limiting factor is how tight to locate the gear unit up under the 3/4" top engine bay frame tube...

These two pictures show the "wiggle room" that I have up-n-down (2.5" ~ 2"): Attachment 211028Attachment 211029

So, what's the verdict? In the ballpark? Close enough?

Appreciate the feedback! :)

Until next time, Happy Building...

Craig C