Not sure if this is what you are looking for or not. JimQuote:
Originally Posted by peterh226
Attachment 139371
Printable View
Not sure if this is what you are looking for or not. JimQuote:
Originally Posted by peterh226
Attachment 139371
That was just what I wanted to see. The angle of those arms gets them pretty close to the window when it is rolled down. Too bad the design does not have the arms more parallel to the door beam. Thanks very much.
In my case it's a non-concern since I went with the rag top w/ zippered side curtains so I have no windows, for most, yes, you are right they would be very close.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh226
Exterior door handles installed and passenger door functional, still working on the driver's side.....these were kind of a PITA given I was working inside the door shell with about 3" of room and chewing my hands up with the rough fiber glass on the inner door. All good though, pleased the way they turned out.
I was in contact with David at FFR today due to the cable travel was about 1.125" too short. I included my photos I used to show him of that here too. David is sending some spacers / links (can't remember what he called them) to connect to the striker assembly which the clevis will then attach to, to give me the additional 1.125" needed but for now I made a bracket which moved the cable mount about 1.25" closer to give me the length I needed. I'll decide on which method (my bracket or David's solution) once I get the parts from FFR.
Next I'll work on the inner door handles. Those "should" be a lot easier.
Here are my measurements I was seeing....keep in mind the overall cable has 2" of travel, with the measure meets here I was figuring I needed 3.125" given how FFR brackets are set up and if I bottomed out the nut on the threaded end.
Attachment 139382
Attachment 139383
Photos of exterior door handle set up:
Attachment 139385
Attachment 139386
Attachment 139387
Attachment 139389
Pic of the passenger door cable set up with the bracket I made to give me the additional length needed
Attachment 139390
Attachment 139388
I found the same issue and I am also using the inside handle. I added a link between the clevis and the bearclaw. See my post at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post438265 for more details. It's about 1.25 in center to center on the holes.
Thanks Peter...on the inside handle, where did you mount the handle? Did you put your inside handle in the removable door panel or into the fiberglass of the door shell above the removal panel. I'm thinking about putting mine in the fiberglass.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh226
Since I don't have to worry about windows I may install some speaker in the door somewhere too.
Interior door handles installed and functional...the cable on these fit fine with no extension required.
Attachment 139486
On to the waterfall next. Also need to install the door striker brackets, but like others mine won't line up to the location on the frame, so I'll just modify them to fit, just need to look at them in a little more in detail verses my initial cursory check to see what I need to modify.
Door hinge covers and fuel tank side panels installed
Attachment 139601
Attachment 139602
Waterfall also installed...fit really nice, I'll most likely end up putting vinyl on the water fall when it's all said and done
Attachment 139603
Attachment 139604
Attachment 139605
Moved on to the roll bar next. found out that 1-1/4" copper tubing with a 1-1/4" coupler at the end fits in the roll bar hole perfectly. Add a 3/8" threaded rod to a 1-1/4" copper cap and soldered the whole assembly together to use it as a jig to figured out where center of each hole was.
Attachment 139606
Attachment 139607
Attachment 139608
Once I figured out where center was for the roll bar I reinstalled the waterfall and transferred my measurements to the waterfall and drill a pilot hole for the hole saw..
Attachment 139609
Attachment 139610
continued in the next post since I used up my picture limit
Continued from above
Used my 12" drill bit one the hole saw to to the angle I'd be drilling on the waterfall, the stubby bit on the hole saw would have causes the hole saw to jump everywhere.
Attachment 139611
I kept the waterfall attached to the car so I could figure out as best I could how the drill needed to sit. Turned out pretty well
Attachment 139612
Attachment 139613
Removed the waterfall to clean up the mess behind it, pulled the seat belts forward and ran speaker wires to the back and through the doors. Installed roll bar (had to open the holes up just bit)
Attachment 139614
Attachment 139615
Attachment 139616
Attachment 139617
Moving on to the hood, side panels and underbelly panels next.
I ordered these 5 days ago, got them yesterday, nice pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Did you buy rear pads too or just use what FF5 supplied?
Your receiver tubes for the roll bar look to be more forward that the ones in our Gen 1 chassis.
Door handles look like what I ended up with. Drivers side striker bracket needed a space, passenger side for ok. The link extender helped with a little more cable length to avoid the window movement.
I only did the front.... I'm used to drums on the back on all our classic mustangs so the 11.65" rear disc/pad combo was a huge improvement already to those.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
Ugh...trimmed the hood this morning only to find this on the front edge. looks like delimitation / voids in the fiberglass. The edge appeared to be solid before I started trimming. I contacted FFR to see next steps.
The one on the corner appears to be really deep.
Attachment 139652
Attachment 139653
Attachment 139654
Attachment 139655
My roof was just as bad, I filled all the voids with short strand fiberglass.
Haven’t got to the hood yet.
Thinking about doing the same, I'm not sure I want to wait around for a new hood. It should be in a fair low impact area.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
100% agree with this method, you can get it premixed with the fibers, use a Dremel and then clean out the gap leaving it rough so the strands and the resin can have something to bite in to. A good quality short strand fiber filler like Evercoat 632 Everglass Short Strand Fiber Reinforced Filler will work great and not crack and provide a great bond as well. Whatever you get make sure it has a little fillers as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
Just now sure how deep it goes, I can press around that area and about 2-1/2 to 3" in, I'm getting that crackle sound like the void is flexing. How much is too deep for the void to be? I suppose a guy could just grind out the whole surface down to the void and then use the short strand fiber filler to build it back up and smooth it out right?Quote:
Originally Posted by AJT '33
A new hood isn't going to be much better. If it runs real deep, squirting in some panel bond and then topping off (the outer 1/4") with the filler Andreas mentions is the way I'd go.
Steve
Thanks Steve...okay, that is what I was wondering if I could do. Sounds good...Thanks guys. JimQuote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Wondering if it's possible to use some sort of vacuum bagging technique to fix a defect like that.
Personally, I think the problem with your hood is a rather easy fix. It is nevertheless a fix still but an easy one in my opinion. I would not bother FFR with this issue. I’m very unimpressed with their customer service and you could easily end up with another questionable hood. Maybe even a worse one. Fixing it myself would be a lot less hassle.
I’ve worked on fiberglass cars (Corvettes) and boats (Hobie Cats) for decades and one problem owners of late 70’s and early 80’s Hobies have is delimitation. Thankfully, newer glues etc. have virtually eliminated this problem today. Hobies are constructed as a sandwich with two layers of fiberglass separated by a layer of foam. Properly bonded, it is very strong. However, the early Hobies often suffered from delimitation as they aged where the layers started separating. Hence the crackling sound. A very good fix is to inject a product between the fiberglass layers called Git-Rot. Git-Rot is designed primarily as a fix for rotting wood boats but works very well for delimitation. It is a thinned liquid epoxy with no filler that is designed to flow through out the damage area. And since it is epoxy the resulting bond is quite strong. Much stronger then your typical polyester or vinylester body fillers. Nor is it like a typical panel bond which while also usually epoxy but also has filler in it. Hobie even has an article on their website describing how to fix delimitation with Git-Rot. With a boat we usually drill some holes so the air will escape but with the hood I think orienting the hood so the delimitation faces upward would suffice and allow the Git-Rot to flow throughout the cracks. Any crackling you hear should then be gone and you should have a nice strong rigid hood again. No drilling of holes or grinding would be necessary. After that you can smooth the edges with body filler of your choice. Good luck.
HTH
Got hit with a blizzard today so I shared time between the 33, snow-blowing and running kids to work since their cars were buried.
Got the hood installed, still minor gapping to do but over all pretty good. I still need to fix the void on the edge mentioned in the posts above. Also installed the hood latch and the release in the cockpit. Not sure why FFR included a 5 foot long cable, I think I trimmed it down to 24".
Started fitting the engine side panels.
Attachment 139767
Attachment 139768
Attachment 139769
Engine side panels installed and hood trimmed to fit the panels. Next up is the lower belly pan, then the full fenders/running boards. The side panels were a little shy on the passenger side so I'll have to do a little glass fill in...no biggie. Also need to glass in the lower edges of the hood (I screwed up on my cut).
3 months ago yesterday (9/25/2020) the kit arrived, so progress has been really good.
Attachment 139885
Attachment 139886
Attachment 139887
Attachment 139888
Attachment 139889
Attachment 139890
Attachment 139891
Attachment 139892
Lower belly pan installed....rear section and openings for suspension lined up great. Waaaay short by the grill but I'll just add material. That is the beauty of fiberglass, pretty easy medium to work with.
Attachment 139928
Attachment 139929
Attachment 139930
Attachment 139931
Attachment 139932
Attachment 139933
Attachment 139934
Attachment 139935
Attachment 139936
Looking great! In just 3 months, that's insanely fast!
Wow, great progress. I keep putting off doing the body as much as possible.
I went into the garage today with the intention of doing some body work but ended up starting to make a sheet metal brake.
Very inspiring Jim. If sweat equity counts as a cost in the build process this could be the cheapest 33 going LOL.
Holes for defroster vents cut in dash & defroster vents installed (I have trim pieces on order for onto top of the dash.
Windshield also installed.....
Moving on to fenders and running boards, hope to have those installed by the end of this weekend.
Attachment 140085
Attachment 140086
Attachment 140087
Attachment 140088
I think we had this discussion already but you're only going heater and defrost, right?
Are you planning on seat heaters too?
Correct...deforst / heater only, no AC...... I bought the Vintage Air II system from Summit Racing). Even in the 80+% humid 90+ degree days we get here in summer, the top is always down in our other two convertibles and no AC in those either....heat / humidity never really bugged me.Quote:
Originally Posted by narly1
No heated seats either, they make me feel like I wet my pants always :o I don't even use the heated seats or heated steering wheel in our Lincoln Navigator in winter.
Jim
I have pretty much the same plans for my future build except for the addition of the heated seats. My boney old backside likes them LOL.
We're pretty much at the same geographic latitude albeit the great lakes moderate the temps/cause more snow for us than you.
Even so the custom car driving season is short for us too, so I get your choices.
Got most of the pieces of the full fenders / running board kit installed yesterday, finished up the rest this morning. Everything line up really well, and fenders / running boards are tight to the body panels (no gaps).
I didn't use rivnuts, I decided to use 1/4-20 Grade 8 bolts... a little more work, but I won't have to worry about them pulling out of the fiberglass later on in life.
Attachment 140265
Attachment 140266
Attachment 140267
Attachment 140268
Attachment 140269
Next I moved onto building support brackets for the running boards. I know my wife for sure will want to step on them verses stepping over them and human nature is for people to try to step on them so I figured I'd just take away the worry and make them functional.
Bolted them to the frame using 5/16-18 grade 8 hardware and then the running boards are shimmed / bolted to the supports using 1/4-20 stainless steel hardware. The bolt are counter sunk and then I'll put a traction strip across them so you won't see them.
I'm 200 lbs and there is no sag when I step on them. I can even rock the car up and down standing on them.
Can't see them at all even looking straight on.
Attachment 140270
Attachment 140271
Attachment 140272
Attachment 140273
Attachment 140274
Attachment 140275
Attachment 140276
A little learning for folks with Gen2 kits. Sorry if this has been pointed out already.
When I was doing the fenders / running boards this weekend I was grabbing the tops of the doors to pull myself up a lot not thinking twice about it. this morning I ran out to the 33 to check a part I had on the inside and the drivers door opened harder than normal and it shut even worse.....I thought WTH. Tried the passenger door and same thing. I had these adjusted where you barely had to push on them and they latched flawlessly. Very odd.
I started looking at it, and thought perhaps I forgot to tighten one of the bolts so the door shifted / sagged ....I checked and nope, everything was tight. Then I started looking at the long door bar and saw the slots in it where the carriage bolts sit connecting the long door bar and the hinge bracket together, and thought even though the bolts are tight are they pivoting in the slots when weight is applied....That is exactly what is happening. Figured this will really apply to the folks with power windows since it adds extra weight to the door shell so I thought I should make you guys aware of this.
While things seem tight, grab the bottom of your door by the striker latch end and lift up and then on the top of the door push down and you can physically watch the long bar teeter in the slots (moves 1/16 to 1/8" which just compounds the farther out you get). There is enough slop in the slots compared to the square on the carriage bolt where the bar can teeter no matter how tight the hardware is.
I ended up drilling 5/16" holes through the long door bar and hinge bracket, and put in two 5/16-18 3/4" grade 8 bolts in each door and it stiffened everything up and won't allow the long door bar to shift/pivot any longer. With the doors open, I can now lean on them and they no longer sag. I may also just tack weld the two parts together since I don't plan on ever taking them part again (they can stay in for painting, I'll just mask them off), but for now this fixes it too.
Just FYI
Jim
Attachment 140336
Beautiful, thanks for the reminder. I had thought about putting even very small bolts through everywhere that has slots (once everything is perfectly aligned) because after that the slots work against us!Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Maybe cap screws instead of carriage bolts along with toothed washers at either end would fix the slippage problem.
AgreeQuote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
Quote:
Originally Posted by narly1
I'm not sure any hardware keeping just two bolts in that slotted area will fix the issue, it's a weak point in the design IMO, I think the best solution is adding a third (I added a 4th) bolt in that area to eliminate the slip / sag or the guaranteed fix is to weld it but then you lose any future adjustment (which I'm not sure that would matter once everything is aligned). Jim
Installed the rag top today...over all installation went pretty well. I did however discover an issue with the zippered side curtain...I got two passenger side curtains verses one passenger and one driver. Guess who I'm calling tomorrow?
Guess I'll hold off on installing the passenger side until I hear more.
Attachment 140544
Attachment 140545
Attachment 140546
Attachment 140547
Attachment 140548
Ya, you're probably right. Fix it once, fix it right, and be done with it.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD