Electrical - Coyote Main Power & PDB Installed
I received the needed items (heat shrink, etc.) I've been waiting on, so was able to finish the Coyote main power installation. I picked up a Group 51 (500 CCA) battery and placed it in the Breeze forward battery box. This allowed me to install the securing rods: one more item checked off the list.
Drawing inspiration from Edwardb and other builders who followed suit, I drilled and tapped a 3/8"-16 hole in the 4" tube to the right of the battery box. After removing the powder coat and applying dielectric grease, I secured the battery (-) cable, as well as the Coyote PDB ground. All of my main power cable is 4 AWG. Breeze supplies a nice length of black with the battery box kit, and F5 supplies a couple lengths of red 4 AWG with the complete kit. So, I didn't have to buy any more. Happy to save a few shekels (for once!).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1629335445
The 10 AWG negative PDB cable is quite long, so I lopped off quite a few feet. Then crimped and soldered on a ring terminal to attach to the chassis location shown above. As other Coyote builders who have had the pleasure of unwrapping the Ford performance wire loom are acutely aware, it is quite the chore. Had to break out my 2X power Costco readers, and put on a head lamp to try to find the ends of the vinyl wrap and electrical tape. I will say it's nice to have a cleaner install, so I suppose it's worth it. I also unwrapped the blue "Starter lead" wire from the Coyote PCM loom, and routed it inside this same loom as the above mentioned PDB ground, 4 AWG to the starter, and 4 AWG battery to master cutoff. It's a bit crowded in that loom, but fits just fine. Used a few cushioned clamps and 3/16" rivets to secure.
Here you can see the Coyote starter lead, and 4 AWG +12V (from the master switch).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1629335460
This same power bundle/loom travels up the diagonal support toward the master cutoff switch. Here you can see the F5 provided L bracket on which the PDB mounts. I really liked it. So, decided to install it per the instructions on top of the PS FB.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1629335478
Up to the master cutoff (Breeze). Hot lead (unswitched) is on top, connected directly to the battery (+), and second 4 AWG to the mega-fuse, which then feeds the PDB. The bottom 4 AWG is switched, and feeds the starter. I'm working on adding a 8 AWG to the bottom 3/8" stud, which will feed a +12VDC bus bar for RF harness power connections inside the dash (a la Edwardb).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1629335592
Here's a top down view of the PDB, and the supplied 250 Amp mega-fuse (cover left open for picture).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1629335495
And finally, PC'd the mounting bracket and installed the computer in the recommended location. Secured the cable to the 3/4" tubes with cushioned clamps.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1629335574
No matter how careful I am I still manage to scratch up the ceramic enamel on the FB panels. Not sure how others are able to keep their panels seemingly scratch/mark/blemish free.
Now back into sorting out the rest of the RF and Coyote electrical. Hoping to make some progress in the not too distant future...we'll see.
P.S. I first saw Shark92651 use cloth adhesive wrap on his engine bay wire looms and liked it. Since I'm basically unwrapping all of them, figured why not dress it up a little (low $$ upgrade) since I have to rewrap it anyway.
P.P.S. I forgot to mention the F5 Coyote Fitment instructions call for a 2" hole in the firewall for the PCM cable--shown in picture above. My caution in measuring the grommet size before drilling paid off, as the hole size needed to be 1.5" for the grommet that came from Ford Performance. Just a friendly heads-up.
RF Wiring Harness Started
It's been almost six weeks since I've touched my build. We lost our son Benjamin, Aug. 26. He would have turned 19 last week. The last time we were together he was in our garage to change the oil in his Honda Civic.
He really liked cars. Anything with some extra performance, i.e. "mods" got his heart pumping. Although his taste in cars and mine weren't exactly the same (he liked Subie WRX, Mitsubishi EVO, etc.), he could still appreciate my Roadster build. In my mind's eye I can see the grin on his face had we been able to take off on first go-kart together someday. I'm so thankful I was able to hug him and tell him I loved him on that final Sunday in our garage.
I'm dedicating this build to Ben. This photo was taken about three years ago (he was 16), but it's one of my favorites.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1642709660
Back in August just before getting started on the RF harness, I installed this bracket for the clutch switch. It's a nice bracket that attaches to the threaded rod of the clutch pedal coming out of MC to actuate the switch plunger. At some point, F5 must have started including these in complete kits with hydraulic clutches. Glad I didn't need to make one. Nice improvement, F5. (It comes as untreated aluminum; I PCd mine).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1633304924
One other item I completed before jumping into RF harness was to unwrap the Coyote transmission harness. Per the F5 instructions, this is required in order to be able to properly route the DS and PS O2 sensors to their respective Coyote header location. A red wire is shared between the DS and PS O2 sensors. I had to cut and extend it so they could be separated to reach their respective O2 locations on the Coyote headers. Here it is after DS and PS separated (before rewrapping).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1633300269
One tip I learned to use in the field many years ago (when I used to solder on a daily basis) is to form a hook on the end of each wire, then press together with pliers. This holds the wires in place, making the connection easier to solder. I plan to solder connections like this v. crimp. Just my preference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1633300234
And, after soldering. Don't forget to slide the heat-shrink over each end before soldering!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1633300248
I also installed a four position bus bar (Blue Sea Systems #2307) for +12V distribution behind the dash area, and a 150A mega-fuse (Blue Sea Systems #5001) which will be connected between the bus bar and alternator. Both are ideas I liked from Edwardb's 20th anniv. build, and are positioned as you see in his build here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post234044
Back to the RF harness, the progress I made back in Aug. was basically unwrapping the main harness. Boy, was it a lot easier to unwrap than the Ford Performance harnesses. Though I must say I was a bit surprised to see masking tape wrapped around the wires when I removed the loom. Wasn't expecting to see that, though I suppose since they are mostly (completely?) away from heat sources once installed I'm guessing it's okay.
Here's where I left off the third week of August.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1633300219
To keep the harnesses organized and labeled for future reference I attached these non-metallic cable labels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1633305911
Perhaps tomorrow I will get back on the build. Before getting back into the RF harness, I am going to pick what should be a straight-forward task: installing the IRS adapter. The supplied metric socket head bolts require a specific torque value, so I just "had" to buy a DeWalt 3/8" socket drive set, metric and SAE. This is $20 well spent IMHO. I feel much better when critical safety items are torqued accurately.
A Dashboard is Born - Part 1
I decided I better dive into the dash as my next step in electrical. After many hours of labor, head-scratching, more labor, and greater expense than anticipated (!!!!) my dashboard finally entered this world. Did I mention the labor part? It doesn't yet have it's "skin", but it's in place and solid. I wanted to do something a little different, so the dash's skin will be powder coat. The metal dash is also a nod back to cars from the Cobra era.
I was planning to use kit-supplied dash, but changed my mind for two reasons. (1) The supplied dash has 25+ holes 1/8" in diameter drilled randomly throughout--see picture below. (2) The visibility of the large guage cutout to the left side of the steering shaft is almost completely blocked by the steering wheel--that just won't do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1636306728
So, I set out to create my own dash. Picked up a piece of 0.080 aluminum from my local metal shop ($42), traced the perimeter of the kit supplied 0.040 dash, and cut it out with my jigsaw.
After reading how many builders made their dash removable with the body on, I figured it would be prudent to do the same. I chose to follow Edwardb's approach (no surprise). However, I completely underestimated the level of challenge this would be for me. The precision required to align the brackets, nutplates, and dash so the 10-32 screws thread in easily was daunting. This is probably not a big issue for more seasoned builders.
Here's a summary of the steps I took to duplicate Edwardb's approach:
(1) Cut angle brackets from 1"X1"X1/8" angle aluminum. These get attached to the dash using 100 deg. tapered SS screws (also 10-32). I used 10-32 SS socket heads to attach these brackets to the nutplates. Here's an example of the materials:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1636306728
(2) I used JB Weld to attach the nutplates to the dash hoop. Again, precision is critical on this step. Drilled holes into the dash hoop behind the nutplates to allow the 10-32 screws to fully engage the threads, and provide a little extra length. Finally, secured 1/8" rivets into the dash hoop through holes in the nutplates I previously drilled. Filed the rivet heads flat. In hindsight, I would have countersunk the rivet holes in the nutplates, but didn't because I was concerned about removing too much material. Sounds easy enough, right? Probably is for others.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1636306728
Here's a view of the countersunk holes. This one has a 3/16" rivet instead of two 10-32 screws because I needed more runway clearance on the back side for the 10-32 socket head that threads vertically between the lock nuts into the nutplate. I think it's plenty solid but lesson learned: space these apart a little further to allow ample clearance for the 10-32 socket head. These are now filled with JB Weld and sanded smooth.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1636306765
Backside view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1636306765
(3) Spending some time sitting in the cockpit (in the actual seat) with the steering wheel in position, and blank dash in place was really helpful. Like others, I spent time moving the gauges around using paper cut outs. I eventually found an arrangement that maximizes visibility. And, puts front and center the vitals I want to monitor most frequently. For me, a builders square and tape measure were critical to keep the layout centered and aligned.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1636306728
To my surprise, laying out the gauges wasn't quite as difficult/tedious as I expected. I considered the circle cutter option to cut the holes, but was less than confident I could make it work. So, I put the old drill press to work with hole saws. I had to pick up quite a few hole saws ($$!!), and seemed to have started a collection.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1636913418
A Dashboard is Born - Part 2
Drill press earning it's keep:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1636306728
Oh, and I discovered the deburring tool. Where has it been over the last year?! It's worth every penny of the $18 I spent.
To make the 90 deg. bend in this thick 0.080 dash I paid a local fabricator. However, I was able to curve the ends using clamps, a paint can, and a 3" scrap piece of electrical conduit. It was effective--use what you got, right? I've been told the ends are not visible once the body is on, so not to worry if not perfect. The curved ends will not be fastened.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1636306765
On a recent thread Straversi mentioned he doesn't toss (discard) steel. I concur, and was able to put the unused Coyote gas pedal mount brackets to good use as support brackets for the grab handle. (Interestingly, the bracket that came with my kit was bent backwards, so F5 sent me a replacement. Now I had two. I was not happy with the way it mounted, so made my own pedal bracket; the silver lining is these were almost perfect for use with the grab handle). Some trimming, bending, and couple holes drilled, then a run through the 460.465USMC powder coating shop and they work perfectly.
Pedal mount before:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1636913418
Pedal mount after - installed as grab handle support. One for each side of grab handle. A couple of the Breeze underdash mount supports (4 total) can be seen in this view as well (PCd these as well). I think I ordered these in a moment of weakness, as they would have been easy enough to make. But, they were at a fair price, and they fit perfectly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1637033167
I picked up a couple lights from the trailer section of my local farm and feed store. To be used as footwell lights, one is installed on the DS footwell (attached to Breeze underdash support) and one on the PS. I used 10-32 nutserts to attach Breeze mounts to the bottom side of dash.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1637035520
Cutting in the keyhole for the headlight switch didn't turn out great. So, I repurposed the perfectly cut keyhole in the supplied F5 underdash bracket, and attached it to the back of the dash directly behind the keyhole I cut. Helped keep the switch from rotating.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1637033167
And finally, the assembled dash in place. One of the seat heaters from Cobraheat is still on order - hence the empty hole to the left.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1637033167
A Dashboard is Born - Part 3
Seriously! Three updates for one dash?! Okay, guess this was a big milestone for me. :p
Here's the view from the driver's seat. The small black button on the lower left is for the Speedo menus.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1637033167
As far as dash extras (i.e. not part of the kit):
- DS and PS seat heater controls (CobraHeat)
- USB/12V charging ports
- 9" grab handle for passenger
- Trim ring from Replica Parts
I will eventually install the Breeze cubby, so decided against a glove box. I plan to use the button on the RT turn signal for the horn.
Hope to have the dash powder coated soon.
Thanks to many who shared their great ideas. A special thanks to JohnK and Edwardb for dash-building tips and advice.
