If you're looking down from the top, the fittings were drilled at the sides facing inward to the engine. It seemed like a more directly route, and less bends.
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If you're looking down from the top, the fittings were drilled at the sides facing inward to the engine. It seemed like a more directly route, and less bends.
Any pictures of the tank in the chassis?Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
No photo at this time, but I'll snap one tomorrow. Here's a quick sketch though:
The 90 degree AN fittings are facing forward, an the hose is looped just in front of the crank pulley
with about 6 inches of clearance.
Attachment 12235
Here you go sir!
The fitting isn't connected, but this is how it lays.
Attachment 12239Attachment 12242Attachment 12240Attachment 12241
Running electrical today, and connecting the mock-up panel for engine start. Fun stuff.
Thanks. But I really wanted to see where the fitting was relative to the chassis bars in that area.Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
So what day are you looking at for the first start:cool:?
How about this angle (driver's side)? I'm not sure about the date; still waiting on cooling system parts to be delivered.
If they show up this week, and the isntall goes well I'll say Monday 15th. for 1st start.
Attachment 12243Attachment 12244
I'm really getting tired of waiting for parts to ship from my suppliers. Friggin' back-order,
and special order parts are terrible!
Not much can be done until the rest of the cooling system parts arrive,
and nobody wants to see wiring (right?)!
Here are some random shots as I'm dragging my butt through the wiring detail.
Passenger side fuel tank capped, threaded, and sealed for high pressure return.
Attachment 12405Attachment 12407
Cooling system return connected, and checked for clearance.
Attachment 12406Attachment 12409Attachment 12408
Finishing up some loose ends with the electrical, and then I'll be able to communicate with the PCM, and check the starter shimming. 2-3 weeks longer for the cooling system parts as I had to special order from a new supplier. This car may go-kart before the snow hits!
I found these power blocks to run stereo wiring, and also serve to route main power to the fuse panels. I'll see if there's a way to make them look less 'stereo competitionish' as theylay in the GTM.
Attachment 12503
Movin' along with the exhaust, and wiring. I'm thinking tomorrow night will be the PCM comm. check with HP Tuners. The start circuits should also be ready for testing!
Right now I'm cutting up some pieces to map out the exhaust. I'll be using three inch mandrel bent piping from the collector, to the tips. There appears to be enough room
for a cross-over pipe even with the intake air box mounted at the rear. At the moment I'll leave it without mufflers until the car is ready for plating!
Attachment 12568Attachment 12569Attachment 12570
Now I'll have to buy welder to tack the pieces in place. Ohhh dear, more tools in the house...what a shame! :D
Saw these lights today, and I think I'm in love? 2013 Malibu.
Attachment 12579Attachment 12580
I think they would be easier to 'glass in than Audi A8 lights?
Attachment 12582
I don't know why I'm posting this update? Maybe just to make it appear like my build is moving forward. No sign of cooling parts yet. Still researching welders.
My car is just sitting in limbo, with some pieces tagged on for fitting, and testing.
Some green painters tape to hold the elbow in place. Even the piece on the right is a test pipe, and will be replaced. The axle bolts are barely inserted. Why do I post this you ask? Just cuz.
I'm thinking I'll have to fab up some sort of heat sheid to protect the speed sensor. It's gonna get hotttttttttttttttt!
Attachment 13071
Installed the filter to keep the dust out of the intake. This will be replaced with an insulated air box after the mufflers are fitted, and the body goes on.
I don't like how close the filter sits to the hot exhaust.
Attachment 13072
Here's just a random shot of where I'm at this week. Maybe I'll get some power connected to the computer tomorrow, and see if she talks!
Attachment 13073
So close, yet so far.
Have a good evening my FFR friends.
most people relocate the air filter. you're right, it'll just be sucking really hot air right in the engine.
^ We might as well plumb the exhaust directly into the intake. It would make one hell of a 'charger! :D
One more baby step forward as I was able to get HP Tuners talking with the PCM today. All the initial settings look good
except for an odd cell value in the timing table. Not sure how that ended up there. No biggie, just weird.
Attachment 13083
I think that you are going to have an issue with the 'wrap-around' nature of these taillights. You pretty much have a flat surface on the GTM where the taillights are, it would take a heck of a lot of work to fit lights that wrap like that. I will show what I did soon...I am almost done.Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
Please do; I'd love to see your ideas, and your build photos.
I'm not sold on any lights at the moment. I have a list of about nine lights that might work. The Audi A8 is really cool looking, but may be too big to fit in the space. I'll just keep dreaming until that point in the build arrives.
P.S. My cooling system parts finally arrived! I'll be getting the motor buttoned up this week, and hopefully post an engine start video by mid month.
So here's the remote thermostat housing that held me back. This will be "fun" to connect while keeping all braided lines, and coolant hoses away from the motor,
yet out of the rear view mirror.
Attachment 13149
I'm torn on this water pump/remote housing setup. It solved some clearance issues, but also created some set backs, not to mention the expense. There is a
bleeder valve at the top which should make purging air a snap. My biggest peeve is the cooling hose that will route just over my right shoulder. It shouldn't be
an issue for blind spot checks, but the hose will probably be seen in the rear view mirror. I'm tentative about this location, but I don't see any other way.
Attachment 13152Attachment 13153
If anyone can think of an alterantive, I'm all ears (eyes)! The only other criteria is that the intake manifold, and fuel lines are not to contact the hose.
Attachment 13150Attachment 13151
Next will be plumbing the AN lines to the heater core, fluids & priming, then setting connecting the ignition wires for start-up.
Rear lights for the GTM? I'm thinking yes...maybe. These would make the top five on my list for appearance, and maybe #1 for ease of install.
Attachment 13324Attachment 13325
This is a customer's car which will be getting a s/c upgrade. Interior is sparse. Very little room, and quite loud from the engine noise.
Attachment 13326Attachment 13327Attachment 13328
How about the lights on this Diablo instead? They are flat enough, and probably worth more than my car.
Love the sound of that engine. The Lambo was turning heads, and slowing traffic from the opposite direction
at the intersection. Wish I had my GTM so I could feel somewhat important...I don't think anyone was checking
out my Saturn. :(
http://www.facebook.com/video/video....51536225004148
A better view
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10151536243669148
Speaking of views, how did you like the opening scene of the movie, "Flight"? :cool:
Right now I am tossing up between those but with the European amber turn signals or a set of Hella rear light modules. The Lotus ones are still at the top because, to me, they look better and more refined.
P
I agree 'Nark, the Lotus lights look better, however much more expensive.
The cooling system is complete; just some hose clamps for the heater core pipe,
and I'll be able to test the pump, and check for leaks.
Sorry about the poor quality pics.
Attachment 13365Attachment 13366Attachment 13367
If all goes well, and I'm not too lazy the engine will fire up this weekend.
As you see from the photo the fuel tank is positioned, and the firewall pieces
are resting in place.
Is there supposed to be a space between the roll bar, and window section?
I can't push the fuel tanks back any further, which means I'll need to fabricate
a bracket to hold the window, and firewall to the roll bar, correct?
Attachment 13499
P.S. I'm grabbing some oil, and coolant this afternoon. Egine Start video to come soon!
Tino;
your gas tank needs to go back more, the blue pipe from the tank should almost be touching the round tubing that the rear window panel mounts too.
not sure what year your tanks are, but some have had to heat them up on one side to push them into place. I had to push mine in a little with some force, but I had more
foam protection between the tank and frame.
I also had to grind down the seams on the bottom of the tank. The were sticking up about 1/8" to 1/4" this would not allow the tank to side all the way back.
Thanks guys. This is probably covered in the manual, but I stopped reading it months ago!
Hi Tino.Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
If I remember correctly, it seems that the rear of the tanks were supposed to be gradually heated with a torch held away from the tank, so that the plastic would give a bit. Then you gently move the tank into place, and allow it to cool once you have it pushed all the way back. Obviously you'll want to make surethat they are empty and clear of any fumes.
I used the aluminum tanks so I didn't actually have to do this myself. I can't remember if I read this in the manual, or in one of the posts...
Take Care,
Mike
Mike, at this point I've decided to make brackets to allow the tanks to fit as-is. I may have to rework the engine cover, but I'm not feeling the desire to melt down the tanks for
a couple of inches of firewall clearance. Unless the displaced firewall interfere's with the interior, it's my game plan.
Today I finally finished the right side tank installation. I'm left with a few minor connections, and then I have no excuse for delaying the test start of the motor. Tomorrow I'm
going to dedicate some time to wiring the ignition, and pressure testing the cooling, and fuel system.
Saturday is the video upload with, or without a running motor! :eek:
Just a bit of spaghetti wiring to clean, and loom-up. Fuel, and cooling system complete.
Attachment 13576
Common grounding block for engine, and interior electrical systems. Today, red means ground! Since
this will be covered up, I'm not too concerned about the spider cracks in the case. Just don't tell anyone...
Attachment 13577
Gauges are hooked up, and tested. Let's hope the engine produces some pressure during prime.
Attachment 13578
Gauge pod with matching texture. Should go well with the dash covering. It may need to be reupholstered for the final install.
Attachment 13579
Tino;
you need to get the tanks in where they belong. If I am not mistaken, the tanks you have come from a 2000 model year. (pretty sure thats what Alain told me).
a lot of things will be affect with the tank a few inchs forward. rear firewall will not fit, engine cover will be pushed forward and will interfer with center dash piece that extends
to the rear engine cover. plus it will add gaps to the sides were aluminum gets riveted to tunnel.
I would trim off all the excess seams, as I had to do that. and just wiggle the tanks until that are just about in, then the aluminum covers will hold it nicely in.
last resort, get another set of tanks. it will less headache in the long run.
I'm going to re-work the tanks after the engine start/karting stage if necessary. My focus right now is getting the engine, and exhaust complete so I can get the body
back on for door fitting, etc.
Today I picked up this huge, ugly looking thing. It will be nice for priming the motor before starts, and supplying oil/oil pressure in the event of a drop out. Where to install it,
and how to make it sexier... remove the sticker, and powder coat? Paint it something other than bare aluminum? Planning to remove that handle for an electric valve that
will activate on each start. Find a solution for one thing, and then create more work it seems!
Attachment 13586
I know, I know...no start video! Fair enough, you'll get it this weekend.
Picked up a bunch of stuff for the oil system, and interior however!
Accelerator pedal, seat rails, power window motors/regulators, windshield fluid pump, dual power mirrors, door handles. $1320 all in.
Not bad pricing considering the dealer wants $750 per window system.
Attachment 13697Attachment 13698
I'm pretty much $50K in the hole. Already surpassed my budget/forecast by $5K, and I still need paint, rims, tires, windshield, etc.
Makes me wish I had gone the donor route, but I doubt it would have been possible to get a C5 for less than $15K.
Actually IIRC I have been seeing people getting donors for less than $5k. You may have to replace a suspension arm or two, but you can replace a lot of those with $10-12k!Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1
I'd love to know your contacts because there is nothing around here, or even border side for that little. I had my car dealer friend check auctions, and everything.
Nobody is giving up the Vette's, and certainly not trashing them in the wreckers (checked there too).
The closest I found was a half-hacked C5 in your state, but it was too much, and the shipping would have been hell.
On another note, the GTM battery is at 9.8 Volts. :( The computer isn't connecting to HP Tuners, and the MIL LED is on.
No start video today, but I bought myself a charger for an early Christmas present. We'll see how my luck goes tomorrow!
So close, yet so damn far!
Fuzzy was the master/middle man on those deals. Haven't seen him around much lately, but he did some great work in getting some good deals for people that needed a donor...as I recall.
Fuzzy was a bear, and Fuzzy had no hair. Where was Fuzzy when I needed him!? :mad:
Another tid-bit of bad luck with the start date: The oil adapter thread does not mate with the filter adapter coupler which means
the accumulator cannot be installed.
I'll have to find a thread that will fit the oil galley, and work with the oil adapter fitting. Here's hoping that a local hardware store will
have a fitting for my setup. Then, I'll have to replace the oil filter to mate with the accumulator adapter.
On a positive note, the engine is filled with coolant, and no leaks (so far). The water pump is working, but the pressure test will
happen once the engine is running. The AutoTap, and HP Tuner scanners show that all sensors are responding.
Attachment 13841Attachment 13842
I found a solution for the accumulator after some browsing on Russell's site. A quick test fit set the ball in motion to order a metric adapter,
and plumb the system into the upper oil port of the block. A bit more work as the manifold had to be removed, and the -10 braided line was
scrapped for -8 size because there wasn't a 16mm adapter for -10 hose! It's a good thing I'm made of money...
Once all that was assembled, the electo-mag valve wouldn't test. I figured the valve was faulty, so apart it came. Didn't see anything wrong;
but hold that thought.
Ultimately the electro-valve was omitted, and the line was connected directly to the manual valve on the accumulator - at least that would allow
me to prime the motor. With a shot of compressed air, the cylinder pressurized, then I cracked the valve. Oil could be heard flowing into the motor,
as well as down to the pan. A quick check of the dipstick indicated the correct amount of oil was infused.
The sad part of the day happened to be test start; or should I say, "Lack of test start". The battery appears to be faulty as it wont hold a charge.
After a night on charge, the voltage drops to about 10.3 with only the PCM loading the circuit, and a severe drop to 3 volts when trying to run the
the fuel pump.
I'd like to think the fuel pump is fine, but I'll test it with another battery BEFORE yanking the GTM battery...cuz we all know how fun that's going to be!
With the PCM loading down the battery to 10.3 volts, I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is not the problem.
Some days I just want to quit. It has been uphill for a quite a while now.
Fuel, and vacuum gauges in place waiting for the start test. Accumulator is pressurized to ~70 PSI.
Attachment 13939Attachment 13940
Alternate location for accumulator feed. Looks pretty good here, and away from the exhaust.
Attachment 13941Attachment 13942Attachment 13943
Success! Removed the battery from my daily driver, and hooked up the GTM electrical. The computer spooled up, and the fuel pump buzzed a nice, healthy tone.
It appears I'll be able to startup the engine tomorrow (if all is well)!
For those in the early stages of build: Do yourself a favour and install a battery that is small enough to remove without dismantling half the front end. With a little
force, I was lucky enough to remove the battery while keeping the steering rack in place. I'm going to find a smaller, lighter replacement which shouldn't be a problem.
It's also a good time to relocate the A/C hoses because we all know it's just a matter of time before the battery will need to be swapped again.
An extra inch of width, and an extra inch of length built into the GTM would solve many problems.
Attachment 13968Attachment 13969
Some days I just want to quit. It has been uphill for a quite a while now.
Hang in there Tino. We,ve all been there. You are so very close to a huge infusion of enthusiasm the first time you hear your baby fire up. Remember the harder the battle the sweeter the victory. Just how sweet will your victory be?
Steve
Hey Steve, you know a GTM owner would never give up. We (myself mostly) just like to vent!
It has been a couple of years since my SS was sold, so hearing and feeling a V8 light-up will be VERY sweet.
Now get over here, and paint my car! :cool:
Tino.
Invest in a battery tender that is correct for your battery and you won’t have these issues in the future.
I resisted and after removing mine a couple of times, (Optima red) to go and get it checked thinking that I had smoked it, (it was OK but my traditional charger was not good for a gel cell), I have not regretted the cost.
The Optima red is not too big but Effin heavy for the leverage that you can provide in that little space.
Rebuilding a car from a car manufacturer is still a pain in the butt and that is one that has already been together previously and driven so just keep that in mind. With your GTM you are going where no one has been before. You are in the true sense "building" this car. Something to be proud of, frustrated and pissed off at the same time. ;-)
So GTM owners are just like their cars...if they don't vent properly they overheat and blow up?
Dave, I picked up a charger last week, but it didn't help. The regulator would show 12.6 volts, and stop charging the battery. As soon as I put any sort of load on the system, the voltage would drop significantly.
Even something as light as the PCM would drop 2.5 volts. It couldn't even power the fuel pump. Battery can't charge.
This kit has been sitting for several years before I bought it; and 1.5 years since being in my possession.
I'm happy knowing that I'm ten minutes away from a test start! :D
No more venting for a while, I promise.