Star Mobile 1 Build

Take a look at the 35 PU pictures. I think it has a larger tank about in the position I put mine. I used a larger tank due to more water volume in my heads and I mounted it back on the firewall. After the initial "equalization" burp and vent I have run this on 90 degree days with plenty of static idling time with no "wet spots" . Glycol has more shrink and swell than plain water and running a little hotter requires more volume. Running the fan off the radiator temperature and keeping it below 175 helps also. I don't care if you want the engine at 210. Do that with the engine thermostat and sense the EFI off the manifold, but keep the radiator temp lower and half the volume issue is conquered.

So the firewall positioning for the reservoir won out...

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I also ran the TV cable for the transmission...

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I cleaned up the fuel line and heater hose a little with a few hose separators...

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I also installed the shifter linkage...

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Hope to get some more wiring done this week.

I didn't get nearly as much wiring as I had hoped for completed this weekend.
Wired the neutral safety switch for the trans...

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Wired headlight switch, ignition & temporarily installed...

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Installed the inertia switch & cleaned up some of the wiring...

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Then had to take a break from the wiring, so I jumped to the exhaust. It's like one of those Chinese slide puzzles...

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Only got a quarter of the way through the exhaust, hope to have it complete along with some additional wiring later this week.

I was also able to install the trans fluid dipstick...
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And I installed the firewall pieces of the FF pre-cut sound deadener and heat shield. I won't know about functionality until I can get this thing on the road, but as far as ease of install, I give this stuff an A+ and well worth the money as an option...

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Also, this is as far as I got with the exhaust...

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I have been following your build from the beginning and must admit your build is a class act and an inspiration. Your build is a couple of weeks ahead of mine so I check frequently. I am going to be installing a motor and transmission similar to yours, in fact the supplier even sent me pictures of yours when I was inquiring about one. Question for you - what are you using for a shifter?

I appreciate the kind comments duff33 and good luck on your build. Don’t let the pretty pictures fool you though, there’s been plenty of knuckle bustin’ and cursin’ and feeling way in over my head several times (like now with the wiring)! I went with a 10” Lokar Transmount Shifter (lok-ats6aoddl). Not sure if I should have gone shorter on shifter, but I can always change the length out.

Thank you for the info. I just layed out my wiring and know exactly what you mean.

Intent was to do some more wiring this weekend, but just couldn't bring myself to it...maybe this week. Instead I worked on getting the exhaust as far a long as I could. Not too impressed with the FFR hangers that are provided...seem to take some "contorting" to get them to work. I haven't installed them all yet as I am still debating an alternate solution.

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Great photos, I started the install this weekend also. No engine yet just a loose install for now. The manual lacks a lot of detail in this area. I have an IRS but your layout pretty much matches mine. I did notice the exhaust clamps were on with the nuts facing up. One item that was stressed in the build school was to install the clamps with the nuts facing down to support removal at a later date. My front pipes were missing the clamps, FFR is sending them. I also wrapped my mufflers with heat shield.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tampa33Build

Great photos, I started the install this weekend also. No engine yet just a loose install for now. The manual lacks a lot of detail in this area. I have an IRS but your layout pretty much matches mine. I did notice the exhaust clamps were on with the nuts facing up. One item that was stressed in the build school was to install the clamps with the nuts facing down to support removal at a later date. My front pipes were missing the clamps, FFR is sending them. I also wrapped my mufflers with heat shield.

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Thanks. Actually, I have one installed nuts up and one nuts down, but you are correct. Installing them nuts down (as advised at the build school) would be the preferred method to allow for future removal. I’m still trying to decide whether I’m going to stay with the factory hangers and will probably adjust. Not only good to hear from a fellow build school attendee, but I also noticed (at least in my manual) FFR has updated to state installing them nuts down as well. I’ll definitely be adding some heat shield too.

I have been under the weather the last week and a half, so not a lot of progress on the build. I hope to get back at it this weekend though!

I was able to get a little work in this weekend. Some of the pics are from a few weeks ago though. I'm trying to get caught back up after the weather got me down.

I had mounted my solenoid inside the firewall initially, which my gut told me not to do the whole time. On a tangent, one thing that I have learned throughout this process, is that if your not okay with something about your build (no matter how small it might be), YOU will always know it's there and if you don't make it the way you really want it to be, it will always bother you. At least that is the way I have found myself to be, I guess it is true that we are our own worst critics. Anyway back to the solenoid... I knew it was going to be cramped and WHEN it goes out, it would make for a difficult change out, but I tried it anyway...
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You can see from the get go what a mess it was going to be, but I was really trying to keep it off the firewall on the engine side. Things didn't look any better after adding a few wires...
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So needless to say, to the engine side of the firewall it went and actually it didn't turn out too bad. I went ahead and added a power distribution block (probably could have gone with a smaller one) and I also went ahead and added a ground cable from the mounting tab of the solenoid directly to the chasis...
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOP33

if your not okay with something about your build (no matter how small it might be), YOU will always know it's there and if you don't make it the way you really want it to be, it will always bother you.

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SO TRUE! I just spent a weekend taking apart the rear and swapping brakes side-to-side (with all that entails) because it bothered me. It was always staring at me!

I was also able to get the trans cooler lines ran. For now I just went with the black rubber lines. I hope to go with a braided stainless set-up like some of the other builders have used, but this should get me to the go-kart stage (if I make it there:confused:).

I also tightened up the trans mount bolts and set the pinion angle. I say set, but since I have the four-link there was really not much adjustment and honestly I didn't even have to use any spacers to get may angles. I did have to get FFR to send me the 12 point bolts that attach the driveshaft to the rear end as they were not in the driveshaft box. FFR had them to me the next morning!
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I temporarily ran the battery wire to the back of the vehicle (as I am putting the battery in the trunk). I did split it for a power cut off to be installed behind the passenger seat...
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I am still working through some of the cable and wire routing. Has anyone split the fiberglass trans tunnel in two pieces? I haven't done this yet, but I have been toying around with the idea. It sure seems like it would make routing the wires and installing the tunnel a little easier. Is there something further down the line that might make this a bad decision to do so? Would appreciate input on this.
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I cut out a temporary plate for the gauges. I went with the Legends, GPS gauges from FFR.
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I think I had mentioned previously that I wasn't to keen on FFR's exhaust hangers, I just ended up get some universal hangers from the local hot rod shop and used them. They seemed to be a little easier to bend for mounting. In the rear I just have them clamped in place until I get the body in place...
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This is the car as it sits right now...
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I am still trying to piece together the wiring portion of the build. It has been the biggest challenge for me so far and has slowed me down quite a bit, but I'm making some headway. Trying to integrate the EFI harness and the FFR wiring harness has been the challenge as the instructions (from both FFR and Holley EFI) have been a little vague with regards to meshing items up. I completely understand the reason for this as you can't spec out every option for the build. As mentioned, it's moving slow, but still moving. I had hoped for an end of the year first start, but it is looking more like end of February now. I just surpassed the year anniversary of ordering my kit and it has been a blast so far. Challenging at times, but I am reminded by my wife that it's the journey not the destination:p. Just want to thank all that helped so far and offered input. Keep peaking in as I am almost certain I have a few more mistakes in me!

Thanks

So not to be a buzz kill, but you know don't need the relay mounted on the firewall right? Your stater has it's own relay. I know a lot of guys keep them even if they don't need them, but it's just another thing to wire but for no reason unless you are using it for another purpose than to run the starter. You can run your main battery wire directly to the starter and then run your alternator main power to it also. Just a thought.

And another thing, follow Holly's requirement to the letter about connecting the main power and ground directly to the battery. Weird stuff happens when you try and do you own thing like run it through a disconnect switch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Arrowhead

So not to be a buzz kill, but you know don't need the relay mounted on the firewall right? Your stater has it's own relay. I know a lot of guys keep them even if they don't need them, but it's just another thing to wire but for no reason unless you are using it for another purpose than to run the starter. You can run your main battery wire directly to the starter and then run your alternator main power to it also. Just a thought.

And another thing, follow Holly's requirement to the letter about connecting the main power and ground directly to the battery. Weird stuff happens when you try and do you own thing like run it through a disconnect switch.

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Agree on the solenoid, but after speaking with Engine Factory they suggested using the solenoid. Since they built up the engine I went with their advice. Also, to be clear, the EFI and fuel pump bypass the disconnect and run straight to the battery.
Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOP33

Agree on the solenoid, but after speaking with Engine Factory they suggested using the solenoid. Since they built up the engine I went with their advice. Also, to be clear, the EFI and fuel pump bypass the disconnect and run straight to the battery.
Thanks

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There are other issues than just running the "big wire" to the starter in some instances. For example if you run a tremec neutral safety or some other low current clutch switch etc you may want the "Ford" solenoid to step up current to the starter solenoid if so equipped. I tried not using the Ford solenoid on the firewall and going directly to the starter but missed the robust flywheel engagement one too many times. I do have the battery cable directly on the starter, but needed more awg for solenoid to kick it in my application.

Results may vary...

Still working through the routing and wiring, what a mess...right!
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I went ahead and cut the trans tunnel down the center. It allows me the flexibility to remove the individual sides as I try to accommodate all the wires. I think I am also going to "C" cut the tunnel on both sides up toward the firewall, push in as far as I can and then re-glass. This will give me at least another 1" to 1-1/2" foot room on both sides and I should still have plenty of clearance for the wires to travel...
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I have been in contact with FFR and Holley over the last few days and they have been able to help advise me on some of the questions I had about the wiring. It seems like I do about 3 hours of reading or research then 10 minutes of wiring and then back to the research. After talking to them I will be able to run the fan off of the EFI computer actually pretty easily and then I can change the cut in/off temps in the controller.

I know they are just temporary, but I don't think I have ever used this many zip ties on anything! They are all over the floor. I can't seem to buy enough:).

It's looking great Jamie, I remember the same issues with wiring and so much rerouting. Eventually you will get through it and then the teething issues when something doesn't work right. When you test the circuits for the first time, I recall somebody on the forum suggested using a fuse holder with a 5 amp fuse placed between the positive terminal of the battery and the battery lead to prevent damage by sacrificing the fuse instead of a component. Then use an ammeter in the same position with the key off to check for excessive battery drain. I had no short issues but I found .25 amp current drain that was traced to the alternator field wire, the Honda alternator does not accept uncontrolled field power, so I had to use a relay to control the field power. After the changes I found the drain was .015 amps, which has proven acceptable.

Fantastic meeting you and your wife yesterday. Look forward to seeing your build in person

I spent the majority of the week focused on getting the Gauges, EFI and a couple accessory fuse blocks connected. The Speedhut Legends gauges (option from FFR) with the GPS eliminated a lot of the factory wiring. For the most part I didn't use the entire sending unit harness or most of the dash harness.

Gone entirely...
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It's funny how at the beginning of the week I had to run to the auto parts store for wire, but by the end of the week I had plenty to pull from...
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I ended up using quick connects for the time being. Once I confirm everything works as it should, I intend to go back and solder the rest of the connections, heat shrink and shield...
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This is the help I got...
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I added a couple accessory fuse blocks to the passenger side firewall. It gives me (4) dedicated 12v Constants and (5) 12v Ignition Switched all fused. I will eventually cover the plate with an access panel and then of course heat shield, sound deadener and carpet. I lose a little foot room because of it, but it is still more room than what is on the driver's side with the pedals. I know it looks a mess, but my focus has been getting connections made at this point and labeling wires. I will clean it up when I start tucking (cramming) everything back in...
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I still have quite a bit of connections to make...the fuel pump, the kill switch, the inertia switch (I move it to the trunk), the A/C-Heater (back to that in a minute) and of course the battery. I probably left out a few things, but you get the idea. I won't bore you with anymore wiring pics as you can do ten hours worth of work, take twenty pictures and it all still looks the same:eek:. I know it may not look like it, but I really did make some headway in the wiring this week. What I found for me was that the short spurts of time during a normal week that I could focus on the wiring, just ended up frustrating me more. I would spend and hour or so figuring out where I left off and then do about thirty minutes of "new" work. The next night is was the same all over again. I ended up taking a week off just to focus on the wiring and it worked out well for me. Of course the test will be when I try to crank this thing for the first time, so we'll have to see. I knew going in that the wiring was going to present the greatest challenge for me and so far it hasn't disappointed!

So I had mentioned wiring the A/C earlier. I am currently trying to get some additional information from the third-party vendor that I purchased the unit from, so I am sure some things will become clearer to me. Ultimately, I think my challenge has been integrating the EFI with the A/C and fan. The bolt on EFI system has allowances for A/C shut off @ WOT (disengages the clutch at wide open throttle), increasing idle when the clutch engages and also controls the cut-in/cut-out temps on the fan which is all great, but it's relay after relay after relay! I am exaggerating it slightly, but it has become a little confusing to me in trying to keep it all straight. So I pulled off the wiring for a bit and started working on the routing of the A/C lines and the location for the drier. This may sound stupid, but doesn't the trinary switch work as a safety? So is there a need for an A/C shut off and a trinary switch? Maybe I am misunderstanding the concept of them both. I'll work through it all in time. Meanwhile I was able to get a few things resolved with A/C line connections...
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I am going to change out a few of the fittings and nothing is crimped yet, but I think I should be ok here. It looks a little tighter in the picture than it actually is (running lines under the pivot point on the upper control arm), but I really didn't want to route the lines all the way down under the chassis either. I am prepared to change this if I need to, but I think I will leave it this way until after go-karting...
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I also decided on this location for the drier. I am going to fab a bracket that grabs the diameter of the drier and then cups the bottom holding it in place. I can mount the bracket through its bottom plate to the lower square tube. Just not a lot of qood ways to mount the drier to the round tubes (that I found)...
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Hope to get a little more time in wiring tomorrow before getting back to work on Monday.

The trinary switch protects against over and under pressure conditions and turns the fan on before the condenser pressure gets too high. Protection against excessive compressor speed must come from some other source that monitors engine speed. You should have a fan relay that reacts to the engine temp sensor. The ground signal from the trinary switch should go to the same terminal on the fan relay. That way, only one relay is needed to control the fan.

If I had chrome plated accessories, I'd use stainless steel braided hose for the AC lines. I used them anywhere they show.

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Originally Posted by DaveS53

The trinary switch protects against over and under pressure conditions and turns the fan on before the condenser pressure gets too high. Protection against excessive compressor speed must come from some other source that monitors engine speed. You should have a fan relay that reacts to the engine temp sensor. The ground signal from the trinary switch should go to the same terminal on the relay.

If I had chrome plated accessories, I'd use stainless steel braided hose for the AC lines. I used them anywhere they show.

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Thanks Dave, that seems to make sense now, pressure vs. RPM's on the clutch. And your correct the same relay is used for the trinary (fan relay). Then an additional relay is required for the EFI A/C Kickoff and then another for the Idle up. I probably will opt for the braided stainless at some point as they do look much better, but for now the black rubber will have to do.

Thanks

I was able to get a little more work completed this weekend. I took a little break away from the wiring to complete the hose runs on the AC...
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I fashioned a very simple "cradle" to hold the drier in place. It is just a piece of 6061 2-1/2" Sch 40 Pipe carved up accordingly and lightly polished. I ended up adding a screw going through the back to round tube as well...
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I pulled the fuse on the AC, since it won't be charged for a while, and taped it to my white board so I don't forget later:rolleyes:, and yes that is a dime glued above it. When I started my build I glued one to the white board to assure myself that I'd never spend our last dime on this project...it's just a friendly reminder to myself every night when I turn the lights out...
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I then jumped back into some wiring. I needed to tie the trinary switch into the Fan Relay. This was no fun, as I wished I had done this prior to mounting the fuse block, but I was able to get it done. I also needed to wire relays for the AC Shutdown and the AC Idle Up for the EFI system. Knocked both of these out as well. I still need to route and connect the wires for the fuel pump, connect the kill switch and start playing with the battery mounting a little bit. I definitely feel as though I'm on the downhill run of the wiring now, but I guess the true test will be first start. I hope to be to that point within the next month. I had jumped around a little, so I still have to install the accelerator pedal, do a preset on the TV cable for the transmission, install the e-brake and then try wrangle the wires in and get the trans tunnel fit up along with many other things that will pop-up between now and then...but we'll see how things go!

Nice work on the drier.

I had every intention of getting further along this weekend than I did, but found myself chasing rabbits...and everyone knows if you chase two rabbits, you'll catch neither one! I had a plan to finish the wiring on the fuel pump, put the battery in and install the kill switch...a fairly simple plan (and not too ambitious). Well the A/C vent hoses some how caught my eye and so I thought I could make pretty quick work of doing some initial layout...and I did, but it wasn't part of the plan...

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So after that you'd thought that I'd learned my lesson, but no. I really wanted to see if that rat nest of wires was going to be able to fit behind the trans tunnel and with how much modification. I should mention, that my intention was to leave the wire connections long and temporary (connectors), then once I start the engine for the first time and confirm that everything works as it should, I will go back, trim the wires down, solder where applicable and apply some final shielding to the wires. One additional saving grace is that I am planning to install a console that I purchased, on top of the trans tunnel that will ultimately hide a significant amount of wiring from the dash to the tunnel. Meaning I hope to have less of a rat's nest to hide and more to hide it with:rolleyes:. So I installed one side of the tunnel...

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And did have to do some mods to the flange at the firewall...

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I will ultimately be making some additional modifications to "squeeze" the tunnel in closer to the transmission to allow for a little more foot room. I am also thinking about cutting the radius out of the tunnel from the shifter back and making more of a chamfered shape as after I sat in the seat for a few minutes I noticed that my leg will be resting right on that radius'd area. I'll just have to see as we move forward. I went ahead and placed the driver side of the tunnel as well to see how it fit. Not as many mods there, but will have to make some of the same changes as mentioned previously about the passenger side, oh and also figure out how to weather proof the holes I cut near where the additional relays and fuses are as well...

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So as you can see I got very little accomplished and absolutely nothing that I had intended to. Good thing is that I am not on a time-line (well I am, but I pretty much blew that back in December) and there is always the next week!

I had originally intended to go with the Foose Legends wheels, but I have been re-thinking my choices. Here are my top picks, would love to get some feedback:confused:...

Option 1...
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Option 2...
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Option 3...
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Option 4...
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Option 5...
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Option 6...
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Option 7...
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Option 8...
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depends if you want bling or not. I prefer not, so my top pick is 1, then 7. But blinged, I'd pick 4, then 8.

AS for getting off plan, if it moves car forward all's good!

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Originally Posted by 1932

AS for getting off plan, if it moves car forward all's good!

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Spoken like someone with experience! Thanks 1932 for helping me keep it all in perspective.

One of my favorite musical books was from Earl Scruggs. On learning an instrument he recommends to push forward until you it the brick wall then lay it down and walk away for a while. I found that to be pretty insightful.

There is no question you can go out to work on one thing and get side tracked and do something totally different. And when you are stumped, walk away and think about it. But all progress is good!

Started working through a checklist this weekend to prepare for first start:eek:. Went back through the header bolts, applied threadloc and torqued to specs. Since I am also running the GPS gauges and the Sniper EFI doesn't use the speed sensor, I picked up a speedometer sensor plug for the AOD at the local Top of the Mountain parts store. They didn't have one that specifically said that it would fit the AOD, but from what I saw I thought it might and even more so after bickering back and forth with the associate on whether he should have them bring it out so I could measure it...I definitely wanted to prove him wrong! Fit nicely, so I did:p! While I was there I also picked up an O2 Sensor plug. Both of the down pipes had places for the O2 Sensor from the EFI to install, but it only requires the one, so I capped the driver side...

Speedo Sensor Plug...
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O2 Sensor Plug...
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Hope to start adding fluids in the next day or so.

Purchased this little gizmo off the internet...
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Seemed to work like a charm. Pulled a vacuum using shop air with no decay in pressure...
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Allows you to then turn the valve and pull fluid back into the system...
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I plan on getting the radiator, transmission and engine filled with fluids this weekend. Then install the battery. My intentions at this point are to try for a first start next weekend.

You are going to need about 3 gallons of anti-freeze to fill the radiator, cought me by surprise on hoe much it holds.

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Originally Posted by duff33

You are going to need about 3 gallons of anti-freeze to fill the radiator, cought me by surprise on hoe much it holds.

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Can you provide a link? This looks like it will make life easier. TY!

Duff you were right on the nose...just a sip under 3 gallons.

Here is the link AJT...

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...C+Model+W89734

Worked well and is far less expensive than some of the others.

This is what I used,

UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit bought from Amazon and it works great.

Bob