Its good to see you making great progress. Will have to come and see it once you have it driving.
Printable View
Its good to see you making great progress. Will have to come and see it once you have it driving.
I like the center console, looks great. That's one thing I would like to finish at some point.
You are going to need to remount the datalogger for 2 reasons:
1: It needs to be mounted flat (for yaw sensors)and the correct Front/Rear orientation. (You can mount upside down and switch the axis values)
2: Be careful mounting high dollar stuff with open ports facing "up". Water or other junk will get in there eventually.
Are your washers on the wrong side of the harness eye bolts?
You may want to move your sub belt mount. From that seating position, it is dangerous. I'm not sure why FFR welded those sub belt mounts there, 95% of people should not be using them with the seat orientation. Just go to the floor.
Hey you did the same mod on the center console as I did, bending that top tab 180 around under the dash. You did it better than I did, though. :)
The answer is yes with a firmware update and a cable ODBII to CAN, so going from a slow bus to a faster bus should not be a problemQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
Chad, thanks for the suggestions.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
I agree on the mounting of the Data Capture, I will loose slip yaw but have roll yaw if I mount this way, also I agree with the crap getting in the open ports, may change the mount, just not much open space.
Good catch on the washers, yes they were reversed, so changed that. I also moved the sub harness attach point per your suggestion and have gone to the steel floor plate.
I made a new face plate, as bending the original one did not work that greatQuote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
I had some time yesterday also, so I finished some minor things and corrected some of the seat issues. I also finished up the dead pedals and fitted them
Attachment 37027 Attachment 37028
I also started to rivet some of the front firewall panels, using black oversized anodized rivets
Attachment 37029
Are the dead pedals custom that you added over the top of what FFR provides? Looks different from my S.
http://i.imgur.com/pHI2276.jpg
Thanks Tony,Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
That is good news.
The published info on their website only talks about 2008+ ECU's.
http://www.autosportlabs.com/racecap...bd2-interface/
http://www.autosportlabs.com/product...-obd-ii-cable/
Bob
You make your own alu plates/panels?Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Yes when needed, not very good at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
I finished the front brake lines.
Attachment 37099 Attachment 37100 Attachment 37101 Attachment 37102
I also installed the proportioning valve, I will run a front and rear valve, I just installed the front, have to order a rear one, I used 2 1/8npt to 3/16th 90 degree adapters. Both valves will sit side by side
Attachment 37103 Attachment 37104 Attachment 37105 Attachment 37107
My EJ302 came back machine shop
Attachment 37106
The frame on the R does not angle in, and thus the dead pedals don't fit, so had to add a piece over top and thus the dead pedals are now same size bottom to topQuote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
Nice, really nice! Beautiful!!!
Zero sum day as I did not like how the front portion of the reasr brake lines were routed, so I spent the day redoing them (remove console, ebrake, etc.)
Attachment 37192 Attachment 37193
Hey Tony, looking good.
I'm focused on my wiring for the last couple weeks. Beat it into submission and starting to look less like a rats nest.
Nice job on the console, shifter and ebrake. thats next for me, so it was good to see how you did. I'm doing the longislandwrx shifter mod lowering it down into the tunnel.
I ended up re-doing my brake lines a couple times to get it right. Nothing is worse than looking at your finished car thinking you could have done a better job. Do it right the first time. Yours looks good.
Thanks, I thought that before I put fluid in the system now is the the time to do any changes as it will be worse once the fluid is in the system. My weakest point is the wiring, thus I subbed that out to iWire, I wish that I could have done that but it would take me yearsQuote:
Originally Posted by Harley818
Had time today but did not get much done as I had to decide where to put the ignition panel, I did not want to take up dash space as I will add some more gauges and they are more important to be in my line of sight than the ignition panel so I choose to put it to the left of the steering column and still in reach It will all meet tech inspection.
Attachment 37242 Attachment 37243
I remounted the Data Capture Pro today, under dash (away from weather, etc.) so I can reach it to turn logging on/off manually if I need to do so.
Attachment 37339 Attachment 37340 Attachment 37341
I also sharkskin coated and mounted (temporally) the front suspension splash panels
Attachment 37342 Attachment 37343
I found this interesting for folks buying an engine and want to make sure it is what you expect it to actually be http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthre...Identification When I purchased mine I made sure it was an EJ207v7
Attachment 37626 Attachment 37637
Good to know, thanks. You should post this in the sticky in the engine thread. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
I finished the rear proportioning valve, so brakes are done, still have to bleed them though, so I should now be able to adjust out any brake issues I may have with both valves
Attachment 37638
I added two power distribution block, 1 for constant 12v and the other for key-on 12v
Attachment 37639
I also moved the location of the remote oil filter so I can get the shortest lines, easy changing and out of the way
Attachment 37640 Attachment 37641
Coming along very nicely!
What data inputs are you feeding the capture pro?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Tony, why are you using two proportioning valves? I thought it was typically only the rear they were used on. Is it to affect overall sensitivity and responsiveness?
I like the tapping and use of the coated clamps.
True, but I'm not convinced yet on the braking system on the 818, on the Challenge car I knew ahead of time I would only need a rear, so I plumbed both a front and rear in the 818 just in case since Jim indicated that the way the 818 is set up is a little bias on the front, but I'm not as concerned with the front locking up as I am the rear. so for safety I went with both as it was easier to do this now then later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
So I will have boost, oil pressure (from a new galley plug), oil temp (from remote oil fill bung), water temp (heater bypass), RPM, along with any of the ODBII data and the outputs from RCP will be yaw (slip and roll), acceleration, GPSQuote:
Originally Posted by soaringDude
Oil pressure sender (remote), will go in the galley and replace the galley plug (galley plug with 1/8" NPT, 1/8" NPT coupler, grease gun hose, sender)
Attachment 37658
Fire system ready to install the nozzles now, AFFF 4.0L system with 6 nozzles and 2 activation pulls (one for me, one for corner workers)
Attachment 37659
I found some time over the weekend, so I attempted to bleed the brakes, well I had a leak it was in 2 cheap couplers I bout from Autozone, and as it figures was in a very hard to reach spot (in the console tunnel), so once I changed out the couplers (hours later) I had no issues, so I now have a solid brake pedal.
I also found some time to install the oil cooler and the remote oil filter, decided to install on passenger side, this is a puller fan, I also hope to catch some air from the side of the car, now to plumb up the oil cooler. So I put the side panel on to make sure I had the clearance and that I would catch the air, the mount is welded to the frame and sticks out just a tad over 3" from the side of the frame. I wanted the oil filter in a spot where I could change w/o removing the under the frame/engine panel and close to the oil cooler and engine block off plate.
Attachment 38103 Attachment 38104 Attachment 38105
I had some time this weekend, I welded in the tabs for the fire nozzles and the corner workers emergency pull.
Put 3 nozzles in the rear, one in the center to cover the front of engine, one to cover turbo, one to cover fuel lines
Attachment 38580
2 nozzles in the cockpit area, one on steering column to cover lower torso, one on side to cover upper torso
Attachment 38581
one in fuel cell area
Attachment 38582
emergency pull for corner workers
Attachment 38583
Dude, is that fire pull handle on the passengers side? Can you reach it from the drivers seat while belted in? If you're on fire you don't want to be waiting for those corner workers to show up. Never mind I see you have two pull handles......................
The oil cooler and remote oil filter are plumbed now, lines and couplings from Paragon Performance
Attachment 38672
A fellow local R builder just de-powerd my rack, what a difference in resistance, I can turn the rack gears by hand now, should get more road feedback now. Now I have to re-install the rack (I just hate putting things together, then taking them apart and then putting them back together).
Had some time over the weekend, slow but some progress, I wired up the remote kill switch (I have one near driver and one on passenger side for corner workers), also mounted the fire suppression tank, I had a slight change in plans since I went with an AFFF system I had to mount horizontal
Attachment 38783 Attachment 38784
I also figured out were the seat back brace would go and how it gets mounted, I had to move the ECU (poor planning on my part)
Attachment 38785 Attachment 38787
I mounted the inter cooler, there sure does not look like there is a lot of room as it sits pretty high, will have to see if it clears the body panels
Attachment 38786
Nice work.
That's how I feel. Slowly crawling forward at my snail's pace.
I started on the body work, I decided to use Nut Plates for the side panels and rear bumper/tail section, so this took a little extra work, taking interior apart again, but the results were great, as I have removable panels now. I looked at doing quarter turn fasteners but just not sure I could get the body tight enough.
I will most likely not go with hinges for the rear cover but figure out a way to use some pins or aviation latch.
Attachment 39007 Attachment 39008 Attachment 39009
When you say tight enough, do you mean the ability to draw misaligning parts together or pull them into place (and them be tight)? I know I have struggled a little with a few 1/4 turns, just trying to draw the two parts together.
I like the nylon and SS washer combo.
I think I will try and incorporate these pins into my hinge/fastening system where I can:
Attachment 39011
Both, so I used the nut plates to draw the body to the frame and also to draw the rear bumper to the side panels (I did not use the bolts as I wanted to avoid having to have a wrench around to take off body). So will you be using those pins instead of the FFR hood pins ? Have you installed any yet, I like them would like to see how they look and how you installed them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
Love the wiring... very clean. Is that split braid sleeving? What brand did you go with?
Exhaust is finally on
Attachment 39123 Attachment 39124 Attachment 39125