funny how fast a 3 car garage fills up with stuff.
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funny how fast a 3 car garage fills up with stuff.
No doubt. I just need to move stuff over to the other garage. The movers just piled the stuff in "mine". :)Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
I am still organizing the garage..... My lift is still sitting in the trailer, once I get the tires for the wheels, I should be set to start working on it again.
I wanted to pass on a great find on Amazon. A great tire rack for the garage. The best ~$82 I have spent. I will need to grab a few more.
http://www.amazon.com/HyLoft-01012-T...loft+tire+rack
http://i.imgur.com/yP3OKmfl.jpg
I'm packing up my wiring harness for a severe diet for a Plug-N-Play installation that a few of us 818 owners have been involved in helping design. More info on that later. Most of us want to keep the stock ECU for easier tuning capabilities (COBB).
Same tire rack as I have in my garage! :)
Me too! Great for getting them out of the way.
I have a roller!
http://i.imgur.com/oOXlInol.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/p2WNVqIl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Lt3Mjsql.jpg
Front 235/40 R17 Toyo RR (17x8 +38 with 3mm spacer for now)
Rear 255/40 R17 Toyo RR (17x9 +40 with 5mm spacer- Clears regular WRX trailing arm fine- but car still needs an alignment)
Looks good. So a rear wheel with 35 backspace would work without a spacer, right?
Should be fine. Keep in mind the whole car is not together yet. I bought higher offsets so I could space them out perfectly once the car is done.Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeTim
On the front there is a little rubbing on full lock. That is without a proper alignment or adjustment. The rub is less than my current race car which makes me feel good. The only time I go full lock is in the pits maneuvering the car around, never on the race track.
Nice to see it is ready to roll around. Great tire choice.
you're doing it wrongQuote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Attachment 27558
:cool:
Not with these tires! hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
I went opposite full lock a few minutes ago... Gave my neighbor the first ride along... I had a bit of a pucker moment, as I had concrete curbs on both sides... I pulled it out, though... Haha. Car gets loose EASY!Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
You guys are crazy. haha
Reference picture for the rear tire inside clearance.
http://i.imgur.com/LV598mOl.jpg
I like this tire comparator.
It gave me this info, which is pretty close for my BFGs.
Attachment 27600
Here's actual sizing, starting with my BFG 275s.
Tire Size Product Code Max Load Max psi Tread Depth Weight Rim Width Range Measured Rim Section Width Tread Width Overall Diameter UTQG Revs per Mile Price
275/35ZR18 87W LL 96476 1201 lbs. 51 4/32" 25 lbs. 9-11" 9.5" 10.9" 10.8" 25.4" 40 B A 819 $301
255 Toyo RRs:
Tire Size Load ID Product Code Approved Rim Width Range Weight Tread Depth (1/32") Overall Diameter (inch) Overall Width (inch) Max Load Max PSI UTQG Revs Per Mile Price 255/40ZR17 SL 255110 8.5-9.0-10.0 24 3.7 25.0 10.2 1477 51 40 C A 830 in stock
It looks like there's .7" difference in section width and .4" in overall diameter. Your ruler looks to show that there's something approaching 3/4" clearance between the trailing arm and the tire sidewall. Is that the closest point of interference? What about in front, at the bulkhead?
The reddish-pink things... The trailing arms/control arms... I guess you painted them, as you mentioned the tires clearing regular WRX trailing arms.
Hmmm. Why wouldn't my big wheels and tires fit?
Its hard to figure out unless you try it. That is what sucks. Worst case is if the tires hit the inside, you can always buy Wayne's arms which should fit fine. My trailing arms are the Subaru Performance Models. They are OEM, just upgraded with spherical bearings- along with the other lateral link. No idea why they paint them "Cherry Blossom Red"...lol Must be a Subie thing. I didn't trust "Ebay" models/parts on a race car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
I measured from the area that was the closest to rubbing. Don't worry about the bulkhead or the front. I may try the 275 Toyo on my other set of rims later.
Since I finally received the wheels, I was able to finish up the transmission. The Legacy GT trans is all buttoned up, Rori's Shift Arm & bracket cant come soon enough. Shiny! No rattle can here-
http://i.imgur.com/1z5gTp3l.jpg
I figured I would share this tip if you wanted cockpit control of the supplied brake bias valve. All you need to do is order the Wilwood brake bias adjuster cable (Amazon, Ebay, Summit, Jegs).
Then use a propane torch to heat up the existing black knob on the supplied valve. Get it hot enough to break the bond of the glue. (Try not to get the housing too hot, you do not want to damage any seals).
Then you can screw on the adjusting cable and mount it somewhere in the cockpit. Once you get it in a place you like, make sure to bond the adjuster nut to the valve (I'm thinking red locktite)
http://i.imgur.com/C83WXcNl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ldeUltxl.jpg
Hi Chad
Good tip.
Is there a reason not to just run the lines into the cockpit and mount the valve under the dash?
Bob
You totally could do that. I had the adjustment cable already. But if you wanted to add it after the fact you could. The adjustment cable is nice, it has detent feedback. But either way it will work just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
Having never driven a car with an adjustable brake bias, is it something you would adjust often? I know it isn't for the street, but what about on track?
You don't tinker with it all that much once you get it set right. A few clicks here and there. During a race you can fine tune due to weather, temp, tires, fuel load going down, etc. Its nice to have it in reach while racing. Personally, kinda a waste on a street car.
I also wanted to add that is alot easier to "plumb" the cable and knob to the cockpit, than the whole brake bias proportional valve.
Great tip, i'll be picking one of these up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Awesome
cockpit adjustable, just like my shifter kart!
I need some input from some Subi guys-
Anything wrong with mounting the Cobb intake here without the post MAF silicon hose?
http://i.imgur.com/fIXszIJl.jpg
Chad, I'm not an expert in this area. IE, I don't know how little you can get away with. I know you need some number of inches of undisturbed air so the MAF sensor can get an accurate reading. I think you are pushing your luck.
My 3" tube has 12" from the filter to the MAF but there is about a 15 degree bend four inches before the MAF sensor.
An extended section of straight before and after the MAF is important for a blow through setup, not as important for a draw through. I wouldn't be concerned about your configuration.
I got my clutch line plumbed today. I bought Mikes SS line kit. The Slave is a B%^$& to bleed when fully dry. I have never had bleeding fight me so much. I finally just gave up until I get some help from a buddy.
Edit: I finally bribed my wife to climb into the 818R- Clutch all bled and perfect now.
Picture of Mike's SS clutch line kit installed. Everything you need in one package.
http://i.imgur.com/4Lz1KAXl.jpg?1
you my friend need a vacuum bleeder.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0678&ppt=C0067
I finally got the lift situated in the new garage. Now things will be progressing faster. I'm looking at new cabinets to order so I can organize the garage better.
I shipped off my harness to IWire. Woot! I did not want to deal with the electrical, and Brian there has been great in asking for our help in designing it for the 818R. I prefer being able to use the Cobb Accessport for tuning. Plus, there are tons of places close that will tune it.
Checklist left-
1. Need to finish some brake lines.
2. Need to run the coolant lines (most likely going with the aftermarket hard lines)
3. Order Fuel Safe cell.
4. Install harness when I get it back and start the baby up!
http://i.imgur.com/mPhkF3Gl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OM006N0l.jpg
Looking good! You need a few more cars in the garage ! Brian has finished my harness and should have it back this week as I should have the engine in soon and can fire that thing up and make sure all works well and then continue the build. Still stuck finishing suspension as the Konis are still back ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Details on the harness work being done? I'm not crazy about the thought of dieting my harness. I've got an 02 wrx donor and will be usung cobbs ap as well.
I see red shocks on the car so I am confused about you saying you are waiting on the Konis. I thought the reds are the high-end Koni FFR offers.
Nice lift. I just ordered one. Wife's orders...
Brian from iWire should be posting soon as he just finished my harness and he has pictures of what he has done, really nice work, but he will customize to your needs.Quote:
Originally Posted by metros
Chad - pardon me if this has been discussed previously, but I'm curious about the platforms and ramps you are using, as pictured in the photo of your lift. I have a lift similar to yours. The runners/platforms which elevate the car and allow clearance to exit the lift appear to be 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 lumber stacked and then covered with carpet. Is that correct? What brand are the ramps and where did you find them?
Thanks,
Bill
Thanks for the info Tony. If his pricing for the diet is in the ballpark of his harness merging services (or less would be ok) then I'm 100% interested.
I'm not waiting- I have all my stuff (except front race splitter- waiting for the new version). I think you saw Tony's post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
Bill- Those are 2x10's covered with outdoor carpet (Staple gunned on). If I were going to do it again, I would use 2x12's. Those black ramps came from an old set of drive up ramps (Amazon should have them or Groits). You might be able to find them separately.
Nice! I guess the test track is opening soon.
Thanks, Chad
Went through your whole thread! Great build.
What rear suspension parts and trailing arms are you using?