Einstein's Mark V Roadster Build

More fun in the unexplored territory of jamming a Godzilla in a roadster. In an attempt to line up the driveshaft, I made a spacer from a piece of 3/4"aluminum I had in the scrap metal bin. By luck, it seems to be very close to perfect. Now to get everything torqued down and on to the next thing.

Attachment 227018Attachment 227019

Getting the driveshaft in was one of those things where you try it 50 times and then, for some unexplained reason, suddenly it drops right in lol.

Well....I wanted a challenging project because "it will be fun". I am really having "fun" now. Getting the giant Godzilla engine in was not that big a deal. Fabricating spacers to align the driveshaft was ok. Now I am on to installing the headers. The stainless steel headers from FFR are beautiful. What bolts to use? Stage 8 and ARP don't make header bolts for the Godzilla. Nobody makes the aftermarket header gaskets people like so much on the forum for the Godzilla. I ended up getting high-quality SS M10 1.25 bolts from McMaster Carr and SS Nord-Lok lock washers (we have used these before on aircraft). I ordered OEM gaskets from Ford Performance, which came with OEM studs. There was no way to use studs because you could never get the headers on.

Getting the driver's side header on was one of the hardest projects I have ever had. I bruised the bone in my wrist trying to get the bolts started. I finally got it installed with lots of zinc high-temp anti-seize on the SS bolts going into the aluminum heads. In my football days, I used to put black on my face under my eyes to cut glare. By the end of the game, despite wearing a full facemask helmet the whole time, I always had it spread everywhere. I do the same thing with anti-seize. It gets on stuff I didn't even touch!

Now on to the passenger side header. The driver's side was super difficult, but the passenger side is impossible! There was no way to even get the header in there without removing the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube was trapped between the block and the engine mount. I managed to get it out and put the header in place, but there would be absolutely no way to get it back in. As for putting in the header bolts ...NFW!

So what now? I called FFR and got them to send me a new inner passenger footbox panel. I plan to cut a big hatch in that panel, which will allow me access to the header bolts, dip stick tube, and will make accessing the starter easier. I will cut the hatch cover from the new panel with an overlap and use sheet metal screws with star washers. Then I will put the hoist back on the engine and raise it as I loosen the engine mount bolts from the block. That should allow me to get the dipstick tube back in. Then I can torque down the header and engine mounts. I will leave the hatch off until after the go-kart stage.

My great plan of mounting the brake reservoirs before I even had the engine did not go well. There is no way they will fit where i had them. i ordered a Tilton reservoir and will mount it just where Edward B did. I know...I should have listened to him.

I am writing this now, before I do all of this, in case any of you have a better idea. I can't think of anything unless you have a mechanically inclined spider monkey.

I will post pics when I figure out why they won't post

I had the same issue with my Roush engine. The oil dipstick was interfering with the headers, but it was on the driver's side. Total PITA. I had to replace with a flexible dipstick then put it around the back of the header with a fabricated bracket as it wouldn't fit in-between. I was able to reinsert from underneath. You have even less space so I feel your pain but it will be worth it.

If you can't navigate the headers and dipstick from underneath, I'd say the footbox hole sounds interesting.

I have a 5 year-old you could borrow. Small hands...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aleinsteingenius

Well....I wanted a challenging project because "it will be fun". I am really having "fun" now. Getting the giant Godzilla engine in was not that big a deal. Fabricating spacers to align the driveshaft was ok. Now I am on to installing the headers. The stainless steel headers from FFR are beautiful. What bolts to use? Stage 8 and ARP don't make header bolts for the Godzilla. Nobody makes the aftermarket header gaskets people like so much on the forum for the Godzilla. I ended up getting high-quality SS M10 1.25 bolts from McMaster Carr and SS Nord-Lok lock washers (we have used these before on aircraft). I ordered OEM gaskets from Ford Performance, which came with OEM studs. There was no way to use studs because you could never get the headers on.

Getting the driver's side header on was one of the hardest projects I have ever had. I bruised the bone in my wrist trying to get the bolts started. I finally got it installed with lots of zinc high-temp anti-seize on the SS bolts going into the aluminum heads. In my football days, I used to put black on my face under my eyes to cut glare. By the end of the game, despite wearing a full facemask helmet the whole time, I always had it spread everywhere. I do the same thing with anti-seize. It gets on stuff I didn't even touch!

Now on to the passenger side header. The driver's side was super difficult, but the passenger side is impossible! There was no way to even get the header in there without removing the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube was trapped between the block and the engine mount. I managed to get it out and put the header in place, but there would be absolutely no way to get it back in. As for putting in the header bolts ...NFW!

So what now? I called FFR and got them to send me a new inner passenger footbox panel. I plan to cut a big hatch in that panel, which will allow me access to the header bolts, dip stick tube, and will make accessing the starter easier. I will cut the hatch cover from the new panel with an overlap and use sheet metal screws with star washers. Then I will put the hoist back on the engine and raise it as I loosen the engine mount bolts from the block. That should allow me to get the dipstick tube back in. Then I can torque down the header and engine mounts. I will leave the hatch off until after the go-kart stage.

My great plan of mounting the brake reservoirs before I even had the engine did not go well. There is no way they will fit where i had them. i ordered a Tilton reservoir and will mount it just where Edward B did. I know...I should have listened to him.

I am writing this now, before I do all of this, in case any of you have a better idea. I can't think of anything unless you have a mechanically inclined spider monkey.

I will post pics when I figure out why they won't post

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"Build a car", "it will be fun" said no one ever...:rolleyes:

I worked in a wooden boat restoration shop when I was in college. We used a lot of Sikaflex 241 which must be chemically related to anti-sieze in another universe. We nicknamed it "dogetaround". If you weren't careful you'd have it in your hair, under your shoe and somehow between two ones in your wallet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aleinsteingenius

I do the same thing with anti-seize. It gets on stuff I didn't even touch!

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Like this?

Attachment 227685

I have done a lot of yacht restoration. I know Sikaflex well. It's even harder to clean up than anti-seize

FWIW, there is a MkIII with a Godzilla currently on BAT bid up to $110,000 with 4 days left! Good investment, me thinks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JimStone

FWIW, there is a MkIII with a Godzilla currently on BAT bid up to $110,000 with 4 days left! Good investment, me thinks

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You realize that's not a FFR, right?

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

You realize that's not a FFR, right?

Jeff

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My bad!!!

I am finding that while a Godzilla will technically fit in a MkV, there are a lot of issues. You have to do a lot of engineering to get everything hooked up properly. i will update this thread with pictures when I can.