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That's what I did, brackets mount to a piece of angle that mounts to the bottom of the frame, I don't have a great picture though. The tops of the reservoirs sit about an inch above the top of the frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1668797713
Thanks - looks great.Quote:
Originally Posted by slarson
I finally finished my spring lawn renovation project which took almost a month and aged me by about two decades but I am recovered and diving back into my build. I have been doing a lot of little bits and pieces like the post title says. Mainly test fitting, drilling holes, shopping and trying to think 15 steps ahead. I have dropped off a couple of my engine compartment panels for some test runs on the powder coat and whether or not the JB Weld high temp will work. I should be picking those up this coming Friday or Monday. All of my engine panels are trimmed and drilled so once I figure out my color and hole repair, I will drop them off for finishing.
I have also worked out my fuel arrangement. I opted to place my regulator by the fuel tank to eliminate a redundant return line up to the engine compartment and reduce clutter (there's a lot of it with the Coyote). I am using Earl's Vapor Guard fittings and hoses from the pump to the regulator and back and then 3/8" stainless through the tunnel to the intake. I cut the TrickFlow bracket to fit how I wanted it to fit, redrilled it, and mounted it with nutserts. I will also install my pressure gauge for first start and remove once I have the fuel delivery dialed in. The gauge installs where you can see the tape wrapped plug.
I also laid out the rear light and sender harness. It needs almost 2' removed to fit correctly so doing some loom surgery as I type this.
Attachment 214137
In between doing this work I was doing some tariff avoidance moves and this arrived a couple of days ago:
Attachment 214138
I also installed the drop trunk assembly from Snakebite Motorworks. This is really a quality piece and fit well. I used my track saw to cut the opening in the hatch floor panel.
Attachment 214139
Once that was test fit, I reinstalled the floor panels and drilled everything for eventual final install.
Attachment 214140
My latest activity is to sort out the various wiring harnesses. I unpacked the RF kit and hung it up to dry and also laid out the Ford Performance Power Block just to see what I was getting myself into. I am thinking some or most of this is going to get reworked once I have a better idea of who's on first and where everything wants to go, needs to go and should go.
Attachment 214143
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And last but not least I test fit and sealed up the A/C evaporator as outlined in the 125 page instruction addendum. I used my interior trim caulking technique to seal the box up. I will aslo be sealing the three nutsert holes in the case to get it as leak proof as I can. Based on all the feedback of current owners and builders, anything we can do to improved the efficiency will be beneficial.
Attachment 214142
Attachment 214145
All in all, I'm pretty happy with my progress so far. I need to finish drilling the cockpit panels to wrap up my drilling, trimming, and cleco-ing. For the next couple of weeks, I plan on focusing on wiring layout and routing, as I should have all of my remaining hardware to determine where I want everything to go. I am not planning on completely rebuilding any of the main harnesses, but I am willing to unwrap, shorten, rewrap, etc. as needed. We'll see.
Looking good! When does the engine arrive?
Summit Racing says Monday the 26th.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Looks amazing, good job.
I've read those A/C instructions at least 3 times and somehow I missed that line about applying silicone.
So thanks for pointing that out
"I finally finished my spring lawn renovation project which took almost a month and aged me by about two decades"
LOL- I know the feeling!! Build looking good Tim!
It's right in the beginning and I overlooked it as well the first time I reviewed them. That evaporator is so small any reduction in efficiency is going to tell. The nutserts in the sides go all the way through into the case and will do a good job of keeping the upper foot box cool if they aren't sealed up...:pQuote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
I missed that completely :(Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
This was a bit of chore but I got it in. It didn't really fit like the instructions show but I think close enough. I used 2 nutserts and tapped the frame for the third mounting point. I couldn't really position it any different than I ended up with and have the PS drain nipple clear the frame.
While I had every intention of mounting my heater valve on top of the panel (above the evaporator) I realized I could mount it underneath with two short hoses and the bibs of the other two exiting the sheet metal. I would forgo the bulkhead connector altogether and simply use form fitting grommets. Does anyone see any disadvantage to this? Other than it's a little crowded.
Excuse my fat hand blocking most of the second picture but that's about where I would put it so the short hoses would have a slight bend in them to allow the bibs to exit square to the sheet metal.
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I just realized I had forgotten the aluminum panel that goes on the inboard side of the PS footbox angles inward from the top frame rail. I believe that will conflict with the valve so this may be a non-starter. My evaporator may have ended up further to the driver's side than it should be but I couldn't see how else it would go and still be able to use the outboard drain nipple.
It worked on mine. Excuse the wires, I haven't dressed anything in yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1748026538
Your evaporator might me a little farther right than mine though.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1748026538
Thanks for the pictures. I think our boxes are in very similar positions. I haven't had a chance to dig into it today but hopefully will have some time tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by slarson
I guess it's time to quit fiddling around and get to work:
Attachment 214378
Oh boy!!
Just about the coolest thing that comes in a cardboard box
I know right? Maybe a close tie with a shoe box full of $100's but I've never stumbled on one of those.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Keep up the good progress, Tim. That way you'll have all the Gen 4 bugs worked out by the time I get to dropping in mine. :p
I'm on it!Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
If that's a T56, stick a band clamp, or wrap some safety wire around the shifter boot base to prevent it leaking transmission fluid. Seems like it's a common issue. I only discovered this after transmission fluid was pooling on my rear transmission mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Disregard if that is NOT a T56 ;)
mark
Thanks Mark. It is a T-56. Apparently when you rotate the shifter to the forward position it sits directly above the reverse gear which slings oil almost directly up the boot. Here is a pretty interesting thread which dives into some detail:Quote:
Originally Posted by lewma
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...fter-leak.html
It's like Christmas in May! Even more so when you drop it in.
Well, it looks like my elegant solution to the DBW conflict may not be as simple as I thought. I had to cut and reweld the triangular bracket for the pedal assembly as mine from FF did not line up. Some have used washers to nudge it out from the frame rail but mine wouldn't line up regardless. Finally welded it this morning and was excited to test fit. As you can surmise, test fit of bracket, excellent. Interference of throttle pedal ear with brake pedal, significant. Here are a couple of pictures:
Attachment 214942
Attachment 214943
What's odd about this entire situation is I only moved the acc pedal 1/2". I would think the brake pedal would still travel forward enough to hit the ear in the stock position. Maybe not. I have no practical experience with how the pedals hang, i.e. forward of plumb, plumb or rearwards of plumb and I also am not sure how much the brake pedal travels in its arc during braking.
I think the easy solution is to simply cut the ear off and call it good. It will still leave the steel reinforced center section in place but definitely weakens the overall structure. It also looks like there will be about a 1/32nd gap between the acc pedal and the brake arm which doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies either.
I can't really shift the hanger assembly as it doesn't want to move laterally. If I am missing something obvious, please let me know.
It looks like they cut those ears off per the manual.Attachment 214954
If that's in there then I definitely missed it. Which is interesting because I read that pretty thoroughly. Thanks Brent.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Edit: I just looked at the installation instructions and although they show they picture you posted above (at the end of acc pedal modification/installation) I don't see where they say to cut that ear off. Either way, it's coming off.
Times 2 on trimming that ear. I'm starting that next. Had to trim on my Roadster build. Here's a view of it, but with my own bracket. The supplied F5 accel pedal bracket wouldn't provide the clearances for the DBW connector at the top, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1617505480
Thanks Chris. I think I can make the existing bracket work if I use my spacers. I want to maintain the steel sleeves if at all possible so I have something besides plastic to through bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
I have been working on 5 or 6 different items over the last couple of weeks. I will kind of break them into the different parts:
Wrapped up the accelerator pedal challenge with some help from the forum. Didn't notice the picture in the manual that shows the top left ear cut off which is the main offender of the brake pedal in the repositioned position. Good to go now. I swapped out my temporary 1/2" plastic spacers with aluminum and clamped it down for final install.
Also spent a couple of days fitting and drilling all the cockpit aluminum. Driver's side finished up:
Attachment 215043
I also tried out my tubing straightener with the 3/8" stainless. It worked pretty well:
Attachment 215044
And last but not least I ordered my gauges. I believe when I laid out my build plan I indicated I really wanted to give a nod to early Series 1 and 2 XKE's and their interiors. I wanted to use original Smiths Series 1 gauges but the challenges were somewhat overwhelming. Very expensive, speedometer was analog although I like the look but it would require a $500 converter and the available tachometers only revved to 6K. All not insurmountable but becoming more and more complicated and fiddly the deeper I dug into it.
And then Speedhut to the rescue. I reached out to Rachel with whom I have worked before and inquired about making custom gauges to mimic the original Smiths. Short answer is yes and after several back and forth with proofs, the gauges were approved and should arrive in the next 2 weeks. Here is one of the early proofs:
Attachment 215042
Really looking forward to see these in hand.
Those gauges are going to be really neat. Love the Daytona script. I wish I had thought of that.
What color bezel and back lighting are you going with?
I love Speedhut. Great products and their customer service is just so good.
The bezels are their stealth black, back lighting is vintage white and the blade (needle) is white. I tried to emulate the original Smith gauges as much as they could accommodate. Rachel is super easy to work with and I like the uniform wiring and systematic approach they use with their gauges. I did deviate from most and went with a straight VSS speedometer rather than a GPS.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Those look really nice!
Looking good Tim
Just in case anyone was wondering, these are the majority of the under hood pieces for the Coupe. Just dropped these off to the powder coater today.
Attachment 215226
When are you going to take that engine out of the box? Gen 4?
Gauges are sick
Engine is uncrated, installing casters on the support bracket tomorrow. It's a Gen4X.
Just got a notice today my gauges shipped and will be here Tuesday. I'm really looking forward to seeing them "live". I pretty much have everything to complete my car at this point so time to get to work.
I just thought I would close the loop on the accelerator pedal situation. I ground down the upper corner, trimmed the left ear back as much as I could and installed 1/2" metal spacers. I also bonded a third spacer in a triangular pattern to support the backside. Seems like much ado about nothing at this point but I think it's good to go.
In retrospect, I wouldn't cut the spacers off or the complete ear on the right side of the pedal. I believe the instructions are wrong (maybe predating the space frame) and shouldn't be followed but I will leave it to others to determine if this is correct. Here are a couple of pictures of the finished product:
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Thanks for the update, Tim. I also had to shave some of the pedal housing to clear the steering shaft. I was able to get clearance for the DBW connector without spacers. I wonder if that's just a difference between your chassis and mine? It's extremely tight in there, so wouldn't take much chassis variation. I will say removing the pillow block spacers gives quite a bit more clearance away from the steering shaft for the DBW connector and pedal housing. Though there's a tradeoff in steering wheel height. I'll try to show when I update my thread later today or tomorrow.
Coupe or Roadster, Coyote makes for tight quarters.
While waiting for things to come back from the powder coater I have been doing some smaller items that seem to consume a lot of time. I finally got the pedal box formally installed. I had to cut and weld the triangular bracket as it didn't fit from FF. I am an amateur welder at best but it turned out OK. I also had to grind a small scallop in the side of the brake pedal to ensure clearance with the accelerator pedal. I also installed the fuse box support.
Attachment 215811
I installed the horns using the brackets from Snakebite. Pretty clean installation. You need to make sure you mount them high enough to ensure the horns clear the sway bar.
Attachment 215813
I received my gauges last week and am pretty happy with how they turned out. This is the second time I have ordered custom gauges from Speedhut and they don't disappoint. Couple of glamour shots of the tach and speedo.
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And on an oddball note, I was doing some preassembly of the door frames to measure/test the door poppers I am planning on using. Interesting enough, one of my door latches was missing threads on the middle hole. I went ahead and tapped it so no great obstacle but a little odd none the less.
Attachment 215817
Hoping to pick up my engine bay panels tomorrow which will really allow me to move some of these piles forward.