Tesla Powered 33 Hot Rod

Good ol' McMaster-Carr and their next day delivery. Bottom box panels all installed. It needed 1/4" spacer rails to clear the metal pans under the seats with a little extra space but it's still tucked up pretty tight. You probably won't even see them when the body is on.

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Looks like the 80/20 rails will be here Saturday so I should be able to get the three boxes all assembled this weekend. There are three pieces on the front box that will need TIG welding so once the front box is together and I decide on the final front to back placement, I'll take it back over to the chassis shop for them to weld.

Main battery pack rear panel mounting holes drilled. The alignment came out perfect - whew. I made a little tool to square/center the holes since they go through the 1.5" square tube. Can't have those at an angle.

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The main battery box is assembled and set in place. Everything fits perfectly! It's really cool to see it for real having stared at the CAD file for so many hours. I need to machine some Delrin bushings to go between the firewall that will lock the front/back position in place, and then finish the front chassis mount bracket design. Time order the HV components and start working out how everything will connect.

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Originally Posted by BradC

The main battery box is assembled and set in place. Everything fits perfectly! It's really cool to see it for real having stared at the CAD file for so many hours. I need to machine some Delrin bushings to go between the firewall that will lock the front/back position in place, and then finish the front chassis mount bracket design. Time order the HV components and start working out how everything will connect.

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Your engineering skills continue to impress the heck out of me. I'm really enjoying watching this move along. Have you considered offering your design to FFR? I suspect that at some point, they would benefit from offering EV versions of their kits.

Thank you!!

A few people at FFR know I’m doing this so if they’re interested and want to leverage my design I’d be open to working with them. I’ll let them contact me if so though. They probably want to wait it out and make sure it doesn’t end up being a total train wreck first. Haha.

Both lower boxes all built up. I think I'll start building the car back up with suspension, motor, etc. and move my lift back over. It'll be better to have everything in place as I start routing the HV system.

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That is looking so awsome. Your really coming along. Have you got the actual batteries yet? Do you have the packs made up to fit your boxes or do you do it yourself. Lots of wiring to come. What voltage are you going to run at? What kind of range do you expect to get.

Yes I have the batteries already, made by LG Chem. The image below is two packs sitting in the lower box. There will be 18 packs in the front and 8 in the two lower boxes. Voltage at full charge will be just over 380V. As far as range, I've had a few talks with EV West and their estimate is about 140-150 miles under normal driving, which is fine for a weekend fun car. In the 5 years I had my 68 Camaro I think I drove it over 100 miles in one day maybe twice.

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And yes - LOTS of wiring to come. The 2/0 gauge HV system isn't all that complicated but the BMS system will be tedious. Each pack has two 4 wire connections so there are 416 (208 both sides) small connectors there that I need to crimp and route to the BMS controllers. Then there are several harnesses from the controller to the rest of the system - and the standard 12V system.

Curious, how much charge do the batteries ship with? I assume limited (10-20%) due to shipping restriction but thought I'd ask.

Jim

I think it's about 30%. They are lithium ion.

Back to sort of looking like a car again. This time it's not all hand tight though - suspension and steering is all snug and somewhat sort of aligned. I'm happy with the Cerakote on the front suspension. I'll be doing the rear links the same at some point, and a bunch of other parts I haven't decided on yet. That stuff is impressive. I coated all the threaded areas and they don't bind at all. If anything it makes them engage smoother. It doesn't get marked up much with greasy hands and it wipes clean super easy if it does. We scratched a sample scrap piece with a key and it's really hard to leave a permanent scratch.

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Gonna do some cleaning up empty boxes and reorganizing parts next so I can move my lift back over and get the car on it. I think after that I'm going to route the brake lines and get them functional while I'm waiting for the HV system wiring parts. I placed the order yesterday.

I got everything moved around and the car up on the lift. Much better.

Brake pedal assembly is in and I have the Tesla brake switch adapted (you have to use that one with the EV Controls controller). Same with the throttle pedal, it has to be the Tesla. I designed a mount for the pedal and sent the order in to have the parts made. It's two bent steel brackets that will allow for adjustability of the pedal location, so I had to send them out.

Front brake lines are all done and the first section of the rear is routed. The front was fairly easy since everything is standard. I changed it a little from the FFR manual but al least all the parts I had fit up. The rear Tesla brake lines are a different thread though and of course the suspension is custom, so I'll need to figure out the routing and find adapters. I might run over to the Tesla dismantlers and see if I can get the splitter block and lines. We'll see...

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Looking good Brad! I put my engine only in today so I could figure out where to run the fuel and evap lines to.

Nice - I saw your post on it. There are a few different LS3 thermostat housings out there - hopefully you find the right one easy. Someone has to have dealt with that before in this car.

New axles showed up today. They look great. Need to Cerakote them and then I can put the CVs back together.

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Go figure - AutoZone had the 10mm fittings for the Tesla brake lines! I had to stop with the rear routing though because the stock rear flex lines are too short to route anywhere useful. Looks like the front lines have the same fittings and they seem to be about the right length. I'll confirm the length and look around for some nicer replacements.

I have all the hard lines installed for the rear brakes. I found new longer flex lines for the rear on Summit that have the 10mm banjo nut the Tesla calipers use and 3/8-24 inverted flare on the other end. Should have them Thursday and that will button up the brake lines. Then the fun can start finding all the inevitable leaks. Ha..

I was trying to figure out how to enclose the massive fuses that need to go in the HV line. I'm using one in between each of the lower battery boxes so it also gives me an easy disconnect point if I ever need to remove them. I couldn't find a tight fitting fuse enclosure and space was sort of limited on the bottom, so I had to design and 3D print my own. This uses 1/4" thick brackets made of G10 holding the fuse that will bolt to the transmission cross member brackets, so it will be completely electrically isolated. I'll make a cross bracket once they are installed to add some support but I think this will work. It still leaves free space along the bottom center for the coolant and wiring that needs to run from front to back.

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This is the first half done with the G10 brackets machined. I did it separate just to fit check first. The other half is printing now and if all fits well I'll do the other two parts in one shot.

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This sparky says "Another awesome piece of work"!

With a career in high voltage / current DC electrical, this is one of the cooler solutions to a problem I have seen. Unfortunately this means I will now have to go buy and learn how to use a 3D printer.

Thanks for all the updates and photos, really appreciate it.

Cheers,

Nigel

Wait! You're able to 3D print G10 now? Damn I feel old.
You kids sure have it soft now days!

Keith HR #894

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Originally Posted by Nigel Allen

This sparky says "Another awesome piece of work"!

With a career in high voltage / current DC electrical, this is one of the cooler solutions to a problem I have seen. Unfortunately this means I will now have to go buy and learn how to use a 3D printer.

Thanks for all the updates and photos, really appreciate it.

Cheers,

Nigel

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Whew - glad to hear a pro say I haven’t done something stupid. I promised my wife I would do my best not to burn the house down with this project. Thanks for the feedback!

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Originally Posted by progmgr1

Wait! You're able to 3D print G10 now? Damn I feel old.
You kids sure have it soft now days!

Keith HR #894

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No, the G10 was cnc machined. The black printed part is a fiber reinforced nylon. I’m able to use our printer at work when it’s open and I just buy the material. Not a bad deal. It’s a $90k machine so a bit out of my price range. Although there are some really good hobby grade ones out now.

I got the charger brackets today from SendCutSend. They fit perfect.

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One step forward with the charger - one back with the fuse holder. It didn't fit, ugh. When I measured the opening I wanted it to slot in to I didn't see some chassis welds back in farther, so it was too tall. I changed the design and it's reprinting right now.

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Originally Posted by BradC

I got the charger brackets today from SendCutSend. They fit perfect.

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One step forward with the charger - one back with the fuse holder. It didn't fit, ugh. When I measured the opening I wanted it to slot in to I didn't see some chassis welds back in farther, so it was too tall. I changed the design and it's reprinting right now.

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Solidworks, sendcutsend, and a 3D printer really help with a project like this! Tools change with the times.

Yeah, for sure. I couldn’t do this project without those toys!

The new technology is really amazing. I was repairing a metal fresh air vent inlet box that was rusted through in one area on my 55 F100 the other night and my 18 year old son asked what I was doing so we talked about it and he asked if he could take some measurements of the box and a few pics. I thought it was odd but I said sure.

An hour later he came out to the garage and had a 3D rendering of the box to the exact dimensions which he is going to take into his work place and print it out. He said the material will be as strong as the metal one. It will cost me I think he said like $20-30 in material (I assume the print material).

If it turns out, it will save me a few hours of cutting out the rotted section of the old box, shaping a new piece, welding it, grinding, and painting it. The best part is it will look original but never rust out again. Amazing technology.

Jim

I know electric is not everybody's thing but watching this thread is a glimpse into the future of hot rodding. Well done BradC!

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Originally Posted by 33fromSD

The new technology is really amazing. I was repairing a metal fresh air vent inlet box that was rusted through in one area on my 55 F100 the other night and my 18 year old son asked what I was doing so we talked about it and he asked if he could take some measurements of the box and a few pics. I thought it was odd but I said sure.

An hour later he came out to the garage and had a 3D rendering of the box to the exact dimensions which he is going to take into his work place and print it out. He said the material will be as strong as the metal one. It will cost me I think he said like $20-30 in material (I assume the print material).

If it turns out, it will save me a few hours of cutting out the rotted section of the old box, shaping a new piece, welding it, grinding, and painting it. The best part is it will look original but never rust out again. Amazing technology.

Jim

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That's really cool. I love seeing younger kids learning how to do things like that. I have two teenage daughters who aren't interested in car projects - but I'm still holding out hope for them to bring home boys who are. So far there's only been one who thought my Camaro was cooler than video games, but he didn't last long for other reasons. Ha. Still plenty of time.

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Originally Posted by svassh

I know electric is not everybody's thing but watching this thread is a glimpse into the future of hot rodding. Well done BradC!

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Yep, definitely true. I hope this is just an addition to and never a replacement for anything else in the hot rod world. I've had a few eye rolls shot my way at cars and coffee for sure but this project is just about the challenge and new learning opportunity in a hobby I enjoy - not anything political. Too bad that always seems to get in the mix though. Such is life...

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Originally Posted by BradC

I've had a few eye rolls shot my way at cars and coffee for sure but....

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I get that once in awhile too, because it's a "kit car"....

Steve

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Originally Posted by FF33rod

I get that once in awhile too, because it's a "kit car"....

Steve

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Haha. To each their own but I'll take built over bought any day!

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Originally Posted by peterh226

Solidworks, sendcutsend, and a 3D printer really help with a project like this! Tools change with the times.

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Hehe... those are my go to tools for every project!

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Originally Posted by BradC

That's really cool. I love seeing younger kids learning how to do things like that. I have two teenage daughters who aren't interested in car projects - but I'm still holding out hope for them to bring home boys who are. So far there's only been one who thought my Camaro was cooler than video games, but he didn't last long for other reasons. Ha. Still plenty of time.

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This son is more techy than a gear head, he just figured he could help with the part I was working on. Now my 15 year daughter is 100% gear head. Her date got a flat tire the other night and she ended up changing it cause he had no clue how too. So damn cool!! She's helped me with a couple restorations over the years, knows her way around cars.

Jim

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Originally Posted by BradC

Haha. To each their own but I'll take built over bought any day!

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Amen to dat

FFR shorted me the back panel that goes under the fuel tank. Not a big deal but I was waiting on it to use as a template for the thicker panel that I need to support the HV stuff. I hit a stopping point on that where I'd like to have it done now, so I just made my own. Good to get back to basics and use the cardboard template and hand cut metal method. This panel would have been too expensive to have made and it's a very simple shape - only $40 for a scrap piece from the local metal supply shop.

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I had been thinking about how to install and remove the lower battery boxes once they are too heavy to hold in place one handed. For safety I need the car on the lift with good bottom access for the HV connections vs. on the ground with jack stands. But my lift rail jack wouldn't work well. A low rise hydraulic transmission jack would probably work but they are expensive and bulky to store when I only need it now and then. I found this pipe stand with wheels on Amazon and it hits the mark I think. I had to add a thrust bearing to the screw handle because it wasn't designed to adjust under load but that did the trick and this should work fine. I'll weld a bigger flat plate to to the V for stability but problem solved for under $150, and it folds up for storage.

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I've been spending time working out the wiring details. I had to make an Excel map for the BMS to keep track of everything and as a guide for creating the actual wiring and BMS assignments. I have the contact box started and I've decided on the locations for the main components. I designed a panel for the back side of the firewall to hold the power steering controller, BMS, and the motor controller. Sent that out to SCS of course - I'm getting spoiled with that place!

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I'm supposed to get the last part (that I forgot to order before) for the front battery box tomorrow. It's way too hot this week - 114 degrees today - but supposed to cool down next week. I'll find some time then to load the car up and take it over to the chassis shop for TIG welding the front battery box parts. Then it comes apart for Cerakote. After that I can install the batteries for good and start on the BMS wiring.

I’ve been mindlessly crimping micro tiny BMS connectors the last two days. So not much interesting to report on that. Getting there though. I have almost half of the leads done. So tedious…

I did get the firewall panel today so that was a nice distraction. It holds the power steering controller, BMS, and motor controller.

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Finally got time today to take the car over to the shop for TIG welding on the main battery box. Now I can tear it apart and work on the Cerakote. It takes a lot of media blast prep, cleaning, and 5 days to cure so it'll be a few weeks before I get it all back together. But, when it's done I'll be installing the batteries which will be a big step.

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With the front box out I was finally able to fit check the transmission tunnel patch I designed and had made a couple of weeks ago. The bend aligns perfect with the firewall. Still need to drill holes and bolt it around the perimeter but it all lines up well.

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And for almost a full week of spare time work - here's what I have to show for it. Did I mention before this is tedious?? I still have 4 more to go and then I have to make 40 thermocouples, attach them to the batteries, and make the harnesses. I have to admit I'm not enjoying this part as much. But it's necessary so no way around it.

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Anyone complaining on wiring has got nothing on you. Crimp on!

Thanks for posting - I was afraid you had forgotten about us here on the Forum.

Just curious: are you using thermocouples or thermistors?

Keith HR #894

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Originally Posted by Mastertech5

Anyone complaining on wiring has got nothing on you. Crimp on!

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I think complaining about wiring is a universal right with any build. Ha..

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Originally Posted by progmgr1

Thanks for posting - I was afraid you had forgotten about us here on the Forum.

Just curious: are you using thermocouples or thermistors?

Keith HR #894

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No, I just had a busy work week plus a new puppy, so I didn't get much attention on the car this week. Mostly crimping wires during work calls.

The BMS controller uses Type K thermocouples. We had a big roll of K wire at work that we'll never use so I 'borrowed' some. We have the bead welder there too so it saves me a little cash. To be determined if it's worth it yet. I'll do a few and see if I decide to give up and buy them.