Sanity Check on Initial (Rough) Alignment
Several months ago when I assembled my IRS and IFS I followed the F5 recommendations for UCAs and LCAs which is supposed to put alignment roughly in the ballpark. However, my front tires point at each other. This made pushing it up onto the lift a bit difficult, and will continue to be an issue when ever I need to move it. So, it's time to do the initial rough alignment.
I'm following the helpful thread written by Karlos several years ago, as it seems to holistically address [power] steering rack centering, front end alignment, and steering wheel centering. My goal right now is to get the front alignment in the ballpark, and do some fine tuning later on during go-kart stage. I may eventually purchase my own alignment equipment...we'll see.
Karlos' helpful thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post215142
My question for the forum is why do I have a ~30 mm gap on the PS side between the string and the rear edge of the front tire? (I'm using the string alignment approach as shown in his thread above).
First, I centered the PS rack per above. Next, I adjusted the outer tie rods. On the DS I was able to adjust the outer tie rod end without an issue. It's lining up okay. However, on the PS side I have a ~ 30 mm gap.
I have a staggered wheel tire combo: Front is 275/40/R17, and Rear is 315/35/R17. I read somewhere on the forum when using the string alignment and running staggered wheels to subtract the difference in tire width between front and rear. In my case that would be 315 mm - 275 mm = 40 mm. If this is true, why would I only have to account for the difference on the PS, and not the DS?
I'm probably missing something here. Though the front tires are now in (or at least much closer to) ballpark alignment, I would like to understand the reason for the 30 mm gap I have on the PS. Since I have not touched the Toe on the IRS on either side (i.e. they're set to F5 recommended starting point), perhaps it's causing the difference?
Appreciate in advance your comments/suggestions.
Steering Rack and Steering Wheel Centered and IFS Toe Alignment
As I mentioned above, I completed the power steering rack centering procedure written up by Karlos. This process also centers the steering wheel, and IFS toe. It was an interesting process I probably wouldn't have figured out on my own. Thanks again for the great write-up, Karlos!
Here is my starting point. As I mentioned above, I set the outer tie rods per the F5 recommended starting point, and ended up with my front wheels looking like this: driver side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1622568111
Passenger side: Just a wee bit of toe-in and caster, eh?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1622568124
Starting with centering the steering rack: here is the DS side starting point, and arrow indicating the direction to center. I think it was about 1/2" or so. I used the inside of the upright 2" frame sections as my chassis point of reference on both sides.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1622568417
Here's the PS starting point. Red lines indicating where it ended up after centering.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1622568440
I completed the first installation step in the Russ Thompson turn signal kit. This is the first time I've seen the steering wheel in place. Pretty cool. Was able to center the steering wheel. At some point after Karlos wrote his procedure F5 made a nice improvement in the splined shaft coming out of the steering rack: it now has a saddle, so no need to notch the spline for the set screw when centering the steering wheel. The saddle gives the set screw good seating on the shaft no matter the position of the steering wheel. (I haven't torqued down the RT bracket yet with nylon lock nuts. Will do that later on once I'm sure I don't need to take it apart anymore).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1622568134
I have six of the nylon split spacers "steering travel restrictors" coming from Amazon. I will need to add a spacer (or two?) to even out my lock-to-lock steering wheel travel. Right now I have about 1 turn CCW and 1.2 turns CW. I expect the number of turns to be a little limited due to the 275/40/R17 front tires as compared to more narrow tires.
**If anyone has advice or suggestions as to my PS side alignment situation noted above I would very much appreciate you weighing in.
Radiator Installed (w/Breeze Parts)
Last week I was blessed to be able to fly to Kentucky to meet my #2 son and drive with him across the country back to Spokane. About 2,100 miles. He completed his four year enlistment. He begins a new chapter in life. Good to have him home.
On the way I talked him into swinging by Mount Rushmore. We overnighted in Rapid City, so it wasn't too far of a detour. Who knows when/if we'll be back that way again. It was worth it!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1623549395
It's amazing! Words don't do it justice. The faces are about 60' in height. It was an incredible experience. We didn't linger too long, as we had a lot of miles left to go. I snapped a number of pictures with my phone. Here's one giving a bit more perspective of the height to the sculpture above the viewing area:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1623548589
I've been working on the radiator install. I ordered upper hinge mount, lower mount, and shroud from Breeze. One of the first steps is to remove the short 3/4" square tube that is welded to the upper radiator cross bar.
The angle grinder I inherited from my Dad came in quite handy. I thought it would be a bit overkill, but with a steady hand I was able to remove the short 3/4" square tube without too much trouble.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1623550198
After that I attached the hinged upper mount. Then I treated the shroud to Scotch pad and ceramic enamel to match my other engine bay panels. Here it is ready to install.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1623548287
Whoa! Not so fast cowboy. Threading on the last stainless 1/4"-20 screw which mounts the fan to the shroud, I managed to gall the threads. Not sure what I did different or wrong, but this is how much it threaded before it wouldn't thread any further. Dremel to the rescue! Fortunately, it didn't thread any further: if it weren't for this gap the cutoff wheel wouldn't have been a good option. I'm not sure what I would have done in that case. Phew!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1623548573
Chris= 1 Win. Galled stainless screw= 1 Loss.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1623548555
Radiator Installed (w/Breeze Parts) - Part 2
With the fan and shroud assembled to the radiator, and all of the upper cross bar prep done (i.e. 1/4"-20 holes drilled) I used this angle finder to set the radiator to the recommended 51 deg. I was able to convince myself of the many other uses (:p) for an angle finder besides setting the radiator angle. Also, I didn't want to depend on a phone app., so picked up this one from Lowes for about $30.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1623548268
If you're interested in the Breeze lower radiator mount and unfamiliar with it, here's how it mounts to the lower front chassis 3/4" tube. Pretty slick setup. I spray painted the stainless steel 1/2" cross bar black (not visible in this picture) that slides into the hose ends that come with the Breeze lower kit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1623548225
And, here it is installed. It will have cardboard taped for protection of the fins. Front view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1623548246
Rear view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1623548210
This was an interesting task. I enjoyed it. The Breeze parts were good quality, and I would use them again. Thanks, Mark!
Wilwood E-brake Clearance Issue
When faced with a dreaded task, a saying can be heard in my house, "Eat the frog!" Not sure of its origin, but my wife uses it, and I adopted it too.
My Wilwood e-brake calipers rub on my 17" wheels. (I vascillated between 17" and 18" wheels, but felt confident 17" would clear the Wilwood 12.88" brake upgrade kit from F5). The interference can't be more than 1/16" to 1/32", but just enough to make contact. The four piston brake calipers have at least 1/2" clearance, so no problem there.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1625702315
Here's what the interference did to my rear wheels before I discovered it. Not sure what I can do (if anything) to get rid of the ring that won't make it more visible.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1625702519
To address the issue I removed some material from the top surface of the caliper. I figured 3-4 MM of grinding should provide sufficient clearance, allowing a little room for heat expansion. I didn't want to remove too much and potentially weaken the caliper body. Time will tell once it's in real-world operation.
My first experience with a flap disc on my angle grinder. Glad the e-brake caliper is aluminum, as it was pretty easy to remove material.
It was painful to start grinding on a shiny new caliper!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1625702504
I picked up a can of red Dupli-color caliper paint. It's red, but that's all I'll say about the color match. Not too concerned though as it's impossible to see with the wheel mounted. Can I trust you all not to report me to the color matching police? :p I feel better knowing it's coated, even though I don't think this material (aluminum) would deteriorate if I hadn't painted it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1625702537
I ate the frog.
I'm making good progress on the e-brake installation, and hope to finish soon.
IRS Spindle Nut - Need Help
After getting the E-brake installed, I figured I could finally torque down the rear IRS spindle nut. I knew it was going to take some serious leverage to get the 98 ft lb, plus additional 45 deg. of rotation.
I can achieve the 98 lb ft no problem with the E-brakes engaged. However, I'm hitting a wall and no where close to the additional 45 deg. For giggles, I adjusted my torque wrench to 250 ft lb to see how much more rotation this would provide: it only bought me about 5 deg. Say what? Wuch you talkin' 'bout, Willis?
So, I broke out my 1/2' drive Snap-on (inherited from my grandfather 25 years ago) with 15" handle. I even slid a cheater pipe over it for increased leverage. I cranked on it, but the only thing that is doing is starting to twist the Snap-on drive. Any more torque on the cheater bar and I'm sure it will break.
Am I doing something wrong? I know the IRS spindle nut is a bugger (many reports of this on the forum), but gee whiz! I can't imagine how much torque it must need if 250 lb ft only turns the nut 5 or so additional degrees beyond 98 ft lb. Does anyone know the approx. torque that equates to 98 lb ft +45 deg?
Looking for some help/suggestions, please.
IRS Spindle Nuts Torqued | Steering Centered
Feeling better after hearing from Edwardb on my IRS spindle nuts, I torqued them to 250 ft. lbs. I must have been a bit over zealous last time, because this time I was able to achieve about 25-30 deg. rotation after 98 ft. lbs. Calling it good.
Not too long ago I went through the steering centering process (noted it above), but I still needed to complete the final step and center the steering wheel lock-to-lock.
My clockwise steering wheel rotation was ~1.4 turns, but counterclockwise was ~1.1 turns. I bought some spacers (1979-2004 Steering Rack Limiters) from Amazon for a little under $18 for a pack of six: Steering Rack Limiters/Spacers. Since my wheel turned quite a bit further clockwise, I inserted the spacer on the driver's side.
Picture of limiter/spacer
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1626309324
Added one spacer (white) to the driver's side to equalize lock-to-lock steering wheel rotation. Now lock-to-lock is ~1.1 turns in both directions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1626309343
Passenger side for comparison - no spacer added.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1626309360
I'm running 275/40/R17 on the front, and with the above config. the wheels just kiss the F-panels at full lock. I'll start with this, and adjust/make changes to accommodate the wider tires if the F-panel contact is an issue.
I was pretty gentle loosening the metal bands, hoping to reuse them so I didn't have to replace with a plastic cable tie. I think I was successful. When I first saw the clamped bands it reminded me of the clamps used on underground sprinkler systems (UGS). Since I've done a good amount of UGS maintenance on a couple different houses I've lived in over the years, I had this band clamping tool. I think it will work to reclamp the bands over the dust boots (once I'm certain I won't need to get back inside the boots).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1626309389
I think I may be ready to start wiring.
Electrical Started...Oh, the little things!
Finally finished my firewood for this winter, so able to get back on the build. I'm starting electrical, so spending some time reading the F5 chassis and Ford Performance instructions, as well as several build threads.
I'm starting with the main Coyote power wiring in the engine bay. I also wanted to get the RF fuse panel installed. This meant I would need another powder coating session. When I get out all the supply/gear to powder coat, it's nice to be able to keep the momentum going and do as many parts as I can before putting it all away. So, I PC'd the fuse panel bracket, as well as all the hood and trunk hinge pieces. Takes some time, but worth it IMHO.
Before PC-ing the fuse panel bracket I test fit it, and drilled all of the 1/8" rivet holes. I found the front PS side of the RF fuse bracket overlapped (read interfered) with the 1/4"-20 socket head that bolts the rear bracket of the brake/clutch MCs to the 1/4" tube. Not a big problem to drill a hole, and incorporate it as a fastener for the fuse panel bracket.
Thought by test fitting I was good-to-go. Nope. I missed something. The rear relay sockets (horn and fan) prevented the fuse panel from fully sliding/seating into the bracket. What to do? I disassembled it (again!), and removed just enough material from the side of the relay socket so it would fully seat.
Here's the point of interference:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1628041876
Close-up of the interference. You can see my first slice starting the material removal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1628041916
Material pretty much removed here.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1628041889
Made it past that hurdle, so now it was just a matter of making it permanent with rivets. Not quite. The front mounting post of the panel interfered with the 3/4" tube. Sheesh! Again, not a huge deal. Was able to slice away a vertical strip from the post to clear the interference. You can see how I incorporated the 1/4"-20 socket head bolt as a fastening point (bottom left of picture). I liked that idea better than cutting a square out of the bracket to avoid it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1628041939
(You can see I nicked the PC in a few spots, but I ain't going to fix it today).
Finally, here is a homemade support bracket for the DS front corner. Have seen quite a few builders do this, as this corner is otherwise unsupported.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1628041955
Today's update isn't really much of an update, but I sure feel good getting a couple little things off my chest. Thanks for "listening"!
A bit of frustration, but a "bad" day on the build is still a good day.
P.S. Coyote (Gen 3) computer, PDB, and Mega fuse mounted; picked up a battery and master batt cutoff switch, but not ready for pictures. Hope to finish that soon and update with pictures.
Coming up to breathe from Electrical...Hood Hinges
Lots of reading, thinking, planning, rereading, and mostly not wanting to screw up something on my electrical install means not much progress lately. So, I came up for air lest I drown in my electrical conundrum...Sheesh! For the sake of my sanity (insanity?) I picked up another aspect of the build, hood hinges.
During my last mega-powder coat session I PCd the hood hinge hardware pieces, so they were ready to install. I followed advice from the forum to ditch the wavy washers, replacing with 3/8" stainless flat washers to stablize hinge and hood operation.
Here's a sample wavy washer that comes with the hinge hardware.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1629168175
What is the chance I remembered this little nugget of wisdom before I assembled the hinges? Slim to none. The odds held true. Actually, I wasn't completely done before I remembered...only half way through the second hinge assembly! :o
Thankfully, I had a good supply of stainless washers on hand, so it was an easy fix. Better to remember now versus after the hood is installed. In my mind's eye I can see it now: "Gee, these hood hinges seem a bit wobbly".
Passenger side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1629168190
Top view of passenger side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1629168206
A little forward progress; a little backtracking. And so it goes. But still having a blast!
A big thanks to fellow builder, JohnK, for reminding me to divert to something else when I get bogged down: thanks, John!
