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yep, I've done a few extra turns on them - the Fragola fittings I purchased are the zinc covered steel ones, they tear up my aluminum AN wrench something fierce...Quote:
Originally Posted by Fman
at this point the joints are binding a bit so I can redo them - the olives are only $2/ea. and I left a little extra fuel line slack so it should still fit :)
Make sure you have any steel braid trimmed back so it doesnt get in the threads, but just enough. If you trim the braid back too far you wont get enough compression on the olive to the tube even with the fitting tightened all the way together.
Thanks Hooper! yes, I ordered a few new fittings - got them at a 45-degree angle for better aesthetics - plus they're aluminum Fragola so it should be a bit easier.. plus I'll use some lube to ensure smooth tightening :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper
thanks to @Fman he was gracious enough to haul my body up to Ken Pike since he was getting his car back from fitting :)
last time on the buck, and in Ken's shop!
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argh, more attempts - went through 4 ferrules/olives - got to the point that there was no audible leak, but failed the water test :(
this one was trimmed too far back, so I used a blade to shorten the PTFE
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ferrule is flat on the top of the PTFE liner
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https://youtu.be/TfmGWUiKsbo
any ideas what I may be doing wrong here?
Most likely incompatible fitting and hose. The Fragola fitting is for ptfe hose. In the question and answer about e85 for that Kraken hose says it's not ptfe lined.
Get the Fragola hose https://pitstopusa.com/i-23901885-fr...tegory:1206463
sadly it's the Fragola hose and ends!!...Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg K
The link above in post #161 is what led me to a different hose that I thought you were using.
using FRA-602006 from summitQuote:
Originally Posted by Greg K
just to follow up, got some new olives and will give another go... one thing I've been thinking is that maybe I'm putting too much air pressure in the line to test?
also, found some instructions that shows that you push the PTFE lining .125" past the ferrule? First I've seen that - what is everyone's take on this setup?
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braid...es-p-1201.html
Todd, what pressure are you testing at? FWIW I did 65 lbs on my entire system and it held pressure. One thing to consider you do not need to bottom out the fitting when tightening them down. There can be a gap in between the two fittings and still seal up properly. I am wondering if you are possibly over tightening the ferrule? Definitely do not need to go gorilla strength tight. I used the same line as you but did use aluminum fittings which really should not make a difference. Another tip is to push the ferrule into the side of the vice and bottom it out on the PTFE line before tightening it down. Lastly, make sure and put lube on the threads this really made a difference.
Hope this helps you out...
If you are using the fittings and olives it looks like you are using, you cant push the line all the way through the olive. There is a stop at the top of the olive that the line is meant to push against. If you have a ferrule type that is straight through on the inside then yeah the line should extend past the end of the ferrule.Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
For pressure testing, what are you testing to? It shouldnt be anywhere near the limit of these fittings and hoses either way, the assembled hoses are rated as high as 2,000 PSI. Mine held 100 PSI of fuel pressure no problem when testing
Got 3 of 4 sealed
need 1 more olive to seal up!!
Attachment 140519
Awesome, what did you end up changing? Glad it is working out for you!Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
Finally got 3 of 4 PTFE ends air-tight
I’ve determined that I’ll ruin every aluminum fitting - so I’ll stick with the zinc covered steel
I went with some zinc/steel earl's fittings with the brass olive, they seem to be working better... every one of my aluminum fittings got stripped :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fman
been busy with work this week, need to finalize this and move along :)
ok - holy smokes - I'm still alive guys!
A few months has passed, and sadly I was kept away from the build...
so some updates:
the body was taken to Ken Pike
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I donated my body buck,
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and the initial body prep is done!
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I have a LOT to do to get the car ready for fitment!
Tonight I was able to get the Russ Thompson turn signal mounted,
I just need a few longer screws to get the bushing collar to have enough threads that I feel comfortable with the setup, I chose not to cut away more metal than was needed.
pre-assembled the setup for fitment on the body, I found that it's a good idea to snug up the bushing between the 2 parts to align the holes a bit more, so I recommend a quick tighten and removal
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Thanks to @Fman, Tony & Russ Thompson - I was able to figure out which way the plate fits onto the MKIV mount
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drilling out took some time, but slow and steady and used some cutting oil to help keep the squeaks at bay! still cleaning up metal shavings!!
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Installing the steering shaft took a lot more effort than expected but I mounted just up till the 2nd washer was hidden as the instructions say...
I'll get a few longer screws tomorrow as I wanted a bit more thread on the mount
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overall happy with the result - removed the signal stalk till later - no sense in accidentally breaking it!
edit: I believe my 2ndary shaft was damaged somehow and both ends are a bit mushroomed :(
well, my steering shaft issue aside... I think I somehow buckled both ends of the 2nd shaft so I'm contacting FFR to get a new primary and secondary shaft with the washers, etc... sigh...
back to the build, realized I had not put in the floor of the passenger side yet LOL whoops!
made an aluminum and silicone pizza today :)
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felt good to make a little progress today!
ok - got the fuel lines run tonight... I think all this time I just haven't been tightening down the union joints enough!! so basically threw away $100 of AN fittings and olives.. oh well, live and learn!
Here are the fuel lines from tank to engine bay...
from the tank
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down the passenger backside
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under the passenger tube - they'll straighten out once the fittings are set in the engine bay
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loose in the engine bay until I finalize the insulation and determine the pressure regulator location
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here are the screws I used to go through the mounts and into the chassis
1/4-20 x 1" Socket Head Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304)
-6AN Hose Separator Clamp - Fuel line Mounting Clamps, Aluminum Hose Fitting Adapter
full details on my fuel setup
https://cobradreams.com/2020/07/17/ordered-my-flex-fuel-line/
more odds and ends work today...
after some struggling to mount the reservoirs next to the vacuum brake booster, I finally decided to mount the reservoirs on the firewall due to so many conflicts with the booster area
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I'll figure out some type of cover for the Jamar etched logo - not a priority right now....
This setup should have enough room with a coyote engine and it will facilitate a really short hop to the clutch master, and will have to feed the brake booster through the side of the driver box
next was to setup the driver footbox, I thought I had lost the panels but found them and assembled with clecos - not ready for final fit just yet - but it's darn close
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next was to use some extra aluminum panel to fill in the passenger side floor since I'm not using the handbrake
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lastly, I started to assemble the mesh screen to cover the radiator, sadly my brain was thinking in 2D and I only got enough aluminum 1/2 to do one side, so tomorrow I'll finish up once I make yet another trip to Home Depot :)
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Nice work on the Jamar, looking good!
finally got the radiator cover installed today - got the idea from Eddie (vSpeeds) and Travis (Fman)
I think the mod adds a nice look, should protect the radiator, and only about $50 and a few hours of drilling, snipping, aligning, riveting, innovating ;)
ordered the 24x36 sheet from Pegasus Auto
Attachment 144403
I had to trim it down to fit the front of the radiator, I ended up at 22.5" W and 20" H it's a bit long on the bottom, could have cinched it up another 1/2 inch, 19.5 H would place the lower bar just in the middle of the radiator tab
I don't have a drill press, so all this was done by hand, gets tricky when aligning two bar together to not have the bottom one walk away on you
I used a cleco to initially hold the bars together, then used 2 zip-ties to lock in the x,y,z axis which worked out pretty well IMHO
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getting everything aligned, clecos help a LOT here
I left the mesh a little wide, maybe 1 square to ensure I was getting enough mesh in the bars
To clean it up, it was easy enough once held together to pull a wide vertical strand down the outer edge and dremel off the horizonal matrix on the outside
Attachment 144407
The top spring clips worked great to hold the upper mesh, but the bottom needed some support, I found a few ABS spacers in my toolbox and some stainless bolts, lock washers and nuts
one at each lower corner, just drilled out the rivet and it aligned perfectly with the lower radiator tab... took a pic, maybe hard to see
this ensures the shield is solidly mounted and won't move/damage the radiator itself
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here's my before and after pics - I think it turned out great!
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Nice! I'm adding that to my to-do list.
slowly chipping away at the brake/clutch reservoir plumbing...
the 3/8" tubing I got from Whitby was about 2-5" too short for my setup, so I had to shop around to find some brake ready hose
I also took the time to swap out my 1/8" NPT for the clutch line to a 1/4" barb, the 3/8" barb was too big and this fits up better.
before running the reservoir lines, I've been on the hunt for some grommets that will keep the lines intact, no cuts and keep the engine bay heat from creeping into the footbox.
I found the RPC 1" x 1.25" ones fit one of the footbox holes perfectly given the extra depth with the steel plate - but the one closest to the clutch needs a 1.3-1.5" OD grommet - need to keep hunting!
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for the inner wall I found a collection of grommets from Harbor Freight that work perfectly for the thinner aluminum sheet metal, but first had to make some holes
I quickly realized that the top of the inner footbox was not 'level' so I had to do some quick measurements
Step drill bits are probably one of the best inventions ever! 7/8" center hole, and 1" on both side holes
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You may notice that it's "BIG small BIG" hole placement - I went off the tightness of the NTP on the reservoir and alternated the outputs so they can route around each other.
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overall pleased with how it turned out, still need one more grommet to run to the brake booster, tomorrow is another day!
on a side note, I talked with Mike Forte this week and updated my first post with the order sheet - waiting for the tax man update, then will pull the trigger on the Coyote and TKX :)
reservoirs fully connected today to the vacuum booster, I'll figure out some type of foam to fill the gaps around the two 3/8"s hoses
Attachment 144902
I was also able to fully mount the driver's floor
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the driver's inside panel needed more fitment so I can add the ThermoTec on the inside
Attachment 144903
Since I was on a roll, I decided to align the whole top part of the box and prep the hatch... just a few clecos for now, but will add nutserts to ease access
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I think next steps are to install the passenger side floor, and get on my brake lines already!
last night worked on fitting and setting the passenger floor pan
I had to remove the handbrake mount on the chassis since I'm going with the Wilwood EPB, quick work with a sawzall, cleaned up with a dremel, and painted the bare spots
Attachment 145157
then it was fit, drill, clean, verify the holes, silicone, and rivet into place!
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I told my wife she could officially sit in my car last night, but she passed until there's a seat!
Really coming together! Love the frame color. One thing I noticed, and you may have already accounted for but with the reservoirs mounted on the firewall it may be challenging to check the levels and/or fill them once the body is on. Just a thought. ....
Thanks! it's going slow, but progress is progress :)Quote:
Originally Posted by bldr.rob
yes the reservoirs will be tough to check, unfortunately options are limited though given the vacuum booster - i spun on that placement for way too long and just bit the bullet and will learn to live with it
in hindsight, would have done the hydroboost to save space in that area... not that I couldn't change it now but I'm pretty deep into that segment already...
Looking Good, Keep it up!
closed up the gas tank mount that won't be used, and mapping out the drop trunk ideas...
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determining whether I flush cut against the rails and drop the box in from top, or bend tabs down from the trunk and rivet the floor of the drop trunk to the drop tabs?
Attachment 145666
also drilled out the fuel sender access port
Attachment 145667
Regarding your drop-trunk ideas, I was thrown for a loop until I remembered that you installed a non-standard gas tank (like, why is the fuel sender on the other side???). As a newbie, I've got nothing else to add, other than your build is looking great. Good luck with your custom drop-trunk!
worked on setting up my ABS controller, I've been so back and forth on this setup - but I figured I have all the parts so I darn well should set it up!
I'm drafting off @johngeorge setup with the GT500 ABS module http://www.johngeorgeracing.com/wordpress/2015/12/
I don't know johngeorge but everyone who DOES know him says he's a legit dude with racing cred :)
trusting blindly :)
I have the Mustang HCU with GT500 module, not the FR500S module - that's for slicks, the GT500 module is for road tires - so perfect!
Believe it or not, I got the whole setup for about $160 - but now the fun part - where do you mount an ABS module on an FFR?
now, when you get the HCU and bracket from a Mustang - it isn't designed to fit a custom car like the FFR
Attachment 145723
so I had to do some measurements and figure out how the heck this will mount on the MKIV - perfect spot next to the Breeze battery box
Attachment 145724 a local pizza box will do for the mockup for a sheetmetal box :)
with the HCU mounted on top, I'd need a way to mount the bottom of the HCU to the bracket so 4 x M5 rivnuts will be used, but first I had to trim the bracket to get it to 'fit' the space
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this gave me the basic shape and I smoothed the edges on the grinding wheel to knock off the edges, and also used a brushed wheel to strip a lot of the paint and prep for some POR-15
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tonight I remembered why POR-15 is such a fickle product, the mini can that I had was sealed up REALLY tight since I had previously used it on the IRS pumpkin - as I was tearing up the lid the whole thing exploded, ruining my garage computer mouse, and blackening my hands like midnight... UGH! oh well, some dawn soap, and brillo pads (and a new mouse tomorrow) and back to work!
Tomorrow I will set the rivnuts and make my super excellent sheetmetal box with my harbor freight metal brake LOL
I just had a similar experience w/ POR this weekend. Not the exploding can part, but the stained hands. If you buy another can, instead of opening up the lid, drill 2 small holes through the lid opposite of each other. you pour what you need out into a cup and reseal the holes with small screws. you'll just need to unscrew the screws when you want to use it again. think of an old juice can or Hi-C can that you'd need to open with that triangular can opener.
haha - yes, that went through my head, about 2 seconds after the accident... it's very odd how your skin gets warm almost instantly when POR hits it...Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy79
call it poor prep on my behalf, I thought I could open it without gloves on... lesson learned!!
built my mounting box, note - my name is not Mark Breeze, quality does not come close to his battery box - but then again, it's just a mount for my ABS HCU, so it will be tucked down by the battery box
Used my pizza box mockup to scribe the sheet metal, some extra parts from the anniv build came with un-powdercoated stuff so I'm recycling :)
Attachment 145793
Since I have the cheapo Harbor Freight brake, I can't easily do keyed width bends, so I used my vice to do the initial bend - and cinched the rest with a hammer and square corner - not pretty -but functional
Attachment 145794
This gave me the shelf to mount the HCU, so I drilled/matched the holes
I left the HCU main bushing and bolt to sustain the mount as well as the bottom pins so it should be pretty secure with rivnuts on the plate
Attachment 145795
I went to paint, it was dark outside and after my initial spray I realized that someone at the store had swapped color lids :mad:
so I thought I was getting hammered black paint, and it ended up being a gray/tan hammertone... I'll paint over with some black tomorrow...
extra rivet holes are pre-drilled so I can place in the car and drill into the 4" tubes and a couple rivets into the Breeze battery box as well - overall about 8 rivets to hold this in place
Attachment 145796
I basically mounted mine in the same place but used another Breeze battery box. Depending on how you mount it, you have to watch out for how far it sits down into the hole so you can still get the harness plugged in because of the 4" tube. I ended up having standoffs on the bottom of the ABS bracket. I also didn't like the way it felt by only sitting in the post/rubber fittings from the bottom and the bolt on the one side. So I bolted it on both sides, from that ear on the bracket and then through the front of the Breeze battery box with a think rubber washer between the two.
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awesome - yep, I'm inverting my 'bucket' so the ABS HCU will sit on top (not down in) of the boxQuote:
Originally Posted by Hacksaw84
lookin good!!!
it's taken me a few days to finally get this setup, but the ABS HCU is mounted and I have a battery in the car!
my nutsert method didn't work out, I just couldn't get them to bind over 8mm, so I went with some long 3/16" rivets and it worked great!
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Looking good Todd, that ABS is going to be a sweet setup.
Hey Todd, great info. Quick question (John George's thread on ABS has some dead pics): For the GT500 ABS you can use the tone ring that's already mounted on the SN95 hubs (but maybe with some different sensors) and then use .... whatever magic magnets comes on the CV axles in the back with the sensor you called out? Or is there a seperate tone ring you need to separately mount to those hubs?
Thanks!
Juan