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That's the stock look. Mike has this trim ring, although don't know about the fit on your dash: http://www.replicaparts.com/dash%20s...ert%20page.htm.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Many use the Russ Thompson turn signal setup which fills that all in and provides a more finished look.
Carl,Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Like Paul already said, that's it for the FFR padded dash. I looked at the trim ring that Mike sells, but didn't want to cut the structure out of that part of the dash to install it. Just one thing that you may want to look at though. From the position of the steering column in the opening, it looks like your dash may be a bit high. Watch for the body hitting on the gauge at the far left as you set the body on. Without any bulb seal, my body was right on the gauge bezel. I trimmed the body back about 1/2" under the cowl to ensure it wouldn't rub on the face of the dash or the gauge.
Also, in your gauge-focused video of the first start, it looked like your inertia switch was mounted button down. If you are actually using the RF fuel pump relay, you may want to flip that over.
Dave
Yeah, I knew I mounted it upside down, LOL just have not flipped it over yet... I've banged it a few times and it seems to be ok that way, but I do know I need to flip it. Thanks for looking out...Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
As far as the dash goes, it is down right on top of the 3/4" arch tube... If I take it any lower, the top edge would be below that tube... I hope it's all good... Thanks again. We will find out.. It is flat at the top of the arch and then down at the corners it is just below/right at the 3/4" tube... It actually states in the instructions that came with the plastic padded dash from FF that I would fit like this... Fingers crossed it will be good.
Attachment 96942
Sounds like the dash is where it should be, and mine is the same as you describe. Maybe the difference in the column location is simply due to the differences in our steering setups. Your going to be done before me at the pace you are working at. I can't wait to see your graduation post!Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Dave
Glad you posted this picture Carl, as I'm going to be fitting my dash soon enough, and I need to know where the steering tube is coming through, as I need to cut a larger hole in the center for the RT Turn signal mod. Hopefully with it sitting lower there is enough room!Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Sounds and looks awesome!!! thanks so much for posting! guys always ask how they sound, and its tough to find a good video!!! can't wait to see it tearing up the streets!!
Johnny
This is awesome, congratulations! I'm about ready to turn the key on mine as well, probably this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Congrats on the first start! If that electric steering works like mine, you'll love it. I set my alignment for power steering so when off I am not sure if manual feel is correct. It's nice to have the option in different types of driving though.
With a very big grin on my face I'm excited to announce that today I was able to take #8690, Factory Five Roadster 20th Anniversary #008 out for it's first drive. After spending about 20 minutes adjusting the timing and idle to get it where I wanted for now, I started the video below. This was from my GoPro that I've used many times in both my son's and my own race cars with no problem. But today I had a minor one. I guess it was rattling inside the case so the audio is picking up that, but it also picked up issue #1 that I have. The U-Joints/Pinion angle, more on this in a moment. So enjoy the short ride, I did not go any further after I realized that the U-joints were not happy. But I did not park it until I goosed it just a little...
As I say in the video, I can just feel the power wanting to be unleashed. I'm going to take a couple day break from the build, catch up on some household chores and then get back to it this weekend. All I can say right now is WOW! That was a fun, short, but very fun little drive.
So a Question.
- The Drive shaft has a significant angle going from the transmission and then angling up to the pinion. (2015 IRS) I need to put some spacers in the trans mount and raise up the tail... Where is the best place for the spacers? Under the "A" frame or between the "A" frame and the trans mount? Perhaps between the trans mount and trans? Just curious your thoughts. I was planning to pick up some Grade 8 Washers and get that drive shaft angle much closer to where it needs to be this weekend.
https://youtu.be/mb6HmiWph2I
That was awesome! Gives me some inspiration to get on mine this week so we can go cruising. By the way, Forte sells a TKO spacer kit if you want to go that route.
http://fortesparts.com/index.php/pro...on-spacer-kit/
Either forte or breeze make trans mount spacers to fix the pinion angle, I'm sure someone will post a link if you don't find them.
Excited to say that I just went back out to the garage to turn everything off and lock up for the night and found the issue with the U-Joints. I reached down and turned the drive shaft back and forth. Lots of play. Looked down in there at the same time and can see that the U-joint flange that attached directly to the pinion adapter plate was loose... Or should I say the bolts were tight, but too long. I had seen this in other posts, but until I put some pressure by driving it, I could not see/feel it. After a few revolutions it was easy to see... Simple fix this weekend when I go back to it... I'll cut those bolts just a tad shorter... I actually measured the hole and the bolts and they are basically the exact same so I'm certain a 1/16" will be all it will take. I like simple fixes.... Still need to raise the trans up a bit, but that again is a very simple fix...
Congrats! Thanks for posting. It is always inspiring to get first hand, Pics, progress on a build.
Congrats on the go-kart. You absolutely need to shim up that TKO. Mine needed 3/4-inch. Since yours is the same setup, expect it would be the same. Stack of washers works, but not what I did. Forte sells 3/8-inch spacers that can be stacked. I made mine out of a 3/4-inch aluminum bar. Goes between the mounting ears on the transmission and the transmission A-frame. You'll need longer bolts. Looked for a picture but couldn't find one. Pretty straightforward though.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps720c6ea1.jpg
Congratulations Bad-Asp!
.....We Can't Wait To See Your Next Video!
Also, here's a little U-Joint Phasing Video that we can all use.
https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4
Thanks Paul,Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I'll figure something out, it is pretty straight forward as you say.... But I do not understand the above. I have the trans mount of course... so did you mean to say the spacer you put in is between the transmission ears and the top of the transmission mount? Or between the trans mount and the A frame? I guess it really doesn't matter a whole lot..
Congrats on hitting the milestone :) What ratio steering rack are you using---looks like a lot of turns.
Jeff
It is the Manual rack from FF... I'm guessing it is 15:1 It is only 3 complete turns, lock to lock...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Sorry. Brain cramp. :p Yes, between the transmission ears and the Energy Suspension transmission mount. No change in the connection between the transmission mount and the A frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Good video, GoDad - i learned something by watching that!Quote:
Originally Posted by GoDadGo
What a great video! Thanks for posting, BadAsp - A victorious day, that's for sure!
Congratulations - no better feeling! Glad you quickly figured out your noise.
Chris
WooHoo! Congratulations and nice find on the bolts. There's no stopping ya now!
Woo Hooo!!
Nothing like the 1st ride in a new machine!
Good catch on the pinion flange bolts. Easy fix!
Today was a day of minor tweaks and getting back to the beginning... drilling and clekos...
Before really getting started, I found that after my short go cart drive that my DS camber was way off so I adjusted that to a much better look. Then rearranged the garage, cleaned things up a bit and put the car up on the jack stands. Removed the side pipes to get them out of the way and then started out by addressing the loose drive shaft to pinion flange. Removed all 4 bolts and cut off about 3/16" on each one. Cleaned them up on the wire wheel, and reinstalled, loctite and torqued appropriately. The flange is tight now...
Continued in that area by pulling out the bottom bolts from the trans mount and raising the transmission tail up about 3/4" to fix the pinion angle. Things are much better now. I used a stack of thick washers and some new 1.5" grade 8 bolts to replace the .75" long bolts that came out. Torqued them down on the lock washers and call this job complete.
Took a long brake and caught up with a very good friend for lunch and stopped by the DMV to pick up some forms to start the title/registration process. I'll cover this process for SC in a separate thread for others to have available. Looks like it is going to be very straight forward and smooth.
Back to the build after the DMV I decided I need to start looking at getting ready to drop the body on. I had not completed any of the panel drilling for the driver's foot box top and side. So I went back to the beginning and broke out the 1/8" drill bit and clekos... Also installed some nutserts on the top access panel and then pulled them all back off as I still need to do some work in the DS foot box before they go on permanently.
Attachment 97099 Attachment 97100 Attachment 97101 Attachment 97102
Today was kind of an easy day. I worked on several small items, time consuming items that have to get done...
1st, Installed the horns. Fairly simple job, followed the build manual almost, just a couple minor adjustments to that guide. First off, I did not mount them with the brackets together. I actually put a little separation between the horns so that they looked a little less cramped in the space. I used 1/4-20 stainless bolts, self locking nuts and washers. I also put red loctite between the 3/4" tube and the silver horn brackets to "glue" them in place and hopefully prevent them from moving. Oh, and in my garage, the horns are extremely loud.
Attachment 97156 Attachment 97157
Next I pulled out all of the hood hinge parts and some other bare metal parts. Spent a couple hours massaging the sharp edges off of all of them, getting the plasma cut nibs off of them and rounding off all the sharp edges. I used my 4 1/2 side grinder with at 60 grit flap wheel. Then cleaned them all with paint thinner and hung them up. Sprayed them all with a couple coats of self-etching primer and then a couple coats of final paint. I'm using Dupli-color paint that is a near perfect match to the 20th Anniversary frame power coat gray color. Those parts will be put away and be ready for use when the time comes.
Attachment 97158 Attachment 97159
I also installed the trans tunnel cover shifter fill plate. Nothing special here except as you can see there are two rivets missing... Those will actually be into the 3/4" cross tube underneath if I do in fact permanently attache that cover. I'm thinking of using industrial strength hook and loop (velcro) to attache it and if I do, then I'll just put the rivets in and flatten them with a few taps of a hammer.
Attachment 97160 Attachment 97161
Next... I completed the door latch improvements in preparation to using them.
I followed a couple different leads on the modification/improvements on the door latches. While I've seen where some never had a problem with the latches and others that have had several problems, I wanted to do what I can now to prevent any problems in the future. So, this is what I did.
One of the issues I've read about is that the small ball shaped handle that is only pressed into the latch bar will come off. I started by drilling a 5/8" hole into my 2x6 board that I use for just about all my drilling on my work bench. This was so that the knob would be able to be held in place as I used a center punch and drill on it. Center punched the end of the knob on the back of the lever and then using a #62 drill bit, drilled a hole about 1/2 inch deep. Then, tapped it with a 6-32 tap and cleaned out the oil I used during the taping with some carb cleaner. (want the loctite to work well) I installed a 1/2" 6-32 cap screw with washer, both stainless steel and I used blue loctite. Clean, simple and a little insurance keeping the latch knob in place.
Attachment 97162 Attachment 97165 Attachment 97166
Next I opened up the latch by removing the two small screws that hold the chrome cover in place.
next, I picked up a couple 5/16 stainless steel carriage bolts, and self locking nuts. Using my bench grinder, I flattened the top of the carriage bolt rounded head to basically make them flat to fit when installed. I used one of my extra self locking nuts to hold the bolt with vice grips as I did the grinding. It gets very hot so the self locking vinyl actually gets pretty soft and renders the nut unusable for anything except this type of use. The square in the door latch itself seems to have a very slight taper so it was necessary to use a file to "clean" out the square so that the shank of the carriage bolt could sit flat in place. This was very minor filing, not really opening the square hole, rather just cleaning it up.
Attachment 97167 Attachment 97168 Attachment 97169
Next I found a couple spacers that were not used from my brake install that were just the right thickness and almost the perfect inside diameter to sit down over the latch. I used a step drill to open up the first half of the spacer so that it set perfectly over the top of the latch collar. Place a stainless washer over the top of that and tightened down the self locking nut.
Attachment 97170 Attachment 97171 Attachment 97172 Attachment 97173
I use white lithium grease on all moving parts and then open and closed, in and out, over and over the latch to be sure that grease had a chance to get into all the moving parts. The latch feels very smooth and much easier than the original feel. Cleaned and polished the latches and put them back into the plastic bags and the box. Ready for use when the time is right.
Ok so today I rearranged the garage and dropped the body down on to the chassis. I have two bolts going into the rear QJ mount holes, not tight, just holding it up. Then it is pushed all the way forward and down over the front QJ mounts. The door sills are up flush under the chassis. I've put several folded up shop rags in strategic places to simulate the bulb seal holding it up slightly. The body is just at the door strikers as I see in Jeff K's instructions is a good starting point.
So my initial observations of problems is that the the body is sitting on my tach and one of my switches. I'm thinking I will need to cut a bit off of the roll over the dash. Also the cutouts for the headers seem to be way off. I will say that I have two different sets of headers and both seem to be in the exact same position. When I had the side pipes on, they seemed to line up with the chassis very well so I'm kind of at a loss as to why the cut outs are so far off.
The hood opening, both sides are sitting right down on the 3/4" tubes and seem to be centered on them.
THIS IS WHERE I'VE DREADED going on this build. What do I need to do and where do I start?
Attachment 97230 Attachment 97231 Attachment 97224 Attachment 97225 Attachment 97226Attachment 97227 Attachment 97228 Attachment 97229 Attachment 97232 Attachment 97237
Carl,Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Have you tried to mount the side pipes yet? There is quite an optical illusion created by looking at the header through the openings. If the body is sitting right on the front 3/4" rails, it will get some lift once the weather strip is on, but only a small amount. The gauge and switch issue is what I was talking about when I thought the dash looked a little high. You obviously can't move the gauge, but you are on the right track by trimming the cowl rolled edge back a bit. I trimmed mine about 1/2", but haven't put the body back on again to see how that fits.
Dave
Your side pipes openings don't look bad at all. Lots of factors to keep in mind: The side pipes don't come straight out from the headers. The actual opening needed is behind and down from what you can see looking directly into the opening. The optical illusion already mentioned. The openings are cut purposely small, and are meant to be trimmed to your build. The openings are also hand cut and often aren't very symmetrical. Yours are quite different. I'm pretty confident those will work out OK. But don't do anything to fit them until (1) body mounting is further along (e.g. bulb seal and you're positive it's in the final position, (2) Doors fitted. It's quite common to need to pull the sides in/out to get the best door fit. (3) Front splash guards installed. Those will pull the corners of the wheel opening in and affect the cutout to some degree. Then see where you're at. Trim a little at a time and I'll bet the side pipes fit OK.
Regarding the body fit, I wouldn't trim too much on that front body roll until you try again with the bulb seal in place. Could make a difference, especially over the firewall. If the body is all the way down on the hood surround tubes, it's too low. It's usually 1/2-inch or so above. The foam filler provided in the kit will fill the opening to make it look better. But won't hold the body up. The front of the body is mainly held by the firewall and then the front quick jack bolts. The radiator surround provides some support as well.
As always, Thank You ALL for your input and Dave and Paul this all makes a lot of sense. I just went out to the garage to give it a look before I call it a night. Took a few hours off to watch the NASCAR race and get my mind off the build.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Tomorrow I will most likely lift the body back up and install the bulb seal and then set it back down and attach the front QJ bolts and turn light brackets. Then I'll start to get a better idea as to what needs to happen.
One thing for sure is that I will need to relocate my turn signal switch. I'll most likely just move it down to where I have my hazard switch and move my hazard switch down under the dash in that same general area. I did not realize that the body and the door was going to encroach into that area so far. My E-Power Steering adjustment knob will be perfect there, out of the way, but I can reach it if needed during a drive.
Attachment 97262 Attachment 97263
Tonight I started back with a fresh perspective and I hope understanding of the body fitment. I removed the body and installed the foam rubber seal and bulb seal. I would like to be sure that I have done this correctly.
1st the build manual states to put the self stick foam rubber seal on the 3/4" tubes on either side of the hood opening. I did this from the back of the dash all the way down to the front where it starts the downward angle next to the radiator. I actually went a couple inches past that sharp downward turn. The manual also states to put it across the top of the trunk hoop... simple enough!
2nd it states to put the bulb seal across the top of the fire wall and the trunk sides and rear floor. Ok, firewall check; Trunk Side walls from the back of the seat back to the very bottom of the wall at the bottom of the trunk area near the quick jack mounts, check;
Here is where I have a question... It also goes on to and states "The push on weather strip goes on top of the trunk walls and rear floor." What I think I did incorrectly is I put bulb seal across the back wall of the drivers compartment, just behind the seats all the way across. But I'm not sure if that is right. Also does the bulb seal go across the very back behind the fuel tank on the small ledge by the QJ mounts?
Here are some photos of what I've done.
Attachment 97364 Attachment 97365 Attachment 97366 Attachment 97367 Attachment 97368 Attachment 97369 Attachment 97370
Carl,Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
No bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall between the trunk side walls, and yes along the bottom edge of the trunk floor. Everything else is correct.
Dave
Awesome, Thanks Dave!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
So If I take it off of the rear cockpit wall, what seals the weather from the rear tires into the cockpit over your outer shoulder??
Attachment 97371
Keep the bulb seal on from the trunk walls outward down to the door latch. You are sealing only what is exposed to the elements. You can see the placement of the seal in Paul's build thread on post #378:Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post249263
Dave
Carl,
Like this:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1515679869
Jeff
Today I completed a few tasks, Lowered my dash a small amount to allow the body to sit correctly, mounted the front and rear quick jacks and have the body in pretty much what I think will be it's correct fitment. So from there, I installed my hood, everything seemed to go well, had to of course trim around the edges of it to get it to sit in place. I limited my trimming however to leave something for my painter to do. Here are some photos of the hood install. I have the locking latches installed as well as the pneumatic lifts. The hood scoop is NOT installed, just sitting on there for the look.
Attachment 97612 Attachment 97613 Attachment 97614 Attachment 97615 Attachment 97616
Looking good man! Who are you getting to paint it. Someone local?Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
The plan is for Jeff Kliener to do his awesome magic on it.... some time late next summer/fall That's why I'm getting it together so I can have some fun in Gel coat.... :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
Nice! Nothing but the best!