Fuel and Brake Lines Plus
Lots going on. But the main thing is last night I finally finished the fuel and brake lines. I’ll go through that in some detail and then a few other happenings. I started using rigid stainless tubing for fuel and brake lines on my second build. I really like the final result and find the process interesting and challenging. Is it necessary or required? No. But once done should be bulletproof and last the life of the car. Plus I think it looks cool. So the Coupe gets the same treatment. Even though this is my third time, I’m far from an expert. There’s enough time between each that it takes a little practice to get back into the swing of it. I wouldn’t say using SS is hard, but it’s definitely a little tedious and takes the right material, tools and process.
The way I do it takes an especially long time (and some would say is totally redundant…) because I don’t trust myself to bend the SS tubing until I’ve made patterns that are confirmed to fit. It’s not forgiving. Once you make a bend, it’s pretty hard to go back. So I use the supplied steel brake lines to make patterns for the SS brake lines. Then I use a piece of 3/8-inch soft copper tubing from Home Depot to make patterns for the 3/8-inch SS supply and return fuel lines. Both materials allow multiple do-overs and fine tuning. When good, duplicate in SS and install. Works well and every piece went in OK. But it does take some time.
The other challenge with SS tubing is doing the usual double flares. I buy my SS tubing from InLine Tube, a well known on-line supplier of brake and fuel tubing, parts, etc. They’re local for me, so I’m able to pick it up at their place in straight pieces. Nice. No coils to straighten. The material is the proper annealed SS. But you still have to be very careful and have an exact process to make the flares. I used the Eastwood Professional flare tool, which is awesome. It makes flares in other materials like butter. But for SS, if everything isn’t just right the flare can crack. When it does, 99% of the time on the second step, and 99% of the time my own fault because I pulled too hard. You have to use a light touch on the second step and they come out perfect every time. I check them under low magnification just to be sure. I practiced a lot with scrap material and developed a pretty predicable process. Most of the time…
The brake lines are all the usual routings with SS fittings and double flares at each connection. For the fuel lines, I’m using 3/8-inch SS for both supply and return. Did the same after a lot of research on the 20th Anniversary Roadster Coyote build, and it works well. Rather than trying to flair the 3/8-inch tubing and come up with the right adapters for -6AN flex at each end, I use a very cool compression fitting. There are a couple brands. The one I use is a Ham-Let SS 316 Let-Lok Compression Fitting, Adapter, 3/8" Tube OD x 37 Degree Flare. Breeze has them and that’s where I normally get them. I’ve also found them on eBay and Amazon on occasion. I believe Forte also sells them. These are a one-time installation on the end of the tubing and are bullet proof. As I recall they’re rated for something over 1,000 PSI. So I think they’ll hold up to the fuel line pressure. Once installed, a standard -6AN fitting goes right on. Perfect.
Lots of discussion on the forum lately about regulators with the Coyote setup, and specifically using a fixed regulator by the tank versus the usual Aeromotive adjustable regulator in the engine compartment. Definitely some simplicity and cost advantage for the fixed regulator approach. The regulator is cheaper and only a single line is required to the engine compartment. For this build I chose to (again) duplicate what I did with #8674 with the adjustable regulator in the engine compartment and two lines. Note also for the Coupe it’s necessary to run the fuel and brake lines through the transmission tunnel. With the frame design, it’s not possible to run them outside the tunnel like with the Roadster. If you did, the lines would be the lowest point on the bottom where they had to get by chassis rails. Not acceptable obviously. I installed all three lines in the top DS corner of the tunnel, staying as far away from moving parts (e.g. the driveshaft) as physically possible.
With that said, here are a bunch of pictures. First brake lines, then fuel. For the pedal box, I chose to replace the kit supplied right angle fittings out of the Wilwood MC’s with Wilwood 220-0628 straight fittings. This made the tubing bends a little more to my liking, plus eliminates the issue (for me anyway…) of getting the position of the angled fittings correct without stripping something out. Ask me how I know about that. First picture is the front and rear brake line connections at the pedal box. The front circuit comes out the top corner of the footbox. The rear circuit follows the path shown in the manual over to the corner of the footbox, down a diagonal rail, and then through the transmission tunnel to the back.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1519740987
For the front, along the top rail of the chassis and turned down to the DS wheel. Not visible in the picture, but where it exits the footbox, I put a 1-inch long double layer of dual wall shrink sleeving. Did the same thing for the rear line where it exits the footbox. Will act like a grommet next to the aluminum panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1519741022
Just like Mike Everson did on his build (thanks Mike!) I found the routing for the front lines at the wheels worked best on the back of the frame rails in that area. So cut semi-circles in the aluminum panels and mounted them as shown here. The DS has the tee connection to go to the PS. I ran the crossover on the top of the frame rail across.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1519741011
Then back up on the other side. For these visible mounting clamps, I used the same ALL18320 Allstar Performance clamps with 10-32 screws and tapped holes as on previous builds. I just think they look better. All the rest (through the tunnel, in the back, etc.) are normal cushioned clamps.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1519740997
This is the outside of the PS showing the attachment and flex line to the brake caliper. Same on both sides. For all the attachments to the frame like this plus the cushioned clamps I used 3/16-inch steel Q-rivets. From McMaster-Carr (where else?) but are available elsewhere. They’re many time stronger than the usual aluminum pop rivet and set really nice. They are a little tough to pull by hand though. I used my pneumatic riveter wherever possible.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1519740976
For the rear circuit, as already mentioned, leaves the MC and goes down the diagonal tube where it exits the footbox. This isn’t the best picture, but this is the exact routing FF shows in the manual and their pictures are better than this. Note also this is the same exit point I'm planning for the rear harness and hydraulic line to the clutch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1519741039
From there, it goes down the top corner of the tunnel, and up to a tee between the rear wheels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1519741049
Fuel and Brake Lines Plus (continued)
Then to the flex attachment points.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1519741031
That’s it for brakes. For the fuel lines, I’m planning to put the adjustable regulator on the angled firewall area on the DS. So routed the lines accordingly. Here’s where they come into the engine compartment. There will be SS flex with -6AN fittings to the regulator from here. Same as at the fuel tank.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1519741060
Then through the tunnel to the back. I had to take a jog around the T-56 shifter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1519741069
Then out the back and turned to the Trick Flow TFS-23006 fuel filter I’m using. Same (again…) as #8674.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1519741078
Now that I have the lines installed, I can make up the flex lines to the Pro-M Racing fuel pump hangar. Already mentioned that in a previous post. Has true 3/8-inch in and out and pre-installed -AN6 connections. Perfect. The rear harness is just laying there right now. Next up is get the locations finalized and I’ll install with some padded clamps. Here’s an overall view. Feels good to get this part done.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1519741109
So on to a few other points. Several have asked about the tools I use for brake and fuel lines. Based on multiple recommendations on this forum, picked up the Eastwood Professional Flaring tool during my first build. Not cheap, but they’re regularly on sale. I highly recommend. The quality of the flares are as good as any factory ones. Often better actually. Just need to practice on SS to get the right pressure mainly for the second step.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1519740803
For bending tools, I started out with an Eastwood triple head bender on my first build. I didn’t feel like it worked all that well, especially for SS. The handles are pretty short, so for 3/8 SS was literally almost more than I could do to bend. I’ve since settled on these three dedicated size benders. All work very well. Ridgid provides decent benders that are better IMO than the average run-of-the-mill benders. Not Swagelok quality, but a fraction of the cost. I use a Ridgid 36097 3/8-inch, Ridgid 36117 3/16-inch, and a smaller 3/16-inch bender from InLine Tube. It does an even tighter radius when that's needed. All highly recommended. Here are pics of each and the bends they make in SS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1519740813
Fuel and Brake Lines Plus (continued)
Next up I’ll be working on the rear wiring harness and get it installed. I mentioned before that I added wires for the T-56 reverse solenoid and back-up lights. I ordered the required connectors to be added to the harness. Just a quick word on the T-56 reverse solenoid. This is something I haven’t seen before on the T-5 or TKO’s. Tremec added a solenoid to the T-56 that needs to be energized to open the gate and allow reverse to be selected. It’s a nice feature. I’m sure I’m not the only one who’s bumped up against reverse while driving and gotten that awful grinding sound. OK, maybe I am the only one… I tested the T-56 solenoid the other day with my Power Probe and it works exactly as advertised. With power to the solenoid, makes a healthy click and the shifter slides easily over into the reverse gate. Without, it’s a hard springy stop. I’ve done some research and found several approaches for this. Some live with it and just jam it in. It is possible. Some disable the function by cutting down the spring. Tremec strongly recommends against both of these approaches. Says it adds undo wear and possibility for breakage. Some add a switch to the brake pedal and energize when the brake is pushed down. That’s OK I guess but could open reverse during regular driving while braking and shifting. Others add a switch to push for reverse. It would be cool to wire something like that into a T-handle reverse lockout on the shifter like back in the day. But don’t see any easy way to do that without some fabrication. The other way, which is what I suspect is the case for Vipers and older Vettes where this transmission was used, is to have an electronic module that senses speed and turns the solenoid on and off. There are several available and that’s what I’m planning. Ties into the speed sensor. So when stopped the solenoid is energized, then released when the car is in motion. I like it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1519740924
Another detail I’ve decided about is the brake/clutch reservoirs. I’ve used CNC reservoirs on all builds to date and like them a lot. Durable, functional, and look good. I want to put the reservoirs in front of the DS footbox, instead of on the firewall like some have done on Coupe builds. I want to save that space, plus in front of the footbox makes the supply hoses short and direct. I'm going to route them through the unused clutch cable hole. Unfortunately, the CNC piece is just too tight there. So I’ve decided to use the Tilton 72-576 triple reservoir and just received it the other day. It’s plastic, so not as shiny as the CNC piece. But like other Tilton products, seems very high quality. I use and really like the CNC pressure cap method for brake bleeding. Found that Tilton offered just the cap, so picked up one of those. I’ll drill a hole in the top and add a Schrader valve and duplicate with the Tilton setup. The tape labels are just temporary. :o I need all the help I can get so do that kind of thing often.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1519740886
Took my first batch of parts for powder coat last week. Should have those back pretty soon. Mainly just all the steel parts (hinges, brackets, etc.) plus the radiator tunnel and shroud. All those parts I’m doing in gloss black like the rest of the chassis. I’m thinking right now all the aluminum panels will be the silver/glimmer color like on #8674. Really like the color. Last week I ordered the Boig Motorsports upper and lower cool tubes for the Gen 3 Coupe / Coyote. They arrived a few days later and look really good. Bob is a pleasure to work with. It will be some months before I actually install them. But a nice upgrade over the standard parts plus addresses that difficult and very narrow transition at the lower radiator hose connection. My A/C system just shipped from Factory Five. Will be my first time for that kind of thing so looking forward to digging into that.
Finally, this coming weekend is the Detroit Autorama. I’ve talked to my friends at Ford Performance and will check out the Gen 3 Coyote in person for the first time. They will have one crate version installed and another on a stand. They’re still saying “summer” for anticipated release. See if I can learn more in person.
A/C – Heat Installation Underway Plus
Relatively minor updates today. Yesterday I finished installation of the A/C – Heat unit in the PS footbox. Needed a couple extra arms to hold it in place while marking the attachment locations. I used a jackstand with a stack of towels for my assistant. First time I’ve used one of those on the inside of a build. The evaporator unit has four designed attachment points with inserts into the case. But for this installation, only one can be used. The FF instructions show using self-tapping screws into the top of the plastic case for two other attachments. My belt and suspenders mindset said change those to two 10-32 machine screws with a washer and locknut inside. Both nuts were accessible through the air outlets. One easy, the other a little harder. But done and solid. I put 10-32 nutserts into the chassis at the attachment points rather than the provided self-tappers. Again, just my thing. I had a suggestion to put the unit in straight versus angled as shown in the instructions. But after mocking it up, didn’t see how that was possible. To get it as high and far back as possible, plus making all the connections accessible, looks to me like it can only go this way. But it’s OK IMO.
The instructions (available on Factory Five’s website) first steps show cutting an access area into the PS footbox. Not a big deal, but I wasn’t looking forward to that necessarily or making a cover. I was pleasantly surprised to find my sheetmetal already had the access cut and the cover made held in place with the usual shipping screws. Just hadn’t noticed that before. Maybe a running change. I didn't order the A/C - Heat option at the same time as my kit. I guess they're now putting the access on all the kits. Nice.
Couple pics of the installed unit. From the cockpit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1520475431
Looking down into the footbox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1520475416
I’m not going to do anything else with this for now. Need a lot more other assembly to be finished and engine installed before running hoses, wiring, etc. I mentioned before this is a pretty simple setup with two outlets on the inside unit. One going to a pair of dash outlets. The other to the two defroster outlets. I am planning to change that up a little. Instead of pointing the two outside outlets down, I’m going to put them on the face of the dash. Then I’m going to add two additional outlets in the center of the dash. I’ll use Y-connections and add them to the defroster hose. That will add more air directly to the occupants versus having half going against the windshield. If more defroster air is needed, just close one or both of the center dash outlets. Not real high tech, but I think a little more user friendly.
Couple other things I worked on. Since I have a hydraulic clutch, won’t use the clutch cable exit in the DS footbox. So I’m going to use that for the reservoir hoses, which works out well since I’m planning to put the reservoirs in front of the DS footbox. The outlets on the Tilton triple reservoir I’m using are 5/16-inch barb, and the inlets on the Wilwood MC’s are 1/4-inch barb. Could use a reducer, but that’s just more connections. So today I tried fitting the supplied Wilwood 1/4-inch reservoir hose onto the Tilton piece. Took some heat, liquid soap, and healthy persuasion times three. But they’re on and I think it’s going to work fine. I’ll add some clamps and they’ll be good to go. Then made a small aluminum plate with holes for the three hoses with grommets and riveted onto the DS footbox front piece. I’ll have to trim the grommets a little to co-exist in this small area, but this should work. Don’t have the grommets yet. Also haven't mounted the triple reservoir yet. I want to set the tip-up nose in place and confirm the available height. I suspect I have plenty, but don't want to mess it up. While I had the footbox front piece out, also added some clearance for the front brake line that exits below the top frame tube. Then spent 15 minutes trying to figure out how that piece goes back in. It's a bit of a puzzle. :p
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1520476455
Finished up the rear harness. I installed the pigtails shown previously for the backup lights and reverse lockout solenoid, tested, and then wrapped everything up. Then installed into the chassis. With the fuel and brake lines on the DS of the transmission tunnel, installed it on the PS. Crossed over to the dash area on a diagonal frame piece. Added a hole to the DS sheet metal for it to come through. The same location as the rear brake line leaving the footbox. I’m planning the hydraulic line for the clutch will go through this same spot. I'll add some edge protector on the sheet metal after powder coat.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1520476720
I’ve finished laying out the trunk storage box and was planning to start working on that today. I was planning to order some aluminum sheet from Aircraft Spruce like I’ve done before. But I was told about a metal supplier, Alro, that has a retail store about 25 minutes away. By all accounts it’s a great source. So I'm going to check it out. But we managed to get another bunch of snow today, so I didn’t go anywhere. Haven’t even cleaned the driveway off yet. Being retired has its privileges. Hopefully will make it out tomorrow and get started on that. Waiting for the call that my first batch of powder coat parts is done. Then will have some more parts to install.
Coupon Offer *** CLOSED ***
*** Update: The coupon code has been claimed with a couple backups. Thanks for your interest and following along.
Throwing this out there for those of you following this build. Hopefully it isn't breaking any forum rules. I have an extra 10% off Summit Racing coupon that I picked up during the Detroit Autorama this past Saturday. I have one that I'm going to use to knock some things off my shopping list. But I have a second that I'm 99% sure I won't be able to use because I believe they're one per customer. At least during the time that it's good until 4/8/2018. Plus I won't be buying anything again before then anyway.
I will send to the first PM I receive asking for it. If you include your email address I'll send a picture with the codes, etc. I would really like it to go to someone who has something major to buy. Not save a couple bucks on small stuff. It says engines and transmission excluded, and can't be combined with other offers. But everything else is apparently fair game.
