Sure Joe, PM sentQuote:
Originally Posted by Joe Campbell
Sure Joe, PM sentQuote:
Originally Posted by Joe Campbell
I removed the body Edwardb style. I welded that rack which I clamped to the lift out of $42 worth of scrap steel from our local distributor
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1523925034
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1523924995
The next time this engine goes in it is staying. I hope...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1523925118
Looking G-G-Good Dr. Mark!
Very, very cool - nice work Doc! Looks like Tony Stark/Ironman’s garage...
Chris
Thanks guys :)
Looking good! You are making great progress!
Thanks Yama-Bro,
Its amazing how addicting and fun this is.
An addiction, that once you drive her - you can never truly shake!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Chris
Hi Mark,
I've spent a lot of this morning reading this thread during breaks before work, lunchtime, and in meetings. I really enjoy your build and sense of humour ("Ask me how I know.")
I have been on the forum for over a year with the full intention of building a FFR 818. I even have the donor sitting in my driveway for the past year. My original plan was to build the 818 first and then after having that experience build the Cobra. The Cobra has been a dream of mine for over 40 years. I even saw an original 289 Cobra sell for $43k CDN at an auction in 1982, but I was too poor to even consider it. After reading all the difficulties the 818 builders are having with bodywork and windows in the coupe, I'm thinking that the Cobra might be easier and more satisfying -- although more costly. To investigate the build issues on the Cobra, I started to look at some build threads. This is where I found your thread among others. The information is great in all the build threads and i am making notes on all of the learnings (i.e. mistakes) done by others before me. With any luck, I can minimize the costly mistakes in my build.
BTW, I have total garage envy! You have a great space for your build. Keep the posts and photos coming!
Cheers!
Russ
Thanks for the input Russ, I'm glad your getting something out of my build thread. I'm really having fun building this thing. Those 818s look like a fun build as well. Reading as many threads as you can is a great idea to help you avoid costly mistakes. The downside is you will find all kinds of cool mods which will run up the cost! :p
I re-routed my rear brake flex lines, for the third time, to clear the UCA, CV axle and coil over with more room. I think this is more consistent with the manual and still allows me access to the lines when the car is completed. I appreciate Edwardb's note of concern with my 2nd routing placement.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1525742374
Looks great, Mark. Where did you source the knob for your engine hoist leveler? The crappy plastic one didn't last through one installation.
Dave
Thanks Dave, yeah that leveler works well but the handle was a piece of garbage. Here's what I replaced it with
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I double checked on the J.W. Winco website to make sure the stud size was correct. M10 -1.0 or 1.5 I think. Anyway, it works great!
Awesome! I just ordered one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Dave
I've been at this ABS mod for a long time and have talked to alot of folks. I'm not sure I can make this work but here is what I've come up with. This is a 4 channel ABS module from a 2013 Mustang GT. I wanted to use a 2015 model to match the IRS but believe it or not the wrecking companies kept sending them to me without the wiring harnesses attached! I found the wiring manual on Ebay.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1526525955
I welded the mounting bracket on PS front.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1526525989
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1526526057
Here it is with the brake lines installed
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1526526095
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1526526131
Mark,
You Must Really Plan To Go Fast Since You're Installing ABS To Stop That Sucker!
This feature will really be unique for sure on a Factory Five.
Keep Wrenching Doc, Keep Wrenching!
Steve
This is great. Love to see guys taking it to the next level. Good luck.
-Steve
Thanks guys
I had to remove the rear wilwood brakes to install the ABS speed sensors. These are 2015 Mustang sensors that I plan to route to my 2013 ABS module.
Is this going to work?!
I tapped the access hole to 1/4" -20 and bolted them in with blue loctite. Everything was going well until I was re-installing the DS wildwood and torquing to 77 ft/lb and managed to shear BOTH bolts. WTF, did I read the directions wrong?!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1527304516
After kicking some things around and taking the Lord's name in vain I managed to back those bolts out and get the wilwoods back on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1527302911
That episode took almost three hours. The PS, maybe 15 minutes...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1527302937
The large bolts (in your picture) holding the caliper mounting bracket to the knuckle are 70 ft/lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
The smaller bolts (the ones you broke) holding the e-brake mounting bracket to the caliper mounting bracket are listed in the instructions as 30 ft/lbs. That would do it. :(
Holy crap sorry to hear that, but at least you got them out. I've got to take all my calipers off the rears to swap my rotors to the other side since I put them on backwards. I'm hoping a hot soldering iron to the bolt heads will be enough to break down the red loc-tite.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
In the wake of the HB rally my head has been full of all kinds of cool mods that I want to do to my MK4. I bought a bandsaw which turned out to be a great purchase. Today I started fabrication on a new firewall. I cut it out of 1/8" aluminum panel. The saw cut through it like butter, really impressive.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1527996376
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1527996406
I also got these Gates hose clamps idea after seeing them on RR20AC's car at HB. I put them on my MC reservoir hoses.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1527996566
Finally, after browsing through Papa's build thread I realized I hadn't used Antiseize on my header bolts or gasket sealer so I took those off and redid it. And torqued them to 20 ft-lb.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1527996487
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1527996506
Turns out my headers didn't come with a fancy locking bolt tab kit thing so I'll have to get them from Summit. It would get awful loud if those header bolts back out. Probably loud enough to drown out the ridiculously overpowered stereo I'm planning.
After much deliberation and input from a gearhead friend I have decided to postpone my ABS system for now. So, I took the module out and replumbed the whole thing with 3/16" tubing. I bench bleed the MC's and pressure bleed the brakes and it seems to be working fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1529804371
So what was the deciding factor? I have ABS and really like how it works. If you install it but don't like it, it's simple to unplug and the brake system works like the ABS module isn't there.
The number one issue came down to time and my lack of it. I would have left the module in place but the bore on the supplied MC wasn't enough to actuate the brakes given I had to replace the 3/16" lines with 5/16" line which is what the module accepts. It was a volume issue and probably an MC with 67% more bore would have done it but it is not exact science and may have take several trial and errors with different MCs. I am not opposed to that but I figured the time I need to make this work vs how badly I want to move on with the build made it not worth it at this point. The wiring wasn't going to be so bad given that I had the pigtail and wiring manual and I think I can make it work as a stand alone unit, however, figuring out how to read fault codes was going to be tricky and another time consuming issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bking
In preparation to start on my dash and another funky trunk mod idea I got a the Hunting Beach show I put the body back on the chassis. After fussing with it for a while it seems to fit pretty well. The one issue I notice is the body behind the PS seat is higher than behind the DS seat. Here is a photo, this is with the undercarriage bolts which came with the kit it place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1530405850
I put 5/8" worth of shim between the body and chassis on the PS ...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1530405879
It looks better now. That just seems like a lot of shim to have down there, the DS body is flush against the chassis.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1530405907
Not sure what else to do. Any thoughts?
Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
I don't think you want to shim the body away from the frame along the bottom. Have you trimmed any of the aluminum along the trunk side and rear cockpit wall? Mine is sitting flush with the frame along the bottom without any bulb or other weather seals in place yet. I expect that I'll need to do some minor trimming to get the body to sit right once the seals are installed.
Dave
Thanks Dave, I haven't trimmed any of the trunk panels and they are abutting the body. Maybe trimming them will help. I did trim the cockpit panels and they don't touch the body anymore or seem to be "pushing" on it anywhere. How much of a gap did you go for between they panels and body?
I've not done any trimming yet on those panels, which is what I was getting at. I was trying to understand why your body is sitting lower than where I think it should be and was asking if maybe you trimmed them a bit too aggressively. From what I understand, the body is supported by and will rest snugly on the seals along the tops of the firewall, cockpit, and trunk panels as well as a portion of the square tubes along the front fenders closer to the firewall.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Dave
One more thing, Mark. My rear cockpit wall was the last panel to go into the cockpit and sits on top of and in front of all the other panels it's connected to. You can sort of see that in this picture:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1524443176
Here are my trunk panels. It is kind of hard to see in the photos so I put in arrows where they are bumping up against the body. How much should I trim?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1530464432
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1530464411
Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
I think what you need to trim is just where the panels would prevent the body from resting evenly across the entire length. I also checked those belt opening and my driver's side is just like yours compared with the passenger side. I don't think these cars are very symmetrical, and from what I've heard you can go crazy if you try to get them that way. :)
Dave
Do you have your rear bumper hardware installed? If not what you see is meaningless because the tail will droop. With the tail at the proper height you want to see about 3/8" gap...but that can change depending on how far in or out the lower valance is adjusted...which will be determined by the trunk lid. See where I'm going? Step 1 before step 2 before step 3 and so on. It all plays together with most changes or adjustments affecting another.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Jeff
Thanks Jeff,
I have the quick jack bolts it place which look like they are holding up the tail. And as I answer this and see your signature I realize that I have been meaning to read your bodywork thread. That will probably answer most of my questions.
Mark
Actually Mark it is quite outdated and I have changed quite a few of my methods so only think of it as a very basic primer. If you're holding the tail up with the QJ bolts go for ~ 3/8" between the aluminum and body as a starting point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Jeff
Will do, thanks Jeff!
At the Mott build school they recommended using a fat sharpie and holding it parallel to the body and run it along the inside. Anywhere it touches and marks the aluminum is where you may want to trim.
Thanks for the tip, I guess I forgot to write down that tidbit while I was at the school.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shark92651
I agree with that method. But just suggest using caution. Make sure the body is properly positioned, the right height, everything else is in the ballpark (e.g. doors, hood, trunk lid) before cutting metal. I've seen several builds where guys got aggressive and then ended up with gaps. As the old saying goes, easier to take the material off than put it back on. My personal experience with fitting three Roadster bodies is the rear valance required some trimming in some cases, and in one case a little on the firewall. But nothing else. The trunk sides can be repositioned in some cases rather than trimming. Take your time and don't do anything in isolation. Almost everything affects something else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Good advice, thanks Paul