I went Fall of last year and Spring of this year...amazing show! Over 2500 vehicles. I spent 8 hours walking around and probably only saw half the show (and only one FFR 33').Quote:
Originally Posted by TDSapp
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I went Fall of last year and Spring of this year...amazing show! Over 2500 vehicles. I spent 8 hours walking around and probably only saw half the show (and only one FFR 33').Quote:
Originally Posted by TDSapp
Saw some beautiful cars yesterday at the GG's Show! Also great to see some FFR 33's there as well. I was able to talk to two builders...Jim out of San Antonio and Wayne from Flower Mound, thanks for sharing your time.
Jim's 33'
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Waynes 33':
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Didn't know there was a Jim with a 33 in San Antonio! Wish I'd gone now..Quote:
Originally Posted by JOP33
I also went and besides the two you have pictures of above I saw one more. It was a black one from out of state and was fenderless with a hard top, hood (open) and side panels (on). I have a bunch of pictures but need to get them off my camera and edit them before I can post them.
It was a great show and I even found a steering wheel and adapter for my hot rod in one of the indoor vendor areas.
Tim
I'd be surprised if that was the only one I missed! Loads of cars to sort through...IMHO maybe too many for one show. I also visited our new local auto parts retailer (not only this weekend, but last weekend too) and although I did walk away with a couple good deals, they have an awful lot to learn about retail sales and customer service. Last weekend I was there for 3 hours for an AC hose!Quote:
Originally Posted by TDSapp
Anyway, I finally received the TV Cable for the Trans, so I hope to get back on that and try to get the Engine in two weeks! I have also been working on the grill/condenser/radiator setup. I'll try to post pics soon.
Here are the pics grill/condenser/rad, still need to install spacers for condenser tube clearance and drill holes for mounting...
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My brother in law and sister in law came in this weekend (mainly for the Dallas game, good game bad ending), but also he brought his crimp line tool. So I was finally able to crimp some of the lines for the AC. It's amazing what you can do with the proper tool...
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Plan on putting the engine and transmission in this weekend. I'd love to hear some advise from other builders on things to look, listen, etc. for.
Here's a tip on installing your engine & trans: It is much easier to install the engine / trans through the front without the grill in the way. Use a cherry picker with an articulating lifting adapter so you can adjust the angle of the engine during the installation process. Take a look at the album gallery for my build titled 33 Hot Rod Roll Cage and there are photos showing the process. I can install and remove mine solo (and have several times now).
Thanks NAZ...and awesome build by the way!Quote:
Originally Posted by NAZ
Engine & Trans going in tomorrow morning:eek:...wish me luck!
Luck is a result of preparation and opportunity. You seem to have both in your favor.
Enjoy
Good luck this weekend. I feel confident that it will all go well, as you have done things pretty darned well so far, so no reason not to expect the same!
I look forward to seeing the pics of the successful install! Great progress, and an enjoyable thread to follow along with.
Sorry about the "Boys," but they will get it back together. I am not sure this season will be one to remember however.
Give it heck this weekend!!
Regards,
Steve
Thanks for the kind comments! Happy to report all went well! Will post pics later this evening.Quote:
Originally Posted by WIS89
As fer the boys, we've weathered worst losses!
So with the help of a few guys from work we were able to get the heart of Star Mobile 1 into the beast. I must say it actually went a little easier than expected. I was a little concerned in the beginning that the Unisteer Unit was going to hit but it just barely clears the engine mounting bracket. It did make it very hard to get a wrench or a socket on the nut that holds the isolator bracket to the engine mounts. I thought that I would have to go with a short oil filter too, so I took it off (for the most part crushed it getting it off) only to find out after the install that if would have fit fine:mad:.
Lift & 302...
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Prepping Tools...
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Isolator Brackets & Engine Compartment...
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Final Prep on Engine...
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Engine installed...
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Here are some additional pics...
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Clearance of Unisteer & crushed oil filter...
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Firewall Clearance...
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IMHO getting the headers installed was much more challenging. I am not sure how to get 25ft/lbs of torque on bolts you can barely get a wrench on.
Drivers Side header...
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Passengers Side header...
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I also replaced the stock dipstick with something a little less yellow...
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All in all it was a good weekend and I was able to get done what I wanted to. I will probably get back on the radiator this week and I also need to paint the driveshaft, which does bring me to a question for ya'll. What establishes the proper height for the transmission bracket? Is it just the height that is established by the installation of the driveshaft to the diff and then the transmission? Meaning, whatever height it takes to get the driveshaft bolted to diff and trans. I could use some input on this.
Thanks
Here's some info. I bought a digital level for $40 at Home Depot. It works for comparing the engine angle to the pinion angle and measuring the driveshaft angle. I also used it to adjust camber and caster.
https://www.iedls.com/#Power_Train
FWIW, the LS3 in my car is set dead level and has about the same oil pan ground clearance as a Corvette. The pinion angle matches the engine and the driveshaft angle is only about 1.5 degrees in the vertical plane. The 9 inch Ford rear end has a pinion offset of 15/16 inch so it also has some angle in the horizontal plane. No angle is undesirable because the needle bearings in the u-joints would not rotate if the driveshaft had no angle at all.
Thanks for the input Dave.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveS53
I hope to spend a good bit of time this weekend on the build. I need get the kickdown cable installed, mount the radiator to the grill, install the grill, install the pre-load bracket on the trans mount, paint the drive shaft and install it (all hopefully this weekend). I want to try and get fluids in the engine in the next week or two before the weather changes too much.
Was able to put a bit of work in last night and this morning.
Temporarily connected the fuel lines. I know they are not pretty, but I am still try to decide how I will route and mount...
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I also worked on the grill assembly. I am going with a third party AC system, so I am installing a condenser...
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I did have to make a few mods for the lines...
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Installed the thermostat sensor...
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I also went with a third part fan shroud...
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Looks good!
Thanks 1932. I didn't get quite as much done as I wanted to today. I had to run to the auto parts store to get some 14 gauge wire to extend the ground for the thermo sensor on the rad, but all in all it was a productive day. BTW, anyone that is mocking up and if you are going to run the wire harness in the front across the lower cross bar as the manual suggest, go ahead and drill the hole for the hanger before paint. It was a bit of a challenge to drill a hole perpendicular to the plate and then install the rivet without jacking up the paint.
Splice for ground...
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Wires for passenger headlight hung on rad bracket for now...
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Still trying to decide on a good place for horns, just testing things out now, but wished I would have waited to pop that rivet on the wire hanger:mad:...
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Installed the grill to see how much room will be left behind for horns. I have interference somewhere though as when I lower the vehicle on the lift the grill wants to move forward:confused:...
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IMHO, this is the character of the 33'...
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That grill is awesome!
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More grill work tomorrow, paint driveshaft, maybe a little wiring and radiator work, plenty to do now that the engine is in!
Your build is looking good... It looks like you are not too far off from having to post a first start video and then a Go Carting Video.
I put my horns right where you have yours mocked up.
http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-con...015_162406.jpg
I too have some paint to touch up from having to drill that hole once everything was done. I am also going to find a wire hanger that has a bolt hole big enough to go over the bolt for the horns. That way I am not drilling another hole anywhere.
Tim, you read my mind with the bolt for the horns. I did just that last night after drilling out the rivet. I’ll post pics this evening. I’m hoping for a first start by December.Quote:
Originally Posted by TDSapp
I also might add for those of you that are installing a condenser and radiator shroud that you may want to make sure your front upper control arm bolts are installed with the heads toward the front of the vehicle. I had mine installed the opposite direction and had an interference issue with the radiator shroud. By flipping them I gained about 3/8” of clearance between the shroud when the control arms articulate.
Thanks
Installed the ground to block yesterday (something else I wished I had drilled prior to paint)...
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Here are some pics of the bolt directions that I needed to reverse for clearance for the shroud. The first pic shows one the right way (for my application at least) and one the wrong way. The second pic shows both in the position that allowed me the most clearance...
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After scoping out the spacing (and removing the radiator), I decided to go ahead and mount the horns on the same bolt as the wire harness (much like Tim detailed in the above post)...
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Will try to get the radiator back on and I then am digging into the wire harness schematics, Holley EFI instructions & Autometer instructions on which temp sensor I use (and how it gets wired or connected) :confused: :confused:.
Clean paint from under ground.(if you have good). The wiring is a problem i have ford coyote wire and FFR wire and vintage air and i am doing some my way, so after trying to make it all work i cut the wiring harness apart to take out and shorten and reroute wires. Hope it goes good for you.
Tom
Did clear paint away before attaching ground (again something I wished I had taped off before paint). Making sense of merging all of the components during the wiring process is a little overwhelming right now. I’m just trying to read over everything I have and take it slow. The mechanical connections haven’t been an issue so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1932
Thanks Tom
I haven't made too much progress this week as I really haven't worked much out in the shop. I did get the horns wired, although I must say that I wasn't real impressed with how the manual wants them wired. Trying to feed the (2) 14ga wires they want you to crimp into one female spade connector was a little too hopeful on their part. I did manage to make the connections and then loomed up what I could...
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I also installed the temp sensor for the Autometer gauges...
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Was going to install the heater hoses too, but I am going to have to pick up a threaded heater hose adapter.
I know it is difficult to tell in the pic, but I installed the grill back in and switching the direction of the bolts in the UCA's gave me plenty of clearance...
Before...
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After...
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Ok, my apologies ahead of time for the next few stupid questions I have:
It's my understanding that it doesn't matter which of the (2) heater hose tubes in the heater core go where. Assuming that is true, one of those hoses gets the heater valve installed in it. Which direction should the flow arrow be going on the valve...toward the engine or away from it? Also, once we've established the direction of the flow on the valve, where should that specific hose (with the valve) terminate at the engine? Does it go to the upper (1) or the lower (2)?
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Thanks
I think I understand the question correctly, but anyone here feel free to correct me. You want to take the hot water off the intake manifold (#1), flow through the heater core, and then out into the water pump (#2). Your heater control valve should be between the intake manifold, flow arrow pointing away from the engine, and the heater core so that when it is off, no hot water gets into your A/C unit to counteract your A/C.
Ok, that is consistent with what I was thinking too, but wasn’t entirely sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthTedious
Thanks DT
In the instructions it says to connect the heater control valve "on one of the hoses". Does it matter what heater hose is connected to what barb on the A/C heater unit? Is there a flow path in the unit or does it not matter which way it comes in and out?
I do not think it makes any difference at heater core , but the valve has to be in the hose going to the core with flow arrow going to heater. The other thing is with the coyote you need a bypass valve so water flows in head.
Amazing what you'll find when you look through your massive pile of instructions...
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There is an arrow on the bottom of the valve, but it was too late and I was too tired to check which way it went. Mine had a sticker that said to water pump and to heater core. I would have known this already had I not installed it first below the evaporator behind the firewall. So I made all of my connections for the heater hoses and moved the valve into the engine compartment. The routings on the hose I am sure are temporary until I get everything layed out...
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The size of the flange on the water pump was actually 1-3/4", so the adapters I had for the radiator wouldn't work. I picked up some other hoses that had the larger adapters as well as adapter covers. There is not alot of room to run the bottom hose with the Unisteer...
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After getting the radiator hoses installed, I looked at my shop and it was a mess. I had tools everywhere and couldn't find a thing, so I spent the rest of the evening getting things back in order. Still trying to wrap my brain around the wiring harness and also need to install the overflow tank. Hopefully I'll get some time this week on the build.
So is there a need for size overflow reservoir that FFR supplies with the kit? I am having some difficulty finding a good place to install. The manual says the firewall (I'd rather not put it there, but I have a feeling that's where it will end up) or they specify a very vague location next to/on the radiator (I don't believe I have the room with the shroud, AC condenser, etc.). I'd like to see what others have done or hear your suggestions.
Thanks
I couldn't find any other place than the firewall, I installed it first right beside the radiator and the hood hinges looked OK until I tried running the hinge to the stowed position.
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Don - That was my concern as well, not to mention I thought there might be some interference with the UCA as it moved. They make an identical tank at a 10” length that would allow for a little more flexibility in mounting, but I’m not exactly sure how critical the size of the reservoir to the size of the radiator is. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Thanks
I have found that even the current tank size is inadequate, if I top it up only to the inner tube height and drive it the burping continues until the tank is empty.